Bringing my DeLorean back to life

[Justin51982]

I decided to make this thread so as I go along, I don't have to make different threads on the same car.

With all fluids changed and the fact that I am waiting for a cheapo fuel pump in order to start flushing and cleaning the fuel system, I decided I would go ahead and get a jump start on ripping the interior out and sorting through the many, many electrical gremlins I know are there.

Hopefully this weekend I can get the dash out and sort out the mess behind there, but for now, seats are out, carpet is done, rear bulkhead panels removed....I started on the lighting system and have now been able to get some activity out of the tail lights....still nothing for the turn signals, but I didn't work too hard on them tonight.

My connectors are pretty corroded and so I'm using a salt and vinegar mix then using a baking soda/water solution to neutralize the first solution, its working pretty well and I guess I'll just continue from the engine compartment and make my way forward, repairing and replacing as I need to.

32309

[Riley88]

Gonna keep tabs on your thread. I'll be going through and cleaning connectors in mine as well soon when I upgrade to all led

[DMC-81]

I found that oxalic acid works well in dissolving rust in sockets, rust stains on the marker lights, etc. Among other sources, it can be found at ACE under the brand CAP. I used 400 grit sandpaper with it on the sockets and a q-tip and patience on the marker lights.

[David T]

I found that oxalic acid works well in dissolving rust in sockets, rust stains on the marker lights, etc. Among other sources, it can be found at ACE under the brand CAP. I used 400 grit sandpaper with it on the sockets and a q-tip and patience on the marker lights.

My suggestion to "bringing it back to life" is to get it running as quickly as you can doing as little as necessary. Of course it doesn't mean cutting corners but the theory is if you can drive it at all you can figure out what needs attention and what is OK. Depending on how long and how bad the car is commonly the main issues are the battery, the fuel system, and the brake/clutch systems. That should be enough for the car to at least move under it's own power so you can determine what else needs to be done. Once you can drive it and see what works you make up a list and then work on one system at a time. This approach keeps the immediate work load small enough so that you do not get overwhelmed. It also fits a budget better breaking the job up into small pieces. It builds confidence and you get to see progress quickly.
The other way is to tear the whole car apart and do a full or partial restoration. A huge job that takes a LOT longer. Beyond the abilities of most and a sure way to fail when you run out of enthusiasm.

[skill]

I found that oxalic acid works well in dissolving rust in sockets, rust stains on the marker lights, etc. Among other sources, it can be found at ACE under the brand CAP. I used 400 grit sandpaper with it on the sockets and a q-tip and patience on the marker lights.

Thanks for this tip. oxalic acid looks like it does wonders.:)

[Justin51982]

My suggestion to "bringing it back to life" is to get it running as quickly as you can doing as little as necessary. Of course it doesn't mean cutting corners but the theory is if you can drive it at all you can figure out what needs attention and what is OK. Depending on how long and how bad the car is commonly the main issues are the battery, the fuel system, and the brake/clutch systems. That should be enough for the car to at least move under it's own power so you can determine what else needs to be done. Once you can drive it and see what works you make up a list and then work on one system at a time. This approach keeps the immediate work load small enough so that you do not get overwhelmed. It also fits a budget better breaking the job up into small pieces. It builds confidence and you get to see progress quickly.
The other way is to tear the whole car apart and do a full or partial restoration. A huge job that takes a LOT longer. Beyond the abilities of most and a sure way to fail when you run out of enthusiasm.



David, I totally agree with your approach. Go as far as you can you'll see a lot further from there. The money can be spent on what's needed first versus just trying to fix everything.

[DMC-81]

Edit: the brand at ACE is Snowcap. I knew there was a cap in there somewhere. :hmm:


I found that oxalic acid works well in dissolving rust in sockets, rust stains on the marker lights, etc. Among other sources, it can be found at ACE under the brand CAP. I used 400 grit sandpaper with it on the sockets and a q-tip and patience on the marker lights.

[TTait]

My suggestion to "bringing it back to life" is to get it running as quickly as you can doing as little as necessary.

One thing you can't skip though is a good safety inspection - get under the entire car - preferably up on a lift. Check the frame and suspension for damaged components. Lube the suspension and angle drive. Check the tires. Pull the wheels and inspect the brakes. Suspension/Steering and brakes have to be working before anything else.

Secondary to that, make sure you don't damage the car. Cooling system, lubrication, and basic electrical. If anything grinds, overheats, burns, or melts you won't be happy.

Then drive. Every time you park the car pull out your phone and add to the list.

Don't expect the list to ever be completed - it's a living thing. Hopefully someday though you will find it filled with more trivial issues and wish list items.

BTW - Several vendors (DMC and Hervey, maybe others) offer "restoration" pricing - for example if you spend $1500, then all subsequent orders for a year are 10% off. This may affect your purchasing strategy. I think you purchased the car from Hervey, I'd suggest reading a few threads here and there to help you decide what you want to buy where.

[David T]

One thing you can't skip though is a good safety inspection - get under the entire car - preferably up on a lift. Check the frame and suspension for damaged components. Lube the suspension and angle drive. Check the tires. Pull the wheels and inspect the brakes. Suspension/Steering and brakes have to be working before anything else.

Secondary to that, make sure you don't damage the car. Cooling system, lubrication, and basic electrical. If anything grinds, overheats, burns, or melts you won't be happy.

Then drive. Every time you park the car pull out your phone and add to the list.

Don't expect the list to ever be completed - it's a living thing. Hopefully someday though you will find it filled with more trivial issues and wish list items.

BTW - Several vendors (DMC and Hervey, maybe others) offer "restoration" pricing - for example if you spend $1500, then all subsequent orders for a year are 10% off. This may affect your purchasing strategy. I think you purchased the car from Hervey, I'd suggest reading a few threads here and there to help you decide what you want to buy where.


When I said get it running quick I didn't mean to go out onto the highway and drive 60 MPH. Just getting it to move under it's own power can tell you a lot even if it is only in your driveway. Of course you should examine the car thoroughly and service (grease) it. Yes, the venders do have discount pricing and you save shipping but only if you can afford to. For many, most of the time, it is best to keep the project to small, easy to do jobs rather than to big. time and money consuming projects. Among the first things a new owner should do is the paperwork. By that I mean insurance, Title and registration. That way you KNOW you own it before you start spending a lot of time and money on the car. I keep what I call a "Squawk Sheet" and after each drive if I notice anything that needs attention I make a note of it. Keeps you from forgetting to take care of it and helps to prioritize what needs to be done. At first it seems all you do is add to the list. Slowly, as you take care of each item, eventually the list will start to get smaller. There will always be something. One of the first and cheapest things you can start with is to clean the car inside and out. Helps you to get to know the car while spending "quality time" with it.

[Justin51982]

When I said get it running quick I didn't mean to go out onto the highway and drive 60 MPH. Just getting it to move under it's own power can tell you a lot even if it is only in your driveway. Of course you should examine the car thoroughly and service (grease) it. Yes, the venders do have discount pricing and you save shipping but only if you can afford to. For many, most of the time, it is best to keep the project to small, easy to do jobs rather than to big. time and money consuming projects. Among the first things a new owner should do is the paperwork. By that I mean insurance, Title and registration. That way you KNOW you own it before you start spending a lot of time and money on the car. I keep what I call a "Squawk Sheet" and after each drive if I notice anything that needs attention I make a note of it. Keeps you from forgetting to take care of it and helps to prioritize what needs to be done. At first it seems all you do is add to the list. Slowly, as you take care of each item, eventually the list will start to get smaller. There will always be something. One of the first and cheapest things you can start with is to clean the car inside and out. Helps you to get to know the car while spending "quality time" with it.

I, of course, agree with going through the fluid systems, brakes, etc to make sure the car is safe. I also completely agree with the get it running, try to drive it (even if just around the block) and go from there creating priorities. I gutted the interior because due to water leaking into the seals the carpet was all moldy and mildewed), and because I noticed some wiring issues and wanted to sort those out.

I've had a bunch of classic cars and you're right, they are NEVER really done. As you said, you just need to prioritize and then things become more trivial and preferential.

[Justin51982]

More done last night. Found a fried ground wire that goes to several things, and repaired it.


BEFORE:

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/Justin51982/IMG_3231_zpsb6a2dfe6.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/Justin51982/IMG_3232_zps39b296ba.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/Justin51982/IMG_3233_zpsc76d0fc6.jpg

AFTER:

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/Justin51982/IMG_3235_zps74333e0e.jpg

[DMCMW Dave]

That's what happens when you "interchange relays", specifically putting a standard relay in the blue socket.

[Justin51982]

Hopefully it's back correctly now. I'm not sure, I just repaired the damage up to this point.

[David T]

Hopefully it's back correctly now. I'm not sure, I just repaired the damage up to this point.

Although it may look black now, it was a brown wire and is definitely NOT a "ground" wire. You will know if it was fixed correctly when you try the other relays. Just some of the surprises you will uncover as you go through the car. While you are there you should check each relay, each fuse and each circuit breaker to make sure you have the correct part and the correct size in each spot.

[Justin51982]

Although it may look black now, it was a brown wire and is definitely NOT a "ground" wire. You will know if it was fixed correctly when you try the other relays. Just some of the surprises you will uncover as you go through the car. While you are there you should check each relay, each fuse and each circuit breaker to make sure you have the correct part and the correct size in each spot.

I've gone through the fuses and know they are good and correct, but I have not yet done the research to determine what relays go where. I'm sure that will be on my upcoming list to sort through....That and cleaning grounds.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Although it may look black now, it was a brown wire and is definitely NOT a "ground" wire. You will know if it was fixed correctly when you try the other relays. Just some of the surprises you will uncover as you go through the car. While you are there you should check each relay, each fuse and each circuit breaker to make sure you have the correct part and the correct size in each spot.


David that IS the common ground strip for the interchange relays and as Dave S. said can result from plugging the wrong relay. I've seen this often enough that I usually premake up a ground strip and keep it on hand for in-shop use. if anyone needs one like Justin I can supply it.
Rob Grady

[Justin51982]

It probably would have been a lot easier to have just ordered one and not that expensive.....Regardless, I tested what I could (Given the limits I have as we discussed this morning Rob), but I was able to use my Power Probe to test the circuits, most seem to operate with the fixed ground wire. Just for discussion sake, I had to reuse my female connectors and on a couple of them I'm not real happy how they came out....How much is your ground strip for that?

[PJ Grady Inc.]

It probably would have been a lot easier to have just ordered one and not that expensive.....Regardless, I tested what I could (Given the limits I have as we discussed this morning Rob), but I was able to use my Power Probe to test the circuits, most seem to operate with the fixed ground wire. Just for discussion sake, I had to reuse my female connectors and on a couple of them I'm not real happy how they came out....How much is your ground strip for that?


It's a little pricey because I make them by hand which takes about 25 minutes of shop time IIRC plus materials. I don't have one at the moment so I'll make one up to confirm the time and let you know. I'd guess-timate about $50-. It links all seven interchange relays. I use slightly heavier wire and 9 OEM connections so it's a little beefier than stock. If there is any demand I could farm it out and the cost would be less.
Rob

[Justin51982]

It's a little pricey because I make them by hand which takes about 25 minutes of shop time IIRC plus materials. I don't have one at the moment so I'll make one up to confirm the time and let you know. I'd guess-timate about $50-. It links all seven interchange relays. I use slightly heavier wire and 9 OEM connections so it's a little beefier than stock. If there is any demand I could farm it out and the cost would be less.
Rob


I know it takes time...Took me about 45 minutes to do it in the car....it's tedious.

[Bitsyncmaster]

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8647-New-Relay-bank-ground-harness&highlight=ground+buss

Front Relay Bank Ground Buss, $15. $10 if combined with another product.

[David T]

David that IS the common ground strip for the interchange relays and as Dave S. said can result from plugging the wrong relay. I've seen this often enough that I usually premake up a ground strip and keep it on hand for in-shop use. if anyone needs one like Justin I can supply it.
Rob Grady

Ooops. Anyway it does make for a good show when you mix and match the wrong relays.

[DMCMW Dave]

Ooops. Anyway it does make for a good show when you mix and match the wrong relays.

Yes - the magic smoke escapes from the wiring rather violently.

[alexwolf1216]

Yes - the magic smoke escapes from the wiring rather violently.

I always enjoyed a good game of Relay Roulette.

[Chris 16409]

You don't want to have to buy this:

32343

[banzai]

Is there any way to tell if my clutch is functioning, I installed a new master cylinder and replaced tubing from master to slave and bleed the system, but don't see any movement.
The dmc is raised on horses and Engine doesn't run yet.
Banzai


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[David T]

Is there any way to tell if my clutch is functioning, I installed a new master cylinder and replaced tubing from master to slave and bleed the system, but don't see any movement.
The dmc is raised on horses and Engine doesn't run yet.
Banzai


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You probably did not completely bleed all of the air out of the clutch slave. When the clutch pedal is depressed you should see the fork move at the slave cylinder going into the clutch.

[Rich]

Is there any way to tell if my clutch is functioning, I installed a new master cylinder and replaced tubing from master to slave and bleed the system, but don't see any movement.

Yes, with the wheels up, the engine off and the gearbox in any gear, maybe 1st or 2nd as a suggestion, it is possible to check clutch operation without engine working.

You will need to block one rear wheel in place for the test, though. Or rest one rear wheel on the ground for test. And you will need a helper.

With car in gear and one rear wheel blocked or on ground the free rear wheel will not rotate by hand with clutch engaged (out). Then press the clutch pedal to the floor with car gearshift still in 1st or 2nd gear and the free wheel should rotate by hand, proving clutch is disengaging.

Of course, if you can somehow see that the clutch fork is not moving when clutch pedal is pressed then you don't need to run this test.

[Justin51982]

Got more done tonight. The tail light circuit boards weren't functioning properly, no brake lights and intermittent tail lights. Following this:

http://deloreanrestoration.blogspot.com/2010/04/tail-light-circuit-boards.html#comment-form

I took my Circuit boards from:

BEFORE:

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/Justin51982/IMG_3236_zpsa2a1618e.jpg

AFTER:

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j61/Justin51982/IMG_3237_zps3bb95420.jpg

....and now the brake lights and tail lights are functioning, haven't had a chance to test the reverse lights or turn signals yet as they don't work, but no worries, they are on the soon to tackle list.

I'll be happy once the bulk of the wiring is sorted and fixed.....it's a tedious process.