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Thread: BTTF Time Machine Build Questions - Ask Me Anything

  1. #211
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mluder View Post
    What was the scale on the on-screen units? Was it the just the one that the radiation detectors had on them or was it something the props department changed out? I could never figure it out.

    Cheers
    Steve
    The values on the screen used gauges go from 0 to 1.0 in .10 increments and don't have any actual units listed. They are real gauges and not something that production modified. I'm not sure where they would be used in real life, but for "Primary" and "Percent Power" on the meter panel in the time machine they fit the part.



    A long time ago someone created a face plate that could be printed out and applied over an inaccurate gauge face to make it look correct. I'll have to see if I still have that file somewhere and I can share it.
    Last edited by Mark D; 03-01-2017 at 01:36 PM.

  2. #212
    Senior Member mluder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    The values on the screen used gauges go from 0 to 1.0 in .10 increments and don't have any actual units listed. They are real gauges and not something that production modified. I'm not sure where they would be used in real life, but for "Primary" and "Percent Power" on the meter panel in the time machine they fit the part.



    A long time ago someone created a face plate that could be printed out and applied over an inaccurate gauge face to make it look correct. I'll have to see if I still have that file somewhere and I can share it.
    Awesome! Thanks.
    Somewhere I have a .jpg file of the Roentgen gauge that's not too bad. Having the round dials would same me some time from having to create them.

    Cheers
    Steve
    Cheers
    Steven Maguire
    #4456


    IT'S A TRAP!!!!!

  3. #213
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by "What The Flux?" View Post
    Hi Mark D,

    Thank you for all of your fascinating info, this is one of my favorite sites/threads!

    I know you may be limited somewhat in what you can share, but I was wondering if you would be able to provide a bit of info about the plutonium reactor lid? If you are able to share any dimensions including how low it sits underneath the top most lip of the turbine nozzle, it would be awesome!

    Alternatively, would you be able to confirm if these measurements are correct and/or correct them if they are wrong?

    Huge thanks!
    The nuclear reactor hatch is especially near and dear to my heart since I've spent years of my life designing and redesigning the various parts as better an better information became available. Our team collectively spent close to 10 years perfecting the design and actually gave Bob Gale one of the first production run parts as a thanks for making the A car restoration possible.

    Some of the information that we received on this part is not my intellectual property to share but I should still be able to provide some help. For starters, you can't consider the lid by itself as a single part. It was designed as a unit with the lower 'core' that it locks into. The lid and core collectively make up the "reactor hatch" as it is referred to by Michael Scheffe who designed it.

    The core is attached to the turbine nozzle with socket head cap screws, and is concentric with the nozzle. The ID of the core is designed to match the ID of the turbine nozzle. The OD of the lid is just slightly smaller than the ID of the turbine nozzle so it can interlock inside. The outer portion of the core was designed to fit snugly inside the center opening of the hubcap that makes up the top of the nuclear reactor.

    Both the lid and core are made from cut to length sections of 6" OD, 5" OD and 4" OD aluminum tubes with 1/2" wall thickness. The OD of the tubes are machined slightly to allow the three sizes to slide fit/telescope within one another. After cutting to length the tubes are welded together and the 3/4" solid rod handle and 1/8" bottom plates are welded in.

    There is always "the one" photo that was taken that gives just enough information to figure out a certain part. This one photo for the reactor core was a black and white picture taken in 1986 while the car was on display at Universal in the tram tour queue area. The photo was taken at a point in time where the lid had been stolen, and hubcap w/ core had not yet been removed.



    I can't list off dimensions of every part but I can share this screen grab showing a section view of the parts as they fit inside one another.
    It took a team of a dozen guys years and years to figure everything out so it is not my place to share what is not mine. Information was also given to our team in confidence from other outside sources so that muddies the waters even further.



    Given the sizes of each of the tubes that I described, you should be able to scale out pretty much everything else from there without me giving out actual dimensions. It's the best I can do at this point, sorry for having to be vague on the actual numbers.

  4. #214
    Senior Member cpistocco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by minispeedstar View Post
    Doesn't appear to have been shaped very well, almost bulging around the top and sides, the overhang and also the fact it's split / corner missing by one of the screw holes.. wondered if it was more to be screen accurate but after looking at screen shots realised it isn't?...
    Hello Folks
    Does anyone know where the radio shack project boxes can be purchased for the tfc switch, I believe that Video Bob has some....but they aren't cheap.

  5. #215
    Senior Member mluder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpistocco View Post
    Hello Folks
    Does anyone know where the radio shack project boxes can be purchased for the tfc switch, I believe that Video Bob has some....but they aren't cheap.
    They are relatively straightforward. You could have them fabricated or do it yourself if you have a metal brake.
    I opted to order something close. Dimensions are on but it is vented.
    This one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-Metal-In...item36134fa077

    Cheers
    Steven
    Cheers
    Steven Maguire
    #4456


    IT'S A TRAP!!!!!

  6. #216
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2017

    Posts:    8

    About speedo

    Hi all! Hi Mark D.!
    I have a few questions about speedo, please:
    1) Mark D, how do you know that the box was blue in move?
    (you said that it was blue, but then painted in white color)

    2)I did not understand, digits should peek out of the box?
    QIP Shot - Screen 209.jpg
    QIP Shot - Screen 210.jpg

    3) Who knows who I can buy the correct sign?
    I need --> Stanley Readout Replica digits.
    5.jpg6.jpg

    4) What kind of polystyrene diffuse?
    where to get?
    QIP Shot - Screen 211.jpg

    5) As the labels made in 1985 on TCD?
    what а production technology?
    what height a tape?
    label.jpg

    6) What kind a tape used in move for the third digit ?
    This is Gary speedo pic for example
    tape.jpg

    Thx

  7. #217
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revol2 View Post
    Hi all! Hi Mark D.!
    I have a few questions about speedo, please:
    1) Mark D, how do you know that the box was blue in move?
    (you said that it was blue, but then painted in white color)

    2)I did not understand, digits should peek out of the box?
    QIP Shot - Screen 209.jpg
    QIP Shot - Screen 210.jpg

    3) Who knows who I can buy the correct sign?
    I need --> Stanley Readout Replica digits.
    5.jpg6.jpg

    4) What kind of polystyrene diffuse?
    where to get?
    QIP Shot - Screen 211.jpg

    5) As the labels made in 1985 on TCD?
    what а production technology?
    what height a tape?
    label.jpg

    6) What kind a tape used in move for the third digit ?
    This is Gary speedo pic for example
    tape.jpg

    Thx
    1. The original box had areas where the paint was scratched through and you could see the blue plastic below. The paint was an off white/light gray color.

    2. The digits should sit flush with the outside of the case.

    3. Only a couple of Stanley readout displays have ever been found. The couple that still exist actually came from one of the production crew members that still had them from when the screen used cars were built. The bulbs are incandescent and run hot, so small LEDs are usually a better choice when making replicas. I don't have a ready source available for buying castings of the stanley housings. There is also a clear lens that clips over the black plastic housing that needs to be cast or cut from sheets of clear plastic and glued together. Making a mold for casting is difficult due to the shape and depth of the recesses in the part. The black housings may be a good candidate for 3D printing rather than molding. Creating reproduction circuit boards are also a complicating factor.

    A simpler solution is to use a readily available 7 segment LED displays and add plastic housings cut from sheet polystyrene to make them look more like the Stanley displays.

    4. The diffuser is a sheet of matte acetate, can be found at craft stores, amazon, staples, office max, etc.
    https://www.amazon.com/Grafix-Acetat...YPMZ64EREHJ18Z

    5. The TCD labels were originally made with a special type of label maker and required black and red tape that would print white. Finding a vintage label maker and the correct size tape is probably not going to be viable option.

    A much better solution is to have custom vinyl decals printed and then cut them out to size. The Month, Day, Year, Hour, Min labels are .218" tall, the Destination Time, Present Time and Last Time Departed labels are .281" tall, and the AM PM labels are .188 tall. The labels were originally trimmed by hand to fit and are not all perfectly square or exactly the same height. The font is Microgramma Bold Extended

    6. The digital speedo was originally built with three digits and would have read 88.0 when the car hits 88 mph. This presumably proved to be difficult to read on screen and looked like "880" so production covered the tenths digit with a piece of black gaffer's tape.
    https://www.amazon.com/3M-Cloth-Gaff.../dp/B00H95LOIG

  8. #218
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2016

    Posts:    27

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    The nuclear reactor hatch is especially near and dear to my heart since I've spent years of my life designing and redesigning the various parts as better an better information became available. Our team collectively spent close to 10 years perfecting the design and actually gave Bob Gale one of the first production run parts as a thanks for making the A car restoration possible.

    Some of the information that we received on this part is not my intellectual property to share but I should still be able to provide some help. For starters, you can't consider the lid by itself as a single part. It was designed as a unit with the lower 'core' that it locks into. The lid and core collectively make up the "reactor hatch" as it is referred to by Michael Scheffe who designed it.

    The core is attached to the turbine nozzle with socket head cap screws, and is concentric with the nozzle. The ID of the core is designed to match the ID of the turbine nozzle. The OD of the lid is just slightly smaller than the ID of the turbine nozzle so it can interlock inside. The outer portion of the core was designed to fit snugly inside the center opening of the hubcap that makes up the top of the nuclear reactor.

    Both the lid and core are made from cut to length sections of 6" OD, 5" OD and 4" OD aluminum tubes with 1/2" wall thickness. The OD of the tubes are machined slightly to allow the three sizes to slide fit/telescope within one another. After cutting to length the tubes are welded together and the 3/4" solid rod handle and 1/8" bottom plates are welded in.

    There is always "the one" photo that was taken that gives just enough information to figure out a certain part. This one photo for the reactor core was a black and white picture taken in 1986 while the car was on display at Universal in the tram tour queue area. The photo was taken at a point in time where the lid had been stolen, and hubcap w/ core had not yet been removed.



    I can't list off dimensions of every part but I can share this screen grab showing a section view of the parts as they fit inside one another.
    It took a team of a dozen guys years and years to figure everything out so it is not my place to share what is not mine. Information was also given to our team in confidence from other outside sources so that muddies the waters even further.



    Given the sizes of each of the tubes that I described, you should be able to scale out pretty much everything else from there without me giving out actual dimensions. It's the best I can do at this point, sorry for having to be vague on the actual numbers.
    Hi Mark,

    Thank you very much for such an interesting and informative response. I love reading your kind responses to peoples questions and learning such incredible detail about the history of the parts. You really are of huge benefit to the community.

    I completely understand about the sensitivity of some of this information, especially considering the intellectual property of others involved. I think it is very respectful of you to consider them before just simply publicising information.

    No need to apologize at all! I am very grateful for the information that you have kindly shared with us.

    Thanks again for your time.

  9. #219
    Senior Member cpistocco's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2013

    Location:  Cranston, RI

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    Quote Originally Posted by mluder View Post
    They are relatively straightforward. You could have them fabricated or do it yourself if you have a metal brake.
    I opted to order something close. Dimensions are on but it is vented.
    This one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-Metal-In...item36134fa077

    Cheers
    Steven
    Thanks Steven...
    You are always very helpful. I guess I have 2 choices...
    1) Buy the ebay box for $20.00 (It looks pretty close!)
    2) Drop $100.00 for video bob's. ( I wouldn't mind it so much if it includes the switches and gizmos shown in his photos) I cant seem to get an answer from him as to whether or not those odds and ends are included....
    Does anyone know?
    -Best
    Charlie

  10. #220
    Senior Member mluder's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by cpistocco View Post
    Thanks Steven...
    You are always very helpful. I guess I have 2 choices...
    1) Buy the ebay box for $20.00 (It looks pretty close!)
    2) Drop $100.00 for video bob's. ( I wouldn't mind it so much if it includes the switches and gizmos shown in his photos) I cant seem to get an answer from him as to whether or not those odds and ends are included....
    Does anyone know?
    -Best
    Charlie
    Thanks for the compliment but most of the credit goes to my friends Jon and Gary. Those guys are wizards at finding the stuff. I'm just sharing what they shared with me.

    As far as the box goes, if Bob's comes with the switches for $100 that's a pretty good price. In terms of time savings. However the switches can be found on eBay relatively inexpensively.

    Cheers
    Steve
    Cheers
    Steven Maguire
    #4456


    IT'S A TRAP!!!!!

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