Door locks won't open - are they just shot?

[TTait]

The door locks on my wifes 81 have been a pain in the butt since we got the car. I'm not sure if they just need to be replaced (which sucks, because cash is tight).

I usually just run the car with no lock module, but I do have a lockzilla that I use from time to time if things seem to be adjusted well. I have Tobys actuators installed instead of the oem solenoids. Then things just go to hell some months later.

:mallet:

So, I have the adjustment instructions in the shop manual, but my question at this point is - How do I know if the locks are seviceable? I assume I disconnect both rods to each lock, pull gently on the unlock rod, then pull the release rod?

Is there an alternate procedure to adjust the locks and latches? or just whats in the manual. I'm happy to start from scratch?

If I can get things adjusted properly again, what it the test procedure for the bell crank electrical contacts?

[sdg3205]

The door locks on my wifes 81 have been a pain in the butt since we got the car. I'm not sure if they just need to be replaced (which sucks, because cash is tight).

I usually just run the car with no lock module, but I do have a lockzilla that I use from time to time if things seem to be adjusted well. I have Tobys actuators installed instead of the oem solenoids. Then things just go to hell some months later.

:mallet:

So, I have the adjustment instructions in the shop manual, but my question at this point is - How do I know if the locks are seviceable? I assume I disconnect both rods to each lock, pull gently on the unlock rod, then pull the release rod?

Is there an alternate procedure to adjust the locks and latches? or just whats in the manual. I'm happy to start from scratch?

If I can get things adjusted properly again, what it the test procedure for the bell crank electrical contacts?

Do you still have the instructions that came with the actuators? I remember Toby includes some information about adjusting during installation that is pretty important.

My locks and doors were hell. One wouldn't unlock, one wouldn't unlock itself, only the other door etc etc and one door would jam. I went back, re-read Toby's instructions and followed the lock and latch procedure to the letter and my doors and locks have been flawless for months.

[TTait]

I'll call him in the AM... Good idea.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I tried using Toby's actuators and the LockZilla and one lock would be marginal. The LockZilla has a shorter pulse then the OEM door lock unit.

Add another big capacitor to the already big capacitors in your Zilla unit to fix it.

[TTait]

I've discovered the base problem I have is that the latches/locks are really gummed up with grease and grit. I think there was residual latch pressure on the lock mechanism just from internal stickiness.

I removed and flushed the passenger units and reinstalled them and they work great (everything needed readjustment). This afternoon I need to shimmy through and get the drivers door unstuck and then redo it...

Thanks for the tip on the capacitors, another item for the to-do list!

[TTait]

That was the main problem - Three of four latches were really gummed up and jammed full of yellowed white lithium grease and gritty grime.

To get the drivers door open I had to unhook the linkages - jiggle the release rod for a while to get the spring to pull all the way back, lock the latch, unlock the latch, then pull the release rod to try to open it (and repeat). I flushed out the locks and cleaned them up and adjusted everything again per the manual and they seem to be working perfectly.