Take a picture of the whole engine, not so close as the last, maybe we can see what's going on.
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Location: Florida: Pinellas County
Posts: 2,111
My VIN: 5003 Never placed Concourse
Club(s): (DCF)
Take a picture of the whole engine, not so close as the last, maybe we can see what's going on.
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-----Dan B.
Yes. Go by the diagram. ...Welcome to the PO Hater Club lol
That could explain a lot-
Connecting the FD control pressure port to the CSV would normally cause control pressure to go to primary pressure when the engine was hot or running (~71psi; same as when checking pressures and shutting the valve...; Lean). While cranking cold, the CSV would be open, allowing the control pressure to drop drastically. Normally that would push it way rich, BUT, since the CPR is connected to a FD primary pressure port (meant for the CSV), the primary pressure would drop drastically as well (E.G. ~32psi on a cold engine @ 70F) -- Not enough to open the injectors (~55psi). If I have it right here, it could only get fuel from the CSV.
At this point, I'd at least re-check the easy to get to plug wires for spark and the easy injectors for fuel when pressing the air sensor plate down. If OK and it still don't start, I'd suspect the plugs were fowled by now?? (Check the easy ones using the coil wire, or spare plug wire, straight to the coil...).
Last edited by Ron; 09-25-2015 at 07:08 PM.
Hi Ron.
I already re-routed everything according to the diagram. No hose is compromised. Already tried spraying starter liquid over the plate, and still nothing.
I have spark, will re-check for spray on injectors over the weekend. At this point it seems that the oil got mixed with fuel, so I have a long way ahead.
Thank you all for your help.
Sounds like an oil change and plug cleaning/replacing to me then...
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
The PO hater club. Nice one. I have membership in that shitty club, lol.
Jerry, pictures are good. Not to be a pain, but could you take a few more where you kind of capture the entire engine bay as well as maybe sections, like in thirds from left to right? Trying to get the camera angle to "look down" on the engine helps get the bigger picture (pardon the pun!).
I think that hose I mentioned earlier with a split in it might be the wrap on part of a wiring harness?
If you can post a few more pictures, taking a couple of the throttle spool and idle microswitches and whatnot could also help. The fuse and relay area behind the passenger seat would be a good place to get confirmation it's properly set-up too.
Lots of guys here to help... it's Friday night and all. Must be a bunch of middle aged guys with kids at home or someone is watching the baseball game while they type
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 2,086
My VIN: 0934
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Are we missing some of the basics here?
LINK: Factory-Troubleshooting-Charts-Engine-Will-Not-Start
Suggesting you start back at Step 1 of the factory troubleshooting chart C1 and be sure the spark is really OK as specified here.
There is "spark" and there is "good spark". See chart for the simple "good spark" test method. Move on down the chart only after that's settled.
In any case the linked Ignition (C1) and Fuel (C2) charts are handy for systematic solutions to non-starts.
March '81, 5-speed, black interior
Thank you rich. I'll check it out and keep you all informed.
You have been very helpful johnatan and Ron. It really feels you're not alone !
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