If you are going the DMCH route check out...
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...Kit-NEW-IN-BOX
Good luck.
Location: New England
Posts: 329
My VIN: 10350 & 2083 SEARCHING FOR VIN#16664
Club(s): (DMCNE)
If you are going the DMCH route check out...
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...Kit-NEW-IN-BOX
Good luck.
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SEARCHING FOR VIN #16664
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Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,578
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
If you are going to talk about PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) you should also include eye protection and a mask. Especially when working with Acetone. There is also the fire hazard aspect to consider so as long as the tank is out you should not clean it inside a structure. Do it outside where there is plenty of ventilation. When choosing a mask we are not talking about the disposable dust masks. You should have one that can filter out organic solvents and it should fit properly. Keep water and a fire extinguisher handy. Use a metal can for the waste with a tight fitting lid like a safety can. Dispose of liquids and hazardous waste properly. When you are done that tank should be spotless inside. Take it easy on that stud on the bottom or it can come loose. If the insides of the tank is as nasty as you say, you should flush the feed and return lines to the motor. When done there should be no trace of that "dead" fuel smell if you did it right.
David Teitelbaum
Thanks Jeff. This is sage advice. I use disposable gloves every time I handle chemicals, and breathing protection where appropriate. My uncle was a shop teacher in high school teaching motor mechanics and was an avid DIYer building engines, plank boats, etc. Anyway, later in life, he died of leukemia. It wasn't pretty. I suspect long term exposure to related chemicals.
Here's a good article:
http://www.amfs.com/news/articles-fr...-oil-exposure/
My brother builds various units for crude oil refineries, and he does the same.
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)
Hey Gang! So after a lengthy time away from home it's finally time to start working on the car again.
I was going to get Hervey's fuel puel pump, but can't decide to get the new kit or the Euro kit. I don't know which is better? What do you all think?
Thanks
James
6408 & 2168
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,578
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
The newer replacement unit is very nice but expensive. If all of the parts inside the tank and the sender is also bad, all of those problems are fixed at once with the new unit. If you are on a budget and can salvage most of the old parts,the OEM system is an option.
David Teitelbaum
Yeah unfortunately everything in the tank has to be replaced. The pump no longer functions.
The price for his new fuel pump and the Euro style are the same price. So I didn't know if one was a little better over the other?
James
6408 & 2168
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,181
My VIN: Former owner of 1098
Club(s): (DCF)
Does Hervey's "new" kit allow you to replace individual components if/when they die? Fuel pumps have a finite lifespan, after all. Also, the "Euro" style subjects in-tank rubber hoses & boots to Ethanol based fuels which could affect longevity, just FYI.
The DMCH all in one unit is a bit more pricey, but when the pump component died on me this summer (be sure to thoroughly clean out your tank BEFORE install, boys & girls) , DMCH was able to sell me a replacement pump component, new hoses, and pickup filter for under $100.
You get what you pay for.
Brandon S.
2014 Honda Civic EX
2007 Volvo S60R
I would highly recommend you do some research on Special T and Hervey's reputation. If you need more info just do a search here.