Front sway bar bushings

[Flash66]

Well Hervey did it to me again and sent the wrong parts. Always a surprise enclosed when I open his boxes. Anyone know of a sway bar bushing that will cross for the control arms? I really don't want to reuse the old ones. Thanks!!

[Mark D]

I'd personally recommend the poly bushings from DMCNW. I installed these on my car and the front end feels nice and tight.

Just the bushings for the LCAs:
http://www.delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=K1003DP&Category_Code=510

"Includes four custom-machined polyurethane bushings with steel sleeves and special silicone grease. This kit replaces the soft, weak rubber bushings (108912) that connect the front sway bar to the lower control arms. Benefits include more effective action from front sway bar, better performance under hard braking and less deflection of the front suspension during cornering and braking. Also helps to maintain correct front wheel toe-in and caster. Ideal when used in conjunction with K1002DP polyurethane front sway bar mounting kit (see K1006DP to buy both together and save $$)."


Full kit that includes the LCA sway bar bushings also includes the mounting points for the sway bar to the frame:
http://delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=K1006DP-C

"Two polyurethane bushings, two mounting brackets (similar to 108998 ) and four washers to replaces the soft rubber bushings (100774) that are used to attach the front sway bar to the forward frame crumple tubes.
Four custom-machined polyurethane bushings with steel sleeves and special silicone grease for replacing the soft, weak rubber bushings (108912) that connect the front sway bar to the lower control arms.
Benefits from using this kit include more effective action from front sway bar, better performance under hard braking and less deflection of the front suspension during cornering and braking. Also helps to maintain correct front wheel toe-in and caster."

[Gfrank]

I got poly bushing for the sway bar lca mounts and the frame mounts from Dave/julee when I was at Dcs, vary happy with them thus far! Mucho tighter

[Flash66]

For the time being I needed to put the front end back together. I had also bought DPI's front bushings with the grease fitting installed which are much thicker than stock. I must say that it was a major pain in the ass to get the sway bar back in and even more so with Josh's replacements for the front. The ears needed to be cut down to fit and the last 2 bolts really took some prying to get them in. I am worried at this point I'm going to have alignment issues and possibly a cross threaded bolt but who knows? Any comments? Should I put the stock bushings back in or roll with it?

[Tillsy]

The brackets were a nightmare to force back on with the poly bushings from DMCNW as well, I wouldn't stress ;)

[Bitsyncmaster]

The brackets were a nightmare to force back on with the poly bushings from DMCNW as well, I wouldn't stress ;)

I did not have much problems. I did not tighten any bolts or nuts until all the bracket bolts were started.

[Flash66]

The brackets were a nightmare to force back on with the poly bushings from DMCNW as well, I wouldn't stress ;)

I feel much better about it now. Thanks Tillsy!

[Delorean Industries]

No cutting or modifications to the brackets is required. The slotted brackets allow for a front caster adjustment to be made. Depending on the condition of your lower radiator support brackets and lower control arm bushings the installation can be easy to hard.

[Tillsy]

I did not have much problems. I did not tighten any bolts or nuts until all the bracket bolts were started.

I do likewise - the first bolt was only on enough to stay, but getting the other side of the bracket flush enough to get the second bolt in took a lot of force.

I've since removed several times for other work and exactly the same saga forcing it back on.

[Flash66]

No cutting or modifications to the brackets is required. The slotted brackets allow for a front caster adjustment to be made. Depending on the condition of your lower radiator support brackets and lower control arm bushings the installation can be easy to hard.

While I understand the concept, I don't see how there's any room for adjustment. In my case it took all I could muster to just get it on. You can see in the photo the lack of room for the slotted brackets facing the rad supports. They just wouldn't fit trying every scenario possible. I'm pretty concerned at this point. I appreciate your input Josh. 30923

[TTait]

Seems like a good time to ask this - what is the best grease to use when installing the urethane bushings?

[Mark D]

I just used a floor jack to raise the sway bar into position and the front bushing bolt installation was easy... are you saying you're trying to fight the bar into position manually and then it's tough to get the bolts installed?

I used a long 2x4 to support the bar across the middle as I raised it up into position with the floor jack and it worked like a charm.

[Flash66]

I just used a floor jack to raise the sway bar into position and the front bushing bolt installation was easy... are you saying you're trying to fight the bar into position manually and then it's tough to get the bolts installed?

I used a long 2x4 to support the bar across the middle as I raised it up into position with the floor jack and it worked like a charm.

Were you using the stock bushings, or one of our vendors newer type? I really like the bushings I got from Josh, and I know all circumstances can be different from one DeLorean to another.

[Mark D]

I was using poly bushings from DMCNW in both the lower control arms and at the mounting points on the frame. This setup is much stiffer than stock so there was no way I could have gotten the sway bar in position without the floor jack. The DPI metal bushing brackets for the front frame bushigns are similar to the DMCNW brackets except the DMCNW brackets do not have a grease fitting.

Idealy you don't want grease on the outside of the frame mount bushings anyway, the inner cylindrical surface where the bushing contacts the sway bar is where you need grease.

Here's a photo of the DMCNW front frame bushings I installed:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=30831&d=1410897478

[FABombjoy]

I didn't see it mentioned, but with a full poly setup it is much easier to install the front bushings / brackets with the wheels on the ground.

[Mark D]

That's a great point to make as well. You'd probably want to set the front end down on ramps or wheel stands so you would have enough access under the car. With front lowering springs it might be tricky to get at the mounting bracket bolts if the tires were on the actual ground.

At the time I installed my front swaybar the rear of the car still had no suspension installed yet so lowering the front of the car would have been more difficult... or I suppose I could have waited until my rear suspenson was built and then go back to finish up the front.

[FABombjoy]

It's actually fairly easy even on lowered cars. I've done it before either flat the ground or with scrap 2x10 lumber under the tires (cant recall which but definitely not on ramps). It simply fits into place without any need to wrestle around with it.

I've also tried to wrestle it on while on a 4-post and it took 3 people - two to hold it up and one to install the mounting hardware (loosely to avoid preload with final torque done under load)

[Tillsy]

Good points - that explains it :)

[Henrik]

I pulled my front sway bar and probably need to order new hardware where the bar connects to the lower control arms. Looking at the exploded view in the workshop manual, it's kinda hard to tell what bushings, washers and nuts are needed. (I have already discovered that my car is missing a washer, and instead of a Nyloc nut, the PO had put two nuts.) So, do I have all the pieces identifed correctly in the attached?
33132

[Bitsyncmaster]

I pulled my front sway bar and probably need to order new hardware where the bar connects to the lower control arms. Looking at the exploded view in the workshop manual, it's kinda hard to tell what bushings, washers and nuts are needed. (I have already discovered that my car is missing a washer, and instead of a Nyloc nut, the PO had put two nuts.) So, do I have all the pieces identifed correctly in the attached?
33132

The two nuts are correct. There is a recall that replaced the nylock with two nuts and locktite.

[DMCMW Dave]

The two nuts are correct. There is a recall that replaced the nylock with two nuts and locktite.

http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/SC-03-1.82.html This is the recall notice. It mentions the two nuts but does not show in a picture.

[Henrik]

http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/SC-03-1.82.html This is the recall notice. It mentions the two nuts but does not show in a picture.

Thanks. Good to know that my double nuts are actually the way it is supposed to be :). BUT, I'm wondering, why is DMCH selling the "old" Nyloc nut and not the think+thin nuts? I mean.... doesn't that go against the intent of the Service Bulletin?

Also, do any of the rubber bushings need to be lubed or greased?

Thanks,

[DMCMW Dave]

Thanks. Good to know that my double nuts are actually the way it is supposed to be :). BUT, I'm wondering, why is DMCH selling the "old" Nyloc nut and not the think+thin nuts? I mean.... doesn't that go against the intent of the Service Bulletin?

Also, do any of the rubber bushings need to be lubed or greased?

Thanks,

Because that's what's in the parts manual and it never got corrected in the transition to the web. The recall kit has the parts in it, and if you look at the recall kit contents you can see them and then look them up separately. One of those things.

http://store.delorean.com/p-10229-front-end-recall-kit.aspx


Silicone grease is OK. Avoid petroleum grease.