How To: Door lock solenoid REPLACEMENT with actuator

[ALEXAKOS]

It was actually as easy as 1.2.3.

You will need:

- Actuator
- a stainless steel thin bolt and screw to fit through actuator hole
- 1 inch piping wall mount
- a stainless steel bolt and screw to attach piping mounting onto door

First remove Solenoid:


Mount screw onto bolt so you can tighten easily and put onto the rear solenoid mounting hole on you door


Screw on and tighten rear part of piping wall mount


Screw on front piping mount and slide in the actuator upside down

And tighten

You will notice your actuator's hole is right across the initial solenoid's mounting hole.
Put your small bolt through that hole and tighten with the screw.


Just clip the actuator on


I tried it many times, it sits perfectly without it being stressed during operation.



I simply connected the wiring onto the solenoid's wiring and will then replace the door lock module with a simple actuator module from ebay.

[djdogbone]

How does this affect the "door lock" light on the dash?

[sdg3205]

How does this affect the "door lock" light on the dash?

It doesn't!

[robvanderveer]

i noticed you are just using the 2-wire actuator here.

my car has since long been equiped with 5-wire actuators. the 3 additional wires are used to sense 'open' and 'close' transitions, so that the key or inside switch can be used for central locking (since the original lock module is no longer functioning). This bypasses the lock state contacts in the doors, using the wires originally attached to the switch sensor. The 5 wires of the actuator are: GND, lock detect, unlock detect, lock positive and lock negative.

The lock doors lights are not connected to this system as far as i know.

[Farrar]

my car has since long been equiped with 5-wire actuators. the 3 additional wires are used to sense 'open' and 'close' transitions, so that the key or inside switch can be used for central locking (since the original lock module is no longer functioning). This bypasses the lock state contacts in the doors, using the wires originally attached to the switch sensor. The 5 wires of the actuator are: GND, lock detect, unlock detect, lock positive and lock negative.

I sure wish I knew that that meant but I haven't studied the door lock system in detail. I always assumed that we had an old-fashioned "switched polarity" system, where the "lock/unlock" button in one direction would send a positive pulse to the solenoid, and the button in the other direction would send a negative pulse. Is that the case? I have no electrical training and it is hard for me to discern the function just by looking at the diagram. Is the function of the system detailed in the Workshop Manual? Sorry to ask so many questions off topic.

[robvanderveer]

I sure wish I knew that that meant but I haven't studied the door lock system in detail. I always assumed that we had an old-fashioned "switched polarity" system, where the "lock/unlock" button in one direction would send a positive pulse to the solenoid, and the button in the other direction would send a negative pulse. Is that the case? I have no electrical training and it is hard for me to discern the function just by looking at the diagram. Is the function of the system detailed in the Workshop Manual? Sorry to ask so many questions off topic.

You are not wrong here. The solenoids were indeed 'switched polarity' as you call it (no idea what the proper name is though). Two wires, either RK/RS (+12V/Gnd) pulse for lock, or RK/RS reversed (GND/+12V) pulse for unlock. The lock module takes care of it.

However, for the lock module to see if the door is locked or unlocked, the module checks the state of the locks by checking the switch sensor. This sensor is connected through 3 wires: GND, NS (Brown/Slate) and NK (Brown/Pink). If GND connects to NS, the door is locked, if GND connects to NK the door is unlocked (or vice versa).



Now, with my $10 central locking module, the basic +/- logic is maintained (therefore it works for ALEXANDROS), but the actuators also senses which way the lock is being pulled (either by the exterior lock, or the interior switch). The fact that it senses a DIRECTION and not a STATE is why the original lock module is not compatible. Another reason for it being incompatible is the power required for the actuator to move compared to the solenoid (i'm not sure about this though). Anyway, my new $10 lock module has a remote which is of course very cool. Installation will be pretty easy since the PO already exchanged the solenoids for actuators. My new $10 lock module has 2 bonuses. 1) it can be configured to close the windows automatically on lock, and 2) it blinks the direction indicators when locked/unlocked.

I tried to explain this as comprehensible as possible. If it is still unclear, let me know.

[Farrar]

I tried to explain this as comprehensible as possible.

And you did brilliantly! Thanks, Rob!

[Flash66]

Cool!

[theMonch]

Thanks for info. Could you post where you got the actuators what model part numbers perhaps? Maybe the pipe mount info as well? Thanks.

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

[gamerguy51]

You are not wrong here. The solenoids were indeed 'switched polarity' as you call it (no idea what the proper name is though). Two wires, either RK/RS (+12V/Gnd) pulse for lock, or RK/RS reversed (GND/+12V) pulse for unlock. The lock module takes care of it.

However, for the lock module to see if the door is locked or unlocked, the module checks the state of the locks by checking the switch sensor. This sensor is connected through 3 wires: GND, NS (Brown/Slate) and NK (Brown/Pink). If GND connects to NS, the door is locked, if GND connects to NK the door is unlocked (or vice versa).



Now, with my $10 central locking module, the basic +/- logic is maintained (therefore it works for ALEXANDROS), but the actuators also senses which way the lock is being pulled (either by the exterior lock, or the interior switch). The fact that it senses a DIRECTION and not a STATE is why the original lock module is not compatible. Another reason for it being incompatible is the power required for the actuator to move compared to the solenoid (i'm not sure about this though). Anyway, my new $10 lock module has a remote which is of course very cool. Installation will be pretty easy since the PO already exchanged the solenoids for actuators. My new $10 lock module has 2 bonuses. 1) it can be configured to close the windows automatically on lock, and 2) it blinks the direction indicators when locked/unlocked.

I tried to explain this as comprehensible as possible. If it is still unclear, let me know.

You say "my $10 central locking module" like you are selling it...but I think you mean the wiring and parts needed for your mod. Do you have a link for instructions and parts required? Thanks!