Posts: 743
My fans kick on a little past the 1/4 mark. But I think my otterstat is a lower setting. You don't want the fans to kick on until your thermostat has been open and the temp starts to rise. So on a cold engine you can feel where the thermostat opens bye feeling the hose feeding the otterstat pipe. Check what your gauge reads then. With the cold radiaor you will see the temp gauge go down and up a little a few times until the coolant warms up the radiator. Now keep it running and when the temp gauge starts to climb that is when you want your fans to kick on. So use your thermostat as your base line test, the gauge is less accurate.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Every car has a slightly different point at which the fans start. The temperature gauge is not that accurate. What is important is how your car acts and if it changes that is a warning sign. Best to use a non-contact infra red temperature gauge and make sure the motor doesn't get over 200 degrees F. As important as when the fans start, when they stop is also important. If the cooling fan circuit breaker popping is what stops them, that is no good. Make sure you have the uprated breaker so the fans don't cycle because the breaker keeps popping and resetting.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 504
My VIN: Yes.
Club(s): (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)
Posts: 1,250
He mentioned an updated breaker. I didn't know anything about this and don't know if I have it or not. (I will investigate) I did know everything else in the post, but not everyone would. So I would have to disagree that it carried no less info than your statement. On the other hand, I would say your post didn't advance our knowledge at all. It would be OK if it was funny, but I didn't get that either.
Just saying.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Too hot is a subjective term. 200 degrees F is a specific temperature. The uprated breaker for the cooling fans are part of each vendor's "Relay Upgrade Kit" that includes several relays and circuit breakers. Each vendor has a slightly different kit of parts they include. Every new owner should make sure they have that kit and also that all of the recalls have been done. If you still have the blue fan fail relay, that should be removed too. I also recommend putting a 10 amp in-line fuse on the big red wire going to the door lock module and replacing the Ducy alternator if you have it. Other "improvements" include the upper muffler bracket, metal header tank, and copper/brass radiator. Tires no older than 7 years (read the date codes) and the battery no more than 5. These are the minimum required to make the car more reliable.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 504
My VIN: Yes.
Club(s): (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)
You don't do irony, do you David? I guess the following will be wasted, but I feel like saying it anyway.
If every new owner followed your advice, they'd be filled with anxiety and would never have time to actually drive their car. New owners (and especially new mechanics) are looking for very specific advice and hand holding, not over-arching guidelines, or life advice.Every new owner.. blah lecture blah
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
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You have leveled up in delorean ownership! You have been around long enough to find David's advice isnt always helpful. He does a great job at reciting the shop manual.
David does mean well, and he somewhat has a grasps on how forums work with how he replies (half the time). But for the most part just says his blurb and moves on. Take it for what its worth I suppose.
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
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I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.
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I'm just posting this so my phone gets updates on this thread.
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