Car won't start! What else should I do? :)

[JohnZ]

Hello there! While some mechanical work is being performed by me and my fellow assistant (brakes, sway bar), I would like to solve this riddle.

Car always started fine on cold temperatures (I know I have to replace the fuel accumulator for the hot starts) but lately while showing the car to a friend it suddendly died after 5 seconds of fine idling chant. Then any attempt to start the engine resulted in continuous cranking. Now what I've done until now:

1) surfing old "cold start issues" threads in here;

2) testing the RPM relay (found dead);

3) letting the pump prime by means of a paper clip. Try then, just crank.

4) checking all the electrical connections in the engine (particularly on the coil), try then, no start.

5) swapping the plugs between WUR and CSV, or unplugging CSV. Just cranks over and over.

What should I try then? I might think about checking the right grounds or test some wire with the tester.

Am I in the right path?

[DMCMW Dave]

Hello there! While some mechanical work is being performed by me and my fellow assistant (brakes, sway bar), I would like to solve this riddle.

Car always started fine on cold temperatures (I know I have to replace the fuel accumulator for the hot starts) but lately while showing the car to a friend it suddendly died after 5 seconds of fine idling chant. Then any attempt to start the engine resulted in continuous cranking. Now what I've done until now:

1) surfing old "cold start issues" threads in here;

2) testing the RPM relay (found dead);

3) letting the pump prime by means of a paper clip. Try then, just crank.

4) checking all the electrical connections in the engine (particularly on the coil), try then, no start.

5) swapping the plugs between WUR and CSV, or unplugging CSV. Just cranks over and over.

What should I try then? I might think about checking the right grounds or test some wire with the tester.

Am I in the right path?

You didn't mention the ballast resistor connections. I suspect you don't have spark but the next thing would be to pull a plug wire or coil wire and check. If you can make the pump run it's probably not a fuel issue. If the RPM relay does not engage, keep in mind that a dead ignition will not wake it up and the fuel pump will not come on either.

[NightFlyer]

Hello there! While some mechanical work is being performed by me and my fellow assistant (brakes, sway bar), I would like to solve this riddle.

Car always started fine on cold temperatures (I know I have to replace the fuel accumulator for the hot starts) but lately while showing the car to a friend it suddendly died after 5 seconds of fine idling chant. Then any attempt to start the engine resulted in continuous cranking. Now what I've done until now:

1) surfing old "cold start issues" threads in here;

2) testing the RPM relay (found dead);

3) letting the pump prime by means of a paper clip. Try then, just crank.

4) checking all the electrical connections in the engine (particularly on the coil), try then, no start.

5) swapping the plugs between WUR and CSV, or unplugging CSV. Just cranks over and over.

What should I try then? I might think about checking the right grounds or test some wire with the tester.

Am I in the right path?

You have to jumper the pump if your RPM relay is dead, as merely priming it isn't going to start it (at least not to where it doesn't immediately die for lack of fuel).

You need 1) fuel (jump the pump so it's continuously running), 2) air (check the idle speed motor), 3) compression (assume good), and 4) spark (check to make sure you're getting sufficient spark - make sure you didn't knock any wires off the resistor grid, or wire it up incorrectly, as that seems to be a common occurrence).

That's what I've got for you.

Best luck

[JohnZ]

Well what I meant is that I jumped the rpm relay so to get the pump work (generating the bzzzz), but it did not helped. What is curious is that if I put on the rpm relay I do not hear the buzz of the pump (faulty relay, as an electrician friend of mine confirmed... I'm waiting for brand new bitsyncmaster relay) but if I jump it... the pump goes on but the car doesn't start either! mmmmm (ballast resistor checked, it was my first concern to be honest!! )

I am oriented to some sort of electrical problem (as you gently put it too), but don't forget I'm a technical super-novice so I might be mistaken!

I'll try and do some tests with the tester then. Thanks to both of you! If you come up with something you're welcome!!

[Silverbullet]

one of the things I learned....

Remove the Air Cleaner, and push on the plate... if it is easy to push, you have no fuel pressure, it should be hard to push....

Craig

[NightFlyer]

Confirm that you're actually getting fuel to the fuel distributor.

[JohnZ]

Remove the Air Cleaner, and push on the plate... if it is easy to push, you have no fuel pressure, it should be hard to push....

You won't believe it but... I did that too! There must be some sort of supernatural guidance that made me do it! I did it by "sense" not really because I read it somewhere! Glad it was the right move! any way it was simple to push with the car off (so its mechanism is ok) but I couldn't try that while cranking. Should I do this try? (I was alone )

Moreover, I took advantage of it and checked the air filter and it's a bit dirty... I'm going to replace it.

Confirm that you're actually getting fuel to the fuel distributor.

You mean that I'm actually getting it (from what you read) or that I have to verify that?

[NightFlyer]

You mean that I'm actually getting it (from what you read) or that I have to verify that?

I'd verify it, as just because you can hear the pump running doesn't necessarily mean it's pumping. It's easy to do - pull the main line from the filter to the fuel distributor at the distributor, place it in a gas container, then jump the fuel pump on. Should fill about 1 gallon in a minute if everything from the pump to the FD is ok. You can then dump the gas back into the tank. At least then, you'll know for sure that you're getting fuel to the engine.

[Ron]

$.02
Seems pulling an injector and pressing the plate would be simpler, which would tell you that it is getting fuel all the way to the cylinder(s)...
I'd pull a plug wire to confirm spark is getting to the plug(s) first ...

[NightFlyer]

$.02
Seems pulling an injector and pressing the plate would be simpler, which would tell you that it is getting fuel all the way to the cylinder(s)...
I'd pull a plug wire to confirm spark is getting to the plug(s) first ...

That would definitely give a more complete picture of the functionality of the fuel system, though, IMHO, removing a line from the FD is much easier than pulling an injector, as those hold down clips can be a real bitch sometimes.

Confirming spark was already recommended several times above.