Rear end cover removal from manual tranny

[Henrik]

I have my manual transmission out and I have been advised to make sure that a large nut (don't know what it looks like yet since I haven't opened it up yet) is properly torqued. This nut is supposed to be located under the end cover (the cover at the very back of the tranny - see picture).

Questions:
1) What can I expect when I open the end cover? Anything falling out?
2) Which nut is it that I should torque? (I can't identify it in the Workshop Manual.) What is the correct torque?
2) Per the attached Workshop Manual page F:06:01, step 3 talks about removing the "5th speed detent" (i.e. screw, spring and ball) before I take off the end cover. Now, that screw (circled in red) is on there and won't come off. Is it at all necessary to remove the "5th speed detent" before removing the end cover?
2929029291
Thanks,

[DMCMW Dave]

I have my manual transmission out and I have been advised to make sure that a large nut (don't know what it looks like yet since I haven't opened it up yet) is properly torqued. This nut is supposed to be located under the end cover (the cover at the very back of the tranny - see picture).

Questions:
1) What can I expect when I open the end cover? Anything falling out?
2) Which nut is it that I should torque? (I can't identify it in the Workshop Manual.) What is the correct torque?
2) Per the attached Workshop Manual page F:06:01, step 3 talks about removing the "5th speed detent" (i.e. screw, spring and ball) before I take off the end cover. Now, that screw (circled in red) is on there and won't come off. Is it at all necessary to remove the "5th speed detent" before removing the end cover?
2929029291
Thanks,

1. Just the oil if you didn't drain it first

2. There are two of them. #12 and #42 on this page. http://store.delorean.com/c-288-4-1-2-gears.aspx They are also shown in the manual on page f:05:02. On figure 11 of the following page they are shown as already removed. Torque is in the manual as well - 90-112.5 fl-lb but go on the high side and use Loctite. The manual also mentions putting it in two gears at the same time to lock the trans so you can get to that torque.

2? (again) You can get the cover off without removing that screw, but it's harder to get off later and you will need to remove it to put it back together. There is also a chance the ball will fall out and roll under your un-movable tool box. Here's a hint - heat it up slightly with a small torch/heat gun to soften the adhesive they used. Use a hammer and screwdriver as a punch to rotate the screw. Once it cracks loose it will come out with your fingers.

[Henrik]

As always, Dave, thank you so much for your quick and thorough reply. Everyone in this community owe you tons! (It's scary when a guy who doesn't even know what comes after 2 is about to tear into a gearbox:dunno:)

[jawn101]

Henrik -

It looks like this :)

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29302&d=1406774777

If memory serves, it's the one on the right that has a habit of walking off.

[Henrik]

Henrik -

It looks like this :)



Excellent - thanks Jon!

[Nicholas R]

The right shaft is indeed the output shaft. Keep in mind that the shaft has a flat on it where the lip of the nut needs to be indented; it's another form of locknut. If you turn the nut, you'll need to re-indent the nut. The nut may also read a little higher torque than actual if you're turning the nut with the nut already indented.

[Henrik]

OK, it’s time to get to work on this to make sure the output shaft nut(s) is (are) safe and secure. Referencing Jon’s picture a few posts above:

1) Both of my shaft nuts (ok, you know what I mean) seem to be securely in place and they are indeed properly staked onto the shaft flats with no signs of loosening. Should I check the nuts regardless or do you only check them if there are signs that they have backed off in any way?

2) If I understand everyone correctly, it's the one on the right (PN 103076) that may come off so if I need to check anything, that would be the important one and I can probably leave the one on the left alone. Correct?

3) The nut on the right (103076) is indeed available at delorean.com. Is a new one required like the manual says or can it be re-used?

4)The associated spring washer PN 103075 is not available at delorean.com. Is that an issue? Can it be re-used?


The manual also mentions putting it in two gears at the same time to lock the trans so you can get to that torque.
5)How do you do that? I have the gearbox out of the car with the face of the bell housing sitting on a pallet with the final drive pointed straight up.

[opethmike]

Just pull two gear selectors at the same time. Don't forget to push them back in afterward.

[DMCMW Dave]

1) Both of my shaft nuts (ok, you know what I mean) seem to be securely in place and they are indeed properly staked onto the shaft flats with no signs of loosening. Should I check the nuts regardless or do you only check them if there are signs that they have backed off in any way?

2) If I understand everyone correctly, it's the one on the right (PN 103076) that may come off so if I need to check anything, that would be the important one and I can probably leave the one on the left alone. Correct?

3) The nut on the right (103076) is indeed available at delorean.com. Is a new one required like the manual says or can it be re-used?

4)The associated spring washer PN 103075 is not available at delorean.com. Is that an issue? Can it be re-used?


5)How do you do that? I have the gearbox out of the car with the face of the bell housing sitting on a pallet with the final drive pointed straight up.


5A Just pull two gear selectors at the same time. Don't forget to push them back in afterward.

1 They look good. If it were my car I'd take them off and reinstall with locktite anyway. But chances are if they have not come loose by now, they won't. Your call.

2 Yes but I'd do both if I was doing one.

3 Re use unless the staked (bent) part breaks off.

4 Use it over.

5 Mikes answer is correct. You can see the sliders at the top of your picture, just rotate the gaiter out of the way and then you can slide two of them in to gear. This will lock the trans so you can loosen and tighten things. Be sure to get everything back in neutral before you put the cover on or you'll have a very rude first clutch engagement.

[Henrik]

Excellent! Thanks Mike and Dave!

[Henrik]

You can see the sliders at the top of your picture, just rotate the gaiter out of the way and then you can slide two of them in to gear. This will lock the trans so you can loosen and tighten things.

I looked at this over the weekend and I still don't get it. :dunno: Referring my tranny pic below:
The sliders - are those that I have tagged #1 - #3?
The gaiter - is that the part that I have tagged as #4?

Given that Dave said to rotate the gaiter out of the way, I didn't see how it could be rotated so I removed snap ring (#5) and with it removed, the gaiter is still interlocked with the sliders. And once I manage to remove/rotate the gaiter out of the way, two of the sliders should be pushed/pulled (vertically) simultaneously? Which of the sliders?

I just need a wee bit more guidance.....

Thanks,
30933

[opethmike]

The gaiter, #4, should just swing freely side to side.

[Nicholas R]

The gaiter, #4, should just swing freely side to side.

It should literally rotate all the way around if all of the sliders are in neutral.

[DMCMW Dave]

It should literally rotate all the way around if all of the sliders are in neutral.

In his original picture it's in a gear. All the sliders should be in neutral (so you can rotate the gaiter). Then one at a time, move the two of the sliders. They do not move easily, I typically pry with a screwdriver to get them to pop outwards, and tap them back in place with a small hammer. It is easy to overshoot through neutral into the opposite gear (i.e. go from second to first).

[Nicholas R]

I just noticed that. The slider between 2 and 1 is in gear and is holding the gaiter in place. You need to pull it out one click so that it is even with the other sliders.

[Henrik]

Thanks Dave, Mike and Nicholas!