Got a new clutch, having problems shifting into reverse..

[Timebender]

Hi everyone,
I recently had some work done to the car to fix the leaky transmission (lots and lots of black goop coming out..) - which turned out to be a bad sleeve over the input shaft, and how whoever did the engine swap back in the early 80's did it with lot of ingenuity and a bog hammer...

So, the leak is fixed thanks to Don, and we also had the clutch disc replaced, as well as the master cylinder and 4 braid clutch lines. The car shifts fine in all gears, but going into reverse, I have to go fast to prevent lots of grinding, or shut off the car, put it in reverse, then start up and I'm good. He also replaced the reverse switch - don't know if that has an effect or not?

And he did mention the clutch pedal or master can be adjusted - he said it did look like the clutch pedal was adjustable..

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Greg

[dn010]

Try shifting into first, then reverse while stopped.


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[Timebender]

Okay- I'll give it a shot this weekend- in DC til the end of the week.

[David T]

It may take a little wearing in till that stops.

[DMC5180]

Okay- I'll give it a shot this weekend- in DC til the end of the week.

Also post a photo of your clutch pedal linkage.


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[DMC-81]

Hi Greg,

When I finished my clutch job, my crossover cable needed some fine adjustments to return normal shifting in the gears. Initially, I was having the same problems as you with shifting into first gear. I'd suggest checking that cable.

[DMCMW Dave]

It may take a little wearing in till that stops.

As in "all the teeth on reverse gear"?

This typically means one of a couple things:

1 - Air in the hydraulic system. Bleed it again
2 - Flywheel was not "stepped" properly when cut, i.e. too thick. Find another machine shop.
3 - Defective pressure plate. Rare but it happens
4 - Mis-adjusted adjustable link. If you HAVE an adjustable link, please check the linkage and the pins for wear. There are a bunch of them out there that were improperly made and the pins and the link wear rapidly. This will cause the same symptom, and eventually the link or pins will fail causing clutch action to stop working.

[Nicholas R]

Sounds to me like your clutch isn't fully disengaging. The rest of the gears will have a little bit of compliance for this due to the synchronizers (though it will still wear them faster). Reverse in this transmission is not a synchronized gear, and you're likely trying to shift while the input shaft is still rotating. Your previous clutch was probably worn to a point where it wasn't an issue but a brand new clutch is likely a lot more sticky. Luckily if you have an adjustable master cylinder, you should be able to change how much it's engaging, though that too is a balancing act. Like Dave said though, I'd still definitely fully bleed the system to make sure there is no air.

[Timebender]

Thanks guys. Don bled the system a few times, so I doubt there's still any air in there. I'll see if I can adjust the master- it's from DMCH. Also when I get a chance I'll take a look at the linkage by the pedal. Also, where is the crossover cable??

[DMC5180]

The crossover cable adjustment is above the end transmission end cover. Its probably not the issue though, If you don't have issues finding 1st and 3rd.




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