Tie rod end boot replacement

[berickson926]

While under the car I noticed the rubber boots on the the tie rod ends of the steering rack are in really bad shape and look cracked.

Is it possible to just unscrew the top bolt and replace the boot itself? I'm looking at this part. (http://store.delorean.com/p-7315-boot-lwr-ball-jointtie-rod-end.aspx)

The next best thing would be to just replace the entire tie rod end (http://store.delorean.com/p-7279-tie-rod-end.aspx), but the service manual starts going into the entire realignment process (H:08:01).

I don't have any experience doing car alignment and I don't have the 'suitable tracking equipment' or magical wooden block they are referencing. Is it a necessary part of the repair procedure?

[Chris 16409]

If the tie rods are not worn (no slop) then you can probably just replace the boots and be done with it. I believe John Hervey will sell you replacement to rod end boots. Look on his website.

Edit: sorry I didn't see the link you posted went to Houston's web site. Yeah I would just buy two of those. Unless, you notice the joint is all loosey goosey.

[David T]

If the tie rods are not worn (no slop) then you can probably just replace the boots and be done with it. I believe John Hervey will sell you replacement to rod end boots. Look on his website.

Edit: sorry I didn't see the link you posted went to Houston's web site. Yeah I would just buy two of those. Unless, you notice the joint is all loosey goosey.

It isn't "just" unscrewing a nut. The shaft of the tie rod end is a taper fit into the steering knuckle. After loosening the nut you must force the shaft out either by hammering, using a "pickle fork" or a puller. Once you get the joint apart it is very simple to remove and replace the boot. Put plenty of grease in the tie rod before putting the new boot on. If you do not disturb the threaded tie rod you will not change the toe. This does not mean you will not need an alignment, you may need one even before you touch the tie rod ends. Are the tires wearing evenly and is the steering wheel centered when you are going straight on a flat road? If not you probably need an alignment. If you do need an alignment let the shop change the boots.

[DMC-81]

Hi. To add to what Dave posted, I'll share my experience as I recently did this. My tie rods were tight but the boots were disintegrated, so I used the original DMC boot that you have linked to. Assuming that you need to use a tie rod separator, you may also need 2 of part # 105258 to hold the upper end tight. You may destroy/stretch this clip with a separator / pickle fork. Also, the lower clip that looks like a spring is no longer available, so if yours are still good, take them down and away from the tie rod as you may also damage or destroy them when you separate it. See this picture for what I mean:
32320

If you are going to bang on the top, make sure the nut is still there and bang on the nut, not the bolt, as you may damage the threads. This technique didn't work and I had to use a separator anyway. I also bought new 3/8-24" stainless nyloc nuts as well.

Here is a pic of the finished boot. I was happy with the parts. Good luck!

32322

[berickson926]

Took a pic of the front passenger side.

After hearing everyone's advice maybe I'm better off just letting DMC CA tackle this, so I don't make things worse. The lower control arm boot looks just as deteriorated and I probably should just get everything done at once.

Thanks for the feedback once again!

32325

[TTait]

Replacing the tie rod end is pretty straight forward - you can do it yourself. Danny does not have an alignment rack, so they are going to have to sub out the alignment anyway, and the install is pretty easy. Maybe you still want to try it yourself?

I'd try it this way...

If you first put the car on jack stands, remove the wheel, remove the clevice pin and nut and pry out the Tie rod end using a fork (you can borrow one from Auto Zone). Grease up the old bolt on the tie rod end, Then carefully reinsert it just enough to hold the front in position, but don't torque down the top castle nut. Then put the tire back on, and set the wheel on a wheel ramp. Now your alignment is "locked". You will have a lot less room to work if the wheel is installed, but you don't need much access for this part. Unhook the old tie rod end again (should be pretty easy this time, and remove it from the tie rod. Put the new one on, and adjust the length so it inserts easily into the front hub. Tighten the locking nut on the tie rod that locks the tie rod end in position, and start the castle nut, tightening it as best you can. Put the car back on the jack stand and remove the front wheel again - install the castle nut and the clevice pin, and re-install the front wheel. The alignment will be darned close to where it was before.

You can then repeat on the other wheel.

Alignment may be out a bit, but its good enough to drive a few miles.

Now take the car in for an alignment at your local shop. When you pick it up make sure the steering wheel is still centered - or make them do it again.

I've made this up particular procedure just now - but it should work. I've only replaced the tie rod ends along while replacing the rack - but this should let you swap the tie rod ends and still maintain a rough alignment. Even with the back and forth of the jack stands and wheel ramp it will probably take you less than an hour for the first tie rod end, and 45 minutes for the second one.

[Dangermouse]

When I did mine, I "counted" the number of turns it took to remove the old tie-rod, and installed the new one the same number of turns and it worked out fine.

(I did need to use a little heat on the connection to get it to turn, as it was locked in there pretty well, so be prepared)

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Replacing the tie rod end is pretty straight forward - you can do it yourself. Danny does not have an alignment rack, so they are going to have to sub out the alignment anyway, and the install is pretty easy. Maybe you still want to try it yourself?

I'd try it this way...

If you first put the car on jack stands, remove the wheel, remove the clevice pin and nut and pry out the Tie rod end using a fork (you can borrow one from Auto Zone). Grease up the old bolt on the tie rod end, Then carefully reinsert it just enough to hold the front in position, but don't torque down the top castle nut. Then put the tire back on, and set the wheel on a wheel ramp. Now your alignment is "locked". You will have a lot less room to work if the wheel is installed, but you don't need much access for this part. Unhook the old tie rod end again (should be pretty easy this time, and remove it from the tie rod. Put the new one on, and adjust the length so it inserts easily into the front hub. Tighten the locking nut on the tie rod that locks the tie rod end in position, and start the castle nut, tightening it as best you can. Put the car back on the jack stand and remove the front wheel again - install the castle nut and the clevice pin, and re-install the front wheel. The alignment will be darned close to where it was before.

You can then repeat on the other wheel.


Alignment may be out a bit, but its good enough to drive a few miles.

Now take the car in for an alignment at your local shop. When you pick it up make sure the steering wheel is still centered - or make them do it again.

I've made this up particular procedure just now - but it should work. I've only replaced the tie rod ends along while replacing the rack - but this should let you swap the tie rod ends and still maintain a rough alignment. Even with the back and forth of the jack stands and wheel ramp it will probably take you less than an hour for the first tie rod end, and 45 minutes for the second one.


A "pickle fork" can damage the tie rod end if it's on very tight. An actual "tie rod remover" is the best tool if you can find it.