Hunt for Walter Coe's cars

[Lightning]

Anyone know who bought all of Walter's cars, specifically the red paneled car? I'd like to get some numbers out of the door as my car has the doors that were on that car prior (so I didn't have to strip my doors) but we swapped locks. I'd like to get the numbers out of the head unit should I ever need Huston to cut a new blank. I'll trade ya numbers for the ones I have :)

[TTait]

I believe if you send James Espey a good photo of your key, he can decode it for you, and obviously cut you a fresh one if needed.

You might also just pull the lock cylinders and take them to a locksmith and have him rebuild the locks to work with your key. I believe they are volvo door locks.

Pulling the lock is relatively easy:
Remove the upper door panel, disconnect the rod from the lock at the bell crank, and pull the locking plate off the back of the lock. Teh pull the lock through the outside of the door along with the rod - done. Reverse to reinstall.

[jwrayth]

Door lock X-refs to a Rover SD-1 or an Austin Metro. I needed to replace my drivers side door-lock this time last year after an attempted break-in. Nabbed one on flea-bay and adjusted the pins to fit my existing key by extracting as many good ones from the damaged lock and combining with ones from the new lock.

You can buy them in the UK here. (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-CWC102250)

[Jonathan]

You can also find a local locksmith with a code based key cutting machine (like this):

http://www.kaba-ilco.com/key-systems/products/key-machines/traditional-edge-cut/805342-804544/ilco-ez-code-ii.html

Take your key with you and they will determine the code and cut you new keys from that code. You may well need to explain why you are there asking for the code and you might need to show them your ownership or registration (or just drive there in your DeLorean).

I bought a replacement ignition cylinder assembly from a parts car a year or two ago and it came with one poorly cut key and no code. They were able to determine the correct code for this lock cylinder, provide the blanks and cut me a couple keys. All in for less than $40 and that included a can of their Krown brand "better than WD40" type stuff. The key I had originally was crap too as it got cut with a staggered symmetry (from one side to the other). The new keys work amazingly well.

Just another option for you if locating your headliner key code doesn't work (as it didn't for me with either my replacement ignition cylinder or my original door locks... I got my car in 2007 with no door keys if you can believe the idiocy of that, so those locks got replaced a long time ago and were rekeyed at the same time as the replacement cubby hole door and lock that also wasn't included with my car.)

[Lightning]

I guess part of the reason I want to find the owner is that the car is one of the two key cars at the time hence me doing a lock swap. I'm not sure they even realize their headliner codes are invalid for them.

[David T]

I guess part of the reason I want to find the owner is that the car is one of the two key cars at the time hence me doing a lock swap. I'm not sure they even realize their headliner codes are invalid for them.

Just put the key in a photocopier and make a copy of it. Scan it and send it to DMCH and they can decode it. You should always have at least 2 keys (4 if you have the 2 key system). One set should be put away and not used so it doesn't get worn and can be used as a "master". To keep the locks lasting as long as possible you should lubricate them annually with dry graphite. You can get it at a locksmith and some large auto stores. A little goes a long way and be careful it is messy. Another way to prolong the life of the locks is to get a remote door unlocking system. Always be very careful to insert the key into the door locks VERY CAREFULLY. Early on DMC realized they had problems with the blanks and cylinders for the 2 key system and one of the first ST's was sent out just because of this. Refer to ST-02-6/81. Take good care of your 2 key systems, DMCH does not support it anymore and if you have problems they will tell you to convert to the 1 key (newer) system.

[rdarlington]

My local locksmith didn't cut any test keys when trying to decode my existing key, and cut two very expensive blanks incorrectly. I then had James Espy / DeLorean.com cut me 2 new ones based on the key code on the sticker under the steering column. Well, that key works in one direction but not the other (flipped over). I'm still sitting below 5000 miles on the clock so I can't imagine the lock is worn. Just a friendly "buyer beware". The folks at DeLorean were at least kind enough to not charge me $75 twice for two keys. It was one code cut and one copy, but neither works right.

-Bob

[David T]

My local locksmith didn't cut any test keys when trying to decode my existing key, and cut two very expensive blanks incorrectly. I then had James Espy / DeLorean.com cut me 2 new ones based on the key code on the sticker under the steering column. Well, that key works in one direction but not the other (flipped over). I'm still sitting below 5000 miles on the clock so I can't imagine the lock is worn. Just a friendly "buyer beware". The folks at DeLorean were at least kind enough to not charge me $75 twice for two keys. It was one code cut and one copy, but neither works right.

-Bob

You cannot go by "just" mileage anymore because of the age of the cars. You would be surprised by just how much the locks can wear, the parts are made of rather soft metals like zinc die castings. A little dirt and no lubrication and they can wear quickly. The very best way to do locks is to remove them and send them out to a locksmith so he can make sure everything is working properly and lubricated. The service DMCH is more for convenience. A very good locksmith for old car locks is Jesser Car Locks. He is at a lot of the large East Coast car shows.

[DMC5180]

My local locksmith didn't cut any test keys when trying to decode my existing key, and cut two very expensive blanks incorrectly. I then had James Espy / DeLorean.com cut me 2 new ones based on the key code on the sticker under the steering column. Well, that key works in one direction but not the other (flipped over). I'm still sitting below 5000 miles on the clock so I can't imagine the lock is worn. Just a friendly "buyer beware". The folks at DeLorean were at least kind enough to not charge me $75 twice for two keys. It was one code cut and one copy, but neither works right.

-Bob

For your key to work both ways requires that the key be made with the exact same cut on both sides. (mirror image) Assuming this is the case, it is possible the code cut blank was not clamped in the cutting machine properly. One side may be good while the other is off slightly. Then when the duplicate key was cut, whom ever did the cutting flipped the master to replicate the opposite side. (normally not necessary) This would explain why your duplicate key only works one way also.

When I purchase my car 20 yrs ago the Original owner had lost the keys ( 1 key system). He had a local lock smith literally hand cut (file) an Ilco blank to fit the Ignition/door lock. The notches were completely different on each cut side. The key only worked one way. I put up with it for a while back then because I had no way of knowing what the OE key code was (pre-internet days) This was also before OE style replacement key blanks were available. Several years pasted before it was made known that Original Lock Key codes were written on the Upper door under the headliner and on the Sticker under the steering column lower cover. My sticker was there but illegible. Fortunately the code was on the upper door. I took the info to a real lock smith (not the hardware store) He took the code and looked it up in his master data base under Delorean DMC-12 (yes it is listed). It gave the various Key blank cross references. In this case (Ilco VO73) He went to his huge board of key blanks and pulled two down. Then he proceeded to cut (one side) of one key to the CODE listed settings. This key was cut with with a machine that had rotary mill bit on it's side that travelled across the blank. This left a precise and smooth cut surface.
He then took that (MASTER Key profile) and replicated it on a traditional duplicate key cutting machine on both sides of the 2nd Ilco key Blank. I took the key out to my car and tested it in all the Locks including the the cubby with the key flipped both ways. Once that key was confirmed GOOD, I had him cut my replacement OE style Key blanks. He charged me $10 for the key cut by code plus the cost of 2 Ilco blanks $2 ea. I supplied my 2 OE blanks and he cut those for an extra $5. Not too bad to finally have OE style keys for my D.

[David T]

For your key to work both ways requires that the key be made with the exact same cut on both sides. (mirror image) Assuming this is the case, it is possible the code cut blank was not clamped in the cutting machine properly. One side may be good while the other is off slightly. Then when the duplicate key was cut, whom ever did the cutting flipped the master to replicate the opposite side. (normally not necessary) This would explain why your duplicate key only works one way also.

When I purchase my car 20 yrs ago the Original owner had lost the keys ( 1 key system). He had a local lock smith literally hand cut (file) an Ilco blank to fit the Ignition/door lock. The notches were completely different on each cut side. The key only worked one way. I put up with it for a while back then because I had no way of knowing what the OE key code was (pre-internet days) This was also before OE style replacement key blanks were available. Several years pasted before it was made known that Original Lock Key codes were written on the Upper door under the headliner and on the Sticker under the steering column lower cover. My sticker was there but illegible. Fortunately the code was on the upper door. I took the info to a real lock smith (not the hardware store) He took the code and looked it up in his master data base under Delorean DMC-12 (yes it is listed). It gave the various Key blank cross references. In this case (Ilco VO73) He went to his huge board of key blanks and pulled two down. Then he proceeded to cut (one side) of one key to the CODE listed settings. This key was cut with with a machine that had rotary mill bit on it's side that travelled across the blank. This left a precise and smooth cut surface.
He then took that (MASTER Key profile) and replicated it on a traditional duplicate key cutting machine on both sides of the 2nd Ilco key Blank. I took the key out to my car and tested it in all the Locks including the the cubby with the key flipped both ways. Once that key was confirmed GOOD, I had him cut my replacement OE style Key blanks. He charged me $10 for the key cut by code plus the cost of 2 Ilco blanks $2 ea. I supplied my 2 OE blanks and he cut those for an extra $5. Not too bad to finally have OE style keys for my D.

Every time you make a copy of a copy you lose accuracy. It is referred to as "generations". The most accurate is to cut by code. That won't always work because the locks wear so locksmiths will fudge that a little and make the cuts slightly taller (especially for old cars). When you copy a key cut by code the copy will never be exactly the same as the code key and if you make another copy of the copied key, it is going to be off a little bit more. You want to have at least one key made by code. Do not use it regularly and if you ever need another key use IT to make copies. Try to never copy a copy. Use good blanks, not aluminum, they will wear too fast and break too easily. Think of a key made to code as a digital copy. They will always come out the same (assuming you are using good accurate equipment properly). Think of a copy as an analog. Every time you make another copy you lose some accuracy. BTW, the cubby doesn't use all of the cuts, it has less tumblers. The passenger door lock is usually a lot less worn than the driver's door or the ignition so that is the place to test keys.

[DMC5180]

Every time you make a copy of a copy you lose accuracy. It is referred to as "generations". The most accurate is to cut by code. That won't always work because the locks wear so locksmiths will fudge that a little and make the cuts slightly taller (especially for old cars). When you copy a key cut by code the copy will never be exactly the same as the code key and if you make another copy of the copied key, it is going to be off a little bit more. You want to have at least one key made by code. Do not use it regularly and if you ever need another key use IT to make copies. Try to never copy a copy. Use good blanks, not aluminum, they will wear too fast and break too easily. Think of a key made to code as a digital copy. They will always come out the same (assuming you are using good accurate equipment properly). Think of a copy as an analog. Every time you make another copy you lose some accuracy. BTW, the cubby doesn't use all of the cuts, it has less tumblers. The passenger door lock is usually a lot less worn than the driver's door or the ignition so that is the place to test keys.

All good points!

I have the ( one sided ) code cut master profile key.

The test key and subsequent OE style blanks were cut from it as opposed to just copying the test key.

[rdarlington]

In my case, my key was cut by code by delorean.com and still was off (only works one way, not flipped over). Oh, and I am a locksmith! Or at least I was 20 years ago. ALOA trained and all that jazz. Just no code cutter, and I learned 20 years ago to never do cars. Every model takes a different kind of lock and different keyway. Too much work!

-Bob