Location: Fort Mill, SC
Posts: 235
My VIN: 16882.
Prior to buying my D the PO converted to R134 and charged the system. The AC worked well for about 4-5 months. Afterwards, nothing. Apparently a leak. I'm letting a local shop charge it back up this weekend. Any advice on common leak areas? I'm told it could be o-rings on the evaporator... How hard is it to work on?
Location: Parker, TX
Posts: 731
My VIN: #1283
Club(s): (SCDC) (DCUK)
Do you know if the PO replaced any components when he converted? If so, that would be a good place to sniff for leaks.Originally Posted by Hokie
Another good tell-tale is the presence of dirt: Escaping refrigerant contains a small amont of oil so wherever there is a leak, there is dirt.
Generally, any joint is suspect. However, the compressor has moving parts and sits on a vibrating, hot engine in etc. so it is often your culprit. If you have a sniffer, check the lip seal (behind the clutch), the oil plug, the valve plate (b/w compressor's cyl. block and head) and the connections in the back.
Last edited by Henrik; 04-02-2014 at 09:34 PM.
Location: Happy Valley, OR
Posts: 1,709
My VIN: 4456 - Owner since March 2011
Club(s): (PNDC)
You can also buy a kit at the auto parts store with a UV flashlight and glasses for around 10-15 bucks. The system has a dye in it that glows under UV.
Cheers
Steve
Cheers
Steven Maguire
#4456
IT'S A TRAP!!!!!
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
Most common are the service valves. Put a little soapy water on them to see if they leak. My AC leaked running R134 at the hose from evaporator to accumulator.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
The service ports are a common source of leaks. Next are the gaskets on the back of the compressor and all of the seals on the high side. If you still have the original hoses they become very leaky too. Bottom line, every joint and hose can be a leak.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 637
My VIN: 2567 (Sold)
David
so how do you fix service port or service valve leak?
Thanks
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
You can just try to tighten the valves in the service ports. You need the long tool for AC work to tighten them.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Good Practice includes replacing the valve cores during any service on the system. Also throw away the plastic covers and use metal ones. Not only will metal covers (caps) prevent dust and dirt from getting into the valves, it will seal the port and prevent leaks. The plastic ones cannot do that.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
He is running R134. No metal caps for that.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
That applies only if the fittings have been changed to -134. I see all the time systems converted and they still use the -12 service ports. There are adapter fittings you can buy and screw on over the shrader valves but they are expensive and not often used. If he bought new hoses with the -134 fittings that is a different story. Those valves seem to seal well and only need the plastic covers to prevent dirt from getting in. When converting to -134, to do it properly, you are supposed to change all of the seals, the oil, the service ports, and a new label indicating the conversion and the correct fill over the -12 label.
David Teitelbaum
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