By the time you will be replacing the brake lines again that grease will have dried up and hardened. All it will do is attract dirt and moisture. Forget the grease.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
By the time you will be replacing the brake lines again that grease will have dried up and hardened. All it will do is attract dirt and moisture. Forget the grease.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 160
My VIN: 04629
Thanks Chris4099,
I'll keep that option in mind, when I attempt removing that last nut and the end of flex brake line into the side of the chassis.
Thank-you all owners for your suggestions, this is really an easy car to work on! (I just keep telling myself this to get through it)
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 160
My VIN: 04629
Fellow Owners,
First of all, I conquered this project, finally! Thanks for your suggestion Mark D.
Here's how this went.........'Splash pan' must be removed or you'll be talking loudly to yourself! Then pull away from the frame the A/C return line(which rests on top of the heater hoses), then get 'channel lock' pliers to grab the metal part of the flex line coming out of the frame side(between all those hoses), spray penetrating oil on the connection and 'wiggle' those pliers for the next several hours!!
I also did use my caveman abilities and hit this connection from the outside(before attaching pliers) with 1/2 socket extensions from below, in front, and from behind. This helped loosen the "hex fitting" around the brake line and I was eventually able to use my hands and finally remove this flex brake line.
I'm so damn happy, brake system has been rebuilt and no more caliper 'hanging up'.
Hey that's great to hear you got the old fittings hammered out and the rest of the brake system rebuilt. Hope you're enjoying the nice smooth stops
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 160
My VIN: 04629
I originally bought Herverys M/C but when I learned the proportioning in that unit is 50/50, I bought a new original one which is 68/32 (rear/front). My rationale was, aside from maintaining the original engineering, our cars are not known for having a strong front suspension. I found this video of the front end in action. Notice the flex under braking:
https://youtu.be/CMHO4Aydk04
So, I didn't want to increase the braking using a M/C unit that was designed for a Saab or something like that. I think that unit would be good once the front end is strengthened with new LCA's and outriggers, etc.
That's just my opinion.
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 160
My VIN: 04629
Thanks for your opinion, I value your information as you have, been there, done that!
I won't be replacing my LCA's or the outriggers for a little while, based on your experience I'll replace Herveys M/C with an original. That video is kinda scary, stay away from 'chuck-holes'.
Location: Santa Cruz, Ca
Posts: 209
My VIN: 10588
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Crows foot!!! They literally saved me when replacing all my brake lines. I was able to set the crows foot, then get my ratchet in there and pop!
-Luigi-
Thank you ALL for your patience and your tremendous help!
1982 VIN#10588 Build Date Dec '81
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 160
My VIN: 04629
I saw that this was going to be a horrible "cussing session", so I went to Harbor Freight and purchased 'crows feet'. Those tools were worth every penny, I got both types for <$25 total.
Now after completing that brake job all is well, with new tools!
My motto is; "Any excuse to buy a new tool"