A/C Recharge

[Felix_29]

Hello all,

I am currently running the the old R12 A/C system in my car and I am interested in a recharge without having to convert to R134a. Any help or information would be awesome?

Thanks,

Felix

[sdg3205]

Hello all,

I am currently running the the old R12 A/C system in my car and I am interested in a recharge without having to convert to R134a. Any help or information would be awesome?

Thanks,

Felix

I did this.

Do a visual inspection and check for any damage. It seems to be recommended to replace the dryer (accumulator) and office tube before a recharge. They are cheap. Is there any pressure left in the system or is it bone dry?

You've got a late VIN so you'll already have a later style dryer, which means no adapter would be needed. If everything LOOKS good, take it to an R-12 certified shop and they'll pressure test it, vacuum and recharge it for you. It won't be cheap, but it will be worth it.

[David T]

I did this.

Do a visual inspection and check for any damage. It seems to be recommended to replace the dryer (accumulator) and office tube before a recharge. They are cheap. Is there any pressure left in the system or is it bone dry?

You've got a late VIN so you'll already have a later style dryer, which means no adapter would be needed. If everything LOOKS good, take it to an R-12 certified shop and they'll pressure test it, vacuum and recharge it for you. It won't be cheap, but it will be worth it.

A lot depends on how low you are and how big a leak you have. If you are just a little low and have a slow leak you can get by with just "topping off" (adding enough refrigerant to get the system running). If the leak is big and/or the system is at atmospheric you have more work to do. In such a case I would recommend replacing the 3 hoses and the dryer. Replace the oil, vacuum, test for leaks, find and fix and them charge with R-12.

[John U]

If you are in a place that allows a substitute like Redtek 12a (Canada for example), you only need to empty any remaining gas from your system and add the Redtek and some oil. I have done this with two different cars and I swear by it. My Delorean has close to 0c vent temps when it is 30c outside. And the price is right too. Obviously wont work if you have a system that leaks alot.

John

[kings1527]

Like David T said. And take a look at my blog post on AC repair. I was in the same boat as you and believe it or not, AC work isn't that difficult to do particularly when you have the tools and don't have to replace the evaporator (or even the condenser for that matter). Pretty straight forward stuff with some technique involved, such as pulling a vacuum and keeping moisture/air out of the system. I'd say it's probably the easiest when you start by replacing everything in the system; no more residual oil in the system, no guesswork of anything. Clean slate.

If at all possible, I highly recommend keeping the system R12. That's what it was designed around and the performance was superb from day 1 at the factory. Craigslist and eBay are great places to grab R12.

[John U]

Can't get R12 in Canada. Thats why I went with Redtek. No one will even evacuate R12 from your system! Its easier to get an assault rifle than R12 here!

[sdg3205]

How far are you from DMCMW? I have to do the 5 hr round trip to DMCNW for r12 AC work, but that's what I signed up when I bought a D. I'd make the trip to see Dave swingle if you can swing it.

[Andrew]

If your system is a little low on R-12 (as evidenced by rapid cycling of the compressor) you might just need a top-off. Contrary to some misconceptions, it is permissable to top off a system with a slow leak.

Cans of R-12 can often times be located on Craigslist. In fact, I've seen quite a few listed in recent years. I suspect that many sellers are clearing out the cans that they stockpiled 20+ years ago for cars they no longer have. The last couple cans of R-12 I've purchased have run between $10 and $15 per can.

An EPA 609 certification is required to buy R-12 for personal use. If you don't have a 609 cert, you can sign an affidavit confirming that you will resell the R-12 to somebody with a 609 cert. The 609 cert can be obtained online via an open book test for a $15 fee and it never expires. I got my cert from Mainstream Engineering a few years back.

Putting a can of R-12 in a car is pretty quick and simple. (Only charge to the LOW side.)

On an aside, if your compressor is good and if you plan on keeping the R12 system, I would recommend leaving the accumulator alone. Due to the location of the accumulator along with 30+ years of exposure to the elements, attempts at removal could cause the fitting on low side hose to break...or worse, the evap coil fitting could break!

Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2