Torque Specs

[alexwolf1216]

Where can I find the torque specs for nuts/bolts and enlarged diagrams of how to put stuff back together? Ive been cheating thus far and using the DMC website, but I think I need larger copies. Is all this in the tech manual?

[Rich]

Yes, look in the workshop manual. Diagrams for sure.

The torque/fastener tables are in A:03:01.


Hardcopy manual is for sale, I think. I forgot which vendor sold me mine.

Or look in this forum's Resources section for one of more threads with pdf's of the manual. Some of the pdfs are from scans and other pdfs look cleaner.



Not to be confused with the smaller DMC Tech Info Manual, also from the factory, which has some of the info but not enough to put a car together with. It deals mainly with system specs, design and operation, so it is also a good reference and has decent troubleshooting guides. DMCH sells it.

[jwrayth]

I keep this link (http://deloreantech.wikia.com/wiki/Torque_specifications) bookmarked on my phone for quick torque reference if I'm out in the garage.

[David T]

Actually the best torque chart is the revised one in the Service Bulletins. ST-09-7/81 and even that one does not have the spec for ALL the bolts.

[NightFlyer]

I use what Bill Robertson refers to as 'the calibrated elbow.' If you're removing the fastener, then you should have a pretty good idea of how tight it needs to be upon re-installation. RARELY do I ever pull out my torque wrench.

[Nicholas R]

Technically the torque on a bolt is always based on the material and grade of the fastener, and whether the joint is lubricated or dry. For instance the proof load on a lubricated class 4.6 M6 bolt is reached at ~2.5 ftlbs where a dry class 10.9 M6 is proof loaded at ~11ftlbs.

EDIT: The torque is also based on what you're clamping against, ie. rubber bushings vs metal brackets; however assuming only clamping against metal, it comes down the the class, material, and lubrication.

Having the right grade bolts is just as important as having them properly torqued. If you use a bolt that is too low grade, it may be easily overtorqued and increase its potential for breaking or shearing. If you use a bolt that is too high grade, the torque may be too low, preventing you from getting the proper bolt stretch and therefore will have greater potential for vibrating loose. That being said, its much better to have a higher grade bolt than a lower grade bolt.

[David T]

I use what Bill Robertson refers to as 'the calibrated elbow.' If you're removing the fastener, then you should have a pretty good idea of how tight it needs to be upon re-installation. RARELY do I ever pull out my torque wrench.

That calibrated elbow is right up there alongside the calibrated eyeball. Today there is no excuse not to have the right tools and do it the right way. Especially when torquing a steel bolt into an aluminum casting. I suggest you get the torque wrench calibrated (it will also stay calibrated much longer than your elbow!) and use it more often. Especially on critical fasteners. For instance the difference between the proper torque and what it takes to crush the spacers on the TABS is so close your calibrated elbow just isn't good enough.

[Nicholas R]

For instance the difference between the proper torque and what it takes to crush the spacers on the TABS is so close your calibrated elbow just isn't good enough.

Actually they're pretty different. The TABs only require something like 55ftlbs because you're tightening a nylock nut that is compressing a rubber bushing. To crush the spacer is going to take significantly more torque than that. That being said, if you didn't read that the torque on those specific bolts was only 55ftlbs (which is low for a 10.9 or 12.9 grade M12 and won't really proof load it) you would almost always assume it's higher than 55ftlbs.

[David T]

Actually they're pretty different. The TABs only require something like 55ftlbs because you're tightening a nylock nut that is compressing a rubber bushing. To crush the spacer is going to take significantly more torque than that. That being said, if you didn't read that the torque on those specific bolts was only 55ftlbs (which is low for a 10.9 or 12.9 grade M12 and won't really proof load it) you would almost always assume it's higher than 55ftlbs.

You are correct, that torque value IS low. Primarily because much more than that WILL crush the metal sleeve (spacer) in the rubber bushing. That sleeve is just a piece of sheet metal rolled up into a cylinder and once you crush it you cannot torque the TAB at all.