mine was already removed before i bought it, i can see no holes in the footwell behind the carpet. No one the left side, not on the back.
perhaps somebody has a picture clearly showing the spot?
mine was already removed before i bought it, i can see no holes in the footwell behind the carpet. No one the left side, not on the back.
perhaps somebody has a picture clearly showing the spot?
Location: France
Posts: 2,457
My VIN: 16951
Club(s): (DCO) (DOA) (DCUK)
I think this might help you:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HBNXQsRP2_...0/IMG_4475.JPG
Right! thanks! (yeah, left)
That would mean i'd have to extend the wires because FPO (f...ing prev owner) decided just to cut the wires 10 cm from the plug. Hurray.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,582
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Originally the switch was on a bracket on the Lambda counter (that white box you see in the center of the picture) but it was getting kicked so it was moved to the left side of the footwell. There was also a recall on the early switches. If you have a switch but it doesn't have a splotch of white paint on it you should replace it. Refer to SC-06-7/82. Be careful cutting and splicing the wiring. There are 2 separate circuits. One is the ground for the fuel pump and one is to unlock the doors. Do NOT mix them up.
Last edited by David T; 06-20-2014 at 02:48 PM.
David Teitelbaum
Yes David, i know. My switch has no white spot because i bought it two years back at DMCEu, because my car had no switch at all. My VIN is 3695 (sept '81) so that probably before that recall (’82), and the bracket is missing.
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Posts: 476
My VIN: 4099
Club(s): (PNDC)
Here's all the info you need about mounting the switch in the proper location:
http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/SC-06-7.82.html
I've performed this modification several times with no issues using the included paper template. I highly recommend people with an original switch without the white dot get it replaced. I didn't know about this recall until my original one decided to not let my car start one morning! Thankfully it happened while I was at home instead of while driving.
that template is useful, thanks for the link.
Last edited by robvanderveer; 06-20-2014 at 05:06 PM.
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
Ok, in the "learn a new thing every day" category, I gotta ask...
David mentioned the inertia switch getting kicked. I thought the switch got moved because people figured out how to get in your car by banging the panel from the outside and getting your doors to unlock? Are you saying the banging of the switch is actually related to the driver hitting it themselves by accident?
I had never thought of it that way. I have the electrical portion of my door locks disconnected so had never paid it much attention. The killing of the fuel pump though is still kind of important.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
as far as I know, the doors will only unlock when the key is in accessory mode?
and as a side note, i guess you'd have to kick the car pretty hard...
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Posts: 476
My VIN: 4099
Club(s): (PNDC)
I'm not sure on the other questions, but I can say that if you manage to trigger the inertia switch, it will unlock the doors, regardless of the key position. When connected and working properly, the power door locks will work at anytime. Since the inertia switch triggers the lock by grounding the trigger wire, this will work regardless if the engine is on or not.