When subject to vibration, you put some RTV on the large components (mostly large capacitors) to "glue" them to the PCB. If other users have not had problems, you are probably OK running the sub in the box.Originally Posted by jawn101
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,008
My VIN: 03572
When subject to vibration, you put some RTV on the large components (mostly large capacitors) to "glue" them to the PCB. If other users have not had problems, you are probably OK running the sub in the box.
Location: Moline,IL
Posts: 135
My VIN: 3390
I just ordered that Amp, should have it in a few days, with the DMC-CA sub in there is still room behind it. We will see come Sunday.
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Oh awesome. I'm really interested to hear your results. You can do one of two things by my calculations: Mount the amp right to the back of the sub box, or bolt it down to the floor of the cubby. I was planning on making a plastic sheet the same shape as the bottom of the cubbyhole and mounting the amp to that so that it would be easily removable if I needed to work on the parking brake cables, and so that I wouldn't need to drill the fiberglass. Take lots of pictures!!
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,008
My VIN: 03572
Remove the carpet insert in the cubby for more room. I did that and just got my 10 disk CD player to fit in there.
Location: Lexington, NC
Posts: 791
My VIN: #5000 (Grey, manual, SS chassis, intercooled twin turbo), #16128 (Grey, auto, efi twin turbo), #888
Club(s): (DCVA) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
In #16128, the amp is beneath the passenger seat. I don't have to worry about heat, b/c the amp adjusts power on its own and will shut down before overheating.
Location: Moline,IL
Posts: 135
My VIN: 3390
Picked up a Amp install kit 500W from Best Buy. The local auto audio install business just went out of business so the only place in town is best buy. The kid told me that everything I need would be in the kit. Putting an Amp and sub in has been expensive and it's not even installed yet.
I'll also be putting in new striker pins and AC sticker on Sunday.
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Sounds like it might be a first install for you, so just one word to the wise. Do *NOT* neglect to install the inline fuse that surely came with your amp install kit. And install it as close as humanly possible to the battery. That way when and if the huge power wires you run to the amp get chafed through and short out, the fuse will blow before your car burns.
Also, from that you can infer that you must be very careful where and how you run those power wires. If your amp kit came with some of that hard plastic wire protector stuff, *use it* on the power wires. Don't run them both inside one tube if you can avoid it.
Can't wait to hear how this goes! You're getting a jump on me with my own plan
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: Moline,IL
Posts: 135
My VIN: 3390
Here are some pre-install photos.
Items needed to complete. DMC-CA Sub in a box, Amp wiring kit, JL amp and one DMC
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Right on. That looks like it's going to work exactly as I hopedHere are some pre-install photos.
Items needed to complete. DMC-CA Sub in a box, Amp wiring kit, JL amp and one DMC
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: Moline,IL
Posts: 135
My VIN: 3390
My budy helped me install the amp today.
It was stright forward amp install. drilled through the bottom of the battery box to get the wires down. There is a spot right infront of the fuse holder with nothing there.
Hooked the radio wires up as needed and ran them on the passanger side seat along carpet.
Removed rear glove box door and installed the sub.
Hardest part was finding a good spot for the amp. To big to put in with the sub, or up by the trunk release. So we noticed the fire wall has a 1 in thick pad and if it was cut to the shap of the amp it would fit right in. So we cut it and drilled it to the back firewall, I then put high heat sealer on the back of the screw heads that went into the egine bay. I would say there is about a 1/4 - 1/2 gap between the back panel and the amp.
We drove around and I did not get hot.
Here are some photos and videos.
After everthing has been installed.
Video of sub - not great video
Then just a video of DMCMW 2-Stage.
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