Brake questions

[alexwolf1216]

Hi guys. I just completed a brake refresh and I have a few questions.

I bled the brakes twice, both times I had nice clean fluid coming out of all 4 calipers and no visible air. The pedal still feels a bit soft, but it stops. I dont have another local owner that I know on which to compare it to, so it might be normal, I dont know.

I also think a rotor is rubbing against the dust shield or even pads. I hear a constant grinding as I drive. I had refurb hubs sent to me, and they were a mother to get on. I plan to get the car to my shop to cut the rotors, but I havent made it there yet.

Should I see the rear brakes working while bleeding the car? I dont see the pads moving at all, on either rear caliper, and there is a lilttle movement in the pad if i grab it and move it. Normal or no?

I should mention all of the hard lines were replaced, the front soft lines were as well, and the master cylinder was just replaced at DMCMW.

[Spittybug]

Sounds like frozen pistons.

[David T]

Hi guys. I just completed a brake refresh and I have a few questions.

I bled the brakes twice, both times I had nice clean fluid coming out of all 4 calipers and no visible air. The pedal still feels a bit soft, but it stops. I dont have another local owner that I know on which to compare it to, so it might be normal, I dont know.

I also think a rotor is rubbing against the dust shield or even pads. I hear a constant grinding as I drive. I had refurb hubs sent to me, and they were a mother to get on. I plan to get the car to my shop to cut the rotors, but I havent made it there yet.

Should I see the rear brakes working while bleeding the car? I dont see the pads moving at all, on either rear caliper, and there is a lilttle movement in the pad if i grab it and move it. Normal or no?

I should mention all of the hard lines were replaced, the front soft lines were as well, and the master cylinder was just replaced at DMCMW.

Depending on which hoses you have the pedal may be softer or harder. When you step on the pedal the hoses can swell under pressure, some more than others. The braided S/S hoses are the best as they will swell the least. You do not see the pads or pistons move but the rotor should turn easily when you are not stepping on the pedal and when you do step on the pedal the rotors should be locked solid and unturnable by hand. You may have a dust shield rubbing or something else. Should be easy to figure out. Turn the rotor by hand and see which one is noisy. Take the brakes apart till the noise goes away. Maybe you installed a pad wrong? You only need to cut rotors if the pedal pulsates or they are grooved. They should be scuffed up with 120# in a circular pattern to curt the glaze so the new pads can bed in against virgin materiel. Make sure the emergency brake (aka parking brake) works. If a 5-speed flush the clutch now too.

[NightFlyer]

Hi guys. I just completed a brake refresh and I have a few questions.

I bled the brakes twice, both times I had nice clean fluid coming out of all 4 calipers and no visible air. The pedal still feels a bit soft, but it stops. I dont have another local owner that I know on which to compare it to, so it might be normal, I dont know.

I also think a rotor is rubbing against the dust shield or even pads. I hear a constant grinding as I drive. I had refurb hubs sent to me, and they were a mother to get on. I plan to get the car to my shop to cut the rotors, but I havent made it there yet.

Should I see the rear brakes working while bleeding the car? I dont see the pads moving at all, on either rear caliper, and there is a lilttle movement in the pad if i grab it and move it. Normal or no?

I should mention all of the hard lines were replaced, the front soft lines were as well, and the master cylinder was just replaced at DMCMW.

I completely rebuilt my calipers just last year, and refurb'd the system - new master cylinder, new soft lines, new pads (DMCH/MW ceramics), new bleed valves/nipples, and new fluid. Fully bled, pedal travel is about 1/3 of it's total before the pads really start grabbing the rotors (which is different than a new/modern car, where you get decent grab at about 10% of the pedal's travel).

If you haven't rebuilt the calipers yet, it's not a bad idea to do so - takes a solid day of work to do, but isn't anything hard/difficult.

As for your constant grinding noise, I hope it's the rotor hitting the shield, as you'd merely bend the shield away.

Best luck :thumbup:

[alexwolf1216]

OK, I had to move three cars to get it out of the garage, a Lincoln navigator, a 14' ford escape, and a 78 bus. All of them were a bit firmer which is why I was concerned.

I'm 99% sure its the passenger front dust shield. I'll take the wheels off again and bend it out. Thanks.

[NightFlyer]

If a 5-speed flush the clutch now too.

I'd approach doing this with some degree of caution. If you're not sure when this was last done, or the age of the master/slave, then do so only if you have the time/ability to rebuild/replace the the master and slave, as if your existing ones are old, introducing new fluid to the system will cause the the old one's to start leaking.

I'm still running Dunmurry clutch fluid in my car just fine (was orange when I bought the car, but has turned grey over the years). As I'm not preparing to rebuild/replace the master/slave just yet, I'm still milking the factory fluid (together the the nylon/plastic clutch line).

[alexwolf1216]

I should also mention I was super irritated with the steering clunking all over. Took a look and the rack boots are gone as is the steering column bushing. Read over Alex's blog and it doesnt sound any harder to do than the brakes so I think that's next on the agenda before my ac

[alexwolf1216]

My car is an auto. Funny, the e brake didn't seem to be grabbing either. I know I hooked it up right

[NightFlyer]

I should also mention I was super irritated with the steering clunking all over. Took a look and the rack boots are gone as is the steering column bushing. Read over Alex's blog and it doesnt sound any harder to do than the brakes so I think that's next on the agenda before my ac

Hmm... if the rack boots are gone, then you're probably going to want to replace the rack, as the one in there is probably screwed due to a lack of adequate/proper lubrication. If you're looking to 'upgrade' the steering, as opposed to merely fixing the stock system, then see this thread:

http://dmctoday.com/showthread.php?531-Spec-01-Steering

[NightFlyer]

My car is an auto. Funny, the e brake didn't seem to be grabbing either. I know I hooked it up right

You probably did hook it up right - it just needs adjusting, which is really easy to do (assuming that the cables connecting the brake handle and e-brake assembly are properly connected at both ends and aren't frozen):

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3249-Handbrake-Adjustment&p=44561&viewfull=1#post44561

[alexwolf1216]

Looks like the same thing I read
http://delorean6575revisited.blogspot.com/?m=1

[NightFlyer]

Looks like the same thing I read
http://delorean6575revisited.blogspot.com/?m=1

Alex's blog does kick ass - honored to have met him and to be able to call him a friend :thumbup:

[alexwolf1216]

You probably did hook it up right - it just needs adjusting, which is really easy to do (assuming that the cables connecting the brake handle and e-brake assembly are properly connected at both ends and aren't frozen):

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3249-Handbrake-Adjustment&p=44561&viewfull=1#post44561

I saw them moving when I removed the caliper for replacement, so unless they froze while they were off I should be OK. Is there any reason to put an auto tranny in neutral for this, or is that specific to a 5 speed?

Alex

[NightFlyer]

I saw them moving when I removed the caliper for replacement, so unless they froze while they were off I should be OK. Is there any reason to put an auto tranny in neutral for this, or is that specific to a 5 speed?

Alex

When adjusting the e-brake, you need to be able to turn the rear wheel hubs manually, which wouldn't be very easy to do with the parking pins engaged on the transmission :wink:

[alexwolf1216]

When adjusting the e-brake, you need to be able to turn the rear wheel hubs manually, which wouldn't be very easy to do with the parking pins engaged on the transmission :wink:

Zing.....touche

[NightFlyer]

Zing.....touche

Trust me - I have all too many 'oh duh' moments myself - we're all entitled to as many as we require :biggrin: