Considering purchasing this '81. Your opinion?

[Addy]

Hi everyone,

I've been looking to purchase a D for the past few years, and it appears the time & money may finally be on my side. I've been keeping my eye on this particular one:

http://www.palaceautocenter.com/inve...n-DMC-12/16626

I visited the dealer a few weeks back, and took a look at the car. It's a consignment deal, in which the previous owner's widow is the one selling. It's claimed to be "all original", which I understand is not exactly a positive thing. It's not in museum condition (by a long shot), but it looks to be a great candidate for DD duty after some upgrades and maintenance are performed. They're asking $25k, but I'm considering offering $20-22k and explaining how much work it needs to be "modernized". I've been working on cars off and on for the majority of my life, so I'm not afraid to turn a wrench or two.

My question to you all is: Does this seem like a reasonable proposition? Is there anything from these photos, or from the VIN, that should make me turn and run?

Thanks,

Addy

[Michael]

No deal breakers that I can see. Window switch is wrong, fuel Guage is reading incorrectly,(I assume the switch is one but still the voltage is a bit low so may want to test the battery too).

The big thing is there are no pictures of what counts, namely frame shots and suspension components. Would he nice to have some maintainance history in the form of service invoices as well.

[Dangermouse]

Minor things in the ad: 5-speeds aren't "rare" so don't pay more for the "rarity". States that it had cruise control but I can't see any.

Car shows well, but as Michael notes, it's the parts under the shiny clothes that count (as in counting $$ )

[Addy]

Assuming that the undercarriage is rust-free, or at least minimal, am I off base in offering $20k? I've requested frame/suspension pics from their online form, so we'll see what they have to say.

If I go take a test drive, anything I should watch out for, outside of typical used car stuff (pulling to one side, blue smoke, etc.)?

[NightFlyer]

The three things that I noticed were 1) incorrect driver side window switch, 2) pegged fuel gauge (suggestion a short to ground somewhere in the circuit), and 3) inoperable passenger door lights.

Other than that, if the frame, engine, and accessory functionality all check out OK, I'd say that the ask is definitely reasonable.

[pezzonovante88]

Looks pretty good. Obviously there are a few details that need attending to, but overall seems nice. As others noted, just ensure the underneath looks reasonable with minimal or no rust and make sure it runs/drives well. I think $20k would be a reasonable number for that car based on the pics and info provided. Spend $5k on updates and it would be quite a nice example.

[NightFlyer]

If I go take a test drive, anything I should watch out for, outside of typical used car stuff (pulling to one side, blue smoke, etc.)?

Test drive it for at least a good 30-40 minutes (offer to put a few gallons in the tank if they find this objectionable). Run it through the full plethora of driving conditions - city stop and go to full on 70mph+ expressway driving. Get it up to full operating temp. Watch the temp gauge. Listen for the cooling fans to kick on and cycle between 180F-200F. Make sure it doesn't overheat. If the temp breaches 220F, pull over cut the engine and allow it cool before resuming driving. Watch the voltage gauge for consistent/expected behavior.

During your test drive, and after you've been running the car for a good amount of time and it's at full operating temp, pull over somewhere and shut the engine off for a good 15-20 minutes while you further inspect things on the car. If it starts back up without issue, great. If not, then there's a hot start problem with the fuel system that needs to be addressed. You can swap the plugs on the CPR/WUR and CSV to get the car started again - but if you do this, make sure to swap them back immediately after you get it running again.

If this is a running car, then you shouldn't see anything out of the ordinary coming from the exhaust.

Inspect the color/consistency of the coolant, engine oil, brake fluid, and clutch fluid. Pull the valve cover breather / oil fill tube and look for the presence of the plastic screen/grating. After your test drive, check for any leaks from underneath the car, paying particular attention to the transaxle seals, oil pan, cooling lines/radiator, and hydraulic lines. Check the steering rack, ball joints, and axles for tears in the rubber boots. Check the lower control arms for any cracks in the metal.

Test all the accessories for functionality.

Other than that, not much else I can suggest, other than your negotiating tactic of asserting that it will take money to 'modernize' the car is a specious one at best. You wouldn't go and look at buying a '63 split window with all factory/OEM systems in fully operable condition and tell the seller that it will take money to make it more like a 'modern' Z06, would you? DeLoreans are 33 year old cars. If all the factory system are operating as intended, then it's a perfect car from a value standpoint. If you want to make it 'modern,' that's your prerogative after purchasing it, but doing so won't add any value to it. A better tactic is doing a thorough enough inspection to identify problems and then researching what it would cost to make them right, and using that knowledge/information as leverage in negotiating price. The more knowledge you have, the better position you'll be in. But trying to say that it needs a metal coolant header bottle, or other such similarly situated assertions, are not only incorrect, but is the kind of thing that I personally find to be ignorant and somewhat insulting.

The few things that were identified from the photos as being faulty or wrong could possibly be easily repaired, requiring no to a minimal parts expenditure. Worst case on the pegged fuel gauge is that you'd have to replace the sender.

Best of luck

[Addy]

Nightflyer, thanks for the details.

Modernize may be the wrong word. When I inspected the vehicle in person, it still had the original tires on it, which leads me to believe EVERYTHING is original. By "modernize" I mean things like tires, belts, hoses cooling system upgrades, alternator. Basically everything in the must-do list from the FAQ section.

At this point, it may be for naught. The dealer says they have a pending deal on it right now, and he'll let me know if it falls through.

[Rich]

If you have really done your homework and you have a copy of James' book then you already know 90% of what you need to know.

So if this car does it for you then buy it.

Things noted from the photos and not yet mentioned in other responses, none of which are irreparable:

- OE coolant header tank (fine for originality, less fine for DD duty)
- Those exterior-hammered-on wheel weights (why do shops ever do that on painted/coated wheels?) - look into wheel refinishing options if those bug you enough to replace them with internal wheel weights
- Significant front fascia eyebrow condition on the right side (have seen worse, but this is way above-average as a glitch)
- Cargo net is missing or not visible

[Jonathan]

If I go take a test drive...

My only advice to you would be to not use the word "if". What I mean is, if this is a car you are considering, than you must test drive it. No if's. If this isn't a car you would buy for whatever reason anyway, then don't worry about whether you test drive it.

The knowledge you gain from getting behind the wheel of it, starting it and hearing it run and then driving it around for a few miles is much more valuable than deciphering photos. If you've done your homework, then some of the obvious things will be apparent to you. But driving it yourself is a hard thing to make a substitute for.

Just my personal opinion and what I would suggest to anyone out there looking after learning from my own experiences.

To summarize, drive or do not drive, there is no if