PDA

View Full Version : General Steering Wheel Removal



Shark Pilot
11-23-2014, 08:34 PM
I've searched this forum regarding the simple removal of my steering wheel and I found only the following, "Air hammer removal is the best way. Loosen the nut. Bear hug and pull the the wheel. Smack it with the air hammer and a flat bit to pop it off the splines. Done."

What does THAT mean? I just need to remove the wheel and shift it's placement on the spline. I did this with my old M6 and it was easy, but with a 24mm nut, loosen and pull. This one is a 22mm nut which is fine, but the washer and nut are off and the wheel seems to be a real bitch to remove. Is there some fancy way of removing the wheel I'm missing or do I just "man" it off? Whomever put it on last screwed it up and didn't bother with the whole drive it for 10 seconds and see where it sits method and it's annoyingly crooked. Please help. :dunno:

Nicholas R
11-23-2014, 08:37 PM
Have you considered using a steering wheel puller? They work surprisingly well. Not even that fancy.

You can likely rent one at your local auto parts store for free. If they don't have a steering wheel puller, a harmonic balancer puller will do the exact same job. Just be sure you have the right bolts for the jack holes.

All this air hammer stuff just sounds to me like a recipe for screwing up your steering column.

Farrar
11-23-2014, 08:48 PM
I second the steering wheel puller suggestion. Just know that if you buy/rent a domestic one, it will likely come with SAE bolts, so you will have to go to the hardware store and get some metric ones to use instead.

alexwolf1216
11-23-2014, 08:48 PM
I tried several steering wheel pullers and all I did was mangle my threads. I finally ended up finding one with a weird size bolt that worked, but it took a while. Now I bought DMC's wheel adapter, and it has no holes, so I will have to do the air hammer trick. Sucks too cause i am a few splines off :(

David T
11-23-2014, 09:44 PM
If you don't have an air hammer another "trick" is to have someone pulling on the wheel while you loosen the nut and hit the shaft as hard and as fast as you can. Doesn't always work and you can cause a LOT of damage. Maybe you can drill and tap a couple of holes in the adapter? Using a puller is the best way to do it because it is under more controlled conditions.

Shark Pilot
11-23-2014, 10:47 PM
If you don't have an air hammer another "trick" is to have someone pulling on the wheel while you loosen the nut and hit the shaft as hard and as fast as you can. Doesn't always work and you can cause a LOT of damage. Maybe you can drill and tap a couple of holes in the adapter? Using a puller is the best way to do it because it is under more controlled conditions.

Thanks for the reply guys. I'll keep seeing if I can find some way to execute this. I just don't understand why I can't pull the wheel off with the nut off. Why is this so hard? My BMW 633 was SO easy you just loosen the nut and off came the wheel. I've never used a steering wheel puller before and not sure how to mount it or "pull" the wheel. The 22mm nut came right off and I can't see that anything else is holding the wheel on the spline. :mad:

Spittybug
11-23-2014, 11:07 PM
Warren at DMC taught me this years ago. Use an air hammer with a pointy bit. Just place it in the little divot on the end of the steering shaft. Use one hand while the other is pulling up on the steering wheel. I've done it a dozen times and it works like a charm. Just don't let the chisel drift!

DMCMW Dave
11-23-2014, 11:24 PM
Thanks for the reply guys. I'll keep seeing if I can find some way to execute this. I just don't understand why I can't pull the wheel off with the nut off. Why is this so hard? My BMW 633 was SO easy you just loosen the nut and off came the wheel. I've never used a steering wheel puller before and not sure how to mount it or "pull" the wheel. The 22mm nut came right off and I can't see that anything else is holding the wheel on the spline. :mad:

The shaft is tapered.

Josh
11-24-2014, 12:19 AM
I tried a puller and it didnt work. Tried an air chisel at a tech day and we couldnt get the steering wheel to budge either. So im at a loss. Sorry for the threadjack

Ryan King
11-24-2014, 01:38 AM
Undo the nut off the steering column, grab a hammer and tap, put the tap on the steering column and tap with the hammer. Works like a charm.
I used a puller on mind and did nothing but screw everything up and tore out the threads on the steering wheel.

TTait
11-24-2014, 01:58 AM
You can also remove the master brake cyl cover in the front trunk, loosen the pinch bolt at the center of the steering shaft, and then unhook either the top or bottom connection on the shaft, collapse the shaft, rotate the steering wheel, and then reassemble. I think there are fewer splines so the adjustment is a bit coarser, but you may get it right where you need it without removing the steering wheel itself.

mluder
11-24-2014, 04:35 AM
First of all - Do not remove the nut completely before you try to pull the steering wheel of... Unless you want a broken nose. Loosen the nut but do not completely remove it. This way when the wheel does finally let go you will not hit yourself in the face with it.

Second - Use the steering wheel puller. The important thing is to make sure you have the correct threaded screws. I ended up having to go to Ace Hardware to find the right ones and even then had to use coupling nuts because they didn't sell long enough ones. I'm afraid I don't recall what the thread its but I found the information here on the forum.

Of course your mileage may vary... It's entirely possible you wheel is fused and the puller simply wont work. That being said I find finesse is the first attempt and then varying degrees of brute force if that doesn't work. You should start with the least damaging approach first, after all you can always try the air hammer later but at least with the puller you don't risk more than a couple stripped holes.

Bitsyncmaster
11-24-2014, 07:23 AM
The threads in the wheel are a 6 mm. I've usually have to re-tap the threads to the next larger size. But then the wheel puller works great.

Tillsy
11-24-2014, 08:02 AM
Or just drill the threads out, poke the steering wheel puller bolts all the way through the wheel, and use a washer and nut on the other side. Much stronger than relying on that very soft alloy thread.

Kherns
11-24-2014, 12:59 PM
Loosen nut and drive some miles on a bumpy road :)

PJ Grady Inc.
11-24-2014, 02:02 PM
First of all - Do not remove the nut completely before you try to pull the steering wheel of... Unless you want a broken nose. Loosen the nut but do not completely remove it. This way when the wheel does finally let go you will not hit yourself in the face with it.

Second - Use the steering wheel puller. The important thing is to make sure you have the correct threaded screws. I ended up having to go to Ace Hardware to find the right ones and even then had to use coupling nuts because they didn't sell long enough ones. I'm afraid I don't recall what the thread its but I found the information here on the forum.

Of course your mileage may vary... It's entirely possible you wheel is fused and the puller simply wont work. That being said I find finesse is the first attempt and then varying degrees of brute force if that doesn't work. You should start with the least damaging approach first, after all you can always try the air hammer later but at least with the puller you don't risk more than a couple stripped holes.

That's a very good suggestion. The only good way is to loosen the nut three or four turns and using both knees and one arm to pull back on the wheel whilst (i'm a sucker for British inflection) using the other arm, and your AIR CHISEL of course, to force the wheel off.
You'll feel when the wheel breaks free but the loosened nut will save your nose from undue trauma!
Steering wheel pullers SUCK for removing DMC steering wheels. The air chisel, wielded properly, works every time. Stop by the shop and I'll show you! BTW it is better to use a small blunt tipped chisel rather than a pointy one to avoid damage to the shaft.
Rob Grady

Shark Pilot
11-24-2014, 08:45 PM
That's a very good suggestion. The only good way is to loosen the nut three or four turns and using both knees and one arm to pull back on the wheel whilst (i'm a sucker for British inflection) using the other arm, and your AIR CHISEL of course, to force the wheel off.
You'll feel when the wheel breaks free but the loosened nut will save your nose from undue trauma!
Steering wheel pullers SUCK for removing DMC steering wheels. The air chisel, wielded properly, works every time. Stop by the shop and I'll show you! BTW it is better to use a small blunt tipped chisel rather than a pointy one to avoid damage to the shaft.
Rob Grady

HA! Funny you should write Rob because I was going to call you tomorrow. I'll see where I can rent one since I don't have one (I have a Dewalt ratcheting drill instead) and take it from there. It's on there pretty good, but as you know it's been removed in the last 4 years for resto work so it can't be seized on there, at least I hope not. Plus it's barely got 14K on it. Oddly difficult maneuver removing this stupid wheel. It should be cake. Thanks for the help everyone I really appreciate it. Air Hammer technique wins! :race:

OverlandMan
12-22-2014, 03:38 PM
I came across this thread whilst searching for a steering wheel removal "how-to" guide.

I'm going to be replacing my stock wheel with another stock wheel. My original wheel's leather deteriorated and I decided I'd find one in good shape and swap out rather than try and find someone to recover. I'm also a fan of the OEM wheel opposed to the aftermarket ones. To each his own.

Here's a dumb question. How does the center pad come off? I don't want to force and break anything. Once that is off, I assume the nut is exposed for loosening (but not removal to avoid trauma to the face). I get that part. I've used a hub-puller in the past to get stuck brake drums loose.

What I don't understand is the use of an air chisel. Are you guys saying to apply upward pressure w/ knees and arm while using the other arm to vibrate the middle of the shaft with a blunt-tipped air chisel?

PJ Grady Inc.
12-22-2014, 05:23 PM
I came across this thread whilst searching for a steering wheel removal "how-to" guide.

I'm going to be replacing my stock wheel with another stock wheel. My original wheel's leather deteriorated and I decided I'd find one in good shape and swap out rather than try and find someone to recover. I'm also a fan of the OEM wheel opposed to the aftermarket ones. To each his own.

Here's a dumb question. How does the center pad come off? I don't want to force and break anything. Once that is off, I assume the nut is exposed for loosening (but not removal to avoid trauma to the face). I get that part. I've used a hub-puller in the past to get stuck brake drums loose.

What I don't understand is the use of an air chisel. Are you guys saying to apply upward pressure w/ knees and arm while using the other arm to vibrate the middle of the shaft with a blunt-tipped air chisel?

We have factory "Blem" NOS wheels that were removed at the east coast (Sommerville NJ) prep center when the cars were new. I had a couple hundred when I bought them 30 years ago and am down to twenty or thirty left. If you're still looking for a wheel get in touch with me.
The pad comes off by simply pulling from the bottom edge upward. And yes you have to apply pulling/pushing pressure with your knees and free arm whilst (love that word!) using a blunt tipped air hammer. BTW the nut size is 24mm.
Rob Grady

opethmike
12-22-2014, 06:20 PM
Just yank on the steering wheel as hard as you can. Don't worry about it flying anywhere, I've found that one's face will stop it nicely.

PJ Grady Inc.
12-22-2014, 06:37 PM
Just yank on the steering wheel as hard as you can. Don't worry about it flying anywhere, I've found that one's face will stop it nicely.
Actually that is what the loose nut is for but if you insist!!! How does that work for you?
Rob

opethmike
12-22-2014, 06:46 PM
Actually that is what the loose nut is for but if you insist!!! How does that work for you?
Rob

For some reason, women don't talk to me anymore.

PJ Grady Inc.
12-22-2014, 06:51 PM
For some reason, women don't talk to me anymore.

LOL! Maybe if you keep stopping the wheel with your face things will change for the better and the girls will talk to you again?
Rob

OverlandMan
12-23-2014, 08:20 AM
We have factory "Blem" NOS wheels that were removed at the east coast (Sommerville NJ) prep center when the cars were new. I had a couple hundred when I bought them 30 years ago and am down to twenty or thirty left. If you're still looking for a wheel get in touch with me.
The pad comes off by simply pulling from the bottom edge upward. And yes you have to apply pulling/pushing pressure with your knees and free arm whilst (love that word!) using a blunt tipped air hammer. BTW the nut size is 24mm.
Rob Grady

Thanks guys. I actually recently purchased a used but darn nice original wheel from a member here. It's been sitting on my workbench for a week now and I'm ready to swap it out.

Thanks for the heads up on the pad removal and nut size. I'll have to make sure I've got a socket that big. I might in my 1/2" drive set.

Merry Christmas!

PJ Grady Inc.
12-23-2014, 10:25 AM
Thanks guys. I actually recently purchased a used but darn nice original wheel from a member here. It's been sitting on my workbench for a week now and I'm ready to swap it out.

Thanks for the heads up on the pad removal and nut size. I'll have to make sure I've got a socket that big. I might in my 1/2" drive set.

Merry Christmas!

Whoops...I meant 22mm!

OverlandMan
12-25-2014, 12:42 PM
Whoops...I meant 22mm!

I swapped out the steering wheel yesterday. Turned out to be super easy. I didn't even need the air chisel. 5 minute job! Thanks for the info!

cdrusn
03-04-2016, 06:10 PM
The problem with those who have pulled out the threads when installing a steering wheel puller is you are using the wrong size bolts. The threads in the steering wheel are not metric at all they are standard, maybe the steering wheel was made in England. They are 1/4 28 fine threads. They screw in perfectly with no looseness, nice firm installation. Make sure you screw them in until they bottom out to make sure you are fully engaged. I just did mine and it popped off with no air chisel or bear hug. You could even make a wheel puller if you have some thick flat bar and big bolt for the center or auto zone loans the whole kit for free. Why make an easy job so hard?:grouphugg:

Silverbullet
03-05-2016, 02:36 AM
ok, you could use a puller.. but "if" you have 2 people and a air chisel loosen the nut... do not remove, one guy pulls on the steering wheel, the other hits it with the air chisel in a blink it is loose, remove nut and the wheel is in your hand...

DMCMW Dave
03-05-2016, 12:47 PM
ok, you could use a puller.. but "if" you have 2 people and a air chisel loosen the nut... do not remove, one guy pulls on the steering wheel, the other hits it with the air chisel in a blink it is loose, remove nut and the wheel is in your hand...

Bear hug the wheel with your left arm and use the air chisel in your right.

jamesrguk
03-10-2016, 06:13 PM
The problem with those who have pulled out the threads when installing a steering wheel puller is you are using the wrong size bolts. The threads in the steering wheel are not metric at all they are standard, maybe the steering wheel was made in England. They are 1/4 28 fine threads. They screw in perfectly with no looseness, nice firm installation. Make sure you screw them in until they bottom out to make sure you are fully engaged. I just did mine and it popped off with no air chisel or bear hug. You could even make a wheel puller if you have some thick flat bar and big bolt for the center or auto zone loans the whole kit for free. Why make an easy job so hard?:grouphugg:

This baby represents my first dabble into arc welding and has removed more DeLorean steering wheels than I care to remember.

40739

Despite being very primitive with my best 'pigeon poo' welding and intended for a single use, laughably it has literally travelled the world via post to help people remove their wheels.

The right threads are crucial or you will just pull the threads straight out of the hub, I have seen that before, not a big issue though as you can just tap them a size larger.

But the right puller will remove even the most stubborn wheel with relative ease. I had a really stubborn one once so I just got plenty of tension on the puller and then bumped the side of the wheel with the palm of my hand while I torqued the central nut and off it popped.

Funny how sometimes those little tools you cobble together turn out to come in handy again and again and again...

J

P.s I actually have no idea where in the world it currently resides