Location: Bay Area
Posts: 381
My VIN: 10644
Congratulations on your purchase and on your maiden voyage. I'd test that your torsion bars are adjusted correctly before buying gas struts. Support the door well and remove the gas strut. Carefully lower the door and let it hang. It should hold itself a few inches from closing. If the door closes, then you'll want to adjust the bar before worrying about the struts.
Christian Williams, Bay Area
#3452 from 2000-2005
#10644 since 2015
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 2,079
My VIN: 0934
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Do you say this because you know the pass. door strut is new and the driver door strut isn't? Or do you say it because the pass. door stays up and the driver door sags?
a. Try Christian's recommended test (post 11) on both doors.Originally Posted by TheStoot
b. And swap the door struts L/R to see if the problem swaps sides when the struts are swapped.
These tests take <10min and will reveal something about both of the gas struts and both bar settings.
Best practice is to only adjust either of the torsion bars after determining the situation with two known-good struts installed. Preferably two new ones from same vendor at the same time.
March '81, 5-speed, black interior
Location: Danvers, ma
Posts: 104
My VIN: 4328
I figured out the doors, they just needed new gas struts. Got em from PJ Grady and they work awesome! The driver door lights ended up being a loose connection at the door plunger so that was an easy cleanup and fix. Since I've gotten back home I found that the car is always running in open loop. I've replaced the o2 sensor, did a tuneup with new plugs and wires and upgraded all the relays and fuses but still can't get into closed loop. No buzzing from the frequency valve. Gotta check the Lambda ecu next. Replaced the shift boot, led lights in the doors and bonnet, re did the melted wiring to the reverse switch. Re did all the corroded connections to the original power antenna so that and stock radio and speakers now work. Re sautered my passenger side tail light board so both my brake lights work. Removed my headliners to get those ready to re line. Got new inner door seals and floormats for both sides. Adjusted rear parking brake pads on both sides so emergency brake works. New stainless steel muffler shield to replace the old asbestos one that was warping and rubbing. Put a new engine cover hold up bracket on so i don't need a 2x4 to hold it open. New convex mirrors cause i couldn't see out of my old ones! new rear brake pads. gas cap and header bottle cap were replaced. Been busy so far in just a few weeks of ownership but I love it. Been to a few local car shows and joined the North East Region DeLorean (NERD) club! My son absolutely loves the car too! The only thing of concern now is trying to get it tuned correctly, she is running quite rich cause she's tuned to run in open loop which i heard can be quite common with some peoples cars but the wife hates when i come back inside and smel20201005_181714.jpg20201008_173501.jpgl like exhaust
Last edited by TheStoot; 10-29-2020 at 12:15 PM.
Location: Danvers, ma
Posts: 104
My VIN: 4328
Dont' know why it uploads my pics sideways
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 791
Probably you used a cell phone camera to take the pictures. If so, some try to "help" you by storing which way is up, but it can get confused when you turn the camera sideways while tilting it vertically too far at the same time. Happens to me too, very annoying. Sometimes (in fact often), with technology, wise guy programmers try to "help" you too much. Wish they'd just stop and let us figure things out for out for ourselves sometimes. End of rant.
Anyway, fixed it for ya, here ya go...
20201005_181714.jpg
20201008_173501.jpg
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Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,578
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
It's running in open loop because it is too rich. Get it leaner before you foul your new O2 sensor.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Danvers, ma
Posts: 104
My VIN: 4328
I can lean it out till the engine just about sputters and dies but no where in between there can i get the frequency valve buzzing at all. I think I may have a bad dwell meter also because the needle doesn't move at all from connecting it to the motor to disconnecting and everything in between...ughhh
Posts: 743
You won’t notice a dwell change if the Lambda ECU is commanding a fixed value. Have you run the Lambda tests in the Tech book? If the Lambda ECU receives a grounded signal on the O2 wire it will command 87% regardless of your mixture setting.
Two things you could try:
1) apply 12 volts directly to the FV to see if it works at all
2) borrow a Lambda ECU from another owner
And if you haven’t already, download a copy of the Tech book and run the Lambda tests.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,005
My VIN: 03572
If your meter is working and the lambda ECU is powered it should read a dwell reading all the time. Are you checking dwell on the orange wire that goes to the diagnostic connector and the meter is grounded to the engine?
Most common cause of no lambda power is the wrong relay is installed in the "main fuel relay". But another common cause is the RPM relay output #2 is not working.
Location: Western MASS
Posts: 32
My VIN: 16064
Nice having another DMC in Mass.
Looks like you have been busy since you bought the car.
You picked the right place to get information. These guys are great and informative.
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