Fuse block replacement

[Bitsyncmaster]

I think its time I did mine. So who's is better? DMCH or Hervey's. I do want contacts with much tighter force on the fuse pins.

Normally I would just find new pins and replace mine but there has been a little heating on my fuel pump fuse and not sure if the contact locking in the block would work anymore.

I also plan to solder after I crimp. There's going to be a lot of sanding of the copper wire ends so this is going to take a long time.

[jawn101]

I think its time I did mine. So who's is better? DMCH or Hervey's. I do want contacts with much tighter force on the fuse pins.

Normally I would just find new pins and replace mine but there has been a little heating on my fuel pump fuse and not sure if the contact locking in the block would work anymore.

I also plan to solder after I crimp. There's going to be a lot of sanding of the copper wire ends so this is going to take a long time.

I did mine not too long ago. I cut the terminals off, sanded the wire, crimped the new terminals (even bought the correct barrel crimping tool) and soldered each and every one. I also used heat-shrink tubing. It took me about 16 hours total (2 8-hour evenings) because of the cramped workspace and having to take breaks every so often from breathing too much solder :)

I used the DMCH box because I liked that it was the original size and would fit properly in the small space. Hervey's box is a little larger and oriented differently. My only knowledge of the box itself is from what he tells me, which is that it's much thicker material. I felt like the Houston box and terminals were quite nice - the fuses are very tightly gripped. I actually have to use a puller to get them out.

Some before and after pics below...

Before: melted and mangled (not to mention half the fuses are the wrong rating... arg!)
3099

After: neat and clean
3098
3100

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks. I was leaning toward DMCH anyway so I just placed the order.

I'll let you know what I think when I install it.

[outatym2001]

The words I added to the two photos say it all.
Clean the metal female terminals or replace with new ones that come with the new Fuse Box part number 106913.
If you don’t clean the contacts you may have a partial meltdown of your original Fuse Box like what happened to me.
You will need the crimp tool like in the photo to attach this type of terminal.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The schematic shows fuse 13 and fuse 16 going to the AT controller. Are these both not needed in a manual shift car?

[jawn101]

The schematic shows fuse 13 and fuse 16 going to the AT controller. Are these both not needed in a manual shift car?

My early VIN 81 M/T does have wires and a fuse in position 13.. But not 18.

[DMC5180]

Somewhere along production Fuse 18 was used. I don't recall if it was super early or late. The fact that the Fuse Box cover has the (brake light) name molded into, would seem to indicate it was intended to be used from the start. If the your 18 position is empty then you have an inline fuse located in the main harness (left side of Center Console Armrest I think) I've seen an inline fuse there but can't confirm 100% that's the one.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Somewhere along production Fuse 18 was used. I don't recall if it was super early or late. The fact that the Fuse Box cover has the (brake light) name molded into, would seem to indicate it was intended to be used from the start. If the your 18 position is empty then you have an inline fuse located in the main harness (left side of Center Console Armrest I think) I've seen an inline fuse there but can't confirm 100% that's the one.

That's the one on my car. When I blew the brake light fuse I went nuts finding the problem. I think the original was an 11 amp fuse. Now it's a 5 amp with my LED brake lights.

[Domi]

I bought mine from Ed Uding (dmch) because it was the same design as the original and thought it will be quite easier to do the job.
You can see a few pictures into my album is you want:
http://dmctalk.org/album.php?albumid=49

[GS450-Junkie]

If you buy an original equipment piece from Houston...won't it have the same failures eventually as the old ones that melted ? If I recall... they didn't improve them, they are NOS.

[jawn101]

If you buy an original equipment piece from Houston...won't it have the same failures eventually as the old ones that melted ? If I recall... they didn't improve them, they are NOS.

They are improved - the design of the plastic box itself is the same to keep with the fit/finish/design of the compartment, but the plastic wasn't entirely at fault for the melting - it was mainly due to the poor quality terminals. Those have been replaced with vastly superior equipment. None of it is NOS, though it looks it.

[DMC5180]

+1

I changed mine several years ago AND replaced all the fuses with NEW Smart-glow ones. It's nice and cool now. My replacement fuse box was a NOS (take off) from a main harness back then. They have since been reproduced. The new improved terminals make all the difference.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Here is the final result. I need to find that foam that goes on the left side and put some nylon edging on the bracket so the wires don't chafe.

[sean]

Here is the final result. .

WOW! :shocked: Great job Dave.

[DMC5180]

Great job Dave,

That's another one of the jobs on my to do list. Clean up that The Rats Nest.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I didn't have the nylon edging for the thin metal bracket but did have a lot of really thick silicone hose I had used for the heat valve.

Works great for the edging, just slit it with a sharp exacto. And put some over my blower circuit breaker so if I drop a tool or flashlight it won't short out anything.

[sean]

I didn't have the nylon edging for the thin metal bracket but did have a lot of really thick silicone hose I had used for the heat valve.

Great use of the hose Dave! I like the idea of using to cover the breaker posts.

[Morpheus]

Here is the final result. I need to find that foam that goes on the left side and put some nylon edging on the bracket so the wires don't chafe.

Wow. Great job!

[1Mcfly4u]

Here is the final result. I need to find that foam that goes on the left side and put some nylon edging on the bracket so the wires don't chafe.

That is beautiful work! Kudos x infinity!

[Bitsyncmaster]

I used two layers of a foam sold for the bottom edge of a garage door. I see DMC used the thick foam to keep the cover off the green rear window relay. So the cover is back on and thinking what I should do with that foam between the covers. The foam still looks good but the black cover is all broken up.

Also thinking about pulling the center console to install my lighter LED board since the seat is out. While your in there strikes again.:frantic: