Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 102
My VIN: 16995
Club(s): (DCF)
I've just removed the old Motorola alternator from my car and the D110 is of course a little different. I don't have any instructions but it looks like I might need to purchase/do something else in order to install this. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,005
My VIN: 03572
If you got the D110 from John, all you will need is to connect one small wire (and the large wire) and a shorter belt.
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 102
My VIN: 16995
Club(s): (DCF)
I figured it should be like that. I put the alternators side-by-side for comparison. There's a stud attach the ground to, but as you can see on there is no stud for power. I do apologize I'm pretty illiterate when it comes to electrics (a very bad thing when it comes to owning a car like this). I didn't get it directly from John by the way, it's a used item from another member.
20140322_145731.jpg
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,005
My VIN: 03572
Hard to see from the photo. Is the one you want to use on the left? All the alternators I've seen have a stud on the back side to connect the large red wire. I have John's D110 in my car.Originally Posted by PlutonimicX
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 102
My VIN: 16995
Club(s): (DCF)
The one I want to put on is on the right.
Location: Eglin AFB, FL
Posts: 1,603
My VIN: 3299
There is a screw stud sticking out of the back of your alternator. That is where your power/live wires go.
From there, there should be a brown wire with a yellow stripe from the car's wiring harness. You take that wire and attach it to the brown wire that has that insulated blue terminal end with the black plug on your soon-to-be-newly-installed alternator. Looks like that terminal is a female end; you'll need a male spade end for the brown/yellow stripe wire on the car's wiring harness to complete that connection.
That should be it. If you encounter a solid brown wire from the car's wiring harness, I am sure that wire is not used at all.
Last edited by DeLorean03; 03-22-2014 at 05:13 PM.
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Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:
Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.
Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 102
My VIN: 16995
Club(s): (DCF)
I see now! Thanks! Me not knowing better I assumed the screw stud was for ground because it has a black plastic grommet-type thing at the bottom of where the stud is and assumed that it meant ground. I have so much more to learn. I'll do that and report back on how it went.
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 102
My VIN: 16995
Club(s): (DCF)
Sorry I haven't gotten back to this thread in so long but I finally just got the car started this weekend after recovering from surgery. However, there seems to be no charge! I believe I connected the alternator correctly and the belt has good tension. It's got to be something simple. I've got it running now by constantly jumping it with my other car. Any insight will be appreciated!
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
If the alternator is connected correctly, the battery light lights with the engine off, and the belt is in place, it HAS to work or it is defective.
Does the light come on when you turn the key to "run" without starting the car?
If not, you need to test (and repair) the light circuit, if it still does not come on, remove the alternator and have it tested.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 102
My VIN: 16995
Club(s): (DCF)
Hey Dave, thanks for the response! No the light doesn't come on. Unfortunately I am a beginner and basically totally ignorant when it comes to electrical bits but would you mind giving me advice on where to start and perhaps a little step-by-step for testing this circuit? Thanks!!
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