Hood backup cable

[Pascal]

As a new owner I made a list of all the things I would like to do on my Delorean.
Very high on the list was a hood backup cable. I already read that this was quite essential as there is no easy way to open the hood when the original cable would snap.

I bought a bicycle brake cable and now I was looking for a neat way to fasten the cable in the trunk. I think I read all the posts on a backup cable but I still didn't find a way I really liked on fastening the cable.

When I was looking through some junk I came across a shackle and I thought this maybe could work.
The pin in the shackle was a little too thick so a had to make it a little thinner. I also drilled a hole to fasten the pin.
On the second picture you can see the original pin and the one I made from the shackle.

The original pin was held by a spring but I preferred using a hitch pin to secure the pin.

In the end i really worked well and I am very pleased with the result.

Pascal

[Tillsy]

there is no easy way to open the hood when the original cable would snap.

Great work!

Another option is installing an electronic actuator - which pulls directly on the latch directly, completely bypassing the cable. Even if you don't have a Wings-A-Loft system you could still install just that one component and wire it to a switch hanging behind your console so you can push it in an emergency (though but might as well permanently mount it somewhere as it is immensely useful for full-time use rather than pulling the release handle under the dash).

Even though I have a Wings-A-Loft system I rarely open the trunk by remote as I also wired it to my custom centre console and just push a button when getting out to instantly pop it.

Otherwise, a backup cable is absolutely a good idea - it is possible to get a trunk open if the cable is snapped, but it's not something you'd ever want the stress of having to go through!

[SS Spoiler]

Beings that I have a gas flap hood, I rigged a stiff wire handle to the latch. Now I open the "hood" from outside the car
without having to open the door. I don't think i've used the inside one in years.

Paul Cerny 2691
Kalispell, MT

[Trstno1]

As a new owner I made a list of all the things I would like to do on my Delorean.
Very high on the list was a hood backup cable. I already read that this was quite essential as there is no easy way to open the hood when the original cable would snap.

I bought a bicycle brake cable and now I was looking for a neat way to fasten the cable in the trunk. I think I read all the posts on a backup cable but I still didn't find a way I really liked on fastening the cable.

When I was looking through some junk I came across a shackle and I thought this maybe could work.
The pin in the shackle was a little too thick so a had to make it a little thinner. I also drilled a hole to fasten the pin.
On the second picture you can see the original pin and the one I made from the shackle.

The original pin was held by a spring but I preferred using a hitch pin to secure the pin.

In the end i really worked well and I am very pleased with the result.

Pascal

Very nice! You have got me thinking about this again, and it looks like a good winter project. Thanks for the contribution!

[David T]

I would not consider having an electric actuator a "back-up". I also don't like the idea of being able to open the hood by opening the fuel door for security purposes. If you are going to do it for the original reason, to open the hood in the case where the primary cable breaks, you need to have a mechanical cable attached to the latch mechanism going into the passenger compartment where you can reach it. You should also test it once in a while just to be sure it works when you also inspect the primary cable. If you see fraying strands don't waste any time getting it fixed!

[TTait]

I bought a backup cable for my other car. and installed it in about a minute alongside the original one, in the same sheath and i thought using the same hole in the lever. No problem.

I just bought one for the second car, but the hole in the lever on the latch looks way too small to hold two cables at once - what have i forgotten?

[Elvis]

Question:

Why do those cables break ?

I don't see a reason for it. There is no high force and it's used so rarely - why would it snap ?

One thing I could imagne is a sharp angle, but that's something that can be solved.


Did sembody waste his time with solving this question ?

Thanks,
Elvis & 6548

[Victor]

Question:

Why do those cables break ?

I don't see a reason for it. There is no high force and it's used so rarely - why would it snap ?

One thing I could imagne is a sharp angle, but that's something that can be solved.


Did sembody waste his time with solving this question ?

Thanks,
Elvis & 6548

Good question. One easy thing to do is to remove the wire and apply a good grease all along that wire and put it back in the sleeve. We use to do this to brake wire for bikes and it prevent rust for good and it make the actuation very smooth. Here we have product like Rustcheck in spray (the green can) which is not a grease per see but certainly can last longer than a grease. But I guess you can also use grease used in aircraft and such.

[David T]

Good question. One easy thing to do is to remove the wire and apply a good grease all along that wire and put it back in the sleeve. We use to do this to brake wire for bikes and it prevent rust for good and it make the actuation very smooth. Here we have product like Rustcheck in spray (the green can) which is not a grease per see but certainly can last longer than a grease. But I guess you can also use grease used in aircraft and such.

The cable usually breaks right where it attaches to the release handle. As it moves, the handle moves through an arc and bends the cable pretty severely right at that point. One spot to always look at for any signs of fraying. Even though it may be used rarely try to guess how many times it gets pulled in 30 years. The back-up cable is so inexpensive and can save you so much aggravation it just makes sense to have it.

[DMCMW Dave]

Question:

Why do those cables break ?

I don't see a reason for it. There is no high force and it's used so rarely - why would it snap ?

One thing I could imagne is a sharp angle, but that's something that can be solved.


Did sembody waste his time with solving this question ?

Thanks,
Elvis & 6548


Because so many people pull VERY Hard on the handle expecting the hood to pop. Then the bracket that holds the cable bends. Then the cable comes out of the bracket at a right angle and frays. Then in breaks.

The fix is to be sure that the cable is coming straight out of the hold in the jacket, and break the fingers of anyone but yourself who opens the bonnet.

[Elvis]

Thanks Dave, this is the answer I wanted to hear :-)

So - adjust it before it breaks - and it won't break.

:thumbup2:

[Nicholas R]

Question:

Why do those cables break ?

I don't see a reason for it. There is no high force and it's used so rarely - why would it snap ?

One thing I could imagne is a sharp angle, but that's something that can be solved.


Did sembody waste his time with solving this question ?

Thanks,
Elvis & 6548

Fatigue. You don't have to take a metal past it's tensile strength to break it if you repeatedly take it past it's endurance limit. Over time the cable breaks. They're 33 years old after all.

I know lots of people whose cables have broken, mine included. Just happened out of the blue one day. Luckily I had put a backup cable in place. Now I have a significantly larger cable running through the original sleeve. I used a bicycle brake cable. Works perfectly, though even now I still have a backup.

[Nicholas R]

So - adjust it before it breaks - and it won't break.

I don't think anyone is willing to promise that it won't break, but if you want to take the chance, go ahead. I've heard it's a lot of fun trying to get into the trunk by pulling the fascia and headlights so that you can unbolt the hinges :wink:

[Elvis]

Thru the front ? LOL

Fatigue ?



well, I trust Dave Swingle's answer much more.

At least - go an check it !

[Nicholas R]

Thru the front ? LOL

Fatigue ?



well, I trust Dave Swingle's answer much more.

At least - go an check it !

Fatigue is repeated cyclic loading of a component. The loading can remain below the yield stress and still the part can fail. Over 30+ years the cycles can add up; especially depending on how your previous owners treated and stored the car. Everyone underestimates fatigue. But it's your car, the backup cable is just a quick and easy, non-invasive recommendation that can save you a lot of headache later.:thumbup:

And yes, through the front. Here is a picture of what that looks like (photo credit to Tyler B.).
31216

[DMC-81]

And yes, through the front. Here is a picture of what that looks like (photo credit to Tyler B.).
31216

...... And I just added a bike cable to my shopping list. Wow, that is a job that I want to avoid! A broken hood release cable was the first issue that I had to fix on my car. As Dave mentioned when I looked at the cause, the bracket was bent, causing a right angle where the cable comes out of it's covering. The metal collar cut the cable over time. I fixed the bracket before installing a new cable, but I will add a back-up.

Good thread!

[Pascal]

This is really a very easy and inexpensive job. The biggest problem I had was to find a way how to neatly incorporate the backup cable in the trunk.
The shackle was for me the perfect solution. This puts my mind on ease even though I will probably never need to use it.

Another other small tip for the backup steel cable which comes under the dashboard next to the original cable. I found the almost impossible to use enough force on the bare steel cable to operate the switch.
So I used a pulling handle of a RC motor. This handle is used to start RC cars. I imagine very cheap and available in a good model shop. I had one lying around from a RC car from my son.
With this handle it is a easy as the original handle.

Pascal

[Elvis]

Fatigue is repeated cyclic loading of a component. The loading can remain below the yield stress and still the part can fail. Over 30+ years the cycles can add up; especially depending on how your previous owners treated and stored the car. Everyone underestimates fatigue. But it's your car, the backup cable is just a quick and easy, non-invasive recommendation that can save you a lot of headache later.:thumbup:

And yes, through the front. Here is a picture of what that looks like (photo credit to Tyler B.).
31216

LOL cool picture.

We once opened a car with a wire that we pushed in coming from the wind shield. That was many years ago in Ireland.

The backup cable is a cheap solution - I have no problem with that. But I want to know the real root cause, and
that is not fatigue, it's a wrong angle, sharp edge or something similar.

Everybody who rides bikes that use such wires know that there is much more force and used way more often
than on the hood opener. I bet the wire holds 20 to 50 times more force than we need to release the hood.

YESSS I am a fan of facts :-)


oh BTW - how often do you see throttle wires snap ? Same thing, much longer, more force and pushed by foot !
I've seen one ! completely rusted in !

Oh BTW again - check your RPM relay, had one last week - the second one this year (2 of 4) where the solder
joints were broken. Why the car could still run was a wonder. 20 seconds soldering and it was repaired.


Oh - BTW - just went downstairs and checked my car. the sheet metal is bent in such an angle, that
the wire scrachtes where it exits the hose. I'll bend it back and adjust the wire - this way it will last forever.

Oh - BTW - I have a remote trunk opener installed INSIDE the cabine that pulls on the same wire :-)
Reliable for 10 years now.

[Nicholas R]

LOL cool picture.

We once opened a car with a wire that we pushed in coming from the wind shield. That was many years ago in Ireland.

The backup cable is a cheap solution - I have no problem with that. But I want to know the real root cause, and
that is not fatigue, it's a wrong angle, sharp edge or something similar.

Everybody who rides bikes that use such wires know that there is much more force and used way more often
than on the hood opener. I bet the wire holds 20 to 50 times more force than we need to release the hood.

YESSS I am a fan of facts :-)


oh BTW - how often do you see throttle wires snap ? Same thing, much longer, more force and pushed by foot !
I've seen one ! completely rusted in !

Oh BTW again - check your RPM relay, had one last week - the second one this year (2 of 4) where the solder
joints were broken. Why the car could still run was a wonder. 20 seconds soldering and it was repaired.


Oh - BTW - just went downstairs and checked my car. the sheet metal is bent in such an angle, that
the wire scrachtes where it exits the hose. I'll bend it back and adjust the wire - this way it will last forever.

Oh - BTW - I have a remote trunk opener installed INSIDE the cabine that pulls on the same wire :-)
Reliable for 10 years now.

I stand by what I said, but I guess you're the expert :thumbup:
(also my car doesn't have an RPM relay :wink:)

[Rich_NYS]

I know this is a really simple task, but I'm somehow making it more complex than it needs to be. Please help with these questions:

-Is the backup cable a bike cable with sheath, or without?

-If without the sheath, do I feed it through the original/existing sheath with the existing cable? (Assuming there's room for both.)

Thanks!

[Pascal]

I know this is a really simple task, but I'm somehow making it more complex than it needs to be. Please help with these questions:

-Is the backup cable a bike cable with sheath, or without?

-If without the sheath, do I feed it through the original/existing sheath with the existing cable? (Assuming there's room for both.)

Thanks!

The backup cable is a bike cable with sheath. There is plenty of room to fit this besides the existing cable.
As you said a very easy job but it gives you peace of mind, just in case.....

[Rich_NYS]

The backup cable is a bike cable with sheath. There is plenty of room to fit this besides the existing cable.
As you said a very easy job but it gives you peace of mind, just in case.....

Thanks Pascal, I see in your pic it is a cable with the sheath but in a few other threads I think I'm seeing a backup without.

Do you have any other pics of where/how yours is attached to the hood latch? I can see [in your pic] how it's routed alongside the existing cable, but a little unclear on how it's attached using that "pin & hitch" in the pics.

[Pascal]

Thanks Pascal, I see in your pic it is a cable with the sheath but in a few other threads I think I'm seeing a backup without.

Do you have any other pics of where/how yours is attached to the hood latch? I can see [in your pic] how it's routed alongside the existing cable, but a little unclear on how it's attached using that "pin & hitch" in the pics.

No problem. I'll try to make a picture but at the moment the hood is covered with paper and masking tape as I am respraying the header panel.
The attachment to the hood latch is in fact very simple.
The most difficult part is making the replacement pin for the hood latch from the shackle.

The other item you need is a brake cable with a pear shape nipple (see picture)

Now replace the existing pin with the pin you made from the shackle (see picture) and feed the brake cable through the shackle pin's hole.

[David T]

No problem. I'll try to make a picture but at the moment the hood is covered with paper and masking tape as I am respraying the header panel.
The attachment to the hood latch is in fact very simple.
The most difficult part is making the replacement pin for the hood latch from the shackle.

The other item you need is a brake cable with a pear shape nipple (see picture)

Now replace the existing pin with the pin you made from the shackle (see picture) and feed the brake cable through the shackle pin's hole.

It does not have to be in a sheath. It can be just a light cable running alongside the cable already installed. End it by the handle under a bolt.

[Nicholas R]

It does not have to be in a sheath. It can be just a light cable running alongside the cable already installed. End it by the handle under a bolt.

I agree; my backup cable has always just been a bare cable (no sheath). I just connected it to the extra hole in the latch mechanism, then threaded it through the firewall, and tucked it up by the firewall under the carpet. No need for it to be exposed. It is a backup after all. When ever I needed to use it, I just had to dig it out and give it a good pull.

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks everyone, that clears things up. I'll check that one off my to-do list soon.

[Jonathan]

Just wanted to attach a photo I finally found of my backup cable attaching creation. She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts.

This is just how I hooked mine up. Your experience may vary.

32168

[Alan]

She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts.

I like the picture and technical help.

I LOVE the reference. 😀

[kings1527]

LOL cool picture.

We once opened a car with a wire that we pushed in coming from the wind shield. That was many years ago in Ireland.

The backup cable is a cheap solution - I have no problem with that. But I want to know the real root cause, and
that is not fatigue, it's a wrong angle, sharp edge or something similar.

Everybody who rides bikes that use such wires know that there is much more force and used way more often
than on the hood opener. I bet the wire holds 20 to 50 times more force than we need to release the hood.

YESSS I am a fan of facts :-)


oh BTW - how often do you see throttle wires snap ? Same thing, much longer, more force and pushed by foot !
I've seen one ! completely rusted in !

Oh BTW again - check your RPM relay, had one last week - the second one this year (2 of 4) where the solder
joints were broken. Why the car could still run was a wonder. 20 seconds soldering and it was repaired.


Oh - BTW - just went downstairs and checked my car. the sheet metal is bent in such an angle, that
the wire scrachtes where it exits the hose. I'll bend it back and adjust the wire - this way it will last forever.

Oh - BTW - I have a remote trunk opener installed INSIDE the cabine that pulls on the same wire :-)
Reliable for 10 years now.

Some "facts": Yes, fatigue is a real thing. Yes, after 39 years of repeated cycling, the cable can in fact snap. No, it doesn't require sharp angles. No, I haven't been pulling hard on my release for the past 8 years of ownership on a now-39 year old cable. To my knowledge, there isn't any kind of guarantee with cables like this that they'll last for an infinite period of time through repeated cycling.

Taken two hours ago:
64051

64052

[David T]

The cable is prone to break right where it goes through the bolt attaching it to the release handle. It gets bent in an arc and after repeated cycles it fatigues and breaks. The "good" thing is there is plenty of cable left to grab with a pliers or vise grip so you can still get the hood open. As for the back-up cable, IMHO it is better to end it under a bolt so you can find it quick, it is easier to pull, and you don't need a tool.

[kings1527]

The cable is prone to break right where it goes through the bolt attaching it to the release handle. It gets bent in an arc and after repeated cycles it fatigues and breaks. The "good" thing is there is plenty of cable left to grab with a pliers or vise grip so you can still get the hood open. As for the back-up cable, IMHO it is better to end it under a bolt so you can find it quick, it is easier to pull, and you don't need a tool.

Yes, I'm aware I can get the hood open with pliers or vice grips due to the material left over but you highlight the points I'm making:

1) repeated cycles
2) fatigue and breaks
3) unavoidably bent in an arc where it properly installs through the bolt; not due to bends/sharp turns due to improper installation.

I have zero desire to install a backup cable after installing a brand new cable. I may very well be dead of old age by the time this new one breaks coupled with zero preventative maintenance on it.

[JBaker4981]

Throwing this out there... visiting a bicycle repair shop and getting about 4' of brake cable works well for a backup. Currently, my backup cable lays hidden and out of sight under the carpet.

[kings1527]

Throwing this out there... visiting a bicycle repair shop and getting about 4' of brake cable works well for a backup. Currently, my backup cable lays hidden and out of sight under the carpet.

Thanks for that. I ordered the same as a replacement for the original. As simple and cheap as it is to replace along with how frequently it is used, I might add it to my 5 year maintenance schedule.