Passenger Window

[SoCalDMC12]

Greetings Folks,

The other day I noticed this piece of material poking out of my passenger-side toll window. I'm guessing that it is is used to protect the glass as it slides up/down? If so, is it necessary to open up the door panel and glue it back into place, or can I just pull it off?

Thanks!

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[Rich_NYS]

You might be able to glue it back in place with the window down. Mine started coming off last week and I was able to push it back into place without taking the panel off, but not sure how well I could do a good permanent fix.

FWIW, removing the panel is no biggie depending on the condition of the panel & fasteners.

[TTait]

You can easily scratch up the glass if you don't deal with this. If you MUST raise or lower the window, do it with someone in the passenger seat, door closed, with the passenger lightly pushing outwards on the top edge of the glass to keep it from rubbing on the steel inside the door. If you don't move the mirror up or down there is no rush, so you have some time to get supplies together.

Take a trip to a sewing store and get some 1.5" or 2" wide velcro loop material (soft/fuzzy), about 30" long. You will also need some small cable ties, some 3M double sided VHB tape, WD40, simple green or similar, two large flat bladed screwdrivers and a phillips driver. Once you have everything together you can do the job in about half an hour.

With a helper pushing lightly on the top of the glass per above, lower the window all the way down.

From outside the car gently and carefully put a screwdriver under edge of the upper trim panel and lift slightly until you can figure out where the center fir tree fastener is in the panel. Be aware that the upper panel is often made of fiberboard and may already be damaged, so be careful not to split the fiberboard or vinyl. Take your time.

Carefully get one screwdriver blade on each side of the fir tree fastener at center as close to the fir tree as you can, and slowly and gently pry up working it out of the hole. once its partially out you may need to repeat with the fir trees forward and aft of the center one. Keep working gently to lift the panel straight up (with door closed). At the aft side of the panel there is a hook on the backside of the trim panel that hooks into the door to help keep it down. Disengage that carefully and the trim panel will come free.

Now you will see a black metal frame inside the door near the top which is screwed into the door at about a half dozen places with phillips screws (or perhaps bolts if someone has been in there before). Before removing the metal frame use a marker to show where the glass sits when it is fully up by transferring lines from the tolbooth window frame straight down onto this black metal frame. This is the minimum area that will need to be covered to prevent scratching. Once marked, remove the metal frame from the door and take it to a work area.

On the upper edge of the frame you will likely find a c shaped piece of rubber trim about as long as the area you marked on the frame. There may be shreds of the old cloth still attached to it.

Strip off the old cloth and use WD40 to clean off any adhesive residue on the rubber or frame. Leave the Rubber C channel in lace. If you want to remove it mark its location first so you can put if back on in the proper place. Once all sticky adhesive etc is removed with WD50 then use a general purpose cleaner to get all the WD40 residue off the rubber and metal.

Put the rubber C channel back on if you removed it. Take your soft loop velcro (not the nylon hook side) and cut it several inches longer than the rubber C channel. You will use cable ties to wrap around the velcro and frame outside the area you marked where the glass will touch the frame, going forward and aft of the rubber channel to help keep it in place and 3M VHB double stick tape to hold the velcro in place along its entire length. The velcro will wrap well around the frame and completely cover the rubber c channel. Cable ties only in areas where the glass can't rub against it.

Once you have the velcro attached, fuzzy side out, reinstall the repaired metal frame. Primarily use the fasteners at the front and rear of the frame at first, not tightening the ones near the center at first. With the door closed slowly run the glass up and down and make sure noting is snagging, and that the glass is only touching soft velcro, not metal, VHB tape or cable ties. then tighten all screws and cycle the window again.

Reinstall the upper door trim, taking care to get the hook at the rear of the trim in the door properly. and reset the door panel into the door. Try to get all of the fir trees started in their holes a little before pushing any of them in all the way. Watch from outside the car and work with the window open and door closed.

For a few dollars in materials you have just saved yourself the cost and trouble of replacing scratched up glass. The repair should hold for many years.

[DMCMW Dave]

---, some 3M double sided VHB tape, --
For a few dollars in materials you have just saved yourself the cost and trouble of replacing scratched up glass. The repair should hold for many years.

3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive works well in place of the VHB tape.

It's also a good idea to check for the Velcro that's glued to the door skin on the other side of the dropping glass. It is often missing as well and that can also cause scratching of the glass on the outside.

This is slightly harder to replace as the glass is in the way.

[SS Spoiler]

Excellant post! this is what DMCTALK is all about, each of us helping each other out, sharing knowledge.


Paul Cerny #2691
Kalispell, MT

[SoCalDMC12]

WOW... Thanks folks. Sounds like a necessary repair, but not too difficult. Thanks for the great write up TTait!

[TTait]

No worries, but to Dave's point, when pressing out slightly on the glass make sure you are not scratching the outside of the glass.

It is nice when a repair is relatively easy and straightforward - huh?

[SoCalDMC12]

Howdy Folks... just posting an update:

I finally had time to work on my window. For those who may be intimidated by DIY projects, following the directions above made it pretty easy. Some additional notes:

- In addition to the 6 screws that hold the black frame to the door, there are two screws that are a little hidden (close to the A and C pillars) that need to be removed in order to remove the frame. Also, there are two brackets that hold some wires to the frame... these wires need to be removed as well. (None if this is a big deal, but I work in a poorly lit garage, so it was difficult to see these things.)

- For newbies: It might seem like everything inside the door wants to draw blood from you... so be careful... unfinished stainless steel edges can get ya.

- Using two screwdrivers to pry out the fir tree fasteners is a very good idea if you want to preserve your door panels –*don't take the brute force short cut.

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