transmission removal

[Ratrace427]

I cant get this dang thing out! I think the bell housing is stuck to the block. I have never experienced anything like this. It seems like there is a bolt still holding it somewhere. I have removed a total of four bell housing bolts. Is there another hiding somewhere? I have been prying and lifting the transmission up and down, trying all positions with no movement away from the engine. This is the first time for me and i thought i was doing a great job. There are alot of things that must be done to get this thing out but you should see some movement from the engine block if the two side mounts are out and the bell housing bolts out. The thought of getting the engine and transmission perfect to allow the input shaft to slide out of the clutch disc might be the issue. What is the trick? Split the transmission from the bell housing?

[Soundkillr]

Dumb question but have you pulled the starter out?

[Ratrace427]

yes the starter is out. I just came back in from yanking on it with some new ideas but they all failed. Im calling it a day. I might have to call the experts in Texas on Monday. Anyways thats how high my frustration is at this point but i bet we will come up with something.

Thanks
John

[DMCMW Dave]

Did you take off the two metal panels (one underneath, one behind the catalytic converter). They bolt to the bellhousing and catch on the flywheel.

Other than that there are only 4 bolts and two guide pins. Sometimes the guidepins can be sticky.

Also the starter has to be out.

[Ratrace427]

yes both those panels are removed and the transmission hasnt moved to catch on those anyhow. Im thinking the guide pins or maybe the input shaft in the clutch. I have never heard of a rusty input shaft...I did just drive this car after all. I was thinking about hooking the slave cylinder back up and having someone hold the clutch pedal down while prying. IDK seems to complicated. It has to be those guide pins......:hmm: So only four bolts? I keep thinking i missed one. Maybe put the bell bolts back in a few threads and hit the heads of them while someone else pries. Now its a two man job and i only have me. I need to find a better pry spot! IDK the whole engine is moving from the pry bar already.

[Ratrace427]

I need a different pry bar. I am putting most of my force sideways and not forward. I can get one of those cheap 90 degree Stanley nail pullers from walmart. maybe that will open up new pry locations that will get this sucker out.

[David T]

You also have to support the motor as you remove the transaxle. They can get stuck but with the right amount of prying force applied correctly it should separate. Yes, there are TWO hollow pins that hold the motor and transaxle in alignment.

[DMC5180]

You also have to support the motor as you remove the transaxle. They can get stuck but with the right amount of prying force applied correctly it should separate. Yes, there are TWO hollow pins that hold the motor and transaxle in alignment.

+1

also do you have any kind of gap between the bell housing and engine? Some photos would help here so we see what your dealing with.

[jamesrguk]

Does the 5speed still have flex plate bolts which you access through the removal of the starter motor? Or is that just automatics?

J

[David T]

Does the 5speed still have flex plate bolts which you access through the removal of the starter motor? Or is that just automatics?

J

What you are referring to is only on the automatics.

[Ratrace427]

i just needed a different pry bar and someone to give it a jiggle. It came right out. The rear main is leaking because the housing bolts are not tight. I got the gasket, seal and bearing in. I just came in for lunch and to look up torque of the bolts. Oh yeah and to show you guys this piece of junk.

30742

The P.O. said he was doing burn outs. LOL I just thought to my self "whatever, you just want to sell the car". Maybe he really was; by doing clutch drops. IDK maybe lots of city driving. Maybe my car is way over 60,000 miles. IDK but i have never seen one like that. Its into the rivets ! Got to get the fly wheel turned.

[DMC5180]

If the flywheel looks like the pressure plate you need to get it resurfaced. It is recommended that you do that anytime you are replacing the clutch anyway.

[David T]

If the flywheel looks like the pressure plate you need to get it resurfaced. It is recommended that you do that anytime you are replacing the clutch anyway.

With the clutch looking like that and the PO mentioning abuse, I would split the transaxle and inspect the roll pins and reset the backlash in the final drive. Not all that big of a job once the transaxle is out. Inspect the slave cylinder and if the fluid is dark check the bore for pitting. Now is the time to replace it AND the master if necessary. If you still have the plastic hose, it should also be replaced. Closely inspect the mounts, with abuse the left, front may be cracked. Consider repacking the C/V joints especially if the boots are cracking or torn. When reinstalling be sure you have both hollow pins in the housing. Replace the pressure plate, friction disc, throwout bearing and pilot (spigot) bearing. If the flywheel is scored or has blue spots it needs to be ground.

[Ratrace427]

both output seals are leaking and i just changed the one on the passenger side. Tell me about the driver side with the backlash. The book says only to count the turns out, it does not tell me how to set it. The backlash seems good though with it only having a small amount of play clockwise/counter clockwise. The pass. side has some up and down movement that is questionable, does the backlash effect that? I have a small crack in the roll pin on the pass side and a new one will be ordered. I have not messed with the driver side yet.

[DMC5180]

When you replaced the seals, did you install speedi-sleeves on the flanges?

[Ratrace427]

When you replaced the seals, did you install speedi-sleeves on the flanges?

Hmm.. No i did not. I have only replaced the pass. side at this point. I did notice some rusty pitting on the seal race of the shaft. I wet sanded it with 400 grit. It seemed to clean up nice. There is still a worn area that could use some more sanding or maybe this sleeve. Where do you buy speedi-sleeves?

[DMC5180]

I like using the sleeve because it provides a slightly larger diameter .020 and a precision ground surface.

[Nicholas R]

I like using the sleeve because it provides a slightly larger diameter .020 and a precision ground surface.

I've used the sleeves with excellent results; definitely recommend them.

[DMC5180]

Where do you buy speedi-sleeves?

Google. Speedi sleeve 99169

The prices are all over the place. The last time I bought them from a local bearing supply store, they were about $20 ea. That was several years ago now.

This sleeve also fits the crankshaft pulley.

Fwiw: most of the DMC vendors have them too. Not sure of there prices.

SKF also has a speedi sleeve for the rear main 99317

[David T]

Google. Speedi sleeve 99169

The prices are all over the place. The last time I bought them from a local bearing supply store, they were about $20 ea. That was several years ago now.

This sleeve also fits the crankshaft pulley.

Fwiw: most of the DMC vendors have them too. Not sure of there prices.

SKF also has a speedi sleeve for the rear main 99317

You only need a speedi-sleeve if there is a groove or other damage to the seal area on the output flange. If you have up-an-down movement it is an indication the backlash is too loose. You do not have to remove the adjusting nut to replace the seal. The only way to properly set the backlash is to disassemble the transaxle. The roll pin does not have a CRACK in it, it is a ROLL PIN, not a dowel pin. It is hollow. If the backlash is loose the flange will not stay centered and it ruins the output seal. If the backlash is too tight it wears the pinion and crownwheel and then the backlash becomes too loose. It needs to be set as per the procedure and the specs. One sign of loose backlash is when the driver's side leaks and can't seem to be fixed while the passenger side always seems OK.

[Ratrace427]

My issue seems to be reversed. The pass. side is leaking worse than the driver side that has the big nut. The up and down play is also on the pass. side. Its not bad play though. But what is considered good and bad up and down movement? As of now i am going to change the roll pins and the seals only.

[Ratrace427]

I cant remember what oil i have for my transmission beacause I bought it years ago. I bought what the book called out but sometimes there is a overall understanding that you need to use something else. Do i use what the book calls out or was there a service bulletin saving to use something else?