anyone planning to manufacture stiffer replacement fascias?

[Farrar]

Both of my car's fascias are warped. The rear has been smiling now for some time, and now it seems that Sparky's developing eyebrows.

When I was working on the headlights recently, I noticed a general misshaping of the fascia -- most noticeable if you're working on all of those fiddly little screws there. Removing the grille and looking carefully around the headlights, it looks to me not like the fascia is warping UP around the high beams, but DOWN wherever there's a length of material not fastened or reinforced by more material at an angle -- around the bottom of the light housings, for example, there is no longer a straight (or even gently curved) line: if you follow the cutout for the headlights, you can see where it starts dipping down after the join with the vertical piece next to the grille. The grille is now getting more difficult to remove, because it is rubbing the fascia at the bottom -- because it is being pushed down by the fascia sagging in the middle. Likewise, on the rear of the car, the fascia is sagging in the middle such that it is now becoming difficult to align the screws correctly for the rear lens covers. And the material is also pulling away from the license plate bracket nuts, making me think that eventually they'll simply fall out because the bolts don't stretch like urethane does.

So my question is this: will there ever be a fiberglass replacement fascia? It would seem logical, given the materials used elsewhere on the car. And certain improvements could be made along the way (think "headlight buckets attached to the fascia so that you don't scrape the paint off when changing a bulb.")

Is anyone working on this -- for front or rear? Does anyone have any plans to do so?

Farrar

[WelmoedJ]

Both of my car's fascias are warped. The rear has been smiling now for some time, and now it seems that Sparky's developing eyebrows.
Farrar

This is a known issue; it's indeed caused by using the high beams a lot.
Usually it's repaired using a strip of aluminium (total length approx 1 meter, 2 cm width, 2 mm thick).
You need to remove the head lights, heat up (carefully) the facia over the length of the light units until its soft enough to straighten, glue the strip (approx 50 cm of it) to the inside and keep it clamped until dry.

I recall having seen a description - probably more in detail - on DMCNews.

[Rich W]

Hi Farrar,

I inquired with my fiberglass fabrication guy back in 2009 if he would like to take on
the fiberglass fascia project and he said he would be interested in the fabrication
part of the project, but not necessarily the work involved with attachment process.

So, this meant I needed to get a few of my other projects finished, such as the
Convertible and the custom lower panel covers that are still needed on the D Limo.
The lower panels will be fabricated once Chris N. is done with the stainless panels.

Making the mold and making the new fiberglass fascias is not the hard part of the
project, but making them high quality and light weight (maybe even carbon fiber?)
and redesigning the attachment hardware will be where the real challenges exists.

Maybe if the weather cools off by this Fall (and I get a few free moments) I can get
Paul at Fiberglass Solutions started on this project. My convertible will benefit too.
As always, it's mostly time and money to get something like this done and done well.

Later,
Rich W.

[sean]

Is anyone working on this -- for front or rear? Does anyone have any plans to do so?


What is the most you would honestly pay for one if it were available? A new replacement that is.

[content22207]

This is a known issue; it's indeed caused by using the high beams a lot.

I disagree. The worst eyebrows are found on cars that have been sitting idle, not cars that have been in use. They also are worse on cars that have sat in direct sunlight.

I think the problem is the fascia rests directly upon the raised area above the upper high beam adjusting screw. There is a recess for the raised area above the upper low beam adjusting screw to nestle into, but not the high beam. Sunlight heats up the fascia and bracket, leading to warpage where they touch.

I have flipped the headlight brackets on both my cars upside down to prevent any direct bracket to fascia contact (my upper headlight adjusting screws are now on the bottom). This has the added benefit that I do not have to reach up into the fascia to attach the headlight retainer screws or turn the adjusting screws (both are on the bottom now).

Rear fascia of course warps from muffler heat -- stupid design.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

This is a known issue; it's indeed caused by using the high beams a lot.

I don't think so; earlier photos of my car show the fascia in the same place over the headlights and higher over the grille. I have only used the high beams once in four years. My fascia has warped while sitting in the sun.

Anyway, how does using the high beams explain the rear fascia warping? :headscratch:


Making the mold and making the new fiberglass fascias is not the hard part of the
project, but making them high quality and light weight (maybe even carbon fiber?)
and redesigning the attachment hardware will be where the real challenges exists.

Thanks, Rich -- it's nice to see someone working (at least mentally) on this. I don't think carbon fiber would be the best solution for the community as only a select few could afford them. Would a fiberglass fascia really weigh that much more than a urethane one? I would think fiberglass would weigh less than urethane, but I am not an expert in such things. Carbon fiber is chic and everything, but I am guessing that in order to recoup your costs, you'd end up charging a lot more than most folks would be willing to pay, and they would still have to be painted, which is an extra cost.


What is the most you would honestly pay for one if it were available? A new replacement that is.

I can see paying $800 or $900 for a front fascia which would last the lifetime of the car, and maybe a little less for the rear since it's less complex. So that's $1600 or $1700 for both -- unpainted, of course. (But by the time any are made the price will probably go up since the dollar will go down. So later, you may have to adjust my willing-to-pay price for inflation. :lol:) I am thinking if they were made in carbon fiber the price would be at least twice that. Plus if your fiberglass fascia is damaged all you have to do is find a body shop that works on Corvettes and have it repaired; not sure where you'd go to get carbon fiber repaired.

Farrar

[SamHill]

What is the most you would honestly pay for one if it were available? A new replacement that is.

I think the grill and emblem should be part of the same mold. DMCH asks about $1600 for both.

Speaking for myself, I would happily pay $800 for an improved fiberglass part.

I would even be willing to do some sanding/cutting of the shipped part if it would bring down the cost of production.

[DCUK Martin]

Some cars' fascias warp, others don't. #1458 sat in the sun for enough years that the paint was all but gone, yet both remain as straight as an arrow to this day.

The theory I've heard which makes the most sense is that it's down to the variation in underbody - some cars need their fascias stretched hard to fit them on (#1458 definitely did), others put the top under slight compression from end-to end. Its the latter that start to warp where the PU is the weakest, which is over the high beam lights. That's a bit of an unhappy coincidence and I never leave the high beams on when pulling to a stop.

[sean]

I disagree. The worst eyebrows are found on cars that have been sitting idle, not cars that have been in use. They also are worse on cars that have sat in direct sunlight.

+1. I think the high beam propaganda is a myth.

[Farrar]

+1. I think the high beam propaganda is a myth.

+2. Since I bought the car in 2007, it has gone from no eyebrows as a garage queen to significant eyebrows living outdoors -- most of that in the last year when we've had excessively hot springs and summers. In almost four years, I have used the high beams for about thirty seconds (apart from blinking them at other vehicles), and I don't think that could have resulted in the warping now evident on #2613's front fascia.

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

[QUOTE=DCUK Martin;11571]others put the top under slight compression from end-to end. Its the latter that start to warp where the PU is the weakestQUOTE]

This has to be the cause otherwise the weight of the plastic would cause it droop. Now of course heat will quicken the problem. With the car moving I would not think that's the time heat will be worse.

[Rich W]

Hi Farrar,

The thought of using carbon fiber is not for the "look" of carbon fiber,
but rather the strength of the material, especially in mounting areas.
In fact, you may not even be able to see the carbon fiber material
laminated under other layer(s) of fiberglass cloth, if I actually use it.

Having "played with" Corvettes in the past, my concerns about fascia
pieces in fiberglass have to do with the way they are mounted and
supported, since most of the mounting and support is "one sided".
The stronger and less weight on the fascia, the less stress cracks.

I am also considering having the grill molded into the front fascia, but
not the emblem...I think that part should actually be a stainless repro.

Later,
Rich W.

[Farrar]

I agree about the emblem. Good thinking. :)

I hope I can afford a carbon-fiber fascia when they arrive. Who knows, perhaps I will have loads of disposable income from my syndicated radio show by then...

Farrar

[Byrne H&A]

Don't replace that front fascia. See our hardened steel inserts as shown on
www.DeLoreanupgradeparts.com Byrne

[DMCMW Dave]

I am also considering having the grill molded into the front fascia,
.

That will make a couple of service operations really expensive. The grille needs to come off for access to some wiring. I'd hate to have to pull the fascia to replace a parking light socket or take the trunk lid off.

[Rich W]

Thanks for the input Dave. Concerns are noted. All other input welcome.

Although unlikely, there is a chance the new fascia hardware will make a
fiberglass fascia much easier to remove and re-install, once it has been
initially installed (obviously, there will be no stretching of the fiberglass).
The fiberglass fascia will most likely install straight, head on, then adjust.

Later,
Rich W.

[Farrar]

That's what I was hoping for when you mentioned new mounting hardware.

Were you planning on having the headlight buckets attach to the new fascia?

Farrar

[jmettee]

Since no one has posted this concern yet...the front fascia needs to flex quite a bit to be removed/installed. You don't get a whole lot of flex with fiberglass or carbon fiber. Some improvements/shape changes would need to be made so that the front fascia required less flex to install.

For 1: delete the studs on the lower sides that engage the bottom of the front fenders.

Second: The headlight buckets are the other obstacle...perhaps a slightly different angle on the top part of the fascia, so it fits over top of them better. This will also open the top up a little to be able to get the top screws a bit easier. Just need to make sure it still matches up to the hood/fender slope close enough.

Third: while you're at it, open up the outer edges a bit so you can get a screwdriver at the outer screws for horizontal beam adjustment.

[Renee_1632]

Farrar, 1632 has different fascias than other DeLoreans, I believe they're made of polyurethane and the paint on them resembles (to my eye, at least) a darker hotwheels DeLorean. So a bit lighter than original. Anyways, they don't warp. Period. 1632 lives outside in the CA sun and I have zero eyebrow warping. If you'd like, I can contact the PO and see where he got them.

Edit: An image of my DeLorean next to Seventy4Burban's: http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/228285_10150167010864562_518734561_6866327_3928946 _n.jpg
Mine is on the left. Also, there's abt a half inch gap from where the SS ends down to the beginning of the fascia---basically, the fascia is slightly too small. But the front fits fine. Sorry I don't have a better pic.

[SoCalDMC12]

Weren't the facias on some of the pilot cars made out of fiberglass?

[Farrar]

Renee, thanks for the pic. I wonder if "polyurethane" is different from "urethane," which is what I am told our fascias are made of. A snapshot of the front, from headlight-level, would be most helpful; I can gauge how far out of shape mine is.

Edit: Forgot to mention -- Justin, my plan is to make the headlight buckets attach to the fiberglass fascia... or it would be my plan, if someone else weren't already working on this. :)

Farrar

[john 05141]

I build radio controlled model boats. They are usually over 2 meters long, and the hulls are made from fibre glass. I make the molds myself, in far more detail than a facia would be.
I've been toying with the idea of makeing a mold of the facia's. That should not be so hard to do. But I let go of the idea becasue I fear troubles with DMC. I do not have the time avablable to give it the necessary attention this year anyway.
But you can use a mold and install right then enforcements directly over the headlights.

John
3220

[Jeffu]

I build radio controlled model boats. They are usually over 2 meters long, and the hulls are made from fibre glass. I make the molds myself, in far more detail than a facia would be.
I've been toying with the idea of makeing a mold of the facia's. That should not be so hard to do. But I let go of the idea becasue I fear troubles with DMC. I do not have the time avablable to give it the necessary attention this year anyway.
But you can use a mold and install right then enforcements directly over the headlights.

John
3220

Wow! That boat is awesome!! Good job John. I definitely think you could handle a project like the facia's, no problem.:thumbup:

[Farrar]

Excellent work, John. Looks beautiful. I agree -- a fascia looks easy compared to that!

Farrar

[content22207]

I fear troubles with DMC.

I believe Houston only gets proprietary about the logo.

At some point contours themselves must become public domain. I am sure all the Countach replica manufacturers are not paying royalties to Lambourghini.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Renee_1632]

Here's the best pic I have from the front. I'll try and take another when I get her back. The front fascia also feels a bit thicker above the headlights.

[DMCMW Dave]

But I let go of the idea becasue I fear troubles with DMC. 3220

I can't speak for Houston, but I'd be willing to bet that if you came up with a quality replacement fascia for a reasonable amount of money, in useful quanties and delivery times, inventing/ investing on your own, they'd be knocking your door down to buy them.

Lotta caveats there. :paranoid:

[SamHill]

Florida Owners in/around Jacksonville, FL:

I have been talking to a fellow that is interested in making a mold for producing fiberglass facias. I think it would be instructive for him to see a Delorean and look at the facias in person.

I've told him that a major part of the benefit of an improved part would be if it was easier to mount/remove. I also told him that this was really a niche part, and he is still interested.

I own no part of this and this project would be his and his alone. I have no interest in it... except for being able to a buy a fascia from him if they go into production.

Is there an owner in that area who would be willing to show off their car for him?

PM me.

By the way, if any vendor/DMCH/private owner wants to collaborate, I'll gladly send along his info.

[Michael]

Just curious on the fiberglass fascia. I have removed mine and there is quite a bit of flexing and movement needed to install them. If you had a fiberglass fascia ready to mount....would you be able to do so without breaking it?

[SamHill]

Just curious on the fiberglass fascia. I have removed mine and there is quite a bit of flexing and movement needed to install them. If you had a fiberglass fascia ready to mount....would you be able to do so without breaking it?

Twisting/bending Fiberglass certainly doesn't work at all. Since you have have experience taking them on and off (I don't,) do you think it is possible to design a fascia that mounts differently and "slides" into place?

[DMCNY]

This is a project I am going to start this Fall/Winter.

I'm going to try and build one with no side attachment. I want to try and mold in elevator bolts for the top attachments in place of the sandwiched bracket.

For the bottom, I'm going to make a bracket that goes from the left fender to the right fender for the lower edge of the bumper to mount to. The bracket will share the mounting with the lower spolier on the sides, on top, up, inside the fenders.

One of the most time consuming parts is going to be making two molds of the bumper. I want to make a flash mold of the exsisting bumper and then cast a part from it. Then I'd go back and correct any and all imperfections in the part and create a final mold. If I can keep on the project fairly steady, I'd predict at least 6 months.

[Ashyukun]

Twisting/bending Fiberglass certainly doesn't work at all. Since you have have experience taking them on and off (I don't,) do you think it is possible to design a fascia that mounts differently and "slides" into place?

I think there's two or three somewhat different potential issues with a non-flexible (or at least far less flexible) fascia.

First is the attachments- specifically the 'hidden studs' on the sides that, like the rear fascia- though it's much worse- requires you to bend it out to get the studs on the fascia over and into their holes in the stainless. This is probably the easiest to fix, but making that connection a short fastener going into the fascia and not permanently attached to it. It would be a tight fit getting it in and out- but it already is getting the nut that goes on that stud.

The other next issue is the matter of the flexibility being used to account for the considerable variation in alignments and general assembly between our cars. Those of us who were at DCS and heard the POGs talking about all the work they had to do getting the cars that arrived from the factory looking good enough to be sold here and anyone who's had their fascias off and tried to get them properly aligned after putting them back on should know that there's a lot of variation from car to car, and the flexibility of the fascia helps to mask this somewhat by allowing it to conform to each individual car.

Finally, the flexibility of the fascia is, with the current design, necessary to be able to both install/remove and adjust the headlights. If you couldn't flex the fascia back a bit, you'd never get to many of the screws that hold the headlights in, or get to the adjustment screws for their aiming. An inflexible fascia would likely need larger openings where the headlights go to to account for this, or an accompanying redesign of the headlight assemblies to mitigate this.

That said- if these issues could be overcome, or end up not being as much of a problem as I see them as being, newer-material fascias could be nice to have as an option.

[content22207]

Finally, the flexibility of the fascia is, with the current design, necessary to be able to both install/remove and adjust the headlights. If you couldn't flex the fascia back a bit, you'd never get to many of the screws that hold the headlights in, or get to the adjustment screws for their aiming. An inflexible fascia would likely need larger openings where the headlights go to to account for this, or an accompanying redesign of the headlight assemblies to mitigate this.

Only if you leave the headlight brackets in their original orientation. If you flip them upside down, as I already have done on both my cars, there is no need to ever reach up into the top of your fascia ever again.

Side adjusting and mounting screws unfortunately are still on the sides.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

If you go back to the beginning of this thread, you'll see that Rich W and I were talking about different mounting options for a fiberglass fascia, including headlight brackets which attach to the fascia itself.

Just FYI.

Farrar

[content22207]

Even if the headlight brackets are mounted to the fascia, you will still have to reach up into it to change the bulbs and aim them (unless the brackets are turned upside down). The stock design basically rests the fascia on top of the bulbs. You have to flex it upwards to reach in with a screwdriver.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

If I were designing the thing from scratch, I'd have two access panels in the trunk, one on each side. Remove a panel and it gives you access to the rear of the bulb housings -- H4 bulbs, of course, can be removed and replaced from the rear, negating the need to futz with any retaining brackets and suchlike on the front.

Well, I can dream...

Farrar

[content22207]

Even H4 headlights are aimed from the front, not the back.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Even H4 headlights are aimed from the front, not the back.

Sorry, I forgot to spell everything out specifically.

I am not talking about the aiming screws; those are easily got to.

I was talking about the screws for the retaining brackets.

Every time I change a bulb, the retaining brackets scrape paint off the fascia. Also, I drop screws down inside it every time I replace a bulb.

Clear enough? I haven't had coffee so I may need to clarify later.

Farrar

[sean]

.

Every time I change a bulb, the retaining brackets scrape paint off the fascia. Also, I drop screws down inside it every time I replace a bulb.


I use a thin piece of aluminum wraped in gorilla tape that has a lip bent in it. I slide it in to cover the fascia and it runs the length of the fascia unde the headlight buckets. This allows lack of patience to keep from scratching up the paint when replacing the HLs

[Twilight_Fenrir]

Well.. I don't know hpw these are put together, as I have never seen one. But, from reading some of the posts, I think I have a rough idea... The bulbs are held in from the back? The D uses sealed-beam headlighs, right?

Hella makes a sealed beam conversion kit, that fits right in place of the orriginal sealed beam without any modifications. They have optic-grade glass, with chrome-plated brass reflectors, which are of astounding quality, and they use a replaceable h4/h1 bulb.

I bought a pair to start with on my Fiero, and they light up the night. They are about 50% brighter than sealed beams, but i've never once gotten 'flashed' by oncoming traffic, and they are DOT approved. If I pull up to a wall, theres a sharp line above which the light does not shine... Cool stuff. One pair runs about $80, and tjey are a massive upgrade. I put them in all my sealed beam cars now.

Sorry for typo's, on a phone :P

[sean]

Well.. I don't know hpw these are put together, as I have never seen one. But, from reading some of the posts, I think I have a rough idea... The bulbs are held in from the back? The D uses sealed-beam headlighs, right?


Sealed beams,yes, held from the back, depends on how ya mean. Here is the mounting assembly:
http://www.delorean.com/store/images/CATEGORY/large/3-5-0.gif

[Twilight_Fenrir]

Oh, I see, that's not so odd. Can you reach the electrical connection to the bulb without pulling the bulb? If so, you can change the hella very easily, without removing the bezels...

[content22207]

DeLorean headlights are very traditional for their era, with the exception of trim bezels -- we don't have them. Instead, the front fascia is cut very close, almost touching the metal retainers that hold the sealed beam bulbs into their buckets (about 1/8" gap). You can't even see the upper retaining and adjusting screws. There definitely isn't enough room to get a screwdriver between the fascia and headlights without flexing the fascia upwards. Same with the side screws.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Can you reach the electrical connection to the bulb without pulling the bulb?

No.

Hence my desire for an access panel behind the bulb housings.

Farrar

[Kenny_Z]

I don't know if anyone posted this before but a mold for fiberglass fascias already exists. The flying D from BTTF2, in fact the body panels on this car are all fiberglass. The pictures are small but I'd be very curious to see how close a fiberglass replica matches a stock D.

http://www.codeoneauto.com/frames/bttf_flyingdelorean1.html

Seems those molds still exist.

[Kenny_Z]

I just noticed that the mold has the time machine bits already on the front bumper. Whoops :D

[DMCNY]

I don't know if anyone posted this before but a mold for fiberglass fascias already exists. The flying D from BTTF2, in fact the body panels on this car are all fiberglass. The pictures are small but I'd be very curious to see how close a fiberglass replica matches a stock D.

http://www.codeoneauto.com/frames/bttf_flyingdelorean1.html

Seems those molds still exist.

Just a fair warning to anyone who may consider contacting these people in search of molds, parts, ect.

They have been well know in the replica community for years now of taking peoples money and not delivering product. I'd suggest you do some research first. This is Eric Shave from Wild Copper and Paul Sher of Code One Auto.

caveat emptor

[DMCH James]

Haven't read each line of each post in this whole thread, but here's a heads-up that attendees of the Open House who read/comment in this thread will have something very cool to report come October 15th.

James

[Farrar]

attendees of the Open House who read/comment in this thread will have something very cool to report come October 15th.

Does this have anything to do with the new underbodies?

Farrar

[protodelorean]

Having actually made a fiberglass fascia, I can tell you Rich is spot-on with focusing on the attachment. The method DMC designed sucks and is difficult to reproduce in low-volume methods. If these things mounted more like modern fascias, I'd have made some molds long ago.

Flexibility with fiberglass really isn't an issue. The fiberglass doesn't need to be too thick which does leave some flexibility.

http://www.projectdelorean.com/images/b_0604_26.jpg
http://www.projectdelorean.com/images/grenex/IMG_1045.jpg

[john 05141]

I missed some posts obviously.

Making those hulls, it is quite a job. I have made many, and threw away most of the molds becasue they take quite some space. Some cruise lines were kind enough to give me detailed drawings of their ships, and the deal includes not to forward the drawings, so I destroyed the molds too after the hull came out of the mold.

I saw the picture of the mold from the BTTF facia, and that is way to roughly made. Once you have a good mold you can make many replica's. But the hard work is finishing the facias. You need to cut out the light openings, blinker openings, all the edges and sand them down to have a good quality. That takes a serious amount of work to do this job right but perfect. Those facia's can be made immediately with a black color for the bumpers but the grey coloring would still have to be done.

I think James is announcing something in this area. I do not have the time this year anyway, maybe next year if there is still a necessity for it

Thanks you like the ship models, I have build 18 so far, here are some more examples. For those of you who knwo something about cruise ships; it is the Enchantment of the Seas, Voyager of the Seas and the Seabourn Legend.

John

[DMCH James]

Still aiming to have it ready to show at the open house next weekend.

James

[Farrar]

Looks great, James!

Farrar

[AdmiralSenn]

Hmmm, what's that in the background in the first picture? Looks like a fender.

[DMCNY]

Still aiming to have it ready to show at the open house next weekend.

James

Looks good. Any ideas on pricing/avalibility?

Plans to do the rear as well?

[john 05141]

THAT looks very good!

john

[DMCH James]

Looking iffy to have a sample for the show, but I got some more progress photos from the supplier today...

James

[Farrar]

Looking good, James! Are these going to be manufactured in Louisiana, too?

Farrar

[Jeff K]

I missed some posts obviously.

Making those hulls, it is quite a job. I have made many, and threw away most of the molds becasue they take quite some space. Some cruise lines were kind enough to give me detailed drawings of their ships, and the deal includes not to forward the drawings, so I destroyed the molds too after the hull came out of the mold.

I saw the picture of the mold from the BTTF facia, and that is way to roughly made. Once you have a good mold you can make many replica's. But the hard work is finishing the facias. You need to cut out the light openings, blinker openings, all the edges and sand them down to have a good quality. That takes a serious amount of work to do this job right but perfect. Those facia's can be made immediately with a black color for the bumpers but the grey coloring would still have to be done.

I think James is announcing something in this area. I do not have the time this year anyway, maybe next year if there is still a necessity for it

Thanks you like the ship models, I have build 18 so far, here are some more examples. For those of you who knwo something about cruise ships; it is the Enchantment of the Seas, Voyager of the Seas and the Seabourn Legend.

John

Awesome models! My son will go crazy when he sees these pics!

[DMCH James]

Looks good. Any ideas on pricing/avalibility?

Plans to do the rear as well?

At this time, stocks of NOS rears are still pretty good. These should be available in the next month or so.


Looking good, James! Are these going to be manufactured in Louisiana, too?

Farrar

These are not being made in Louisiana, but rather by a company elsewhere that specializes in replacement fiberglass bumpers.

One thing that everyone should know in regards to these - the DeLorean, AFAIK, is rather unique in that the bumper covers/fascias have historically come pre-painted and ready to install when purchased from DMC/dealers. No other make/model of car that I am aware of has ever come like this. Thy typically come primed and ready for painting/color matching.

Just like a fiberglass body kit, these will require adjustment and fitting on the car, and then removal for painting and re-installation. While the unit cost *may* be less than an NOS, painted, fascia, the additional labor involved in the above process should be taken into consideration.

James

[Farrar]

So James, were these at the show? If not, will there be an official unveiling in the future?

Farrar

[DMCVegas]

Quick Question: For any potential Fascia replacements made of fiberglass, will they be regular glass, or will their be any additional polymers added to make them flexible? Like TruFlex, or FlexiGlass Corvette bumpers as an example.

As for easy removal of the Headlights themselves, there's got to be a way to easily modify the buckets and/or brackets to do that. It would be awesome to have the outer edges attach with L-shaped safety tabs, and the inner side bolt into place, with thick foam pads being crushed to ensure rigidity to prevent bouncing of the lights. That way the entire assembly of both bulbs just swings in and out for easy access with only the grille required for removal. In fact, I'm sure this can be done.

As for a non-invasive way to adjust the angle of the lights, I'd have to poke around some junkyards to find some parts, but that should be a cinch. If you could simply mount the adjustment bolt assembly BACKWARDS, you could just do what modern cars do and run the flexible cables for remote adjustment. Lots of modern cars use this set up when the composite lights are buried low, and the screws need to remain hidden. But instead of running the cables verticly, we could run them horizontally behind the grille to quickly pop-off when you replace bulbs and adjust the angle of the lights.

A complete setup would only require a new mounting portion of the bracket that would be in at least 3 pieces, but is very doable. It would use the existing buckets, trim pieces, and hardware. Comparatively too it's also way easier than cutting through the pontoon and into the luggage compartment which would not only require the physical modification, but the additional hardware and fabrication of access panels and the like.

[DMCH James]

So James, were these at the show? If not, will there be an official unveiling in the future?

Farrar

They did not make it for the show - I'm now told the first sample will arrive next week. Lots of photos to come when it rolls up!


Quick Question: For any potential Fascia replacements made of fiberglass, will they be regular glass, or will their be any additional polymers added to make them flexible? Like TruFlex, or FlexiGlass Corvette bumpers as an example.


We talked a lot about that with this supplier - who is capable of making "flexible" or rigid pieces. As I've been told, the "dirty little secret" about ALL flexible fiberglass bumpers is the chemical additive that prevents the resin from completely hardening. This is fine for installation but if it's ever damaged in an accident, repairing what can literally be a "gooey" mess is nearly impossible. Our first sample will be a rigid piece, and then we'll try a flexible one.

James

[Farrar]

Our first sample will be a rigid piece,

Are you going to make them slightly thicker at the ends, then sand them down and refinish where appropriate? Better to have something too big than too small, was the way I was thinking about doing it (before I found out that you were doing the same thing, only better).

Farrar

[DMCH James]

Posted photos of the official DMCH product here:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2087-New-fiberglass-fascia-bumper-cover&p=27197

James

[john 05141]

very very very... nice!!!

john