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Thread: How To: Door lock solenoid REPLACEMENT with actuator

  1. #31
    Senior Member robvanderveer's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Netherlands

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    who needs a kit when you can DIY for less than $20. I will put up a pic plus schematics when it's done.
    Rob van der Veer

    My mods? DeClock, keyless entry, Alpine audio setup, and much more.

  2. #32
    Four fish Delorean ALEXAKOS's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2013

    Location:  38.09080 N 23.8005 E

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    Quote Originally Posted by robvanderveer View Post
    who needs a kit when you can DIY for less than $20. I will put up a pic plus schematics when it's done.
    Hell yeah baby!!! Tackle that euro style
    VIN 5992/Body 5697/Frame 6000/Grey/Manual/ALL LED/Square HALOs/SPAX/DMOCO SS shifter/Genuine MOMO steering/iPhone base/Porsche turbo 997 exhaust/K&N/ SS: f.fascia mounts, brake lines, clutch line+fuel line+tank cover+heat shields/Posi-quiet brake pads/Poly: steering rack inserts+f.sway bar bushing+radius bushing/wings-a-loft/Radius enforced tabs n bolts/turbo fans... Oh! + a BTTF on/off replica set etc (still adding)

  3. #33
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2013

    Location:  San Antonio

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    Still waiting on those schematics....I have my kit ready to install

  4. #34
    Senior Member robvanderveer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by djdogbone View Post
    Still waiting on those schematics....I have my kit ready to install
    Here ya go. No guarantees though. I'll be making a few pics of the installation in the back later on. But it'll take some time before I can do that.



    Notes:
    - "To windows" is not connected"
    - the blue "to thermistor" goes to one side of the thermistor, while
    - the brown "12v" goes to the other side and inline fuse is NOT pictured in this diagram.
    - the purple wire splits in 2 (with a diode on each wire), but I actually only use one of them and cut the other one off.
    - note that the brown "12v continuous" on the 9 pin connector is NOT protected by the thermistor. So only the remote system RED should be on there (with the fuse). The others go through the thermistor (which roughly speaking is a fuse).
    Last edited by robvanderveer; 07-03-2014 at 02:45 AM. Reason: wire details added

  5. #35
    Senior Member zimvsdib's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2011

    Location:  los ángeles

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    Quote Originally Posted by ALEXAKOS View Post
    It was actually as easy as 1.2.3.
    I simply connected the wiring onto the solenoid's wiring and will then replace the door lock module with a simple actuator module from ebay.

    Thanks for all the info on your setup.!
    I have a question that i hope can be answered on this thread. I'm very good with my engine but electronic systems are new stuff to me.
    I own a car with a keyless remote system with door poppers, i guess thats a wings-a-loft- setup.
    Original heavy solenoids still in there, and original door lock module.

    The doors started to click and lock and unlock themselves plus i suspect drain the battery. I unplugged the system and have been manual.
    From what i read on this thread it seems really inexpensive with your setup to get nice actuators to replace the solenoids. What about the module?

    Could i do this with my system and avoid the 250 dollar dmc digital door module?
    A list of what i need would be very helpful.

    should i toss out my setup and get this stuff or can i use some of what i have?

    1. Universal Car Remote Control Central Door Lock Locking Keyless Entry System
    2. DC 12V Auto Car 8 Wires Black Plastic Shell Central Door Lock Actuator (would this replace the door lock module? save 250$ from buying the dmc one?)

    As you can see from this photo brow. This is my door i already have the actuators to pop the door open.

    Thanks for the help.


    [IMG][/IMG]

  6. #36
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2013

    Location:  San Antonio

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    My VIN:    5628

    Sweet! I was going to give this a Try this weekend but strepthroat had other plans for me....

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