PDA

View Full Version : Frame & Body Stainless sanding method



Denverdelorean
07-30-2014, 06:36 PM
Has anyone had to remove swirl marks from an angle grinder on any of their stainless panels? I have a few on my front left fender and hand sanding is slow going. I tried a DA electric sander, but it just seems to heat up the steel without removing much material.

Any suggestions so I can remove the deep scratches in prep to finish sand and re-grain?

Nicholas R
07-30-2014, 07:03 PM
Flap wheels and dynabrade wheels are about the only 2 power tools you want anywhere near your stainless.

SIMid
07-30-2014, 09:28 PM
I tried a DA electric sander

:mallet: Reminds me of Concerto there.

Have you tried 80 Grit with a sanding block?

David T
07-30-2014, 09:55 PM
:mallet: Reminds me of Concerto there.

Have you tried 80 Grit with a sanding block?

That works but only on surfaces that are flat. The flapwheels will work even where the metal is shaped. When you get good enough you use the 80 # with your hands, no sanding block.

jawn101
07-30-2014, 10:49 PM
Ouch, electric sander on the stainless. I'm cringing at the very thought....

Denverdelorean
07-31-2014, 01:52 PM
Ouch, electric sander on the stainless. I'm cringing at the very thought....



Believe me, it's making positive progress. What was there was abysmal. if it weren't a LFF i would have chucked it and replaced it. I still may. I would just like to remove material faster to level out these scratches.

David T
07-31-2014, 03:58 PM
Believe me, it's making positive progress. What was there was abysmal. if it weren't a LFF i would have chucked it and replaced it. I still may. I would just like to remove material faster to level out these scratches.

What you are doing with the 80# is making new scratches. Just try to make them parallel to the ground. Use masking tape if you have to as a guide so you can stay straight. Doing it by hand takes a lot longer but conversely if you use a power tool and make a mistake you can do a lot of damage in a hurry! I say you learn how to do it by hand and then graduate up to a power tool. Gives you a better appreciation of how to do the job. Take your time and do one panel at a time. Protect the rubber, glass, and facias with duct tape. Use even pressure and on the return stoke stay straight. Use a light pressure on the hood so you do not get the dreaded X.

Rich W
07-31-2014, 05:25 PM
Any suggestions so I can remove the deep scratches in prep to finish sand and re-grain?

Depending upon how deep the scratches are in the panel, you may need to get a little more aggressive with sandpaper grit.

For really deep DA sander cross-scratches, you may need to try #60 grit paper (or use a #60 grit sanding belt, with a block or by hand).

This is probably the easiest and least expensive "next level" to try. I have seen Chris N. "carefully" use #30 and #40 discs (3M Brand),
along with various types of sanding belts on a Dyna-Cushion wheel (sometimes you need to polish out deep scratches, then start over).