Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 2,405
My VIN: 01049
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
I was not aware the cars never had A.R. Springs from the factory.
When I said original style, I was referring to a style clip/spring that I had seen offered by you and other vendors over the years.
As for anti-squeal, I didn't have the OE anti-squeal shims. Installing the shims and springs fixed both of my issues.
Last edited by DMC5180; 09-18-2017 at 09:41 PM.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Metallics, semi-metalics, and ceramics, at least the ones sold for racing, WILL chew up rotors and are not meant for street driving. If you are using them they are a hybrid and not true ceramics or metallics. IMHO it is best to go with what the Delorean vendors offer. They use them for their service customers and are the right mix of driving characteristics, life, noise, and dirt for street driving. Often, if you are buying other things, buying brake pads from the Delorean vendors will work out cheaper than finding them on your own. These terms have become marketing terms and have become meaningless. Check for the EE, FF, EF or something similar to understand exactly what kind of pad you have. You cannot go by what is on the box.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 2,405
My VIN: 01049
Hopelessness is 100% assured at this point. Time to put The Guru on the block list.
-Mike
My engine twists my frame.
1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
2005 Elise, stock
2016 Chevy Cruze
Who are you talking to? At this point, I'm not taking any brake pad advice from you as it's nonsense. You said twice to stay away from ceramics. That's ridulous. Do you know that DMC sells ceramic pads?
http://store.delorean.com/p-7406-fro...disc-pads.aspx
When called out on it, now you are talking about "racing" pads.
David, I'm going to offer you some unsolicited advice.
1) Take the silly "DeLorean Guru" off your avatar as its apparently forcing you to make unwise statements to defend it. There are lots of experts on this forum.
2) Take the time to actually READ the post and offer targeted advice to the problem at hand. You mentioned a couple times that you are offering your shotgun style advice for the benefit of other owners. This approach comes off as a disingenuous copy and paste generic response. Don't worry about trying to address the questions that haven't been asked. Let those people do their searches and if necessary, ask them.
3) It's OK to admit you were wrong. In fact, it's better for your credibility that you do.
We are all trying to help other owners with our collective experience. You have some good advice sometimes when you target your response.
Last edited by DMC-81; 09-19-2017 at 04:08 AM.
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)
That I cannot argue with. It is far cheaper and easier to buy the pads & hardware kits from a DeLorean vendor to save both time and money. I bought a set of brake pads *once* from AutoZone years ago, and wasted so much time in their manuals trying to match up the silhouettes in the books to the old pads I brought in. In the time it took driving to the store, searching for the correct pads, and then home, I could have been at least half way through my brake job had I just have ordered the parts in advance. Worst part? The damn things squealed worse than a city bus! I ended up ordering another set from P.J. Grady with their hardware kit w/springs, and they were silent from there on out.
I also have ceramic pads installed on my F-150 w/stock calipers and brand new rotors. I *do* notice that on very cold winter mornings I have to warm the brakes up a bit to get their grabbing power back up to normal. But it's only about a block or two of red lights and stop signs that get them up to snuff, and it's not all that bad. It's not like I have zero braking ability, it just has slightly more stopping distance, and like I say, it quickly disappears. Never had a problem in the frequent Houston rains personally, but whenever it's wet I always brake slowly to scrape rain water & road grime off to ensure I grip proper. Now truck brakes also are overbuilt from the factory because it's expected they'll be dealing with greater weights from cargo & towing payloads, so for everyday driving it didn't feel that different. But when worked them harder I could definitely tell that the ceramic pads performed much better when pulling a trailer than the OEM pads when hauling a trailer cross country. Particularly in the steep, windy mountain passes of New Mexico, during rain storms. Otherwise, ensure you get some quality lubricants for your caliper & drum assemblies on whatever vehicle you're working on.
If noting else, the low/non-existent dust from ceramic pads alone makes them worth the cost. I'd love to source some for my DeLorean in the upcoming year. The brake fade on stock when coming down from triple-digit speeds on the open highway wasn't the most comforting feeling in the world. But even if I opted for 3rd party pads again, there is no way in hell I'd ever install them without Grady's hardware kit.
Robert
People they come together, people they fall apart...
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
Is there something actually available for purchase for the rear brakes? I have had the front hardware kit clips and shims in place on the fronts, but had always been under the impression a similar kit was not available for the rears. My rears tend to "click" and I'd love to put something similar in place on those. I had not thought the front hardware kit would also work/fit on the rears, but maybe I was mistaken?
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Jonathan,
Didn't you post some photos of your front hardware installation? If so, please repost the thread link here.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
I do not expect everyone on this forum to agree with my advice. In fact, it makes the forum better, challenging each other's positions and advice. Some things raise people's opinions to a religious zeal, oil, brake pads, etc. That is all well and good. In the end we are all here to offer our opinions and advice for the greater group. My goal is to help as many owners take the best care of their car that they can. Not all will follow my advice, I understand that. Occasionally I can also be wrong. I think it is over the line to attack me personally though. I have not attacked anyone personally for their opinions, I have challenged their advice. Sometimes they are wrong. That is the self-correcting thing about this forum. I accept it and so should you. When you don't agree with me you attack my credentials. I would put my experience and credentials up against anyone. I have been on this forum and it's predecessor for many years and contributed much of my knowledge and experience towards helping other owners with their cars. In the local area I actually go and help owners with their cars. Disagree with me, that's fine but to disparage me, that is not. Getting back to brake pads, you should do your research. What they call ceramics today are not truly ceramics. The same goes for most other things. These terms have become marketing tools and as such they have become meaningless. Today's ceramic pads are a hybrid of several types of materiel (at least the ones sold for the street). By blending different types of materiel they try to get the best qualities of each while mitigating the worst ones. Kind of like Orange Juice. They are allowed to say it's orange juice in their advertising even if it is only 15% orange juice! The only true measure of a brake pad is the double letter designation required by Federal Law stamped onto each pad. This is getting esoteric. The bottom line here for most owners is to buy their parts from their favorite Delorean vendor as much as they can. They will get (for the most part) parts that fit, will work as intended, and will usually be at competitive prices.
David Teitelbaum