Ok guys. Let's fill him in on what you're telling him. With 2 posts to his name, we have no idea if he knows what "the plug swap" means, or if he even knows what the RPM relay is. Let's fill in the blanks a bit.
First thirdman, get in your car. Turn the key to where the lights all come on (battery light specifically) but you are not trying to turn the engine over (you're not trying to start the car). This gives the fuel pump a moment to prime. Now, try turning the engine over (in other words, turn the key as far as possible as if you're trying to start the car), and pump the accelerator pedal while you do it (assuming you have an auto transmission). Sometimes, you can get the engine to catch by pumping the pedal, and the car may hold on long enough to start and idle properly. This would help get fuel through the fuel system - something that may not be the case if you just replaced the accumulator, and the fuel system hasn't had a chance to get fuel through the components.
If that doesn't work, do "the plug swap" as mentioned earlier. If you do not know what that means, this is what it means. There are two devices in your engine bay - the cold start valve and the control pressure regulator. Nevermind what they do, these are pictures of each:
The control pressure regulator: it'll be on the driver's side valve cover of the engine. It'll be directly north of the tube where you pour new oil in whenever you do an oil change (I'm assuming you've done oil changes, if not just look for the tube with a "little black hat" on the end. Right above that tube is the location of the control pressure regulator):
The cold start valve:
Now, you'll note there are "plugs" on each device - a blue one on the cold start valve (CSV) and a "grey" one on the control pressure regulator (CPR). Take the blue one off of the CSV, and take the grey one off the CPR. Hook the grey one onto the CSV, but DO NOT put the blue one on the CPR. Now, go try to start your car. It should start, and it'll be kind of "rough running." While this is happening, put the plugs back in their respective places (blue on CSV, grey on CPR). The car should hang on and idle smoothly after a couple seconds.
If that doesn't work, trying "jumping the RPM" relay. The RPM relay is located in the electrical compartment behind the passenger's seat. It looks like this:
Once you've located it, unplug it from the electrical connector it's hooked up to. It'll only go back on one way specifically, so don't worry about how to reconnect when the time comes. From there, you need to devise a "jumper" - a wire with 2 male spade connectors - one on each end of the wire. Spade connectors typically are rectangular in shape. Once you've made the jiumper, "jump the RPM relay" as seen in this picture:
This, in essence, forces the fuel pump to run even if you are not trying to start the car. Once you've jumped the RPM relay as seen in the picture above, try to start your car. If it starts in this case, your RPM relay may be working intermittently. Unhook your jumper, re-hook the RPM back up to the electrical plug, and try to start your car normally. If it starts, good deal. If not, might need to look into a new RPM relay.
I hope I didn't come off as rude to the people who have made suggestions - I just wanted to fill in the details.
Originally Posted by DeLorean03
Ok guys. Let's fill him in on what you're telling him. With 2 posts to his name, we have no idea if he knows what "the plug swap" means, or if he even knows what the RPM relay is. Let's fill in the blanks a bit.
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Dave M vin 03572
