Could really use some advice (like right now) re: parking brake pad replacement

[AgentDL]

Replacing parking brake pads as we speak and hit a snag. I was able to replace the outer pad, as there is easy access to the nut that needs to be loosened to slide out the old pad, then tightened to secure the new pad. However, I'm at a loss as to how to access the nut on the opposite side of the car. I've spent the last 20 minutes looking online and can't find anything. What do I need to do to access the nut on the other side? See pics.

Thanks in advance.

http://i.imgur.com/swbFih9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/fKg4z3j.jpg

[AgentDL]

So the car defeated me for the time being. After more research it looks like I need to take the whole assembly off, which I wasn't prepared to do at the moment. Would still appreciate any input. Thanks!
~
DL

[DMCMW Dave]

So the car defeated me for the time being. After more research it looks like I need to take the whole assembly off, which I wasn't prepared to do at the moment. Would still appreciate any input. Thanks!
~
DL

That's the plan. It is simply those two bolts from above (hidden behind the steel line in your photo) and the cable from below.

[AgentDL]

That's the plan. It is simply those two bolts from above (hidden behind the steel line in your photo) and the cable from below.

Thanks Dave. Any chance you know of a step-by-step guide? I'm not sure exactly what you're referring to and what I'll specifically need to do. I need the "for dummies" version. Any resources out there?

Thanks,
Doug

[jackb]

Try this with the new pads.
I still need to do it on my car, right now I have no pads and a cable that popped loose off the handle....

http://www.deloreaneurotec.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=4125

[sdg3205]

Doug -

The parking brake pads are quite simple to replace.

You'll be fine. Do you have a manual?

[Tillsy]

I did mine whilst rebuilding the callipers, so no access difficulties.

That said, removing them is a piece of cake so perhaps just remove them to do the change?

[AgentDL]

I did mine whilst rebuilding the callipers, so no access difficulties.

That said, removing them is a piece of cake so perhaps just remove them to do the change?

It does look like the caliper needs to be removed in order to access the nut to loosen, remove, and replace the inside parking brake pad. My issue is that I don't know how to do that. I have zero mechanical knowledge and am learning my way around the car, so I really need specific step-by-step instructions to follow in order to detach the caliper. Do you know where I can find these? And also a (preferably digital) set of shop manuals to hang onto?

[Denverdelorean]

Remove these bolts. the parking brake slides out. Just bend the retainer clips down with a screw driver to access the bolts. bend them back when you're finished.

31214

edit: not sure why thats so small Click on it for larger view and you'll see the bolts i am talking about

[sdg3205]

If I remember correctly:

Remove the 2 hard lines
Remove cable via the 10mm nut
Flatten lock tabs so you can access the 2 (11mm?) bolts
Remove bolts (threaded at the top)
The lock tab and the fingered spring bracket are now removeable
You can now pull out just the parking brake apparatus!
No need to remove the caliper

[AgentDL]

Remove these bolts. the parking brake slides out. Just bend the retainer clips down with a screw driver to access the bolts. bend them back when you're finished.

31214

edit: not sure why thats so small Click on it for larger view and you'll see the bolts i am talking about

I know the bolts. So I don't need to remove the caliper? I just remove those bolts and the parking brake assembly comes out?

[Denverdelorean]

If I remember correctly:

Remove the 2 hard lines
Remove cable via the 10mm nut
Flatten lock tabs so you can access the 2 (11mm?) bolts
Remove bolts (threaded at the top)
The lock tab and the fingered spring bracket are now removeable
You can now pull out just the parking brake apparatus!
No need to remove the caliper

I can confirm that this is generally right. I just did it on saturday :-)

[Denverdelorean]

I know the bolts. So I don't need to remove the caliper? I just remove those bolts and the parking brake assembly comes out?

yep. and the bolt holding the cable to the arm inboard of the caliper. you'll see it.

[AgentDL]

So guys, I hate to sound like a complete idiot, and you've been very helpful so far, but I'm really starting with a knowledge base of zero here.


Remove the 2 hard lines
Remove cable via the 10mm nut
Flatten lock tabs so you can access the 2 (11mm?) bolts
Remove bolts (threaded at the top)
The lock tab and the fingered spring bracket are now removeable

Are there diagrams available to help me identify all of these things? Does any of this involve brake fluid coming out of anywhere, and having to replace it and bleed the brake system?

[sdg3205]

Yes, you will be removing the main hard line that runs the length of the trailing arm and the crossover line that blocks those two bolts.

You will have fluid loss and air in the system, but isolated to the one calliper, still run the bleeding procedure outlined in the technical manual (online as PDF in this forum).

Edit - my recollection is the main hard line has to be disconnected from the caliper to access the cross over hard line. Just double check. I'm often wrong :)

[Denverdelorean]

Yes, you will be removing the main hard line that runs the length of the trailing arm and the crossover line that blocks those two bolts.

You will have fluid loss and air in the system, but isolated to the one calliper, still run the bleeding procedure outlined in the technical manual (online as PDF in this forum).

Edit - my recollection is the main hard line has to be disconnected from the caliper to access the cross over hard line. Just double check. I'm often wrong :)

It does.

[AgentDL]

Thanks so much, guys. I think we've drilled down to enough specifics where I know what I'm doing.

Can anyone point me to the technical manuals?

[Dangermouse]

Best to buy a paper set from the vendor of your choice, but they can also be viewed here:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2866-Searchable-Workshop-Technical-Bulletins-and-Volvo-Engine-Manuals

[AgentDL]

You guys are my heroes. Going to take another crack at this on Thursday and will report back.

[sdg3205]

You guys are my heroes. Going to take another crack at this on Thursday and will report back.

You'll be fine! Just take your time and enjoy yourself.

[Denverdelorean]

full workshop manual here too.


http://www.deloreanclub.co.uk/technical/manuals/workshop/

[AgentDL]

Ugh, it never ends! Armed with all of the great info from this thread, I started working on the rear driver side parking brake pad replacement last night. Was able to remove the parking brake assembly and get the inner pad swapped out, which was my previous road block on this endeavor.

I put the assembly back on, and now... the parking brake adjustment bolt will not "catch" in the assembly and I can't screw it in. I don't see any issues with the threading on the bolt, nor any issues with the threading in the assembly when I shine a light through it. Everything is lined up fine and I can't figure out what the issue is. To further eliminate any doubt about the bolt lining up properly through the calipers, I even removed the assembly and just tried to screw the bolt into the inner half by itself, and still it wouldn't catch.

Any thoughts?

SIDE NOTE: Virtually zero brake fluid came out when I detached the brake lines. Should this concern me?

[Denverdelorean]

SIDE NOTE: Virtually zero brake fluid came out when I detached the brake lines. Should this concern me?

You may need a new master cylinder. Have the system vacuum bled at a shop. My master cylinder had a dead rear piston and i replaced it. i need to get the rears vacuum bled myself.


As far as the bolt goes, if it doesn't catch even when you are just trying to test thread it, you may have a cross threaded bolt that won't start. Hard to tell without inspecting it. Carefully look at your threads. If it looks pinched on the first thread, just try and bend it back again. It should catch. Check both the bolt and the caliper for smashed threads.

[krs09]

I had a similar issue with my rear brakes. I had no fluid out of my lines. I had to replace the rear soft lines (corroded shut) and my master cylinder. Now the rear brakes work!

[David T]

I had a similar issue with my rear brakes. I had no fluid out of my lines. I had to replace the rear soft lines (corroded shut) and my master cylinder. Now the rear brakes work!

If you can't start the bolt it could be because the nut in the adjuster keeps turning. You may have to find a way to prevent it from spinning like forcing a toothpick alongside or something. As for the lack of brake fluid, it probably is not the master cylinder but the hoses as suggested in the previous post. Disconnect the hoses and see if you can get fluid out.

[AgentDL]

If you can't start the bolt it could be because the nut in the adjuster keeps turning. You may have to find a way to prevent it from spinning like forcing a toothpick alongside or something. As for the lack of brake fluid, it probably is not the master cylinder but the hoses as suggested in the previous post. Disconnect the hoses and see if you can get fluid out.

UPDATE:

David, thanks for the input. The bolt wouldn't thread because the adjusting nut inside the parking brake assembly somehow became dislodged. I opened up the parking brake assembly, reassembled the adjusting nut, pawl, and spring, and was able to get the bolt to thread.

The brake lines are fine as well. Turns out the car just decided to wait a little while before spitting out the fluid shortly after I had left. I replaced the fluid and bled both of the rear brakes.

As I neared victory over the parking brake, however, I accidentally torqued off the small bolt at the end of the parking brake cable as I was tightening the nut on it after attaching it to the lever.

http://i.imgur.com/FRcga0T.jpg

Can someone PLEASE tell me that this is an easy and inexpensive fix, and that I don't need to purchase and fit an entire parking brake cable assembly? Any way to replace just the little bit at the end so I can attach the cable and the lever?

[DMCMW Dave]

UPDATE:

Can someone PLEASE tell me that this is an easy and inexpensive fix, and that I don't need to purchase and fit an entire parking brake cable assembly? Any way to replace just the little bit at the end so I can attach the cable and the lever?

Uhh - no.

I don't know of any way to fix that other than replacing the whole cable. Unless you can drill a hole in the part that broke off, tap it, and use a bolt.

I've never see that happen. Use smaller tools.

[AgentDL]

Uhh - no.

I don't know of any way to fix that other than replacing the whole cable. Unless you can drill a hole in the part that broke off, tap it, and use a bolt.

I've never see that happen. Use smaller tools.

Not the answer I was hoping for, but I appreciate the quick response!

[chris williams]

I've never see that happen
Oddly my old DeLorean was like this when I bought it. The cable had been held to the bracket with a couple of cable/zip ties and worked fine for at least three years before our testing people noticed it! Wouldn't recommend this as a fix though.
Chris

[jackb]

Drill a small hole at the end of the part of the cable that sticks out the bottom of the caliper lever, and secure it with a cotter pin. I had to do the same on mine.

[ALEXAKOS]

Mine was seized in the and broke off too. Replaced the whole damn thing with a used wire.
You could try what Dave and jack proposed but do the job on a bench. Remove the wire from the vehicle to get that hole centered and straight through.

As Chris, I am afraid that if may not work.

But don't give up ;)