Ask Bill about carbing a DeLorean and other K-Jet/Carb tangets

[Farrar]

I get lost on all the things you start "upgrading". Last I heard your carb wasn't working right. Then you got a cold. What is it now?

I did the H4 headlight mod and ripped out the old K-Jet wiring, and then started doing some other electrical stuff -- recall my cooling fan circuit modification, which I tested but haven't had a chance to install yet because my car was needed for a photo-shoot. Then my fuel pump died and I couldn't find a compatible one and all electrical work stopped. Now the engine misses at idle. (And when I was working on the engine missing at idle, the blower motor switch and dome light fixture broke and the interior lights stay on all the time.)

I have stopped working on the car entirely until I have a weekend to devote to it. Anyway, it doesn't matter.

Farrar

[content22207]

Start with the basics. Everything else is just accessories.

Something has changed at your engine that is now causing it to miss badly at idle -- either ignition, fuel delivery, or the engine itself.

It is highly unlikely the engine itself suddenly went bad. It may be a crappy French PRV, but at least it's not some damn General Motors block.

Check ignition with a timing light. If it flashes consistently on each spark plug, they are fine.

Unless you have verified that they are vacuum tight, disconnect all vacuum operated accessories from the engine (plug their ports of course). You don't need spark advance to set the idle screws, so plug it anyway. Then set the idle screws as mentioned in your blog. I do this every time I set up a new carburetor. Only takes a minute or two. If you can't get a nice smooth idle, break out the carb or brake cleaner -- outside air is still getting in *SOMEWHERE*.

Only after you have your engine idling smoothly again, worry about the rest of the car. You can drive the car without A/C, but A/C is useless if you can't drive the car.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Ron]

With all that has been going on, a quick look at a the plugs might not be a bad idea..

[sean]

With all that has been going on, a quick look at a the plugs might not be a bad idea..

It's so easy to think those plug wires are seated when they are not.

[stevedmc]

He could also have a loose wire at the distributor cap. That happened to me a few months back and the car ran like crap.

[content22207]

Jeez -- I can't even post carburetor specific comments in *THIS* thread without a moderator deleting them.

If you want to discuss carburetors, eMail me direct: [email protected].

Bill Robertson
#5939

[content22207]

Cross posted from the "Efi?" thread (General Forum):

The fact that there are still c-----s being made for the after market is no good reason to install one on a car that didn't have one in the first place. For that matter you can still find buggy whips and vacuum tubes. I don't see a whole big market (or much of a future) for them either. If you want to improve the reliability, and drivability of the Delorean the answer is not to go backwards technologically but forwards and that means EFI. The only way it makes sense is to go down a path that was created by others. It will save time and money. Other than that the best option is to try to keep the original K-Jet system functional. Probably cheaper and faster in the long run, just not as adjustable if you want to customize it. I don't see too many people saying they like the old bias ply tires back as opposed to the newer radial tires either. Most of the time improvements are created and make the previous technology obsolete. C-----s (and bias ply tires) are among them. Arguing over it and saying it makes access easier is no good argument to convert to c--bs. If access is so important converting to EFI solves that too.
David Teitelbaum

Can't speak for anyone else, but in my case multiport injection wasn't an option -- my heads were never drilled for injectors:
BillHeadsNoInjectorBungs.jpg
(No, I was not about to drill holes in my zero mile crate heads, even if time had allowed).

I have already helped 11 other owners, and currently am in the process of helping 3 more, each of whom is perfectly capable of speaking for himself. Obviously there is a small demand for carburetion within this community (these people contacted me -- I didn't go to them).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[stevedmc]

After 420 miles of trouble free driving, I lost another fuel pump today.

This time it was a Spectra (made in china) fuel pump that I installed about a month ago. This marks two fuel pump failures, one being Airtex and the other being Spectra.

I'm guessing my issue isn't fuel pump related. Perhaps it is a sucky ground connection that is causing pump failures for me and Farrar.

I was able to easily replace my fuel pump (15 minute job) with my spare and I was happily on my way. 30 minutes down the road my high beams decided to quit working. Fortunately the low beams kept working fine. Things are sounding to be more of an electrical problem every moment.

I'm back home from today's journey and am to tired to go outside to do any work. Tomorrow I will check relays, fuses, and of course ground connections.


Edit: I don't know if this makes a difference or not but I am using the DMCH headlight switch box/kit thingie.

[sean]

After 420 miles of trouble free driving, I lost another fuel pump today.

This time it was a Specta (made in china) fuel pump that I installed about a month ago. This marks two fuel pump failures, one being Airtex and the other being Spectra.

I'm surprised you guys have not resorted to some jerry-rigged mechanical fuel pump yet. Seems it would be fitting rather than relying on these modern pumps.

.
Edit: I don't know if this makes a difference or not but I am using the DMCH headlight switch box/kit thingie.

not sure if all the versions have them but check the inline fuse if it is present. I think it's a 5 but think you'd be safe to toss a 10 in there. A local owner had a similar issue with a DMCH unit and bumping the fuse amperage helped.

[stevedmc]

not sure if all the versions have them but check the inline fuse if it is present. I think it's a 5 but think you'd be safe to toss a 10 in there. A local owner had a similar issue with a DMCH unit and bumping the fuse amperage helped.

Did his low beams still work with the popped fuse? I still have low beams.