Does the Lambda relay always get hot?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Cool! In the meantime, I'll defer the wiring modification.

If you make them, perhaps you could paint the case silver or gray like the original and to differentiate it from the other relays (since it has a different pin setup). .... Just an idea.

And, if you make them, I'll take one right away.

Thanks for all the work you do to make our cars even better. As I said multiple times on the weekend to people inquiring about choosing one as a classic car....with the variety of part choices, it is an exciting time to own a Delorean.

I have been painting the relays black (head light and blower) and then label the headlight relays "HEADLIGHT". One advantage to doing the wiring change is you can swap "blower" relays with lambda so you have spares for troubleshooting.

[iflights]

[QUOTE=DMC-81;243612

Thanks for all the work you do to make our cars even better. As I said multiple times on the weekend to people inquiring about choosing one as a classic car....with the variety of part choices, it is an exciting time to own a Delorean.[/QUOTE]

I want to expand on these thoughts... My first work was proactively getting the electrical system to be reliable to prevent pesky gremlins later. I have such improved confidence in the electrical system now after I've installed your upgraded components. Electrical is one thing that can be checked off as being solid in my car.

Thanks for all you do.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm wrapping up some inventory builds. Boy I thought the RPM relay would start slowing down because most users have already bought one. But I'm still selling 5 or 6 a month. Also ran low on hot start and fan fail units.

Anyway I laid out a new circuit board for the lambda relay. This will be a 30 amp rated relay with the output drive to both output pins. I may also sell this unit without the center pin installed as my standard relay (blower and other relays that use the same power and load pins). I still don't recommend using it for the starter relay even though it does have a TVS suppressor diode. There is just nothing to gain with the starter relay since it only runs when cranking the starter.

So my plan is to paint the lambda relay yellow since I think most of our cars do have a yellow relay socket for the lambda relay. I will paint the 4 pin standard relays black.

Still need to order the boards and build them up so it will be about one to two months to be ready to sell.

[iflights]

Still need to order the boards and build them up so it will be about one to two months to be ready to sell.

I'm ready to buy the instant you are! And let me be the first one to say Thank You.

[DMC-81]

Anyway I laid out a new circuit board for the lambda relay. This will be a 30 amp rated relay with the output drive to both output pins. I may also sell this unit without the center pin installed as my standard relay (blower and other relays that use the same power and load pins). I still don't recommend using it for the starter relay even though it does have a TVS suppressor diode. There is just nothing to gain with the starter relay since it only runs when cranking the starter.

So my plan is to paint the lambda relay yellow since I think most of our cars do have a yellow relay socket for the lambda relay. I will paint the 4 pin standard relays black.

Still need to order the boards and build them up so it will be about one to two months to be ready to sell.

Sweet! Yellow is great for color. As mentioned above, I'm ready to buy as soon as they are done.

[DMC-Ron]

Same!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well I got the 100 circuit boards and built up 10 but then I was testing one with a 30 amp load and found my new boards must have been made with 1 oz. copper and I ordered 2 oz. copper. So at 30 amps the relay does get hot because of the higher voltage drop with that high load. I'm contacting my PCB manufacture to see if I can get new boards made with my needed 2 oz. copper.

These would probably be fine for the lambda relay since I think the current is below 5 amps but I always try to keep things as cool as possible. So this project gets delayed.

FYI:

PCB copper is the weight of one square foot of copper. So 1 oz. copper is 0.0014" inch thick. Outside layers get plated so holes get a plated through connection and prevent the copper from oxidation so you can solder good connections. So normally the outside copper is less weight and the plating builds up the thickness to your specification. Thicker copper (higher weight) cost more and requires more space and thicker traces because the copper etching has to remain longer and it eats some of the sides of your traces.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well my circuit board house did a cut of a board I sent back and they measured the copper and said they are 2 oz. copper.

So if I want to run these as the blower relays I would need to order boards with 4 oz. copper.

I measured the current the lambda relay conducts and it is about 2 amps. So I'm going to build these boards I have as originally interned as lambda only relays. You won't get any measurable heating from only a 2 amp load. The control current is 4.62 ma with 13.5 volts on the control pin.

[iflights]

Thank you for the update. Looking forward to having one in my car.

[DMC-81]

Thank you for the update. Looking forward to having one in my car.

+1