Lost my "pipe of agony" today.

[ramblinmike]

Since I'm finally getting around to installing the new fuel line set I bought from Rob Grady at DCS, I decided it was time to look into one of the mods I've been wanting to do for a couple of years. I think I saw someone do something similar, so I don't think it's an original idea.

My goal was to eliminate the leak-prone o-ring setup for the idle control where the steel tube meets the metering unit. The pictures speak for themselves, but essentially I'm shortening the tube and using hose from the steel tube to this barb. Should be leak-proof and completely unnoticeable unless you were looking for it. Three plan is to TIG weld the new barb to the housing.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/15/5ee25d38f3ef2df91d8133e70aff45f6.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/15/c7fae2c2445c04d8db5f522b3ce7aa5a.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/15/b85db7ca8b870448b84a20595c1cfa59.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/15/1472d0c51a0f0b979797200fbd47f7fe.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/15/ba5ab84f29e6145084781a5d52d81be2.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/15/9caffebb6f6876054e9a50c436a0ab78.jpg

[djdogbone]

I'd buy one of those if it works!

[ramblinmike]

When I get it back from the welder I'll be sure to post pictures.

[ALEXAKOS]

Interesting idea. How often does this o ring become an issue to make it an important upgrade?

The only draw back I can think of in such a mod:
If you tig weld it to the housing, then every time you have to work on anything that requires the metering head assembly being removed, you would need to separate the two parts needing a new gasket.
I think that was the reason it was made removable in the first place.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Before you weld it, check to see if you can remove and install the unit into the intake. I seem to remember it's a tight fit.

It's not that the o-ring leaks but the brass cap falls out. You can fix that by locktite on the ring.

[Farrar]

At least one owner has simply JB-Welded a brass hose barb there. I tried to find pictures, but I couldn't - sorry.

[Nicholas R]

Are you sure you can get the housing in and out with that in place? If it was something that was a press fit instead of requiring welding, you'd probably have more potential buyers. Doubt many would want to weld on their housing, especially given how difficult cast aluminum can be to weld. Pressing this in place seems a lot easier for an average user to do. Just my $.02.

[ramblinmike]

The Renault setup uses a pressed in barb much like the one I'm proposing. Also, why can't I just tilt the housing to get it out? Here's a pic of the Renault version:http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/16/0a9df7c0211e70416e929467e4444499.jpg

[DMCMW Dave]

At least one owner has simply JB-Welded a brass hose barb there. I tried to find pictures, but I couldn't - sorry.

I'm sure Bill would send you one.

[Farrar]

I'm sure Bill would send you one.

Ha! I thought it was him, but I couldn't remember. I won't bother him, though. :P

[ALEXAKOS]

The Renault setup uses a pressed in barb much like the one I'm proposing. Also, why can't I just tilt the housing to get it out? Here's a pic of the Renault version:http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/16/0a9df7c0211e70416e929467e4444499.jpg

do you see the molding right over the pipe on that Renault version?
Seems as if the pipe flips upward for the removal.
I know I was cursing to remove my set. cause on the other side you have that tap that is extending:

http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/8B68B839-C354-46C1-81B3-6F7262308730_zpsi4sxdxyh.jpg (http://s821.photobucket.com/user/alex-akos/media/delo%20resto/8B68B839-C354-46C1-81B3-6F7262308730_zpsi4sxdxyh.jpg.html)

So I don't know how much room there is to twist that thing in there. The intake is pretty tight underneath too.

The only way in and out would be pushing it out backward... which would need all the spark plug wiring removal from the distributor. Or even the dist. cap removal.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I've seen a handful of late VIN cars that came from the factory with a similiar short pressed in pipe and it does allow a better fit with less chance of a vacuum leak. The only problem is you need a longer molded hose to fit it and I don't think dmch has any of the later style hoses. What are you going to use for the hose for your version of this setup?
Rob Grady

[ramblinmike]

Well, after reading your concerns, I managed to get my part back before anything was permanently attached or altered just to put my mind at ease. I was sure it was going to fit but you guys made me doubt myself. It looks as though it fits just fine between the sides of the intake manifold with the barb attached. The barb barely sticks out past the side of the housing where the flange meets the upper half. See the pics for what I'm talking about. It will definitely work and it will install and come out without any weird wiggling, tilting, cursing, etc.


I've seen a handful of late VIN cars that came from the factory with a similiar short pressed in pipe and it does allow a better fit with less chance of a vacuum leak. The only problem is you need a longer molded hose to fit it and I don't think dmch has any of the later style hoses. What are you going to use for the hose for your version of this setup?
Rob Grady

I'm planing on cutting the metal tube right at the end of the barb and using a piece of 3/4" hose to connect the two. The tube measured at .746" with calipers I had here at the house. I don't know where I'd source a hose with that severe bend in it at the idle valve that would connect the idle valve to the intake without keeping at least part of the metal tube.

31604 31608 31605 31606 31607

[ALEXAKOS]

Respect! You proved it to be a cool mod. Let us hear the forth going:)