New DeLorean Owner Advice

[kdumont]

Hi everyone,

My grandfather recently left me his '81 Delorean. He's owned it since it's original purchase in that year. Since the late 80's/early 90's it's been in his garage, until we pulled it out last year and began restoring it. He had some work done on it when he originally purchased it, including a custom lowered suspension and turbo charger. He says the work was done in New York, but I don't know much other than that (maybe you guys have some ideas).

As he's getting older in his years, he's trying to depart with some belongings. I've always loved the car, but I'm not really in the position to be able to pay a significant amount to have it in storage; I recently graduated college and have a negative net worth. That being the case, I'm leaning towards selling it, and I wonder what would be the best way to go about it. Also, what information is going to be asked of me? Everything I have is below.

Year: 1981
VIN: 16XX
Transmission: Automatic
Milage: ~20K (I have to get the exact #)
Notes: Great condition, original leather
Custom Work:
Original work
o Custom Suspension Lower
o Custom Dual Turbocharge
o Security System
o Brake Pad Conversion for Anti-Lock
o 90 Amp Alternator
o Authentic sheep skin seat covers, manual, hat/jacket
Restoration work
o All struts replaced
o Fuel sensor replaced
o New battery
o Tires restored (low mileage)

The interior is in great condition, and it runs smoothly. The only issue it has is turning over on very damp days. The brakes are a bit soft, but I'm looking into that now.

I didn't include the VIN... yet... as I'm not sure what will come of this.


Thanks!
Kyle

[sdg3205]

First and foremost: Welcome!

Second: We need to see pictures.

Third: You don't have to disclose your VIN, but there's no harm in sharing it. Just FYI.

The big issue with sitting DeLoreans is the fuel system. Have you cleaned it from the tank to the injectors? Are you saying that humidity makes it harder to start?

As for the brakes - it would be best to flush the entire system and rebuild the callipers, making sure there are no pitted pistons that will soon cause leaks. I've found Dot 4 brake fluid turns to snot when left sitting for years.

[NightFlyer]

Everything that Dave stated above - pictures are a must. Provide undercarriage pictures if you can, as a large amount of the value is going to be dependent upon the condition of the frame.

What's this anti-lock brake conversion that you reference exactly? Is it an early Teves design or something? Whatever it is, if you stated it correctly, it sounds like a potential nightmare/disaster IMHO.

From the way you describe thus far though, sounds like a very nice car that could potentially be worth a good bit of money (relatively speaking of course).

[kdumont]

Thanks for the welcome, Dave. I'll grab some pictures this weekend. To appease in the meantime I attached some older Polaroids I scanned in.

I haven't been involved in all of the work, but while I was down at school a couple years back he drained the line and replaced the fuel filter, plugs, and (I believe) ignition coil. It does get difficult to start under humidity. My understanding is that the turbos are throwing moisture back into the cylinder. Once it warms up it runs great. Adding octane boost to the fuel took care of it before, so I'm going to try that this weekend to see if it helps. The fuel in it has been sitting for some time.. possibly causing an issue.

I'll see if I can flush the brake line this weekend. I was mistaken about the brakes. I was going off of my grandfathers notes on original work, and what he was actually indicating is that he bought bronze-impregnated pads to keep the brakes from locking, not a full aftermarket anti-lock system.

He also upgraded to a 160mph speedometer, and was under contract for a 190mph top speed with the turbo work. He was under the impression that it would top 180 (though I find it hard to believe).


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[vps3922]

He also upgraded to a 160mph speedometer, and was under contract for a 190mph top speed with the turbo work. He was under the impression that it would top 180 (though I find it hard to believe).

180-190 MPH? I find this a bit hard to believe. You would have to push mine over a cliff to get that from it. 180-190 MPH are about 300 KM/H. :ehh:

[kdumont]

I definitely won't argue with that. Maybe I can get it to a dyno in the future..

I'm just hesitant to pay to register/insure it at this point. I'll get engine pics for now in any case.

[Domi]

Welcome to the forum ;)
Nice pictures, I'll be happy to see the engine compartment :)

[Nicholas R]

180-190 MPH? I find this a bit hard to believe. You would have to push mine over a cliff to get that from it. 180-190 MPH are about 300 KM/H. :ehh:


I definitely won't argue with that. Maybe I can get it to a dyno in the future..

I'm just hesitant to pay to register/insure it at this point. I'll get engine pics for now in any case.

Just for the record, you would have to take 5th gear to about 7100 rpm to reach 190mph. Good luck. Given the existing redline; the theoretical top speed of the car is ~170mph (if you could actually redline 5th gear).

The published/promotional top speed is 130mph. I've had my car up to 130 and even with my suspension and steering upgrades, it's still pretty nerve-racking. This car was never designed for that kind of speed, no matter what the pamphlets say.

[kdumont]

Just for the record, you would have to take 5th gear to about 7100 rpm to reach 190mph. Good luck. Given the existing redline; the theoretical top speed of the car is ~170mph (if you could actually redline 5th gear).

The published/promotional top speed is 130mph. I've had my car up to 130 and even with my suspension and steering upgrades, it's still pretty nerve-racking. This car was never designed for that kind of speed, no matter what the pamphlets say.

Ha, thanks for the stats and first-hand info. That makes sense to me. If it's not evident yet, I'm still getting familiar with the car. I have a background in engineering, so most of this comes pretty naturally, but I don't have a heavy background in autos, other than maintenance on my Civic. This be new territory.

I checked out your blog, and you've got a pretty amazing setup. Congrats.


@Domi, thanks!

[David T]

It would be helpful to see pictures in regards to the turbo set-up so you can know which set-up you actually have. One pic from the top would be enough. If you have 2 turbos the chances are it is the Island Turbo conversion with or without cats. You should inventory anything you also have in regards to the car like the luggage rack, manuals, original paperwork, spare parts, etc. If it is hard to start on damp days you probably need to tune it up and replace the ignition wires and spark plugs. At this point you should change ALL of the fluids and filters. if you do not have the funds either put the car back into proper storage (which will still cost you money!) or sell it.

[Rich]

That being the case, I'm leaning towards selling it, and I wonder what would be the best way to go about it. Also, what information is going to be asked of me?

The interior is in great condition, and it runs smoothly. The only issue it has is turning over on very damp days. The brakes are a bit soft, but I'm looking into that now.

You are a new owner and you want to know (a) how to sell a DeLorean and (b) what a prospective buyer is going to want to know?

Good questions.

Not having sold ours I can't offer advice on (a) from personal experience. The options include listing it on this forum, any other forum, eBay Motors, Hemmings Motor News, craigslist via a car consignment shop, and maybe one or two others. You can list it in more than one place.

Offering it worldwide vs. NorthAm-only may be a consideration. Also consider your availability and your patience level - some listings generate more flaky leads than others.

As far as (b) goes your list is a good start. Be sure to highlight the interior trim (black vs gray) since most shoppers select first on the transmission type and that factory-build criteria. Some shoppers will look for evidence that the car is, or can be made, original. Others are looking for mods like suspension and engine upgrades as you have. You will want to give details of the twin turbo and suspension mods since they are not all the same. The antilock brake pads will take some explaining, too. Since not all cars have their original hoods or wheels (color) so you may wish to specify same. Photos will show it but it helps to list it anyway. Also talk about the condition of the A/C system and whether it is still R-12 or has been converted.

Others already mentioned photos.

One suggestion is to just go on eBay and any consignment lines to see how others are listing theirs.

Good luck with the project.

[OverlandMan]

I understand you're trying to be smart about this and sell the car because you're not in a position to maintain it, store it, drive it, keep it, etc. But if you really do love it, you'll find a way to make it happen and keep it. And if you really do love it and you do end up selling it, you'll probably be kicking yourself 10 years down the road.

Most of us here would have killed to have a DeLorean in the family left to them.

I'm not trying to get all philosophical or play big brother and tell you what to do. Whatever you decide good luck. Most of the folks here are very knowledgeable and helpful.

[PB Co]

I understand you're trying to be smart about this and sell the car because you're not in a position to maintain it, store it, drive it, keep it, etc. But if you really do love it, you'll find a way to make it happen and keep it. And if you really do love it and you do end up selling it, you'll probably be kicking yourself 10 years down the road.

Some good advice here. Just wanted to add that classic car insurance may not be as expensive as you think, especially if you're not doing a lot of miles.

[kdumont]

I understand you're trying to be smart about this and sell the car because you're not in a position to maintain it, store it, drive it, keep it, etc. But if you really do love it, you'll find a way to make it happen and keep it. And if you really do love it and you do end up selling it, you'll probably be kicking yourself 10 years down the road.

I know :/ I have a bad habit if being overly responsible when it comes to spending money. I did get an insurance quote at $169/6mo from State Farm (then I can store it for the winter). Problem is, I don't really have room for it at my place, and it kills me to see it sitting under a tarp, unused. I had convinced my grandfather several years ago not to sell it (I think he was undervalued anyways). Now that I'm in the position, I definitely see his reasoning.

That being said, I think getting it out on the road (possibly show) would at least increase the chances of getting a good offer for it. I'm going to get some pictures and video together this weekend, and look into what it would take to get it on the road.

[Dangermouse]

The more roadworthy it is, the more you will get for it. The damp start may be down to old spark plug wires, or just cruddy connections that get worse when it is damp. An afternoon cleaning all the connections would help immensely.

Pictures are a must, particularly of the frame. sgd3205 has a good car on here atm at about $28k and there is an almost as nice (cosmetically) with a shot frame for $5k, the difference being the cost of the frame and the labor in swapping them out. (simplistic view I know as I really haven't compared those two cars in depth, but it illustrates the importance for the frame.

btw, what does

o Tires restored (low mileage)

mean? Did you replace the tires with new ones (or used ones) a few miles ago, or did you "restore" them somehow?

[David T]

The more roadworthy it is, the more you will get for it. The damp start may be down to old spark plug wires, or just cruddy connections that get worse when it is damp. An afternoon cleaning all the connections would help immensely.

Pictures are a must, particularly of the frame. sgd3205 has a good car on here atm at about $28k and there is an almost as nice (cosmetically) with a shot frame for $5k, the difference being the cost of the frame and the labor in swapping them out. (simplistic view I know as I really haven't compared those two cars in depth, but it illustrates the importance for the frame.

btw, what does

o Tires restored (low mileage)

mean? Did you replace the tires with new ones (or used ones) a few miles ago, or did you "restore" them somehow?

"Restored" with Armor-All, some air and new valve caps!

[kdumont]

The more roadworthy it is, the more you will get for it. The damp start may be down to old spark plug wires, or just cruddy connections that get worse when it is damp. An afternoon cleaning all the connections would help immensely.

Pictures are a must, particularly of the frame. sgd3205 has a good car on here atm at about $28k and there is an almost as nice (cosmetically) with a shot frame for $5k, the difference being the cost of the frame and the labor in swapping them out. (simplistic view I know as I really haven't compared those two cars in depth, but it illustrates the importance for the frame.

btw, what does

o Tires restored (low mileage)

mean? Did you replace the tires with new ones (or used ones) a few miles ago, or did you "restore" them somehow?

I appreciate the response. There was not much mileage on the existing tires, and they've been in a garage for ~15 years. They were oiled about once a year, but I would say it's at any buyer's discretion whether they replace them or not right away...

In any case, I have some pictures below of the chassis. The lighting is terrible (spiders for size reference), but there is only minor rusting on the chassis IMO. I have buffed much of it and applied POR-15 to keep it from additional rust, but hadn't gotten to this corner yet. What areas should I be looking at in particular for rust? 28945

The interior is basically immaculate.

Here are some pictures with the turbos. As someone mentioned before, I believe it's an island TT. As far as getting the engine to turn over, I'm going to scratch what I said earlier about it having a tough time with moisture. I had it running last fall no problem, but when I had tried to turn it over earlier this year, it was a particularly wet day, and I was attributing that to the problem. That being said, I tried to get it to turn over this past weekend and I couldn't get it to stay either. When I spray starter fluid into the carburetor, it runs no problem. As soon as I stop, the engine stalls out. I'm imagining that the problem is with the fuel line. I originally thought our family friend had drained the fuel line, but I found out this weekend that he hadn't. I plan on siphoning the gas out and replacing with a high-octane. I'll look into how to check the filter as well. Any other ideas?

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[David T]

I appreciate the response. There was not much mileage on the existing tires, and they've been in a garage for ~15 years. They were oiled about once a year, but I would say it's at any buyer's discretion whether they replace them or not right away...

In any case, I have some pictures below of the chassis. The lighting is terrible (spiders for size reference), but there is only minor rusting on the chassis IMO. I have buffed much of it and applied POR-15 to keep it from additional rust, but hadn't gotten to this corner yet. What areas should I be looking at in particular for rust? 28945

The interior is basically immaculate.

Here are some pictures with the turbos. As someone mentioned before, I believe it's an island TT. As far as getting the engine to turn over, I'm going to scratch what I said earlier about it having a tough time with moisture. I had it running last fall no problem, but when I had tried to turn it over earlier this year, it was a particularly wet day, and I was attributing that to the problem. That being said, I tried to get it to turn over this past weekend and I couldn't get it to stay either. When I spray starter fluid into the carburetor, it runs no problem. As soon as I stop, the engine stalls out. I'm imagining that the problem is with the fuel line. I originally thought our family friend had drained the fuel line, but I found out this weekend that he hadn't. I plan on siphoning the gas out and replacing with a high-octane. I'll look into how to check the filter as well. Any other ideas?

28946289472894828949

That is definitely the Island twin turbo set-up. From the pictures the car is basically untouched and very original. In some regards that is a good thing and then not so much. Just about every system will have to be gone over and renewed if not updated. The fuel system is probably full of junk which is why it won't run except on Ether. The brakes will have to be rebuilt. The cooling system, and on and on. Just throwing out some numbers from the scant information my guess is it is worth between $12-15K and that's if you find someone who wants an Island TT. They don't seem to be all that desirable or command a premium.

[kdumont]

That is definitely the Island twin turbo set-up. From the pictures the car is basically untouched and very original. In some regards that is a good thing and then not so much. Just about every system will have to be gone over and renewed if not updated. The fuel system is probably full of junk which is why it won't run except on Ether. The brakes will have to be rebuilt. The cooling system, and on and on. Just throwing out some numbers from the scant information my guess is it is worth between $12-15K and that's if you find someone who wants an Island TT. They don't seem to be all that desirable or command a premium.

Hi David, I'm going to play around with car over the course of the summer. For what it's worth, I was driving the car around the block last fall without any issue. I'm going to replace the fluids and see how she runs. Following that, I'll run through a checklist of anything else I can find that might need work. You've mentioned the cooling system.

We have done a lot of restoration. The spark-plugs were replaced and all of the struts replaced. I've done a lot of cosmetic restoration too, and priming on the undercarriage. It's my understanding that low-mileage, low-VIN, flap-hood, automatic with an original twin turbo is right about the pinnacle of what a buyer would be looking for an in original D. That price seems a bit low to me, but if that's truly the market value for it, I'll more than likely keep it as a project car.


Thanks,
Kyle

[NightFlyer]

OK, I'm going to say it, as I believe it needs to be said.

David is full of shit - that number is WAY too low IMHO. We just had a member sell a half disassembled rolling project car for $9.5k and David thinks this car is only worth slightly more than that one was?!?!? Yeah....

If you know what you're doing and are capable of doing so without making things worse, then I'd put a little time and money into the car to get everything working. This doesn't mean replacing things that are old merely because they're old - but rather only rebuilding/replacing things that have suffered an actual failure.

Follow my flush and refill procedure for doing the coolant fluid change - that should get the coolant system all set for another 6-8 years.

http://dmctoday.com/showthread.php?682-Coolant-Flush-and-Refill-Procedure-To-Avoid-Bleeding

If the brakes were working well when last driven, then I'd merely flush new DOT 4 hydraulic fluid through the system. Check the pads for even wear and amount of meat left - if they're even with 50% or more meat left on each pad, then I'd leave them. If not, then put new pads on all around and check/rebuild any calipers that aren't resulting in uneven pad wear.

If the car is shifting fine, I'd leave the ATF alone for now based on the mileage. At 20k though, it'd be good to change out the final drive / transaxle oil - use regular 80W90 gear oil, as nothing fancy is required. I personally use Lucas 80W90 gear oil.

As you stated that you were driving it last fall, I don't anticipate the fuel system to be a total disaster as David does. Remove the access panel to the fuel tank in the luggage compartment spare tire well, and pull the sending unit. You can drain it from there and use a mirror to inspect the condition of the pump components. If you see debris, floating chunks, or sparkling on the bottom of the tank through the gas, then you'll want to pull the pump, clean the tank thoroughly, and reassemble with new rubber at a minimum. If everything looks good though, then refill with some good ethanol free gas mixed with a bottle of SeaFoam. If you've never changed the fuel filter or don't know when it was last done, then do it - they're cheap. After that, it's a matter of diagnosing K-Jet and only fixing/replacing/rebuilding that which actually needs it. We'll help when you get that far :smile:

Once she's running reliably, if everything is functional, and if nothing is leaking, then after you give the car a good clean up / detailing, I think it's very possible that you could turn $30k+ for the car at one of the national auctions, should you decide to go that route.

Anyway, best luck :thumbup:

[NightFlyer]

More and better pics would allow me to do a more thorough assessment.

For an example of what I mean by a thorough assessment and good pictures:

http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.php?388-My-friend-wants-to-buy-this-D&p=6027&viewfull=1#post6027

[NightFlyer]

I'm curious as to what David thinks his own car is worth in today's market...

[RoyHinkley]

Josh, don't expect the "Guru" (as he calls himself) to chime in now. After downplaying the value of everyone else's cars how can he justify a high value for his own? And he gets upset that owners make our cars look bad to the general public and prospective buyers while doing the same thing himself. Guru my ass!
:vomit_3:

[kdumont]

Thanks guys. All-in-all, it reaffirms my decision to get it roadworthy and insured. That writeup on replacing the coolant is great. I will definitely check it out.

[Farrar]

Any chance you could store the car in a trusted spot, turn the plates in and save yourself the registration and insurance money until such time as you could afford to have a more active DeLorean life? ;-)

Anyway, congratulations, and good luck. :-)

[David T]

Any chance you could store the car in a trusted spot, turn the plates in and save yourself the registration and insurance money until such time as you could afford to have a more active DeLorean life? ;-)

Anyway, congratulations, and good luck. :-)

If a car is not roadworthy it reduces the price a lot. I base my estimates on what it would cost having the work done by a shop. There is a lot to be saved by doing your own work as long as you can do it competently. You can also save a lot of money on parts if you buy them carefully. Most shops charge full list on parts besides the labor. Spending $10K is easy on a non-runner and a whole lot more is very easy. As for my car, it is not for sale but if I was to sell it I would put a high price on it just because it is not for sale. Another factor which differentiates the value of my car is that it is a Concours winner twice. Because Concours winners do not come up for sale very often it is hard to place a value on them but it is more than what a Delorean in otherwise similar condition would bring. DMCH was asking over $50K for their "new builds". Using that as a guide what would you ask for a perfect Delorean that is original?

[RoyHinkley]

I'm curious as to what David thinks his own car is worth in today's market...

I knew he wouldn't answer the question, but rather find a way to dance around it.
:histerical1:

[NightFlyer]

More and better pics would allow me to do a more thorough assessment.

For an example of what I mean by a thorough assessment and good pictures:

http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.php?388-My-friend-wants-to-buy-this-D&p=6027&viewfull=1#post6027

For those who may be curious, the car that I performed the above assessment on was re-auctioned on eBay several times and was eventually sold for $18k, despite every single stainless panel with the exception of the passenger side door having some type of imperfection/damage on it. I personally thought that the selling price was high/strong, but the market appears to be up, as is confirmed by Hagerty's valuation/auction tracker. Even so, that was still abnormally strong money for that car. For the record, I had no connection with the ultimate purchaser of that car.

[NightFlyer]

If a car is not roadworthy it reduces the price a lot. I base my estimates on what it would cost having the work done by a shop. There is a lot to be saved by doing your own work as long as you can do it competently. You can also save a lot of money on parts if you buy them carefully. Most shops charge full list on parts besides the labor. Spending $10K is easy on a non-runner and a whole lot more is very easy. As for my car, it is not for sale but if I was to sell it I would put a high price on it just because it is not for sale. Another factor which differentiates the value of my car is that it is a Concours winner twice. Because Concours winners do not come up for sale very often it is hard to place a value on them but it is more than what a Delorean in otherwise similar condition would bring. DMCH was asking over $50K for their "new builds". Using that as a guide what would you ask for a perfect Delorean that is original?

I'll agree that a non-runner is going to command significantly less than a runner, but the car in question was reported as having been a running driver roughly 9 months ago, thus whatever is preventing it from currently running reliably probably isn't as severe of an issue as your number suggests, even at shop labor rates (unless the shop you would take it to would be a complete f you in the ass type of shop).

As far as the turbos go - it's a toss up. For some it's a premium that they're willing to pay a little extra for (very little extra). For others, it's something that they'll steer clear of and keep away from at all costs, as it suggests potential accelerated engine wear. Based on the very limited pictures that we have, it appears to be a pretty nice install of the Island kit (one of the better / nicer ones that I've seen from a purely aesthetic perspective), however the proof is in the pudding, and that can only be determined upon a long and thorough test drive.

David - I thought that your car is no longer original though, as you didn't you swap out the plastic header bottle, NCTs, plastic tanked radiator, air conditioning hoses/components, etc? Or is that only advice that you give to others to do? Too bad you didn't make it to DCS, as I would have loved to have compared cars :) Drove mine on all original equipment over 900 miles for the round trip to/from the show, and even drag raced it down the 1/4 mile on Thursday night at the show, as there are videos on YouTube of. No issues what-so-ever.

I received a cash on-the-spot offer on my car at DCS by a gentleman whom I didn't doubt had the means after he spent nearly 3 hours looking at it and talking to me about it, for $65k (the full Hagerty appraised value). Needless to say, that offer was rejected only because I don't want to sell my car.

[DMCVegas]

I appreciate the response. There was not much mileage on the existing tires, and they've been in a garage for ~15 years. They were oiled about once a year, but I would say it's at any buyer's discretion whether they replace them or not right away...

Unless it's a museum piece that is never intended to be really driven ever again in order to preserve a physical appearance in time, tire replacement isn't discretionary; It's an absolute must. At best the handling and stopping ability will be horrible as the rubber has hardened and is no longer as pliable. Worse is a blow out that can damage the fenders of a vehicle. Worst is a blowout that leads to a crash where people are hurt. So if you're selling, adding new tires may not increase the value so much as it stabilizes it by not giving a buyer a haggling point to lower the offer further. If you're keeping it, it's for your own safety.

It is an automatic which are usually a bit harder to sell. Though it's biggest redeeming factor is the Island Twin Turbo Kit which makes up for a lot in the performance department and is a great selling point. Island systems typically have two big downfalls with their turbos:


Not everyone treats ANY turbocharger gently. You have to warm-up the turbos and absolutely cool them off by idling the car for a minute or two after driving. That allows the engine oil to cool and flush the hotter oil out of the turbos. Otherwise the oil "cokes" and burns inside of the turbos and gums up the lubrication passages resulting in worn bearings.
Because of the unconventional design of the Island system, the turbo intakes are AFTER the butterflies on the throttle. Most turbo systems place them before. So when you quickly decellerate it can cause a vacuum condition on the Compressor side. Since turbos are not meant for that, it can result in blown seals on the units.


Now blown seals are not that big a deal. If you have this condition, you'll see a quick puff of smoke upon startup. It's from the oil accumulating inside of the turbo. It has nothing to do with the engine. But since most people don't realize that, they assume internal damage to the engine, and people then get scared of turbo cars. If I were you, check for that puff of smoke. If you have it, remove the units and send them off to be rebuilt. Also, you may want to remove the intake pipe on the compressor side to examine the impeller for wobble. If it wobbles, send it off to be rebuilt. And if everything is OK, great! But at least you'll have an idea of what's going on to provide an honest answer to a prospective buyer. Remember: Where there is doubt, there is the room to haggle.

If you do decide to sell, the best thing you can do is to know what kind of person you want to sell the car to. In this case it would be someone who is interested in a project delorean with more of a focus on mechanical work rather than cosmetic. You've got an Island Twin Turbo. Charles Muffley who sold the system passed away some time ago, and I don't even know if his widow, Gladys, is still with us. And if she is, what parts she has for sale, if any. So you've got a system with the coveted manifolds. I'd want to sell the car to someone with an eye on rebuilding that engine to extract even more power out of it. Things like lower-compression pistons from over in Europe to extract more power and boost, etc. Research what options you would have. If you sell, it's something to whet the buyer's appetite as to what they can do with this car. You can get them eager to buy. If you keep it, it's something YOU can do to enjoy it more!

Whatever decision you make, best of luck. But please, one thing: DO NOT USE A TARP! Tarps flap around and can damage the finish of a car. They also do not breath and will seal in moisture which can contribute to mold and rust.

[kdumont]

Whatever decision you make, best of luck. But please, one thing: DO NOT USE A TARP! Tarps flap around and can damage the finish of a car. They also do not breath and will seal in moisture which can contribute to mold and rust.

Ha, thanks. I certainly agree with this. I actually have a covered location to move it to now. There's also a ?custom? fit car cover over the exterior, so damaging the finish isn't as much of a concern. Still it's an hour away from where I live, so getting to it takes a day commitment.

As for the tires: agreed again. Still waiting until I have everything else sorted to get new tires.

Either way, I'm in no hurry to sell. I think that definitely gives me an advantage in price, especially in regards to having the turbo system. I'm surprised it's not as sought-after as I had originally would have believed. Although your points make sense, my grandfather worked in automobiles for much of his life, and if there's one thing he took care of, it was his car.. That being the case, I'm not worried about excessive engine wear. Also, the mileage is 15,382, not 20K as I said earlier.

At the very least, I need to get it running to take my girlfriend out in Boston, dressed to a tea, and valet park it. Once.. just once is all I need :P

[NightFlyer]

As for the tires: agreed again. Still waiting until I have everything else sorted to get new tires.

Either way, I'm in no hurry to sell. I think that definitely gives me an advantage in price, especially in regards to having the turbo system. I'm surprised it's not as sought-after as I had originally would have believed. Although your points make sense, my grandfather worked in automobiles for much of his life, and if there's one thing he took care of, it was his car.. That being the case, I'm not worried about excessive engine wear. Also, the mileage is 15,382, not 20K as I said earlier.

At the very least, I need to get it running to take my girlfriend out in Boston, dressed to a tea, and valet park it. Once.. just once is all I need :P

1) What tires are currently on the car? If they were kept away from ozone, ultraviolet and infrared, wild/rapid swings in temp/humidity, then its very possible that they're still good and fine to drive on without much worry. If they're the stock/OEM NCTs, then they're something that you'll want to preserve, as good example ones are coveted by concours owners. Case in point is that I just drove my car 900 miles round trip to DCS, drag raced it down the 1/4 mile where I spun the tires off the line, all on my original 33 year old well preserved NCTs. And I wouldn't hesitate to take my car to California and back tomorrow on those tires, if a concours or survivor event warranted such.

2) As to the turbo, and as previously stated, there's two very different trains of thoughts amongst buyers. Some will see it as an advantage and be willing to pay a small premium for it. However, as this is a non-factory after-market kit, it's also going to deter a lot of buyers. The biggest concerns come from whether the installation was done correctly and whether it was always run at a boost level that is safe for the stock engine internals.

3) I would never entrust my DeLorean to a valet, but that's your call. The biggest nightmare is that they'll engage the door locks when the door is open, which completely f's up the linkages. And that's just one of the potential nightmares....

[David T]

I'll agree that a non-runner is going to command significantly less than a runner, but the car in question was reported as having been a running driver roughly 9 months ago, thus whatever is preventing it from currently running reliably probably isn't as severe of an issue as your number suggests, even at shop labor rates (unless the shop you would take it to would be a complete f you in the ass type of shop).

As far as the turbos go - it's a toss up. For some it's a premium that they're willing to pay a little extra for (very little extra). For others, it's something that they'll steer clear of and keep away from at all costs, as it suggests potential accelerated engine wear. Based on the very limited pictures that we have, it appears to be a pretty nice install of the Island kit (one of the better / nicer ones that I've seen from a purely aesthetic perspective), however the proof is in the pudding, and that can only be determined upon a long and thorough test drive.

David - I thought that your car is no longer original though, as you didn't you swap out the plastic header bottle, NCTs, plastic tanked radiator, air conditioning hoses/components, etc? Or is that only advice that you give to others to do? Too bad you didn't make it to DCS, as I would have loved to have compared cars :) Drove mine on all original equipment over 900 miles for the round trip to/from the show, and even drag raced it down the 1/4 mile on Thursday night at the show, as there are videos on YouTube of. No issues what-so-ever.

I received a cash on-the-spot offer on my car at DCS by a gentleman whom I didn't doubt had the means after he spent nearly 3 hours looking at it and talking to me about it, for $65k (the full Hagerty appraised value). Needless to say, that offer was rejected only because I don't want to sell my car.


This discussion should probably be moved to another thread. My car is very original but I did make concessions so it can be a reliable driver (after being in Concours). I have all of the original parts that were removed so it would not take all that much to make it "original" again whatever that really means. For example I have a S/S header bottle, Fanzilla, Tankzilla, and Lockzilla currently installed. All of which can be reversed. From my point of view most people enjoy driving and being able to use their car without getting stranded. Very few want to own a museum piece and keep it in a glass case. To be able to use the car it needs some level of reliability and for that it needs some modernization. An extreme example is the struts. Most people would not put up with original struts that won't hold the doors up. What to do? The simple answer is to use non-original struts. Same for the tires. I would not recommend ANYONE drives at highway speeds on NCT's. It is not safe. Of course if originality is that important to you then leave the NCT's on but don't go fast. Not many people are willing to trade off in that manner. I could go on but this is the heart of the matter. You decide what is important to you and then all of the choices are clear. Cars were made to be driven and I drive mine and I advise others to drive theirs safely and reliably. Deloreans that get driven get seen by the public and it enhances the public image. Non-runners and garage queens only enhance the image of a failed enterprise (DMC) and a cr-ppy car.

[dmc6960]

At the very least, I need to get it running to take my girlfriend out in Boston, dressed to a tea, and valet park it. Once.. just once is all I need :P

Be careful here. One of two things will happen...

1) The car will perform beautifully and it will be such an incredible experience, you'll never want to sell the car (at least for a long while).

2) The car gives you major problems, leading to a fight with your girlfriend, a ruined night; which will result in you immediately selling the car, and still possibly having irreparable damage with your gf.

The choice is yours. :umm:

[kdumont]

Be careful here. One of two things will happen...

1) The car will perform beautifully and it will be such an incredible experience, you'll never want to sell the car (at least for a long while).

2) The car gives you major problems, leading to a fight with your girlfriend, a ruined night; which will result in you immediately selling the car, and still possibly having irreparable damage with your gf.

The choice is yours. :umm:

I choose #1, ha

[Dangermouse]

be careful here. One of two things will happen...

1) the car will perform beautifully and it will be such an incredible experience, you'll never want to sell the car (at least for a long while).

2) the car gives you major problems, leading to a fight with your girlfriend, a ruined night; which will result in you immediately selling the car, and still possibly having irreparable damage with your gf.

The choice is the delorean's. :umm:

eft

[Rich]

...... I could go on but this is the heart of the matter. You decide what is important to you and then all of the choices are clear. Cars were made to be driven and I drive mine and I advise others to drive theirs safely and reliably. Deloreans that get driven get seen by the public and it enhances the public image. Non-runners and garage queens only enhance the image of a failed enterprise (DMC) and a cr-ppy car.

+1

Get the car to a safe and reliable state, get it to some level of cosmetic beauty you can live with, then go out on the road. The second part is optional and the first part isn't.

Tires, brakes, suspension, fuel system integrity and lighting are all top priorities for any car on the road, including this one.

When it's ready then show some stainless and have a good (safe) time with it. Even if you sell it a safe, reliable car is certainly more valuable than one that isn't.