Broken tailing arm mounting bolt. How to replace?

[jangell]

I was having some electrical issues where the battery light would flash when I hit a bump, so I decided to check and clean the main battery and the various ground connections. Everything looked fine when I got to the battery cable that runs to the passenger side trailing arm, but I figured I'd clean it anyway.

Of course, I'd never removed this bolt before, and I didn't look at the note on the DeLorean.com that mentioned the second locking nut on the back that must be removed first, so I sheered the head of the bolt of.

As I would really prefer not to pull the body off the frame, I'm wondering if anyone can provide any tips on how to fix this.

Thanks

-- Joe

64530842401__2FC5004F-5ABD-4AF4-AA92-28DF3D92EC1E.jpg64530860552__27C7D820-BE00-43F4-AC24-72D08FD1203E.jpg64530846524__F6FA4FFB-1116-4997-811A-56BE995FB300.jpg

[WHO1DMC]

I was having some electrical issues where the battery light would flash when I hit a bump, so I decided to check and clean the main battery and the various ground connections. Everything looked fine when I got to the battery cable that runs to the passenger side trailing arm, but I figured I'd clean it anyway.

Of course, I'd never removed this bolt before, and I didn't look at the note on the DeLorean.com that mentioned the second locking nut on the back that must be removed first, so I sheered the head of the bolt of.

As I would really prefer not to pull the body off the frame, I'm wondering if anyone can provide any tips on how to fix this.

Thanks

-- Joe

64530842401__2FC5004F-5ABD-4AF4-AA92-28DF3D92EC1E.jpg64530860552__27C7D820-BE00-43F4-AC24-72D08FD1203E.jpg64530846524__F6FA4FFB-1116-4997-811A-56BE995FB300.jpg

This is just a thought not knowing how much room there is to work with.
Myself I would finish taking it apart to get a better look at the bolt. Than spray penetrating oil the side that's broken off. I would then use the locking nut as the head and work it out the back side.


Dave B.

[jangell]

This is just a thought not knowing how much room there is to work with.
Myself I would finish taking it apart to get a better look at the bolt. Than spray penetrating oil the side that's broken off. I would then use the locking nut as the head and work it out the back side.

Dave B.

Thanks. Unfortunately, there is basically no space in there. I’m going to hose it down with penetrant and see if I can make progress next weekend. I’m hoping that once I get the lock nut loose that the broken part will spin freely, but we’ll see.

After positing I stumbled onto another thread where someone had a similar problem. It seems some solutions are to chisel off both bolts, EZ Out the broken bolt, or straight drill it out. I’m tempted to try wedding a nut on as a new bolt head, but I’m not entirely sure that will work. Of course I have an automatic transmission, so there’s even less space there than there could be.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?55...-Battery-cable

— Joe

[WHO1DMC]

Thanks. Unfortunately, there is basically no space in there. I’m going to hose it down with penetrant and see if I can make progress next weekend. I’m hoping that once I get the lock nut loose that the broken part will spin freely, but we’ll see.

After positing I stumbled onto another thread where someone had a similar problem. It seems some solutions are to chisel off both bolts, EZ Out the broken bolt, or straight drill it out. I’m tempted to try wedding a nut on as a new bolt head, but I’m not entirely sure that will work. Of course I have an automatic transmission, so there’s even less space there than there could be.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?55...-Battery-cable

— Joe

If you had access to a welder you could weld a nut on. If you don't well I don't either. I would than try to use apoxy that bonds metal and try and glue one on. Last resort drill it and use a easy out.


I have no more ideas.
Dave B.

[jangell]

If you had access to a welder you weld a nut on. If you don't well I don't either. I would than try to use apoxy that bonds metal and try and glue one on. Last resort drill it and use a easy out.

I do have a welder, although I've never tried the "weld a nut on" trick. I previously only had oxyacetylene, but that outputs to much waste heat to try that. I have a basic electric welder know that could probably do it. I'm mostly worried that I might accidentally weld the nut to the mount or the broken bolt to the frame if I'm not careful, and then have a whole new problem.

I am tempted to liquify the broken bolt with my oxy gear, but that would probably wreck the trailing arm bushing, so I probably shouldn't' do that.

I have no more ideas.
Dave B.

We're in the same boat then.

I think I need to take the trailing arm off the of the trailing arm bolt (but not the hub carrier) to get better access, although I don't know if there are things to worry about related to the suspension system itself. Like, is this arm under tension from the spring, and I have to be very careful removing it?

I have a friend who's a mechanic who is going to assist me next Sunday, but I want to get as much information as I can before then.

Thanks!

-- Joe

[Ron]

First, I've never had to do this job... But if you got the nut off, wouldn't the remainder of the bolt still be stuck in the hole? or is there something else threaded I'm missing or ??

[Bitsyncmaster]

Try removing the nut now. It may just pull the broken bolt out when you do it as long as there is room for it and the nut.

[jangell]

There is barely enough room to get a box wrench past the end of the bolt and onto the nut, so I can’t pull the bolt out that way, unfortunately. But if I can get the nut loose (apparently there isn’t enough room to get it all the way off), maybe I can spin the bolt out enough with vice grips to then grab the broken end with more vice grips and pull it out that way, possibly?

Actually getting a wrench on the nut is proving to be a challenge, too. My offset wrenches are too steep (70 degree or something, and my normal wrenches are too shallow of an angle to fit. It’s very annoying.

— Joe

[Jason]

I think I need to take the trailing arm off the of the trailing arm bolt (but not the hub carrier) to get better access, although I don't know if there are things to worry about related to the suspension system itself. Like, is this arm under tension from the spring, and I have to be very careful removing it?

I've removed my trailing arm to do some frame repair. It's under some tension from the suspension geometry and it's own weight, but nothing major. Probably best, and not hard, to remove the arm completely. I would just make sure to have one hand on the arm holding it in place when you remove the bolts, and keep fingers clear so they don't get pinched if things move unexpectedly.

[Helirich]

I will assume you have a automatic. Which I can't help you. (No experince) I've replaced both bolts on my manual.