Houston master cylinder..

[painterdave72]

anyone have one of these from about a year ago?? mine seems to be not that great of a pedal even after bleeding it multiple times. .I realize these will never be like a newer car but i think it should be better than this..i also replaced some of the hard lines when i did it last year and my calipers are all rebuilt within the last few years.. the pedal seems like it needs an inch or more of travel before it starts to stop then just seems to have alot of fade.. my pads are also about a year old and are the ceramic ones.. i am thinking of finding a rebuild kit for my girling master and just using that again.. any suggestions would be awesome!!! Dave.

[chris williams]

Have you changed the flexi lines to S/Steel ones are are yours still 30 year old rubber?
Chris

[painterdave72]

they are new stainless braided ones..

[Rich]

anyone have one of these from about a year ago?? mine seems to be not that great of a pedal even after bleeding it multiple times.

Do you mean that the pedal feel is soft but the pedal does not keep moving after you apply a certain amount of pressure? That would be from air in the system.

To get all of the air out the system needs to be bled in proper wheel order with zero chance of back-leaking air past the bleed nipples at all times. And with the fluid supply always where you can see it in the reservoir.

Am unaware of any way that a master cylinder from any supplier could create a soft-pedal condition aside from leakage (in which case the pedal keeps moving under constant pressure). And my DMCH master from 2012 or 2013 works as well as my original master did in terms of pedal feel. No change at all.

[EdR5150]

Reminder: The rod comes out of the brake booster is adjustable. Before adjustment, I had a lot of travel in my pedal before the actual braking began.

[dmruschell]

anyone have one of these from about a year ago?? mine seems to be not that great of a pedal even after bleeding it multiple times. .I realize these will never be like a newer car but i think it should be better than this..i also replaced some of the hard lines when i did it last year and my calipers are all rebuilt within the last few years.. the pedal seems like it needs an inch or more of travel before it starts to stop then just seems to have alot of fade.. my pads are also about a year old and are the ceramic ones.. i am thinking of finding a rebuild kit for my girling master and just using that again.. any suggestions would be awesome!!! Dave.

Check the length of the rod that goes into the back of the master cylinder. According to our local DeLorean expert that we ask for advice and who hosts tech days, the rod should just touch master cylinder when it's installed. I just replaced the master cylinder in 3196 trying to chase down a similar issue. It's better, but I'm not 100% convinced it's fixed (though no calipers are leaking, it has all new pads, the system has been bled many many times, and the oldest anything is on the car is 2008). I'm not going to hijack the thread (so please don't try to diagnose my issue, I just want to compare notes), but the pedal on 3196 seems to need more travel than 5786. When it starts braking, it feels fine, but increasing the braking effort becomes more difficult. For example, when coming to a stop sign, the initial push of the pedal is fine, but if you then decide you want to stop 5 feet before the sign, increasing the stopping power of the car requires more effort and pedal travel than I think it should. I don't think the car is unsafe, though, just a little difficult. Is this at all like the symptoms you're experiencing?

The master cylinder in 5786 was replaced almost 2 years ago with a DMCH unit and that car stops amazingly well.

Where are you located?

[painterdave72]

Hi i was out of town actually visiting my parents in maryland near jarettsville...yes the pedal seems to need alot of push to start stopping then stops well enough but i think it should be alot better than it is...