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Flicky
11-03-2014, 12:13 AM
The shifter on the auto is not very good (floppy lockout peg). Mine is the early style, so it is even more horrid. I am wondering if anyone here has ever converted to an aftermarket shifter (B&M, TCI, Hurst, Turbo Action), and how hard it would be to do it. The stock setup looks to have extra rods, and I'm wondering if I can just bypass all that stuff and run the new cable linkage all the way to the trans.

I have my center console out and will also need to drop my trans for some seal replacements. Is there anything crazy in the shift linkage to keep in mind?

Thanks

Flicky
11-03-2014, 12:46 AM
Looking at it more I should say the new shifter cable to the pivot instead of all the way to the trans.

rileydawgg
11-03-2014, 02:20 AM
I'm very curious to see what you find. I've thought about getting my shifter covered in leather to make it look nicer... maybe there's a better plug and play option that you'll find.

DMCMW Dave
11-03-2014, 09:57 AM
and run the new cable linkage all the way to the trans.

I have my center console out and will also need to drop my trans for some seal replacements. Is there anything crazy in the shift linkage to keep in mind?

Thanks

Well - the first issue is that the transmission in the DeLorean is behind the shifter, and all the aftermarket auto shifters I've seen have the cable going out the front.

The crazy thing is that it's one rod and there is a link in the middle that connects it to a cable. If you were to go one rod all the way back the shifter pattern would be upside down. And that cable is a huge issue.

The shift cable going in to the transmission is an intrusion into the trans, and is below the oil level, so however you connect to the trans you still need that exact cable (design) in place or all the ATF will run out. Most automatics have a pivoting linkage outside the case so this isn't such a problem.

Before you buy anything get under there and see how it all works, draw it up, and then design it. If the new shifter cable will tolerate a 180 degree turn inside the frame, is long enough, and you can figure out a way to connect its cable to the crossover linkage, it could be done.

Depending on the internals of the new linkage you may be able to somehow tie the two cables together inside the frame (hard to visualize doing this reliably. Depends on whether the shifter pulls or pushes the cable as you pull it out of park.

David T
11-03-2014, 10:53 AM
Well - the first issue is that the transmission in the DeLorean is behind the shifter, and all the aftermarket auto shifters I've seen have the cable going out the front.

The crazy thing is that it's one rod and there is a link in the middle that connects it to a cable. If you were to go one rod all the way back the shifter pattern would be upside down. And that cable is a huge issue.

The shift cable going in to the transmission is an intrusion into the trans, and is below the oil level, so however you connect to the trans you still need that exact cable (design) in place or all the ATF will run out. Most automatics have a pivoting linkage outside the case so this isn't such a problem.

Before you buy anything get under there and see how it all works, draw it up, and then design it. If the new shifter cable will tolerate a 180 degree turn inside the frame, is long enough, and you can figure out a way to connect its cable to the crossover linkage, it could be done.

Depending on the internals of the new linkage you may be able to somehow tie the two cables together inside the frame (hard to visualize doing this reliably. Depends on whether the shifter pulls or pushes the cable as you pull it out of park.

As pointed out, it is not going to be "plug and play". Anything can be done but it is going to take someone making some kind of custom cable between the shifter and the transmission. The stock gearshift and cable can be made to work well. Replace any worn parts and go over all of the adjustments. Typically problems with the shifter are caused by people trying to force it into reverse because they do not know how to get past the lock-out gate.

Jonathan
11-03-2014, 11:14 AM
Is this discussion about automatics or manuals?

I thought it was talking about the lock out button on the auto shifter handle, but then wasn't sure as other cables and lock-out gates were mentioned.

I've had mine apart (automatic trans) and the collar that is supposed to ride up and down on the plastic grooved shapes to keep it in P or R or D or whatever doesn't stay as it spins if forced (without pressing the button to lift it up). On my early style shifter handle, I think it's because the two pieces of plastic (one above the cover plate and one below) spin between each other. I've thought you could glue them together but then you wouldn't be able to get the whole set-up apart again. That lock-out button is more placebo on my car than anything else so if someone figures out a good alternative, let me know.

Flicky
11-03-2014, 12:47 PM
It's for the auto.

I've been looking at the Turbo Action Cheetah SCS (~$320) and it looks like for the GM (TH350) and Ford style would be a cable out the rear. Even with a front cable I think it would work because if you look at how something like a 727 get routed, it goes out the front, then 180s to the rear, then 180s again under the tail to the hook up on the driver's side of the trans above the pan. The D's auto position selection is just a straight line from P to 1 (I think). Hooking the new shifter to the pivot T in the frame will be work...maybe. I'm guessing that I'll have to make a special plate to hold the new cable there. Might be able to modify the plate that comes with the shifter to fit.

So far the coolest shifter I've found has been this. They are $1,200, but it would make it much easier to have a cup holder: http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/product/gsm/

jangell
11-03-2014, 01:11 PM
So far the coolest shifter I've found has been this. They are $1,200, but it would make it much easier to have a cup holder: http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/product/gsm/

This kind of thing is on my list of projects to try to build myself from scratch (I figure an Arduino with a stepper motor that "winds" the cable, or just pivots an arm to simulate the old shifter; the hardest part seemed to be figuring out where the different shifter positions are once the old unit is out of the car.).

But since that might be a while, I was thinking of just upgrading the shifter to something more modern in the interim. I'll be interested to what you come up with.

-- Joe

David T
11-03-2014, 02:49 PM
This kind of thing is on my list of projects to try to build myself from scratch (I figure an Arduino with a stepper motor that "winds" the cable, or just pivots an arm to simulate the old shifter; the hardest part seemed to be figuring out where the different shifter positions are once the old unit is out of the car.).

But since that might be a while, I was thinking of just upgrading the shifter to something more modern in the interim. I'll be interested to what you come up with.

-- Joe

I have seen where there are kits that hook up a servo motor to the shift cable for an automatic and the servo motor is controlled by a microprocessor which is programed to move the cable into the correct gear at the proper speed. The one I saw had a kit to use paddle shifters also with a kit that uses the horn wire to power a bluetooth radio. Very pricey.

DMCMW Dave
11-03-2014, 03:04 PM
So far the coolest shifter I've found has been this. They are $1,200, but it would make it much easier to have a cup holder: http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/product/gsm/

I agree. If I was going to go through the trouble I'd get rid of the whole shifter and put a knob on the dash and maybe even paddles on the wheel.

TTait
11-03-2014, 03:43 PM
Getting rid of the shifter assembly would also give you a fantastic spot for a tablet install... If you are going for paddle shifters then you are likely modernizing the interior anyway.

If you do try an aftermarket shifter with cable, I should think you would be able to rework the cable so that it ties in above the pivot point rather than below. Much like the lock linkages you will get exactly the same cable motion, but in the opposite direction if you can modify the assembly to work on the opposite side of the pivot.