BTTF Time Machine Build Questions - Ask Me Anything

[cpistocco]

The jewel lights are 1", the sound affects are a little complicated and I don't want to highjack this topic anymore than I have already, tho here's a handy tip on how to make the plexi work using a heat gun, original cover and some masking tape....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/200ce33e5ccba119d5558e341c6ad20d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/a0e3f9d87b64cb5dc83c338372f132ed.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/25a29377b97db540ab00cd2e3ffd3af9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/246e7863f26b113d799729b7f626ec5a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/d7f13b3d12ec78df3b256f16ad845ee1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/b2952d0d71eca2de71f54fb368cab223.jpg

Thank You.
That is pretty much how I bent the plexi....finally! :)
Just to be clear, are the lights 1 inch, or are the holes 1 inch?
If I message you, can you clue me in on the sound effects? I assume you use sound chips....
Thanks
Charlie

[cpistocco]

Thanks for the kind words, I just try to help out wherever I can :-)

YES!
Thank You to Mark, Steven, and all of the other folks who are so self-less with their time and knowledge.
Bravo to all !
Sincerely,
-Charlie

[minispeedstar]

Thank You.
That is pretty much how I bent the plexi....finally! :)
Just to be clear, are the lights 1 inch, or are the holes 1 inch?
If I message you, can you clue me in on the sound effects? I assume you use sound chips....
Thanks
Charlie

1" hole about 1-1/8" lens. The hex is simply the securing nut above rather than below securing.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/8593325809e97fcb9be725c538426d7f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/a8b56d3830123c48f1dcc34fa700abf8.jpg

[cpistocco]

1" hole about 1-1/8" lens. The hex is simply the securing nut above rather than below securing.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/8593325809e97fcb9be725c538426d7f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/a8b56d3830123c48f1dcc34fa700abf8.jpg

Thank You again!
I have been searching on ebay and amazon....and I cant seem to find a pilot light with a 1-1/8 lens. I have been looking at dialco lights as well. Can I ask you where you are purchasing yours. I appreciate all of the spoon-feeding. :)
Sincerely
Charlie

[mluder]

Thank You again!
I have been searching on ebay and amazon....and I cant seem to find a pilot light with a 1-1/8 lens. I have been looking at dialco lights as well. Can I ask you where you are purchasing yours. I appreciate all of the spoon-feeding. :)
Sincerely
Charlie

a 1" fixture is what you want... It's called out by the size of the hole it fits - In this case a 1" fixture which has a lens that's slightly larger.

Cheers
Steve

[minispeedstar]

[emoji1312]what Steve said :)

[cpistocco]

[emoji1312]what Steve said :)

Thanks again guys.
I am having a hard time finding those lights.....any suggestions where to get them?
Also, what size hole does the stop switch take?
It looks like 1-1/2 inch.
-Charlie :0)

[Mark D]

Thanks again guys.
I am having a hard time finding those lights.....any suggestions where to get them?
Also, what size hole does the stop switch take?
It looks like 1-1/2 inch.
-Charlie :0)


Red w/ faceted jewel:
031-0431-300
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Dialight/031-0432-300/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujexoi2Nigv0hdRRK5vZwAudvcSiODNJ3LO cukhUkHr7Q%3d%3d
or
http://www.newark.com/dialight/031-0431-300/lens-cap/dp/50F6063?ost=031-0431-300&selectedCategoryId=&categoryNameResp=All&searchView=table&iscrfnonsku=false


Green w/ faceted jewel:
031-0432-300
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Dialight/031-0432-300/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujexoi2Nigv0hdRRK5vZwAudvcSiODNJ3LO cukhUkHr7Q%3d%3d


Bulb holder base:
031-3101-01-101
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Dialight/031-3101-01-101/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhhbI8wrAryBBs4ci3mmA3KIZklHrB%2fIl LfXuhH8QDfBw%3d%3d
or
http://www.newark.com/dialight/031-3101-01-101/lamp-socket-indicator-base-screw/dp/05B3024


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49354&d=1488998054

You should also be able to search those same PN's and look for other cheaper sources, those were just the quick ones I found that had them in stock.

[minispeedstar]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/b8f5564b9c2fc6814045e56390ff7223.jpg
I'm down to my last 3 pairs but have more on the way, if you've not found any after a while let me know could prob hook u up.

["What The Flux?"]

The best information that we have is that the extra "oops" holes around the nuclear reactor ring were from a design change in the heat sink spacing sometime during the build. The reactor as we know it now has one heat sink centered on the rear of the reactor with the remaining heat sinks evenly spaced around it. Early on in the build this wasn't the case and the heat sinks were spaced differently.

Something like this:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49322&d=1488834322

The extra holes that still exist line up with the hole spacing on the heat sinks.

I can confirm with some reference photos, but as far as I know this is an A car trait only. The B car only had one set of holes that matched to the A car after the final spacing was decided.

There are a few other "oops" holes in the vents that are there for interesting reasons. There are two sets of triangularly spaced holes on the top of each vent that hold the plastic CO2 dispensing nozzle inside the vent. The nozzle could be mounted in one of two positions to blast CO2 either straight back, or up at an angle.

In the mall parking lot scene when the car returns back cold from the first time travel event with Einstein in the car, you first see the CO2 blast backwards horizontally towards the camera. Then it cuts to a wide shot immediately afterwards and you see the plume of CO2 shooting out at an upward angle.

Hi Mark,

Great detailed info as always! I am grateful for your explanation. That kinda makes sense with what I had observed from various reference images and footage from OUTATIME. I could see that the three holes per heat sinks were shifted between the final holes that we see today. I think there are a few miscellaneous holes also, but don't think it would be fair to trouble you for those. ;)

I am curious to know if you are able to kindly clarify the spacing of the two sets of triangularly spaced holes however. I have noticed that they are quite distinctive to the A car and that they are slightly different to each other. Again, I wouldn't ask you to release anything that is sensitive or of shared intellectual property, but if you are able to calrify those hole positions, that would be really awesome!

Just one last, tiny question if I may?... How many locator pins are there on the lower (side) of the yellow reactor hatch lid? I have calculated from your image that there might be three evenly spaced?

[cpistocco]

Red w/ faceted jewel:
031-0431-300
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Dialight/031-0432-300/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujexoi2Nigv0hdRRK5vZwAudvcSiODNJ3LO cukhUkHr7Q%3d%3d
or
http://www.newark.com/dialight/031-0431-300/lens-cap/dp/50F6063?ost=031-0431-300&selectedCategoryId=&categoryNameResp=All&searchView=table&iscrfnonsku=false


Green w/ faceted jewel:
031-0432-300
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Dialight/031-0432-300/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujexoi2Nigv0hdRRK5vZwAudvcSiODNJ3LO cukhUkHr7Q%3d%3d


Bulb holder base:
031-3101-01-101
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Dialight/031-3101-01-101/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhhbI8wrAryBBs4ci3mmA3KIZklHrB%2fIl LfXuhH8QDfBw%3d%3d
or
http://www.newark.com/dialight/031-3101-01-101/lamp-socket-indicator-base-screw/dp/05B3024


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49354&d=1488998054

You should also be able to search those same PN's and look for other cheaper sources, those were just the quick ones I found that had them in stock.

Thank You-
I did not realize that the assemblies had to be purchased in two pieces (4 pieces in total), That is where I was going wrong,
Much appreciated.
-Charlie

[Mark D]

Hi Mark,

Great detailed info as always! I am grateful for your explanation. That kinda makes sense with what I had observed from various reference images and footage from OUTATIME. I could see that the three holes per heat sinks were shifted between the final holes that we see today. I think there are a few miscellaneous holes also, but don't think it would be fair to trouble you for those. ;)

I am curious to know if you are able to kindly clarify the spacing of the two sets of triangularly spaced holes however. I have noticed that they are quite distinctive to the A car and that they are slightly different to each other. Again, I wouldn't ask you to release anything that is sensitive or of shared intellectual property, but if you are able to calrify those hole positions, that would be really awesome!

Just one last, tiny question if I may?... How many locator pins are there on the lower (side) of the yellow reactor hatch lid? I have calculated from your image that there might be three evenly spaced?

I can check the model for more info on the triangular spaced holes for the CO2 nozzle mounting. I shared these images a while ago with another member via email that includes the hole spacing on the RH side.

The locations on the hole positions are pretty much the highest level of detail you can get though on the vents. For it to really even matter you'd first have to have the shape of each plate correct, and then the individual plates located correctly in space relative to one another. Having an accurate engine cover is also important so you can accurately locate the whole vent assembles relative to the rest of the car.

Otherwise you'll just have a really accurate hole pattern on inaccurate parts.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49362&d=1489077236
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49361&d=1489076862

In regards to the nuclear reactor hatch, yes there are three locking pins on the cap that line up with three corresponding notches in the core. Spacing is an even 120 degrees

["What The Flux?"]

I can check the model for more info on the triangular spaced holes for the CO2 nozzle mounting. I shared these images a while ago with another member via email that includes the hole spacing on the RH side.

The locations on the hole positions are pretty much the highest level of detail you can get though on the vents. For it to really even matter you'd first have to have the shape of each plate correct, and then the individual plates located correctly in space relative to one another. Having an accurate engine cover is also important so you can accurately locate the whole vent assembles relative to the rest of the car.

Otherwise you'll just have a really accurate hole pattern on inaccurate parts.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49362&d=1489077236
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49361&d=1489076862

In regards to the nuclear reactor hatch, yes there are three locking pins on the cap that line up with three corresponding notches in the core. Spacing is an even 120 degrees

Wow! You never cease to impress Mark! Thank you very much, I appreciate that.

That's pretty much exactly what I was looking for. If you do have the time or the inclination to provide the same for the LH side, that would be epic. Again, no worries if it's not possible though, I am grateful for what you have provided already.

I completely understand about the accuate vent panels and engine cover, I'm hoping to gradually improve the accuracy as I go along and learn new info.

Thanks also for the confirmation of the locking pins.

Have a great day!

[Mark D]

It shouldn't be a problem to measure the holes on the other vent. It might take a day or two since all those files are on a different computer.

[cpistocco]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/b8f5564b9c2fc6814045e56390ff7223.jpg
I'm down to my last 3 pairs but have more on the way, if you've not found any after a while let me know could prob hook u up.
Very Kind of you Minispeedstar.... But I am going to try my best to find them on my own. I found some cheap on a site called "REXEL" ($7.00 apiece)
Thanks
Charlie

["What The Flux?"]

It shouldn't be a problem to measure the holes on the other vent. It might take a day or two since all those files are on a different computer.

Incredibly helpful! Thank you Mark.

Would it happen to be on the computer (laptop) that we saw in the OUTATIME documentary? :D

Just another quick question (sorry to be so inquisitive!), is the rear edge of the engine cover curved to match the body work of the car, or is it straight and sits underneath the rear body panel?

Thanks!

[Mark D]

Incredibly helpful! Thank you Mark.

Would it happen to be on the computer (laptop) that we saw in the OUTATIME documentary? :D

Just another quick question (sorry to be so inquisitive!), is the rear edge of the engine cover curved to match the body work of the car, or is it straight and sits underneath the rear body panel?

Thanks!

I've finally been able to upgrade to a more decent desktop machine at home to run Catia V5 which is the program all of the parts are designed in. I had a laptop during the restoration so I could work on the go during my trips out to California. Most 3D modeling programs are pretty demanding so it's nice to finally have a graphics card that is designed with modeling programs in mind.

The rear of the engine cover is slightly curved to match the curvature of the fascia. The bottom plates for the bolt on lower vent sections are also angled for the same reason. This also requires three vertical plates of the lower vent section to be slightly different.

I was describing in another post how that lower section was modified by the tram garage after production so the engine cover could be raised and lowered without removing the lower half of the vents. For the restoration undoing that modification meant having to measure what we left of the original vent bottoms and redesigning new parts back to the original state. All things considered it was one of the more challenging designs to perfect since the vents are such an important part of the time machine. It took a few weeks of collaborating back and forth with Joe and some extended measuring sessions with the real parts in hand.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49421&d=1489163336

["What The Flux?"]

I've finally been able to upgrade to a more decent desktop machine at home to run Catia V5 which is the program all of the parts are designed in. I had a laptop during the restoration so I could work on the go during my trips out to California. Most 3D modeling programs are pretty demanding so it's nice to finally have a graphics card that is designed with modeling programs in mind.

The rear of the engine cover is slightly curved to match the curvature of the fascia. The bottom plates for the bolt on lower vent sections are also angled for the same reason. This also requires three vertical plates of the lower vent section to be slightly different.

I was describing in another post how that lower section was modified by the tram garage after production so the engine cover could be raised and lowered without removing the lower half of the vents. For the restoration undoing that modification meant having to measure what we left of the original vent bottoms and redesigning new parts back to the original state. All things considered it was one of the more challenging designs to perfect since the vents are such an important part of the time machine. It took a few weeks of collaborating back and forth with Joe and some extended measuring sessions with the real parts in hand.

I know only too well of the hardware demands of 3D software! Especially as the newer generation renderers are only GPU and sometimes only an NVIDIA GPU?! I noticed you taking real measurements of the parts on a portable laptop which looked like a pretty cool and convenient setup.

Every time I read your posts on here, I learn something new and fascinating! I had no idea that the bottom most plates of the rear vents were angled like that to follow the profile of the rear lights?! It makes sense of course when you think about it. Also makes sense that the vertical plates would each have to be slightly different to allow for the bottom plate(s).

Great that you restoration guys went to so much trouble to make them authentic to 1985. Legendary work!

[Timebender]

Lots of similar available.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-PHAOSTRON-AC-VOLT-METER-GAUGE-0-250-/272570655318?hash=item3f767a2256

Cheers
Steven

I actually won it and for cheap too. However, it came in yesterday and it's kinda small- like a couple centimeters too small. The hole in the faceplate is 7cm, the gauge is 6.5 across the bezel. It looks accurate but obviously is not. :(

[Timebender]

The meter panel that fits in the glove box is cut from 1/8" thick aluminum 6061 sheet and is flat with no bend at the bottom (as someone else posted earlier)

The overall dimensions are 15 29/32 x 4 25/32. Most of the fabricated parts on the car have 'make sense' dimensions to the whole or half inch, but the meter panel is more oddly shaped for whatever reason. Either the guy who made the part was trying to hit an exact measurement to match the glove box, or he was just a little care free with his cut lines.

The top edge of the aluminum plate is also notched out for clearance to the glove box latch mechanism. Without the notch the plate will not fit correctly in the glove box.

This photo I posted a few posts back shows the upper profile of the plate.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49216&d=1488393200

This is about as detailed as I can get with dimensions.

Do you know what size the round gauges are? I got one off eBay - a Phaostron that's 2.5 inches across the bezel, but obviously too small as the holes in the faceplate are 7cm that I got from Bruce, and that's the size in the sketch on here as well.

There's one more on eBay, but it's only 2 inches in diameter.


Greg

[Mark D]

Do you know what size the round gauges are? I got one off eBay - a Phaostron that's 2.5 inches across the bezel, but obviously too small as the holes in the faceplate are 7cm that I got from Bruce, and that's the size in the sketch on here as well.

There's one more on eBay, but it's only 2 inches in diameter.


Greg

The diameter of the outer black ring of the gauge face is roughly 3.5" diameter, and the hole size in the panel should be 2.875". You should be looking for a gauges with a 631-XXXX part number. The ones from Apex are 631-19110

[Timebender]

The diameter of the outer black ring of the gauge face is roughly 3.5" diameter, and the hole size in the panel should be 2.875". You should be looking for a gauges with a 631-XXXX part number. The ones from Apex are 631-19110

Good to know. So far I've only been able to find either 2.5 inch or 2 inch on eBay. Are those phaostron that have the 631-xxxx number?


Edit: Actually found a couple on eBay cheap so they're on their way!

[Mark D]

Good to know. So far I've only been able to find either 2.5 inch or 2 inch on eBay. Are those phaostron that have the 631-xxxx number?


Edit: Actually found a couple on eBay cheap so they're on their way!

Cool, glad you found some. The originals are Phaostron 631 series as well, but the funky 0-1.0 scale version is pretty much impossible to find since it was a US government only part and not something available to the general public. A long time ago we tried to have Phaostron do a run of parts for us but they were not able to due to it being a US Gov only part.

[Timebender]

And I found one more today at a local electronics and industrial supply place for super cheap.

[Revol2]

And I found one more today at a local electronics and industrial supply place for super cheap.
You are lucky! :)
I'm like a donkey. Got 2 inches :) size from ebay

[cpistocco]

Hello again
Would anyone on this page be willing to do a BTTF parts exchange?
It seems like we are all individually re-inventing the wheel. It might make more sense for each of us to specialize in a few different parts, and then trade (or pay for) with other builders.
I think that it would be a wonderful idea if we could make it work.
( I can build tfc switches with my eyes closed now. :) ( I realize that it is probably the easiest think to build)
Just a thought....
-Charlie

[cpistocco]

Hello again
Would anyone on this page be willing to do a BTTF parts exchange?
It seems like we are all individually re-inventing the wheel. It might make more sense for each of us to specialize in a few different parts, and then trade (or pay for) with other builders.
I think that it would be a wonderful idea if we could make it work.
( I can build tfc switches with my eyes closed now. :) ( I realize that it is probably the easiest think to build)
Just a thought....
-Charlie

I should add that the only reason that I can build the switches with my eyes closed is because of the kind folks on this forum. :)

[mluder]

Good to know. So far I've only been able to find either 2.5 inch or 2 inch on eBay. Are those phaostron that have the 631-xxxx number?


Edit: Actually found a couple on eBay cheap so they're on their way!

Sorry, I sent you down the wrong road originally. I didn't notice the size was wrong.

Steve

["What The Flux?"]

The best information that we have is that the extra "oops" holes around the nuclear reactor ring were from a design change in the heat sink spacing sometime during the build. The reactor as we know it now has one heat sink centered on the rear of the reactor with the remaining heat sinks evenly spaced around it. Early on in the build this wasn't the case and the heat sinks were spaced differently.

Something like this:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49322&d=1488834322

The extra holes that still exist line up with the hole spacing on the heat sinks.

I can confirm with some reference photos, but as far as I know this is an A car trait only. The B car only had one set of holes that matched to the A car after the final spacing was decided.

There are a few other "oops" holes in the vents that are there for interesting reasons. There are two sets of triangularly spaced holes on the top of each vent that hold the plastic CO2 dispensing nozzle inside the vent. The nozzle could be mounted in one of two positions to blast CO2 either straight back, or up at an angle.

In the mall parking lot scene when the car returns back cold from the first time travel event with Einstein in the car, you first see the CO2 blast backwards horizontally towards the camera. Then it cuts to a wide shot immediately afterwards and you see the plume of CO2 shooting out at an upward angle.

Hi Mark,

I was recently watching the OUTATIME documentary and refering to what you had said about the positions of the oops holes. In my looking at these details I have noticed a few things that are of interest:


The rear most (center) heatsink seems to have only two vertically aligned screws instead of three as seen on the Jameco heat sinks.

The heat sinks seem to be very slightly different from each other and slightly offset from each other (not perfectly aligned around the 15" core base equator).

What size are the screws that hold the heat sinks to the core base?



Many thanks

[Mark D]

Hi Mark,

I was recently watching the OUTATIME documentary and refering to what you had said about the positions of the oops holes. In my looking at these details I have noticed a few things that are of interest:


The rear most (center) heatsink seems to have only two vertically aligned screws instead of three as seen on the Jameco heat sinks.

The heat sinks seem to be very slightly different from each other and slightly offset from each other (not perfectly aligned around the 15" core base equator).

What size are the screws that hold the heat sinks to the core base?



Many thanks

The center heat sink is somewhat odd, the 4 center holes are that sideways T shaped pattern vs the more common parallelogram shape that would typically fit a transistor. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with the mounting holes also being different.

The spacing is not perfectly even since the heat sinks were all spaced by hand and I'm sure there was some drill bit wandering in addition to measurements not being plotted out exactly perfect.

The heat sink mounting screws are button head cap screws, either size #10 or #12. I haven't gotten a chance yet to load up the CAD model to check those other holes you asked about, but I can check the screws too.

[Timebender]

You are lucky! :)
I'm like a donkey. Got 2 inches :) size from ebay
I'm going to have at least one extra of the full-size ones and an extra rectangular, since I found some more at the local electronics surplus store.
If you want I'll sell the one's I got on eBay for what I paid (they weren't that expensive either).

Greg

[Timebender]

Sorry, I sent you down the wrong road originally. I didn't notice the size was wrong.

Steve

No biggie - live and learn. And it was only a $16 dollar lesson after shipping.

[Timebender]

Hello again
Would anyone on this page be willing to do a BTTF parts exchange?
It seems like we are all individually re-inventing the wheel. It might make more sense for each of us to specialize in a few different parts, and then trade (or pay for) with other builders.
I think that it would be a wonderful idea if we could make it work.
( I can build tfc switches with my eyes closed now. :) ( I realize that it is probably the easiest think to build)
Just a thought....
-Charlie
I'd eventually want a TFC switch, depending on what you'd charge. Otherwise I'll make my own someday.

[cpistocco]

I'd eventually want a TFC switch, depending on what you'd charge. Otherwise I'll make my own someday.

Would you buy the parts....or would I?
- I feel like half the battle is getting your hands on the correct parts! :)

[Timebender]

Would you buy the parts....or would I?
- I feel like half the battle is getting your hands on the correct parts! :)

I can get the parts, which might be close to accurate but probably not 100% which to be honest is okey dokey.

[cpistocco]

I can get the parts, which might be close to accurate but probably not 100% which to be honest is okey dokey.
OK I will message you with further info. (BTW- The only "100% screen accurate" part that is NLA is the radio shack project box.) You cant even get them from Videobob anymore.

[Mark D]

OK I will message you with further info. (BTW- The only "100% screen accurate" part that is NLA is the radio shack project box.) You cant even get them from Videobob anymore.

For the record, the radio shack boxes were not even the correct box. They were just really close and what most people opted to use 10 years ago since they were readily available at the time. The actual screen used boxes were made by some other company (I'm not even sure by who off the top my my head) but some of the other enclosures in the car are from LMB Heeger.

If you want a TFC box with the exact dimensions as screen used you'd need to have parts custom fabricated. Otherwise, as others have posted, there are really close alternatives and nearly no one will be able to tell the difference.

Most of the other parts besides the box are available, but as with nearly everything things change over the years and there are slight variations. The large Dayton switch has about 10 different variations from parts built in the 60's/70's to what is available new today from Dayton. The Dialco Dialight lenses are still being made as well but there are subtle differences in the shape of the chrome bezel that is crimped around the plastic lens. If you care about accuracy as whole the differences add up pretty fast you're going to end up hunting for vintage era parts that are not as readily available as the new stuff.

In many cases it's tougher to find an accurate part when a variation of that part is still in production today. Instead of searching for a single needle in a hay stack now you're searching for that same needle but with a bunch of other close-but not-quite-the-same needles giving you false positives that you've found what you're searching for.

[cpistocco]

For the record, the radio shack boxes were not even the correct box. They were just really close and what most people opted to use 10 years ago since they were readily available at the time. The actual screen used boxes were made by some other company (I'm not even sure by who off the top my my head) but some of the other enclosures in the car are from LMB Heeger.

If you want a TFC box with the exact dimensions as screen used you'd need to have parts custom fabricated. Otherwise, as others have posted, there are really close alternatives and nearly no one will be able to tell the difference.

Most of the other parts besides the box are available, but as with nearly everything things change over the years and there are slight variations. The large Dayton switch has about 10 different variations from parts built in the 60's/70's to what is available new today from Dayton. The Dialco Dialight lenses are still being made as well but there are subtle differences in the shape of the chrome bezel that is crimped around the plastic lens. If you care about accuracy as whole the differences add up pretty fast you're going to end up hunting for vintage era parts that are not as readily available as the new stuff.

In many cases it's tougher to find an accurate part when a variation of that part is still in production today. Instead of searching for a single needle in a hay stack now you're searching for that same needle but with a bunch of other close-but not-quite-the-same needles giving you false positives that you've found what you're searching for.

Thank You Mark.... I guess that we can only try to get as close as possible... :)

[Timebender]

Well, being an R2 builder, I know mine isn't "screen accurate", but then R2 changed from not only movie to movie, but also scene to scene in the same movie. Everyone who sees him, including Disney Imagineering folks, are all pretty impressed at how film accurate he is, including the weathering, which to be honest, I just did to what I felt was good enough, looked aged, beaten and worn, and quickly tried to clean up any "mistakes". Put mine next to most other R2's, and people will swear it's the one from the movie. Accuracy, shmacuracy. We only know what's right and what's not- and I'm not trying to impress other builders anyway.

[Mark D]

It shouldn't be a problem to measure the holes on the other vent. It might take a day or two since all those files are on a different computer.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49572&d=1489541131


What size are the screws that hold the heat sinks to the core base?



#10 button head cap screws. Black oxide finish, get stainless if you don't want to worry about rust.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#97763a214/=16rafcu

[minispeedstar]

Building a TFC also depends on which scene / car your basing it on...

Restored A car:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170317/acad356a81bc885c7e6f6e269cb0f167.jpg
Film shots: extra switch and lack of labels:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170317/095b7d06d2aee6eb14a4fe34600166ce.jpg

Black sides, lack of side switches, 4 rivets each side and extra label on Dayton:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170317/c8ab09cb66c002abd7f2307da19b4470.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170317/327ab40ff85e4f3a50dcf1c052e28549.jpg

[Timebender]

And thus my comment earlier about being an R2 builder and nothing truly being "screen accurate", as in most movies things change, sometimes from film to film (if there are sequels), and other times scene to scene. The trick is to be as close to what people expect to see. I've had Lucasfilm, Disney, and even fellow R2 builders all comment on how mine is more "movie" accurate than most others, and that's only because I looked at how R2 looked in different scenes in the different films, then made the decision to stick mostly to the first one, A New Hope, but there are a few bits that are more Empire. A few builders kept one of the panels on the back of R2 silver, as there was one scene (ONE SCENE!!) where they forgot to paint that panel...

Only we know what's what for the most part. No one complains that the guy who plays Santa at the mall, really isn't.

[smcguiga]

Hey Mark, what can you tell us about the gold heatsinks inside on the back? I figure we would probably have to have them machined but do you have dimensions you can share or the misc parts that are bolted on?

Also, how are the back panels held up inside the car? For anyone who has done a conversion, what is the best way to mount them? I had planned to do my conversion without removing the back glass (for now) and was curious about how others have mounted them.

49600

Thanks!

[Mark D]

Hey Mark, what can you tell us about the gold heatsinks inside on the back? I figure we would probably have to have them machined but do you have dimensions you can share or the misc parts that are bolted on?

Also, how are the back panels held up inside the car? For anyone who has done a conversion, what is the best way to mount them? I had planned to do my conversion without removing the back glass (for now) and was curious about how others have mounted them.

49600

Thanks!

Hey Steve, The gold heat sinks were a found part that was pretty much just bolted in place unmodified. I don't think anyone has ever found real ones in the wild, and all searches for the part numbers on the heatsinks have turned up empty. They were most likely part of some larger piece of equipment that has yet to be identified. For the A car restoration the real ones were luckily still around and were cleaned up and put back in place.

People have found similar heat sinks in the past with the correct dimensions. I think I saw someone on the BTTF prop replica builders facebook page post up a model file for 3D printing. The same thing could be used to machine parts, or have a custom extrusion made.

The parts attached to the heatsinks are rectifier diodes and show up on Ebay from time to time. I'd have to dig through my files but I should have some photos of the diodes so you can see some of the details. there are different types that are similar. Here's a link to one that is similar, though not exactly correct.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/72RA150-STUD-RECTIFIER-DIODE-IR-BRAND-3-LOT-NOS-W-HARDWARE-/371889978437?hash=item56965ebc45:g:61kAAOSw4CFYxFU Q

There are also smaller diodes attached to each heatsink besides the large white ones.

For the bulkhead on the screen used cars the largest of the three panels (DS) was held in place by screwing it to the outside of the car into the fiberglass. At the bottom of the largest DS panel and the small PS panel there were also pieces of L angle mounted to the bottom of the panels that were screwed into the parcel shelf to hold them in place. If you're not planning on removing the rear window then you can still screw the panels down into the parcel shelf but you'll have to make the DS panel shorter to end before it hits the window. The DS panel will also have to sit further forward since it won't be able to pass up through the window opening. Here's a photo showing how the DS panel is secured at the top and a screen grab of a CAD layout showing the three individual panels. In addition to mounting at the top and bottom, the three panels are secured to one another with some strips of aluminum that are welded on to the back side of the panels.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49610&d=1489883332

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49608&d=1489883115

Leaving the window intact also affects how props will be mounted on the rear deck since you'll no longer have a place to attach the Janitrol tank, terminal strips, or have a place to connect the green Janitrol hose, red Aeroquip hose, and there's no place to route some of the wiring that goes into the "void" on the PS side that is open above the cars relay compartment. There is also the large zero can on the rear deck that will have to be pushed further rearward towards the engine cover since it hangs above the void through the space where the window used to be.

[smcguiga]

Thanks Mark! I wasn't sure if the inside panels were screwed to something inside the car to keep them from falling forward. I wasn't sure if on the real car the inside plate and back glass replacement plate were connected with some parts going through.

I realize leaving the back glass in causes some placement issues. I'm still pondering what I might do here...still collecting parts as of now. I figured I'd wait until I actually HAVE a janitrol replica and all of the hoses before I decide on what to do.

I saw the 3D file for the heatsink on the facebook page. I'll give those a shot!

[Timebender]

I saw the 3D file for the heatsink on the facebook page. I'll give those a shot!

For the heatsinks, if the model is an stl, you can upload it to Shapeways, and have it actually printed in copper, as they do laser sintering for metal prints. I'd though get them printed in plastic, then just paint and weather them to save money and no one but you would know anyway.

[Mark D]

Thanks Mark! I wasn't sure if the inside panels were screwed to something inside the car to keep them from falling forward. I wasn't sure if on the real car the inside plate and back glass replacement plate were connected with some parts going through.


Just so we're on the same page, on the screen used car there are only those three plates shown in the CAD screen grab that make up the bulkhead. There is no additional plate that makes up an exterior wall.

The interior panel that the flux capacitor is mounted to is the same panel you see from the outside of the car that the Janitrol tank is mounted to.

The smaller two plates towards the passenger side are inset forward, so the parcel shelf area inside the car behind those bulkheads now becomes part of the outside of the car. The large zero can in front of the engine cover on the PS hangs over this area known as "the void" and a bunch of the large cables and wires from the outside of the car terminate here.


EDIT:
Here's a markup of that previous screen grab showing what some of those other bulkhead holes are for.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49655&d=1490016490

[smcguiga]

Just so we're on the same page, on the screen used car there are only those three plates shown in the CAD screen grab that make up the bulkhead. There is no additional plate that makes up an exterior wall.

The interior panel that the flux capacitor is mounted to is the same panel you see from the outside of the car that the Janitrol tank is mounted to.

The smaller two plates towards the passenger side are inset forward, so the parcel shelf area inside the car behind those bulkheads now becomes part of the outside of the car. The large zero can in front of the engine cover on the PS hangs over this area known as "the void" and a bunch of the large cables and wires from the outside of the car terminate here.


EDIT:
Here's a markup of that previous screen grab showing what some of those other bulkhead holes are for.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49655&d=1490016490

OH...well that makes more sense now. So yeah...not removing the rear glass really does make things a lot different. I always thought that the back glass was just replaced with a sort of "L" piece of aluminum and then the interior pieces were fastened to that piece. Thanks for the clarification!

["What The Flux?"]

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49572&d=1489541131

#10 button head cap screws. Black oxide finish, get stainless if you don't want to worry about rust.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#97763a214/=16rafcu

Hey Mark, thank you for sharing such awesome and useful information. It is very kind of you to share your knowledge and experience of the screen-used parts, I think your help to the community is invaluable and most likely the only truly accurate and authentic source.

I guess I have got a little ahead of myself, as I think one of the best places to start is with the main engine cover. The base that everything will essentially mount to. I hope my constant questions aren't of annoyance or inconvenience for you, but if you are able to; I was wondering if you could provide some basic info of the engine cover on its own please? Perhaps some of the main dimensions and locations of some of the main holes? I don't think it would be fair to ask you to provide details of every screw hole considering that there are so many of them (especially for the reactor core light bulb mountings). I'm sure if I go through enough reference, I can probably work a lot of that stuff out.

Thanks as always Mark! Grateful for all of your help.

[Timebender]

Quick question on the gauges- do they normally have internal lights, or do I need to install some small grain of wheat bulbs, or maybe a small warm white LED in each?

[minispeedstar]

Non had illumination fitted as standard as far as I know. I fit warm LED's in mine.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170324/b4219d7f32c7dca193fa74a64c4ae3f7.jpg

[Mark D]

Bit of a side note here, I came across a cool website that has a ton of old car literature and I found a few examples showing applications where the nuclear reactor hub cab was used (67-69 Dodge Polara, Charger, and Dodge Trucks).

http://www.lov2xlr8.no/broch1.html

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49765&d=1490384539

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49763&d=1490384535

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49764&d=1490384537

[Timebender]

Non had illumination fitted as standard as far as I know. I fit warm LED's in mine.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170324/b4219d7f32c7dca193fa74a64c4ae3f7.jpg

Yes I was looking at them closer and no lights, which is odd, given they might be used in a room where lighting isn't the best.

[Timebender]

Bit of a side note here, I came across a cool website that has a ton of old car literature and I found a few examples showing applications where the nuclear reactor hub cab was used (67-69 Dodge Polara, Charger, and Dodge Trucks).

http://www.lov2xlr8.no/broch1.html

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49765&d=1490384539

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49763&d=1490384535

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49764&d=1490384537

I love old car ads. They're so hip compared to now.

[Timebender]

Question:
What was used for the power levels behind the driver's seat? Looks like it was one of those VU spectrum meters from the 80's that had all the LED's for each band of sound (bass, mid, treble, and all the ones in between).

[Timebender]

Question:
What was used for the power levels behind the driver's seat? Looks like it was one of those VU spectrum meters from the 80's that had all the LED's for each band of sound (bass, mid, treble, and all the ones in between).

Edit: Audio spectrum meters...

[Mark D]

The array of lights behind the driver's seat referred to as the "Status Indicator Display" or SID for short, was a completely scratch built part. The front plate is 1/8" 6061 aluminum sheet with 200 individually hand drilled holes. There are aluminum standoffs bolted to the plate and welded to the L channels that makes up the two side brackets. Behind the plate is a rats nest of wiring connecting all of the LEDs that fed into a special effects controller box off camera. The wiring was set up so that someone off camera would turn a dial and the display could be 'turned up' to make the array light from the bottom up. Each light was not controlled individually, but rather in predetermined larger banks of 10-20 LED's. The intent was to show all the various systems that support time travel coming online and then finally pegging in the red as the car hit 88MPH.

The clear lenses are manufactured by cliplite and are still readily available, qty 200 are required. Here's one source of supply, but pretty much every major electronics supply store carries them so search for the PN to figure out who is currently selling them at the best price.

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_14277_-1


For the A car restoration SID each LED can be controlled independently of one another but the same larger banks of lights were programmed to light up in the same sequence as seen on screen to replicate the original effect. The static display of the restored A car (for display purposes) cycles through the various levels. It can also be controlled via the digital speedo to light up in the same sequence as the speed increases and approaches 88MPH.
.
.
.
Other versions of the SID have also been created by replica builders using sound to trigger the array of LED's. It works (as you described in your last post) as an audio frequency analyzer so that the individual vertical columns represent varying frequency wavelengths. I've got a replica SID that functions this way and it's pretty cool to see it operate by playing music or just by people talking. Operating in a car also works pretty well and the light increase along with changes in volume of engine RPM and road noise.

If you want to see the frequency analyzer version of the SID in operation you can check out this video from the 2010 Scream Awards. This is the Temporal FX "Flagship" DeLorean Time Machine that was also at this year's Oscars. In the clip you can see David Spade's voice controlling the levels on the SID as he talks. (Pardon the tacky cocaine joke)

https://youtu.be/5jzpFBo-N-o?t=1m13s

["What The Flux?"]

Hey Mark, thank you for sharing such awesome and useful information. It is very kind of you to share your knowledge and experience of the screen-used parts, I think your help to the community is invaluable and most likely the only truly accurate and authentic source.

I guess I have got a little ahead of myself, as I think one of the best places to start is with the main engine cover. The base that everything will essentially mount to. I hope my constant questions aren't of annoyance or inconvenience for you, but if you are able to; I was wondering if you could provide some basic info of the engine cover on its own please? Perhaps some of the main dimensions and locations of some of the main holes? I don't think it would be fair to ask you to provide details of every screw hole considering that there are so many of them (especially for the reactor core light bulb mountings). I'm sure if I go through enough reference, I can probably work a lot of that stuff out.

Thanks as always Mark! Grateful for all of your help.

Hi Mark, apologies if I am being a pain, but just in case you missed my earlier question...

Many thanks!

[minispeedstar]

The array of lights behind the driver's seat referred to as the "Status Indicator Display" or SID for short, was a completely scratch built part. The front plate is 1/8" 6061 aluminum sheet with 200 individually hand drilled holes. There are aluminum standoffs bolted to the plate and welded to the L channels that makes up the two side brackets. Behind the plate is a rats nest of wiring connecting all of the LEDs that fed into a special effects controller box off camera. The wiring was set up so that someone off camera would turn a dial and the display could be 'turned up' to make the array light from the bottom up. Each light was not controlled individually, but rather in predetermined larger banks of 10-20 LED's. The intent was to show all the various systems that support time travel coming online and then finally pegging in the red as the

If you want to see the frequency analyzer version of the SID in operation you can check out this video from the 2010 Scream Awards. This is the Temporal FX "Flagship" DeLorean Time Machine that was also at this year's Oscars. In the clip you can see David Spade's voice controlling the levels on the SID as he talks. (Pardon the tacky cocaine joke)

https://youtu.be/5jzpFBo-N-o?t=1m13s

I thought the car from the Scream awards was the car that now resides in the U.K.?...

[Mark D]

I thought the car from the Scream awards was the car that now resides in the U.K.?...

Wow, I'm really starting to lose my memory. Yeah that was Sean Bishop & J Ryan's car at the Scream Awards. The SID was built by TFX and I think it was removed from the car and replaced with some other replica prior to it getting sold.

[Mark D]

Hi Mark, apologies if I am being a pain, but just in case you missed my earlier question...

Many thanks!

I should be able to post some basic dimensions of the engine cover, I just haven't been on my other computer lately to take a look.

["What The Flux?"]

I should be able to post some basic dimensions of the engine cover, I just haven't been on my other computer lately to take a look.

Thanks Mark, I am grateful

[Timebender]

Hi Mark, I know in the actual car, the TDC was static with backlit gels. Do you know off- hand what the font was and size that they used?

[mluder]

I'd just like to take this opportunity to say...
This is my absolute favorite thread to see updates on!

Cheers
Steve

[drewguillory]

This is my absolute favorite thread to see updates on!


Agreed!

Mark, could you confirm the size of the various button cap screws on the rear vents?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170330/dc9359fd4498cfc56d1bb48e2ac3fe06.jpg

[Mark D]

Hi Mark, I know in the actual car, the TDC was static with backlit gels. Do you know off- hand what the font was and size that they used?

Only the 3 digit display for the "month" on the C car were back lit gels, the other digits were 7 segment LED displays that could be programmed to any number using a special effects box off camera. The height of each alpha character for the gels was sized to match the numeric LED displays which have a character height of .60" tall. It's not a common size and the LED's are no longer in production. If you're shopping for LED's you can find some that are close, but be sure you're ordering to get the size of the character as close as possible to .60. Often times they are listed by the overall height of the case/digit height and not the character height. There are generally two types of 'font', those that have rounded corners and those that have pointed corners on the individual segments of the digits. For screen accurate characters the tips of the segments should all be pointed.

Not sure if I mentioned this in this thread yet but the A, B, and C cars all started out with 2 digit numeric month displays. The C car was used for all the close up shots of the time circuit display and it was modified to have a 3 digit alpha display for the months so it would be much easier to read on screen. The A and B cars retained their numeric 2 digit month displays throughout the trilogy and there are only a few brief moments where you can see them on screen in non-close up shots. Here's a photo from sometime in the late 80's showing the A car's TCD.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=50104&d=1490928686

You can also see on the original A car displays the round 3mm LED's for AM/PM and the colon for the time are color matched to the displays (Amber, Green, Yellow) whereas on the modified C car display they were all yellow.

[Mark D]

Agreed!

Mark, could you confirm the size of the various button cap screws on the rear vents?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170330/dc9359fd4498cfc56d1bb48e2ac3fe06.jpg

The seven hex button head cap screws that are lined up in a row on each side of the belt separator are #10 (can be 24 or 32 threads per inch, the head size is the same for both) McMasterCarr sells these in black oxide stainless which looks accurate but will not rust like the black oxide mild steel button head cap screws used on the screen used cars.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#screws/=16zjxc6

The three other "oops" screw holes shown that were used to mount the plastic CO2 vent horn inside the vent are two different sizes of screw. They are phillips head, and the one small one you see is #8 and the two large ones are #10. These are round head sheet metal screws.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#tapping-screws/=16zjwx5

I can't remember off the top of my head the phillips head screw sizes for the other three oops holes on the other vent. I think those were all the same size. If you've got a high res photo of the other side you can compare to the button head cap screws nearby to determine if they are #8 or #10.

[rickjames8]

Not sure if I mentioned this in this thread yet but the A, B, and C cars all started out with had 2 digit numeric months. The C car was used for all the close up shots of the time circuit display, and it was modified to have a 3 digit alpha display for the months so it would be much easier to read on screen. The A and B cars retained their numeric 2 digit month displays throughout the trilogy and there are only a few brief moments where you can see them on screen in non-close up shots. Here's a photo from sometime in the late 80's showing the A car's TCD.

It's amazing that even way back in 1985, Doc Brown had the foresight to use a 4 digit year and avoid the Y2K threat. If only the rest of us paid attention.

....Agreed with mluder - I have never considered building a BTTF car, but this thread is one of my favorites to read. The attention to detail and wealth of information shared is truly impressive.

[Timebender]

Only the 3 digit display for the "month" on the C car were back lit gels, the other digits were 7 segment LED displays that could be programmed to any number using a special effects box off camera. The height of each alpha character for the gels was sized to match the numeric LED displays which have a character height of .60" tall. It's not a common size and the LED's are no longer in production. If you're shopping for LED's you can find some that are close, but be sure you're ordering to get the size of the character as close as possible to .60. Often times they are listed by the overall height of the case/digit height and not the character height. There are generally two types of 'font', those that have rounded corners and those that have pointed corners on the individual segments of the digits. For screen accurate characters the tips of the segments should all be pointed.

Not sure if I mentioned this in this thread yet but the A, B, and C cars all started out with 2 digit numeric month displays. The C car was used for all the close up shots of the time circuit display and it was modified to have a 3 digit alpha display for the months so it would be much easier to read on screen. The A and B cars retained their numeric 2 digit month displays throughout the trilogy and there are only a few brief moments where you can see them on screen in non-close up shots. Here's a photo from sometime in the late 80's showing the A car's TCD.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=50104&d=1490928686

You can also see on the original A car displays the round 3mm LED's for AM/PM and the colon for the time are color matched to the displays (Amber, Green, Yellow) whereas on the modified C car display they were all yellow.

Good to know. Thanks for the great information, Mark!

["What The Flux?"]

I completely agree with the other followers here. This thread specifically is one of my absolute favorites and I check in on a daily basis in the hope of learning something new and interesting from Mark. I think we can all agree that Mark's contribution to the community in sharing his experience of a very privileged opportunity during the restoration is as generous as it is awesome!

I know we ask you a lot of questions Mark, but please know that we are all grateful for your fantastically detailed answers.

Additional note: I didn't even notice that one of those three Philips screws was smaller than the other two??! Awesome attention to detail!

[Mark D]

Thanks guys, I'm happy to answer your questions and share some of the random stuff I've learned over the years. Most of what I know is from other people sharing in our builder's group so I've got to give credit to Joe and the rest of the team for all the hard work they have done. Years of research were involved figuring a lot of this stuff out before I was even a part of the group. As a team we were able to pool our respective skills and figure out details that most people would have found trivial at the time. That decade or so of hard work prior to the restoration made all the difference when we had the opportunity to restore the A car.

["What The Flux?"]

Thanks guys, I'm happy to answer your questions and share some of the random stuff I've learned over the years. Most of what I know is from other people sharing in our builder's group so I've got to give credit to Joe and the rest of the team for all the hard work they have done. Years of research were involved figuring a lot of this stuff out before I was even a part of the group. As a team we were able to pool our respective skills and figure out details that most people would have found trivial at the time. That decade or so of hard work prior to the restoration made all the difference when we had the opportunity to restore the A car.

That's a generous and commendable mentality Mark, thank you. There is no obligation of course from your side to share such valuable hard work, knowledge and experience; which is what makes it even more respectable that you decide to help us with stuff that we would probably find very difficult to find out (if at all) for ourselves. There is only so much information that can be gathered from numerous reference images etc (as you know).

I just wanted to express my appreciation...

[Mark D]

"You can't keep a good scientist down!" nor can you stop Joe from doing what Joe does best. Check out the latest project, building the Eaglemoss DeLorean Time Machine on the "No Concept of Time" youtube channel and facebook page.

Joe and the TMR crew, BTTF cast/crew, and BTTF fans will collaborating to create 130 episodes to build the complete Eaglemoss 1:8 scale time machine replica. Each episode will also feature never before shared information about the restoration and info about the parts included in the Eaglemoss release.

Episode 001 features the DeLorean rear fascia, RH tail light, license plate bezel and OUTATIME license plate:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt_P97p7Drk

https://youtu.be/vt_P97p7Drk

https://www.facebook.com/NoConceptOfTime/

[minispeedstar]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170403/c9446621c9d27ea3d7824fafacc9ba8e.jpg

Mine so far.

[smcguiga]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170403/c9446621c9d27ea3d7824fafacc9ba8e.jpg

Mine so far.

So this still isn't available in the US yet? I'm ready to get started! :)

[smcguiga]

Hey Mark....a few more parts questions. I have a cast of the black box that the wires are coming out of but I think I would rather build this (as well as the other one by the flux capacitor...these grey fittings are also in other places on the car.) Can you give part numbers and/or dimensions of these? Also, what info can you provide about the parts for HIGH VOLTAGE box. I already have the correct can from Zero.

50520

Thanks again!

[Mark D]

Hey Mark....a few more parts questions. I have a cast of the black box that the wires are coming out of but I think I would rather build this (as well as the other one by the flux capacitor...these grey fittings are also in other places on the car.) Can you give part numbers and/or dimensions of these? Also, what info can you provide about the parts for HIGH VOLTAGE box. I already have the correct can from Zero.

50520

Thanks again!

Hey sorry for taking so long to respond, I've been out of town.

The black boxes for the watertight fittings are also zero cans, just cut and modified to make the sides of the can into flanges. The watertight fittings are some obscure brand that you might still be able to find surplus somewhere. I'll have to check and see if I've got part numbers, but I'm pretty sure I've got the correct sizes. You should be able to find other companies that make them in the same size, although the exact dimensions and rounded profile of the ends won't be exact. I think a few accurate ones have been found in the past and you could find someone who sells just castings of the watertight fittings and no the whole assembly.

The high voltage box is a zero can as you already mentioned. The counter is made by Contraves and you can still buy them from the company that makes them if you call and order, but the LED 7 segment displays are no longer accurate and would need to be swapped out. The font on the counter wheel has also changed if you care about that level of detail. To order you should just be able to call and ask for the "Back to the future" counter wheel and there are people there that know what one it is. Otherwise I should have the PN somewhere that I can post.

The yellow indicators are made by CompuLite. I don't think they make the exact ones anymore (I will look up the PN), but I think a few surplus shops in the LA area still have the right ones in white and can by dyed yellow. The number labels were an after the fact addition and are not part of the design of the indicator itself. Another option is if you find them with white buttons is to disassemble make a mold of just the button, cast in yellow and reassemble.

The surround that goes around the three buttons is a small piece of 1/8" thick 6061 aluminum sheet.

The cannon connector on top is covered in one of my previous posts.

["What The Flux?"]

I should be able to post some basic dimensions of the engine cover, I just haven't been on my other computer lately to take a look.

Hi Mark,

I am sorry to have to keep asking, but just in case you forgot my earlier question regarding the engine cover dimensions...

Thanks as always.

[Timebender]

Question: what kind or model of keypad was used for the TDC input?

[Mark D]

Question: what kind or model of keypad was used for the TDC input? I touched on this in an earlier post here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11228-BTTF-Time-Machine-Build-Questions-Ask-Me-Anything&p=211086&viewfull=1#post211086

The full keypad assemblies were made by TRW and were most likely used for entry / security systems. When the company went under all of the existing surplus went to Apex in Sun Valley, CA. I don't know of any other place that anyone has ever found an accurate keypad.

TRW used off the shelf components to build the keypads. The green housing was unique as was the circuit board that everything was connected to, but the keypad itself was made by GTE and the indicator lights were a purchased sub component. The indicators can be cast from an original, or you can find them on ebay and other electronics surplus sites. They are not always in stock and sometimes have a large minimum buy quantity. They are made by Leecraft and are the series 32/35 indicators:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=50855&d=1491882596


The best source for the green housing at this point is probably a casting. The originals are very brittle and tend to crack when being trimmed down slightly to fit as done on the screen used cars. You'll also need a casting for the white insert that covers the face of the keypad. The rest can be built up using more common parts.

Apex listed a few full keypad assemblies a while back on ebay but they were mostly damaged units. I think at this point they may have completely liquidated what was left.

[Mark D]

Hi Mark,

I am sorry to have to keep asking, but just in case you forgot my earlier question regarding the engine cover dimensions...

Thanks as always.

Hey no problem, I didn't forget. Just haven't had a chance to get my CAD machine up and running lately.

[Timebender]

Thanks Mark for the info. So, being that the keypads are basically no longer available, I wonder what guys like Bruce and Bob are using for their builds?


I touched on this in an earlier post here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11228-BTTF-Time-Machine-Build-Questions-Ask-Me-Anything&p=211086&viewfull=1#post211086

The full keypad assemblies were made by TRW and were most likely used for entry / security systems. When the company went under all of the existing surplus went to Apex in Sun Valley, CA. I don't know of any other place that anyone has ever found an accurate keypad.

TRW used off the shelf components to build the keypads. The green housing was unique as was the circuit board that everything was connected to, but the keypad itself was made by GTE and the indicator lights were a purchased sub component. The indicators can be cast from an original, or you can find them on ebay and other electronics surplus sites. They are not always in stock and sometimes have a large minimum buy quantity. They are made by Leecraft and are the series 32/35 indicators:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=50855&d=1491882596


The best source for the green housing at this point is probably a casting. The originals are very brittle and tend to crack when being trimmed down slightly to fit as done on the screen used cars. You'll also need a casting for the white insert that covers the face of the keypad. The rest can be built up using more common parts.

Apex listed a few full keypad assemblies a while back on ebay but they were mostly damaged units. I think at this point they may have completely liquidated what was left.

[mluder]

Thanks Mark for the info. So, being that the keypads are basically no longer available, I wonder what guys like Bruce and Bob are using for their builds?

Probably kit of parts... Casting of the case, number keypad from an old phone that looks similar, and the lights as indicated int he post above.
It wouldn't be that difficult and now with 3D printing being pretty accessible you could probably just print a case.

Cheers
Steve

[Timebender]

Probably kit of parts... Casting of the case, number keypad from an old phone that looks similar, and the lights as indicated int he post above.
It wouldn't be that difficult and now with 3D printing being pretty accessible you could probably just print a case.

Cheers
Steve

The case is easy, and the indicator lights as well. I do have two keypads now - both gray, but I wonder if I can bleach them to white?

[Timebender]

This is what I bought on advice from my guru, Gary...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-Push-Button-Momentary-Self-Reset-Square-Switch-Red-LED-Light-/262844365763?hash=item3d32bebbc3

You can just print on a regular piece of printer paper the "EMPTY" and install a flashing LED bulb assembly. It will shine through.

I'm not sure about the metal on the sides. It's just perforated stainless steel. Might even be (probably is) the same stuff used for the flux bands. That said I don't know what the hole size or spacing is supposed to be. I'm sure someone can provide.

Cheers
Steve

So I got that button off eBay, drilled a hole in my gauge for it, put it in, only to discover it's too tall and the cover wouldn't back on. So I dremeled the sides of the button and pushed it into its down position, and it kinda fits, but the faceplate still doesn't sit down all the way.

I'm going to guess that's normal?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170412/b7a6b3c3a55a983ff0d7a6bd9ed87336.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170412/f9a43289c5cac7aef76dfdbf70c21016.jpg

[Mark D]

So I got that button off eBay, drilled a hole in my gauge for it, put it in, only to discover it's too tall and the cover wouldn't back on. So I dremeled the sides of the button and pushed it into its down position, and it kinda fits, but the faceplate still doesn't sit down all the way.

I'm going to guess that's normal?


Your roentgens meter is slightly different than the screen used meter. It looks like the face of the meter is closer to the lens than on the screen used type. That ebay button is not correct either and may be taller than the correct alcoswitch indicator. For a screen accurate red rectangular indicator you need to order one of each of these:

Lens:
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-connectivity-alcoswitch-brand-64t2.html?p=10534864

Housing:
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-connectivity-alcoswitch-brand-164tz.html?p=10534687

Bulb:
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-connectivity-alcoswitch-brand-382ag.html?p=10534814
(T1 3/4 Flange base, can also use red LED bulb with flange base instead)

You should be able to completely reassemble the meter without the indicator hitting the glass.

[Timebender]

Thanks again Mark. The meter was the same as one that Bruce sent me as well- so I figured it was as close as it could get. I'll order those other bits and see if it gives a better fit.

[smcguiga]

I just took my Roentgens meter apart to get ready to put the light in it just like Timebender did. I decide to go ahead and scan the plate in case anyone needs it. :)

50864

--Steven

["What The Flux?"]

I just took my Roentgens meter apart to get ready to put the light in it just like Timebender did. I decide to go ahead and scan the plate in case anyone needs it. :)

50864

--Steven

Really cool image and very useful. Thank you very much!

[Timebender]

Speaking of labels - I read the font for the TDC black labels is Microgramma D extended bold - best I could guess is 14 point. What's the font and size for the red labels?

[minispeedstar]

So I got that button off eBay, drilled a hole in my gauge for it, put it in, only to discover it's too tall and the cover wouldn't back on. So I dremeled the sides of the button and pushed it into its down position, and it kinda fits, but the faceplate still doesn't sit down all the way.

I'm going to guess that's normal?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170412/b7a6b3c3a55a983ff0d7a6bd9ed87336.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170412/f9a43289c5cac7aef76dfdbf70c21016.jpg

For those gauges just fit the lens with an LED behind it, there's less space than the screen accurate version gauge.

[Timebender]

For those gauges just fit the lens with an LED behind it, there's less space than the screen accurate version gauge.

Makes sense

[Timebender]

So as to an earlier question - what did they use to make the labels for the TCD as well as the little clear "empty" label?

For now I've printed everything but the empty label onto photo paper and plan on picking up a sticker maker at Hobby Lobby. I did the graphics in Illustrator using the Microgramma Bold extended font.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=50949&d=1492455844

[Mark D]

So as to an earlier question - what did they use to make the labels for the TCD as well as the little clear "empty" label?

For now I've printed everything but the empty label onto photo paper and plan on picking up a sticker maker at Hobby Lobby. I did the graphics in Illustrator using the Microgramma Bold extended font.



The actual machine is a Kroy Model 80 label printer. It's 80's tech that's long since become obsolete so finding a working machine and the special printing tape in the right colors is an expensive (and time consuming) way to go. You also have to find the correct font printing wheel. A much better option is to print on vinyl and cut to size.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=50950&d=1492457052

I think only a couple of the correct font wheels have ever been found, and the white-on-black and white-on-red tape is even harder to find.

[Timebender]

The actual machine is a Kroy Model 80 label printer. It's 80's tech that's long since become obsolete so finding a working machine and the special printing tape in the right colors is an expensive (and time consuming) way to go. You also have to find the correct font printing wheel. A much better option is to print on vinyl and cut to size.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=50950&d=1492457052

I think only a couple of the correct font wheels have ever been found, and the white-on-black and white-on-red tape is even harder to find.

I actually remember having one of those in a print shop I worked at back in the late 80's. Good memories.

[Mark D]

I actually remember having one of those in a print shop I worked at back in the late 80's. Good memories.

From what I remember when we were doing some hard searching a few years ago the machines were pretty common back in the 70's and 80's so they're not too hard to get these days. They just run about 50 bucks or so. To find the right font wheel can be $5 or $500 depending on what kind of crack the seller is smoking.

The real kicker though is finding the right printing tape. I don't know if anyone has ever found the correct stuff that was not totally degraded. Apparently there is lots of black on white tape and black on clear tape out there but nobody seemed to hoard the more obscure colors needed TCD.

Difficulty of finding parts aside, just the $50 cost of the printer is hard to justify against a couple bucks to print a vinyl sheet.

[Timebender]

From what I remember when we were doing some hard searching a few years ago the machines were pretty common back in the 70's and 80's so they're not too hard to get these days. They just run about 50 bucks or so. To find the right font wheel can be $5 or $500 depending on what kind of crack the seller is smoking.

The real kicker though is finding the right printing tape. I don't know if anyone has ever found the correct stuff that was not totally degraded. Apparently there is lots of black on white tape and black on clear tape out there but nobody seemed to hoard the more obscure colors needed TCD.

Difficulty of finding parts aside, just the $50 cost of the printer is hard to justify against a couple bucks to print a vinyl sheet.

Agreed

[DMC5180]

I always thought they used a Dynamo label maker or is that just what most folks use for close enough replication?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Timebender]

I always thought they used a Dynamo label maker or is that just what most folks use for close enough replication?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For the labels on the flux capacitor and round gauges, those use the embossing labeler. The rest are the flat labels on both the plutonium chamber meter, and the TCD labels are all flat as well.

[burch]

For the labels on the flux capacitor and round gauges, those use the embossing labeler. The rest are the flat labels on both the plutonium chamber meter, and the TCD labels are all flat as well.

IIRC, the embossing labeler in this case wasn't a Dymo, but a Rotex. I picked up a Rotex 880 on eBay a couple years ago. The font seems to be closer to what you see on screen than what the Dymo has. (Apologies if this was covered earlier in the thread)

[mluder]

IIRC, the embossing labeler in this case wasn't a Dymo, but a Rotex. I picked up a Rotex 880 on eBay a couple years ago. The font seems to be closer to what you see on screen than what the Dymo has. (Apologies if this was covered earlier in the thread)

Can you find tape for these still or do the modern equivalents work?

Cheers
Steve

[Timebender]

IIRC, the embossing labeler in this case wasn't a Dymo, but a Rotex. I picked up a Rotex 880 on eBay a couple years ago. The font seems to be closer to what you see on screen than what the Dymo has. (Apologies if this was covered earlier in the thread)

That makes sense, as the kerning is much closer on the movie version, whereas the dyno labeler leaves a lot more space between the letters.

I finally gave up on worrying about that little detail, as we're the only ones who are going to notice (and of course it bugs me, but who cares what I think?), and the general public will freak out about cool it looks.

I mean, look at the car by RentDeLorean- have you seen his homemade Mr. Fusion? We know it's nowhere near being a Krups, but his clients and general onlookers don't give a hoot.

[Timebender]

Labels from dymo on round gaugehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170418/fc82743b3be7e1ba41432a16e17697a3.jpg

[burch]

Can you find tape for these still or do the modern equivalents work?

Cheers
Steve

The modern equivalents work, however I have found that it is tough to get the 1/2" tape size locally anymore. You can get the 3/8" just about anywhere, but 1/2 is a bit tougher. I ended up buying some old Dymo tape through http://www.dymotapestore.com/. The size is right and the quality is good. The problem is that with this older tape, the adhesive isn't always the greatest anymore. A little double-sided tape on the back corrects that though :)

Here's what it looks like on my Flux: 50967

My flux build isn't 100% screen accurate, but more than close enough for my needs.

[mluder]

The modern equivalents work, however I have found that it is tough to get the 1/2" tape size locally anymore. You can get the 3/8" just about anywhere, but 1/2 is a bit tougher. I ended up buying some old Dymo tape through http://www.dymotapestore.com/. The size is right and the quality is good. The problem is that with this older tape, the adhesive isn't always the greatest anymore. A little double-sided tape on the back corrects that though :)


I never realized there were two sizes on the car... (Or that 2 sizes even existed) I just assumed they were all one sized (3/8").
Thanks for the info.

Cheers
Steve

[burch]

I never realized there were two sizes on the car... (Or that 2 sizes even existed) I just assumed they were all one sized (3/8").
Thanks for the info.

Cheers
Steve

So, based off my measurements on screencaps, I believe there are two sizes. Hopefully someone can either confirm, or shoot me down quickly :)

[Timebender]

I managed to get my gauges done- they're non- functional and light up using battery powered miniature Christmas lights. Lots of thanks to Mark, mluder, and anyone else who shared some really great info!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170419/7da3fa1524901fbe756f039e0ee3726c.jpg

[Mark D]

Just confirming that the ROTEX label maker is what was used, and there are two sizes of labels, 1/2" and 3/8. In the the photos above of Burch's flux he's got the upper two labels correctly overlapping by a slight bit.

[BadCompany]

Is the Roentgen gauge made by Phaostron ? If not who makes it...where can I find one and what is the part #
Also what are the dimensions of said gauge....
Thanks in advance

[Mark D]

Is the Roentgen gauge made by Phaostron ? If not who makes it...where can I find one and what is the part #
Also what are the dimensions of said gauge....
Thanks in advance

The Roentgen gauge is made by Simpson, PN 958516. The only confirmed piece of equipment that they were used on is Radiac CP-95. I don't have overall dimensions handy, but I can measure the one I've got. Your best bet at finding one is ebay, NSN searches for the radiac, or Fair Radio (fairradio.com)

I got mine through Fair Radio 6 or 7 years ago and if you call and ask they have them in stock from time to time. Expect to pay between $100-$200 though for an accurate one with the correct housing and meter face font.

[BadCompany]

Thanks Mark for your time.....you are always very helpful

[Timebender]

I don't know if this was already covered, but what's the height of the TCD keypad enclosure?

[Mark D]

I don't know if this was already covered, but what's the height of the TCD keypad enclosure?

Are you talking about the overall height of the green part of the keypad? Here are some overall dimensions of the TRW housing.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=51450&d=1494507056

[Timebender]

Are you talking about the overall height of the green part of the keypad? Here are some overall dimensions of the TRW housing.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=51450&d=1494507056

Yep- that's what I was looking for.

Thanks again Mark!

[BadCompany]

Anyone have a good close-up picture of the original "A" car roentgen gauge ? ....seems like Simpson used two different fonts over the years.....
Thanks in advance

[powerline84]

Mark,

Do you have any info on the Rowen Contactors and what the correct serial/part # is? I was told u can still buy them out there on ebay and such. When i search for 3 prong contractors I get a bunch but none that appear to be right

[DaveM]

Hi Mark,

I just finished reading the thread and I wanted to thank you for taking your time to help the community. There is a ton of great information in here.

I'm in the beginning stages of building my own time circuits, and I'm having trouble locating alphanumeric displays that look the part. In the OUTATIME documentary there is a close-up shot of the reproduction time circuits at around 50:17. The alphanumeric displays in the reproduction circuits are 14-segment with no decimals and have all three digits close together in a single unit.

Do you know where these displays are from? Or do you have any advice for finding similar displays?

Thanks for the help!

[BadCompany]

Hey Mark D......
.where are you ?

[Mark D]

Still here. Post people have been sending me PM's if they have questions since this thread hasn't had much action and I'm not always checking for new posts.

[BadCompany]

Thanks do you have any close-up pics of the A car Roentgen gauge .....I want to compare it to mine as I think I have an original.....
As always thanks for your time and knowledge....

[BadCompany]

I also think there are a few different fonts on these.....

[Mark D]

The roentgen meter came from a CP95 Radiac which has the accurate meter housing with correct font. Other loose gauges that are found have come from other sources that are close but not accurate. I've got some pictures showing the different variations that I can post for you later this evening.

[maxQ]

Hi Mark,
I'm having to make my own 'Torr Laboratories' Vacuum Relays for my Flux Capacitor build - I've looked everywhere for these things... Do you (or anyone else reading this) know the diameter and height/thickness of the brass section of the relays? Thanks!
M.Q

[BadCompany]

Please post the pictures.....
Thanks

[maxQ]

This is what I'm looking for... From my research they are; Torr Laboratories TVS-1 High Voltage Relays. Found in military communication equipment from WWII through to the Vietnam War. The consensus is that they are like trying to find a needle after the haystack has gone! You never know... Any help finding some, or the dimensions of the round brass casing/base of the relays would be very much appreciated.

mQ.

53314
53316

[maxQ]

Please post the pictures.....
Thanks

Chicken and egg thing. I need the dimensions etc. before I can make them. If I have to make them, this is what I'm looking at doing:

1. Turn a master pattern to replicate the brass base. Drilled to take the 'vacuum tube', stepped/shouldered on top to take a 1.5mm thick brass plate. Diameter? (need dimensions). The master will be moulded in silicon rubber, I'll then make 3 castings using epoxy resin mixed with brass powder. OR depending on the size I might just turn the 3 of them out of brass tube.
2. I'll make a master pattern of the glass vacuum tubes. These will be cast (with the correct internals) in crystal clear epoxy. You have to be careful with epoxy as it can be challenging to get it "crystal" clear. Sometimes it can be "cloudy" and no matter how much fine sanding and polishing it is never quite as clear as it's name suggests. If I have any issues I'll hit it with a 2-Pack epoxy lacquer.

The thing to remember about casting things, especially casting something clear is get rid of the air bubbles. I 'degas' mixed resins etc. in a vacuum chamber before I use them. If you don't have a vacuum chamber you can (sometimes) get away with leaving the poured mould on a running drill press with a bolt off-set in the chuck to cause some vibration. This helps get rid of most of the air bubbles but usually there's always one or two and ALWAYS where you don't want them! Apart from not being 100% effective, leaving a drill press running (or any other machine for that matter) is highly dangerous and I would strongly advise you NOT to do this.

mQ.

[Timebender]

Someone had discovered that the top housing from a Pittman motor (we use those for our dome drives on R2 and other such droids) is the right diameter and height for the Torr Relay base, and so he took one and used that as a mold for his resin pours, then drilled the various holes with his drill press.

[maxQ]

Someone had discovered that the top housing from a Pittman motor (we use those for our dome drives on R2 and other such droids) is the right diameter and height for the Torr Relay base, and so he took one and used that as a mold for his resin pours, then drilled the various holes with his drill press.

Thank you for the heads-up, I'll check it out. I found some "spark plug" Caps that look right for the top of the glass relays. I had searched for ages until I came across 'distributor boots' by accident... So, it looks like they are distributor boots not spark plug caps. I found some on eBay, they look exactly like the ones used on the Flux Capacitor. The only thing is... they are black not orange. Anyone know where the orange ones came from? Thanks!
mQ.

[BadCompany]

Hey Mark,
Please post the pictures of the roentgen gauges......please let me know which one was used on the A car
Thanks

[kgp4death]

whats the model of the muffler filters on the rear passenger side near the capacitors? Thanks in advance

[Mark D]

whats the model of the muffler filters on the rear passenger side near the capacitors? Thanks in advance

They are atomuffler M00. The base is just a piece of wood with chamfered edges and two holes drilled in it. The atomuffler show up on ebay frequently, although as with most of the other parts on the car the new mufflers changed from the vintage ones and the cast top looks slightly different.

Here's photo of one that is legit:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=53694&d=1506656276

[Mark D]

Hey Mark,
Please post the pictures of the roentgen gauges......please let me know which one was used on the A car
Thanks

Here are a few photos of the roentgen gauge from the A car:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=53691&d=1506656048

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=53692&d=1506656048

And a comparison of a correct gauge and an incorrect gauge

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=53693&d=1506656057

[Mark D]

Hi Mark,
I'm having to make my own 'Torr Laboratories' Vacuum Relays for my Flux Capacitor build - I've looked everywhere for these things... Do you (or anyone else reading this) know the diameter and height/thickness of the brass section of the relays? Thanks!
M.Q

The relay coil housings are made of steel with yellow zinc plating.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=53696&d=1506657171

[maxQ]

The relay coil housings are made of steel with yellow zinc plating.

Thank you Mark! You have no idea how much I appreciate this :thumbup: The Stahlin J1210HPL (electrical box) I ordered arrived today. It feels like Xmas lol...
T.

[powerline84]

53701
Made this today

[maxQ]

Hi Guys,
thanks to the help I've received on this Forum - especially from Mark, I am now making good progress with my Flux Capacitor build. I'm still undecided as to which way to go with the Vacuum Relay bases. Fabricate them or make a master and cast them (pros & cons both ways).
Meanwhile... I've looked everywhere for the correct 90 Degree - orange distributor/spark plug boot/caps and the orange grommets that the yellow leads go through on the mounting plate. What are they from originally Mark? Can you still get them? I've attached a screen shot from the BTTF DeLorean restoration DVD. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
mQ
53737

[Mark D]

I was not around when the screen used Flux Capacitor was being rebuilt, but I believe it was put back together with the original boots and wires after they were cleaned up. The boots on the car now should be those that were originally on the A car in 1985. It's also unique along with the B car in that it has the rubber on the backing board where the yellow wires pass through. The C car did not have these and there are a few other variations between the flux capacitors on the A, B and C cars. These can easily be made by using just the ends from the 90 deg boots and cutting off the large end that would normally go over the glass relay tube.

The boots you can find in black rubber at our your local auto parts store. The shape is the same as screen used l and they just need to be dyed orange using some SEM vinyl dye in a spray can. I've got a couple dozen boots from when I bought a bunch a few years back, if anyone is really looking for some and can't find any locally send me a PM. Otherwise here's a link to the ones you can get on OReilly's website.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/bwd-3123/performance-16477/engine-16841/ignition-16593/spark-plug-wire---boots---terminals-17887/distributor-boot/ct512a/2595059. You can search that same PN and brand on other sites to find alternative sources as well.

The only slight difference on these is that you'll want to sand the end of the narrow (where the yellow wire enters) end flat to eliminate the rounded/radiused edge. The end should be flat and not rounded.

[kgp4death]

Might sound like a stupid question but what type of screws were used on flux band brakets they need to ancor themselves i would guess but too tight would bow the stainless steel, probably over thinking it.

[Mark D]

Might sound like a stupid question but what type of screws were used on flux band brakets they need to ancor themselves i would guess but too tight would bow the stainless steel, probably over thinking it.

On the screen used cars there was no time to remove panels to access to the inside for a nut and bolt so in most cases so they just used sheet metal screws. If you do the same you'll want to use a center punch and drill plot holes in advance to prevent the drill bit from wandering.

For the front flux boxes you can get to the opposite side of the fender with your hands so a larger nut/bolt with washers were used. I'd also recommend removing the T panel from the roof when installing the upper flux boxes to bolt those on the same way as the fronts.

[kgp4death]

Thanks Again

[maxQ]

Hi Mark,
did you get my PM regarding the Distributor Boots from O'Reilly Auto Parts? Thanks.
Tony

[Temporal Displacement]

Hi Mark,
did you get my PM regarding the Distributor Boots from O'Reilly Auto Parts? Thanks.
Tony

I got a notification when sending a reply PM to Mark saying that his inbox is full and can't receive new messages. So Mark might not be receiving PM's? It also looks like I lost all of the content of my reply as a result??

[kgp4death]

thinking of ordering these tubes for my flux bands. does this look right aluminum 3/4 od....

https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Tubing-4NTA6?cm_sp=Cart-_-Products_You_Have_Recently_Viewed-_-AZCART_67708&cm_vc=AZCART_67708&req=Products_You_Have_Recently_Viewed

Also what led light setup do you guys suggest, the EL wire gray used didn't seem bright enough

[kgp4death]

https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Tubing-4NTA6?cm_sp=Cart-_-Products_You_Have_Recently_Viewed-_-AZCART_67708&cm_vc=AZCART_67708&req=Products_You_Have_Recently_Viewed

it's wrong it is 6ft, think i need 8 ft....can someone direct me to a reasonably priced aluminum tube...Grainger was close though

[kgp4death]

These guys seem reasonable and shipping is not bad either.....can someone confirm the size?

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/alumtube_6061t6.php

O.D. I.D. Wall Wt./Ft.(lbs.)Part No. Price / Ft
3/4 0.680 .035 0.098 03-36150 $3.35
3/4 0.652 .049 0.1288 03-36200 $3.75
3/4 0.634 .058 0.1506 03-36300 $2.75
3/4 0.620 .065 0.164 03-36350 $2.95

[maxQ]

Hi guys,
slowly getting all my parts together for my Flux Capacitor build. I've been dragging my feet a bit making the master patterns for the Torr Vacuum Relays (I'm still looking/hoping to find some genuine ones). Anyway, there's something else I am looking for and hopefully I'll have a better chance of getting it lol...
I looking for the correct window rubber. To me, the gasket profile looks asymmetrical. It looks thicker at the window and then tapers down to the outside edge. Of all the research I've done, the only replica Flux Capacitor I've see with the same window seal screen used one was on one of Bruce Coulombe's replica Flux Capacitors. Please see attached pics of the Coulombe replica Flux Capacitor and a couple of screen shots of the original one. If anyone can tell me where I get some I would be very grateful. Thanks!

Tony
544105441154412

[Timebender]

Hey Mark (or any of you who might know),

Do you know what was used for the square indicator lights as well as for the two pushbuttons on the TCD keypad box? I know the original TRW boxes had those in them - at least from what I can tell by Google images of original boxes, but what would be good for a reasonably close replica?

They look like round mounted indicators with the flush square lenses, but so far I could only find one in green, and it's 26mm vs 10mm.

I'm pretty close to wrapping up my replica, which I'll be offering both as a static version for the static TCD I make, and as an enclosure other builders can use with their own programmable (or whatever) TCD, since it seems finding actual TRW enclosures is nearly impossible.

Good news is what I'll be offering will be way more affordable than what's currently being offered. The TRW case as a kit will be thermoformed with separate keypad surround (printed) for about $50 bucks without the indicators. With them, I don't know as I have to find them and price them out. Or we just make new lenses so builders can add their own lights.

And a static TCD with backlit numbers, TRW case which is really for power and on/off/volume, and integrated bluetooth receiver and amp (with speakers side mounted in the TCD itself) will be about $350.


Greg

[Mark D]

Hey Mark (or any of you who might know),

Do you know what was used for the square indicator lights as well as for the two pushbuttons on the TCD keypad box? I know the original TRW boxes had those in them - at least from what I can tell by Google images of original boxes, but what would be good for a reasonably close replica?

They look like round mounted indicators with the flush square lenses, but so far I could only find one in green, and it's 26mm vs 10mm.

I'm pretty close to wrapping up my replica, which I'll be offering both as a static version for the static TCD I make, and as an enclosure other builders can use with their own programmable (or whatever) TCD, since it seems finding actual TRW enclosures is nearly impossible.

Good news is what I'll be offering will be way more affordable than what's currently being offered. The TRW case as a kit will be thermoformed with separate keypad surround (printed) for about $50 bucks without the indicators. With them, I don't know as I have to find them and price them out. Or we just make new lenses so builders can add their own lights.

And a static TCD with backlit numbers, TRW case which is really for power and on/off/volume, and integrated bluetooth receiver and amp (with speakers side mounted in the TCD itself) will be about $350.


Greg

The indicators can be purchased separately from the green housing, they are Leecraft series 32 (square) and are still available new. I think the only color you can no longer get in the correct/accurate version are the clear ones. I believe those have changed slightly over the years, and you'd have to find two new old stock ones on ebay of the vintage design. Attached below is the spec sheet with the part numbers for each color. The only part of the indicator you actually need is the lens which can easily be removed.

Note, that the bottom clear indicator is an actual push button while the other four are simply lights. The two clear lenses are the same, but behind the bottom one is a momentary push button.


59057

59058

59059

[Timebender]

Well that’s just awesome. Thanks for the fast reply!!

[Timebender]

So I’m guessing that all the indicator lights were converted to 12 volt (as they are Neon high voltage as stock), maybe LEDs? Also, for the bottom button, did you take a lens from one and just fit it over the push button?

[Mark D]

So I’m guessing that all the indicator lights were converted to 12 volt (as they are Neon high voltage as stock), maybe LEDs? Also, for the bottom button, did you take a lens from one and just fit it over the push button?

When the original cars were being built the keypads were found pretty much as you see them on screen as a complete assembly. They only had to be modified slightly to fit in the car below the time circuit displays. The keypad didn't actually function in any way other than the indicators being wire to light up when the TCD drive switch was turned on. All of the numeric displays were controlled by a separate box off camera to operate as you see on screen.

The stock TRW keypad assembly has a circuit board inside that has a push button soldered into it along with the LED's that are behind each indicator indicator. Production on the film just tapped into the circuit boards to make the lights work.

For the restoration we used a real keypad assembly and wired the lights and the actual keypad to function so it works like you see in the movie. You can actually enter dates into the keypad and the displays work based on the input.

All of the real TRW keypads are now long gone so most people building a replica need a casting of the green housing and a source for the rest of the internals. Luckily the lenses for the indicators used by TRW were an off the shelf component so today you can buy them as a separate indicator light. It doesn't matter what bulb type you get for the indicators since you throw away everything but the lens. The white keypad was also an off the shelf part made by GTE, and I believe TRW just assembled these components using their own custom circuit board to create the keypad assembly.

[Timebender]

For the restoration we used a real keypad assembly and wired the lights and the actual keypad to function so it works like you see in the movie. You can actually enter dates into the keypad and the displays work based on the input.



So I'm guessing behind the white/clear lens on the bottom, you put in a momentary square pushbutton with the clear lens on top of it to cover it up.

Correct?

[Mark D]

Yeah that's correct, the push button is below the lens, so when you push on the lens it activates the switch.

Here's a broken TRW keypad that was for sale that shows what the guts look like. There were a couple different variations of keypads, but this one looks to be original.

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/trw-keypad-delorean-time-machine-1827161268

[Justin]

Hey Mark, first off I would like to say thank you for all of this knowledge. I've been able to learn a lot from reading through this thread. I have a few questions if you don't mind.

I have been trying to find info on the switches that are on the overhead panel, but havent had too much luck. I saw that you PMed the PNs to another user earlier, is there any way that you would be able to send them to me too?

One of the other things I am looking at working on is the gold heatsinks on the rear bulkhead by the SID. I've heard that they were painted, but in the photos that I have seen of the originals they almost look like they were plated with another metal. Do you know how the original color was applied? For that matter, do you think it was something original, or something done when building the car?


Thanks for all the help!

[Mark D]

Hey Mark, first off I would like to say thank you for all of this knowledge. I've been able to learn a lot from reading through this thread. I have a few questions if you don't mind.

I have been trying to find info on the switches that are on the overhead panel, but havent had too much luck. I saw that you PMed the PNs to another user earlier, is there any way that you would be able to send them to me too?

One of the other things I am looking at working on is the gold heatsinks on the rear bulkhead by the SID. I've heard that they were painted, but in the photos that I have seen of the originals they almost look like they were plated with another metal. Do you know how the original color was applied? For that matter, do you think it was something original, or something done when building the car?


Thanks for all the help!

Are you talking about rectangular and circular red / white / yellow indicators in the overhead? Or the green / red rocker switches? or the green toggle switches on the black box? I can see if I've still got a list of PN's somewhere. I know the indicators were a real pain in the ass to order because you have to order the black housing, indicator lens, and bulb separately. They weren't all stocked at the same company back in the day so it took multiple orders from a few different places to get all the right pieces. And they are stupid expensive for what they are. 5 years ago it was like 300 bucks for a set, who knows what they are now. They do also sell the indicators as momentary push button or push on/ push off switches as well, but unless you are planning on actually wiring them up to something to function you are better off just getting the indicators only. The cost for the switches was like 30 bucks a piece plus the cost of the lens.

The gold heatsinks are made of aluminum and finished with gold chem film. It's a type of chromate conversion coating used to protect the aluminum from oxidation / corrosion. It's a similar process to how zinc plated steel parts are finished to look yellow after zinc plating. It's tough to find places these days that will still provide gold chem film coatings because it typically requires hexavalent chromium. Most places now only provide trivalent chrome conversion coatings because of industry standards and toxicity of the hex chromium. Some places that offer trivalent conversion coatings will add a yellow dye to simulate hex chrome, but it doesn't look exactly the same.

The gold finish on the heatsinks was definitely original. There are other markings and PN's inked onto the heatsinks that would have been covered up had they been painted over or refinished. The production team who built the car were actually really good about preserving part numbers on the parts. I'm not sure if it was intentional or not but it adds some authenticity to each prop that makes it seem a little bit more real.

[Justin]

Are you talking about rectangular and circular red / white / yellow indicators in the overhead? Or the green / red rocker switches? or the green toggle switches on the black box? I can see if I've still got a list of PN's somewhere. I know the indicators were a real pain in the ass to order because you have to order the black housing, indicator lens, and bulb separately. They weren't all stocked at the same company back in the day so it took multiple orders from a few different places to get all the right pieces. And they are stupid expensive for what they are. 5 years ago it was like 300 bucks for a set, who knows what they are now. They do also sell the indicators as momentary push button or push on/ push off switches as well, but unless you are planning on actually wiring them up to something to function you are better off just getting the indicators only. The cost for the switches was like 30 bucks a piece plus the cost of the lens.

The gold heatsinks are made of aluminum and finished with gold chem film. It's a type of chromate conversion coating used to protect the aluminum from oxidation / corrosion. It's a similar process to how zinc plated steel parts are finished to look yellow after zinc plating. It's tough to find places these days that will still provide gold chem film coatings because it typically requires hexavalent chromium. Most places now only provide trivalent chrome conversion coatings because of industry standards and toxicity of the hex chromium. Some places that offer trivalent conversion coatings will add a yellow dye to simulate hex chrome, but it doesn't look exactly the same.

The gold finish on the heatsinks was definitely original. There are other markings and PN's inked onto the heatsinks that would have been covered up had they been painted over or refinished. The production team who built the car were actually really good about preserving part numbers on the parts. I'm not sure if it was intentional or not but it adds some authenticity to each prop that makes it seem a little bit more real.

Well that is some great information on the heat sincs. Thank you so much! I'll need to start looking at my options for that.

Right now I have been looking for the rectangular and circular red / white / yellow indicators, but I was going to start looking for the rockers next, and would love to know about the green toggles if I could. I have heard about how expensive they are, and that they needed to be ordered as separate pieces, but I didn't hear that they were not all from the manufacture, I bet that is part of the reason I was having a hard time finding just the right model. I found several similar models, but none of them were quite the right shape. At this point I would like to get the actual switches, but your idea of just getting indicators is a good one.

Thanks again!

[Mark D]

Well that is some great information on the heat sincs. Thank you so much! I'll need to start looking at my options for that.

Right now I have been looking for the rectangular and circular red / white / yellow indicators, but I was going to start looking for the rockers next, and would love to know about the green toggles if I could. I have heard about how expensive they are, and that they needed to be ordered as separate pieces, but I didn't hear that they were not all from the manufacture, I bet that is part of the reason I was having a hard time finding just the right model. I found several similar models, but none of them were quite the right shape. At this point I would like to get the actual switches, but your idea of just getting indicators is a good one.

Thanks again!


The indicator parts are all made by AlcoSwitch (Tyco).

20x Indicator Body (Rectangle): 164TZ
10x Red Lens (Rectangle): 64T2
10x White Lens (Rectangle): 64T9

6x Indicator Body (Round): 164EZ
3x Red Lens (Round): 64E2
3x Yellow Lens (Round): 64E4

You'll also need 26 size T1-3/4 midget flanged base lamps.

If you want switch versions of the indicators be prepared to spend 2-5 times more. Also, the switches are much longer than the indicators and may not even fit behind the overhead panels. You may want to take measurements or buy a couple to test before spending over $1000 on switches that may not fit.

Momentary Switch (Rectangle): 164TL11
Push On-Off Switch (Rectangle): 164TL511

Momentary Switch (Round): 164EL11
Push On-Off Switch (Round): 164EL511

[Timebender]

This makes me wonder if there’s a way to make inexpensive replicas of those indicator lights - maybe just the lenses alone.

[Mark D]

The indicators aren't all that bad on cost but when you start looking at the switches...yikes.

When I got a set of these ~10 years ago it was with a group of builders and we did a group buy to get our quantities up. Most places that sell these have price breaks at higher quantities where it's a lot cheaper the more you buy. If you can find some other people that are interested in building an overhead assembly it makes sense to go in together on a parts run.

Or if you can afford it, buy 2-3 sets yourself and then sell them on ebay for more than what you paid, but for less than 1 set would cost alone.

Because these are fairly intricate electrical components I would advise against castings. Nobody wants to melt their car or start a fire trying to save a few bucks. The lenses are the cheapest part so it wouldn't make sense to cast those either. They are fairly complex 3 piece design and would make for some difficulty molding anyway.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59113&d=1548689459

[mluder]

Thanks so much for the info! I was wondering about thee cutout dimensions of the readouts. I plan on using some LED displays coupled to an Arduino. Once the speedometer project is done, I'll start on the Flux.

Thanks!
Jayce

Resurrecting this old discussion as I'm about to do similar on the speedo - GPS and Arduino.

I know the original segment displays are no longer available. In looking at what else is our there any recommendation?
The 0.56" seem too small and the 1.2" seem too big.

Also - it looks like at one point there were dimensions for the cut out but it looks like they're gone.
Anyone help with this too?

Cheers
Steve

[Revol2]

Hi, I have a PHAOSTRON 3 1/2" with not true scale
I'm looking for a scan of the correct scale
Anyone help with this? pls. [email protected]

[Jeffhucik]

mark,
Do you happen to have any measurements, even if basic, of the torin blower? I’m attempting to sketch one out for a 3D print and am having a hard time nailing down accuracy. I have guess measurements but I cannot be sure. Something as simple as the base width, hose hole opening size. Base Height. Anything would help to give me reference.
Jeff

[mluder]

mark,
Do you happen to have any measurements, even if basic, of the torin blower? I’m attempting to sketch one out for a 3D print and am having a hard time nailing down accuracy. I have guess measurements but I cannot be sure. Something as simple as the base width, hose hole opening size. Base Height. Anything would help to give me reference.
Jeff

There's a version in the CAD file that Gary Weaver released a number of years ago. Not sure how accurate it is...

Cheers
Steve

[Jeffhucik]

There's a version in the CAD file that Gary Weaver released a number of years ago. Not sure how accurate it is...

Cheers
Steve

Thank you for the info. I searched and searched and found them. I then went on a search for something I could view the file with and after a few dud programs I landed on one but it still would only show the preview thumbnail and not open ion the CAD, BUT I could export a PDF version. Still really no help. I appreciate you input though, thanks a lot! 59335

[mluder]

Thank you for the info. I searched and searched and found them. I then went on a search for something I could view the file with and after a few dud programs I landed on one but it still would only show the preview thumbnail and not open ion the CAD, BUT I could export a PDF version. Still really no help. I appreciate you input though, thanks a lot! 59335

I can help you out tomorrow when I get to work.

Cheers
Steve

[Jeffhucik]

I can help you out tomorrow when I get to work.

Cheers
Steve

I would greatly appreciate that!
Jeff

[mluder]

I would greatly appreciate that!
Jeff

So unfortunately the CAD file doesn't document the Torin blower itself. Only the space it takes on the back panel and the mounting holes for it.
I took this and created an 11x17 PDF of the outline of the blower in 1:1 scale so hopefully you can use that as a scaling device along with photos to determine other dimensions.

Here's a link to the PDF. I added some dimensions to give some basic layout help. May or may not be useful. Warning - I have no guarantee on the accuracy of this... I'm just sharing what I have.
https://app.box.com/s/q6nlce1e6supc7ekqwwu4qkaz0msipvl


Cheers
Steve

[Jeffhucik]

So unfortunately the CAD file doesn't document the Torin blower itself. Only the space it takes on the back panel and the mounting holes for it.
I took this and created an 11x17 PDF of the outline of the blower in 1:1 scale so hopefully you can use that as a scaling device along with photos to determine other dimensions.

Here's a link to the PDF. I added some dimensions to give some basic layout help. May or may not be useful. Warning - I have no guarantee on the accuracy of this... I'm just sharing what I have.
https://app.box.com/s/q6nlce1e6supc7ekqwwu4qkaz0msipvl


Cheers
Steve

Steve,
This is much more than I have been able to find on my own.This could at least give me a starting point. I really appreciate you taking the time to do that. Thanks a lot!
Jeff

[Revol2]

2 mluder
Sorry, but the "Private Messages" says error : mluder has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space.

So,
\\I assume by "scale" you are looking for the graphic that is on the face
Yes! It is! :)

Please look for example
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170418/fc82743b3be7e1ba41432a16e17697a3.jpg
but this is not my meter

or a very clear and sharp photo of the scale will help me

[mluder]

2 mluder
Sorry, but the "Private Messages" says error : mluder has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space.

So,
\\I assume by "scale" you are looking for the graphic that is on the face
Yes! It is! :)

Please look for example
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170418/fc82743b3be7e1ba41432a16e17697a3.jpg
but this is not my meter

or a very clear and sharp photo of the scale will help me

Sorry about that... I cleaned up my mailbox so it should be better now.
I was able to track down an image of a sticker that someone else had been producing...
59337

Cheers
Steve

[mluder]

Steve,
This is much more than I have been able to find on my own.This could at least give me a starting point. I really appreciate you taking the time to do that. Thanks a lot!
Jeff

No problem... Sorry there wasn't more.

[Mark D]

I've gotten quite a few PM's in the past week or so asking for some reference photos, just wanted to update that I'm working on it and should have some info available soon.

[mluder]

I've gotten quite a few PM's in the past week or so asking for some reference photos, just wanted to update that I'm working on it and should have some info available soon.

Thanks for all your time on this, Mark.
Appreciate your willingness to share what you can.

Cheers
Steve

[StanMan PushN 88]

Hi time machine builders!
From those of you who have already installed LED lights behind your flux bands...what brands and type have you found reliable and easy to work with? Ones to avoid? (bad product/warranty/service)?

I tried out (photo attached) and was considering LED strips (the 5050 kind on thin strips with 3m tape) but also leaning toward the "neon" tube styles that are a bit more expensive, but flexible59445...since the original car was based on neon lights (?) back in the day. Pros and cons of what you all have used already in the "real world" and would like it to be mobile so you can drive with lights on (white mode) and not always plugged into a wall for static display.

Thanks,

StanManPushN88

[Jeffhucik]

I've search the thread and don't believe I've seen this discussed. We know that the AM/FM radio used in the film that sits on top of the time circuits isn't either of the 2 stock DeLorean radios originally put in the car. Ive spent hour's going down the rabbit hold of trying to figure out what unit they used. I ended up using footage from someone taping the restored A-car at the Peterson Auto Museum as a reference. All I had to go off of was an image of a radio with a U shaped face with a silver border and the word "Auto Stop" on the tape deck flap. Surprisingly a google search of "AM/FM Radio Auto Stop" brought me to what looked like the same radio after a few mins of browsing, though all my previous efforts had been futile. I landed on a Kraco Dashmaster model:KID-581E. There was one on eBay in mint condition at a decent price so I grabbed it. Here's the thing, the few movie shots you can find depict a different radio. Now being as there were 2 other cars used for various shots, some not containing items used in the A-car, im having a hard time nailing down that this is the one. The shots I can find from the film are most likely the B & C cars. You can see it in the Pt III debris from the train hit, but that's the B-car. All the other shots are inside so that's going to be the C-car. You'd hope as picky as Joe Walser seemed to be in the restore doc that he would get this right. There is also the possibility the radio had since been stolen when it was sitting on the lot and no one could figure out which one was actually in the A-car so something close was randomly chosen. Another thing of note is in Ready Player One's Delorean scenes you can pick out the Kraco. Now this is probably because they used the restored car as the base for the CG recreation. Has the true identity of the original radio been forever altered by events in the future? or is the Kraco honestly the one from the past? I have included reference photos to show my findings.

[mluder]

Here's the thing, the few movie shots you can find depict a different radio. Now being as there were 2 other cars used for various shots, some not containing items used in the A-car, im having a hard time nailing down that this is the one. The shots I can find from the film are most likely the B & C cars.

For what it's worth - I noticed in the screen shots (assume it's the C Car) the AM/FM tuner display is flipped from the one you bought. I.E. AM on the bottom on yours and on the top in the screen grabs. Though as you note, this means nothing without shots from tha A Car.

Cheers
Steve

[StanMan PushN 88]

What are some off the shelf available brackets that you all have found to hold the flux "mesh" steady to the rods while driving? Home Depot/Grainger/Lowe's sources or a preferred direct link please? Thanks! I've seen some brackets (P clamps") with black rubber on the metal and of course, the original car with just pure metal?

[Jeffhucik]

What are some off the shelf available brackets that you all have found to hold the flux "mesh" steady to the rods while driving? Home Depot/Grainger/Lowe's sources or a preferred direct link please? Thanks! I've seen some brackets (P clamps") with black rubber on the metal and of course, the original car with just pure metal?

So you could just buy some hose clamps at depot, but if you want to be accurate the screen used ones are gold with a slit in it. You can get the exact ones used here:

http://www.moviepropelec.com/en/time-circuits/37-p-clamp-ep13-for-3-4-tubes-no-cushion.html

they also have the purple #13 size ones used on the exterior cables that go to the flux boxes, various inside cabling, and the on the bottom of the SID. they are really expensive though. I did some research and found these for the the purple cushion #13's:

https://military-fasteners.com/clamps/loop-clamps/MS21919WDE13

they are purple with a gold band with no slit but a fraction of the cost. the flux band clamps are a size 10 but the closest they have there is a 9. you could just toss the rubber isolator for the gold band. (in the picture below the purple looks darker than it really is, its actually a nice close match to the film color)

[Timebender]

Hey Mark,
Any chance you might have the diagram of the Mr.Fusion base and white lid, like you had for the TRW Time Circuits keypad??

[Mark D]

Hey Mark,
Any chance you might have the diagram of the Mr.Fusion base and white lid, like you had for the TRW Time Circuits keypad??

One of the best resources out there for accurate Mr. Fusion dimensions would be the Diamond Select replica. It was created from info provided by Temporal FX and the time machine restoration team. Screen used parts were referenced in the creation of a CAD models but that info is not my intellectual property to share.

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Select-Toys-Back-Future/dp/B00O52T11S

There were some minor changes made by DS in order to create a product that could be mass produced, but the overall dimensions and details are extremely accurate. The main changes that were made were to split the top krups/white lid assy into two halves that could be separately injection molded. The original prop was a krups grinder bolted to the lower lid section and then it was all bondo'd together for a smooth seamless look. It didn't make sense from a production standpoint to manufacture it this way, so the top half was split vertically along the same parting line as the krups grinder itself.

The black base, latch mechanism and some of the other details were also made to look dimensionally correct but with some physical changes in the construction so they could be made from plastic instead of cast or welded aluminum.

Anyone wanting to create their own CAD models or 3D print parts for a customized build with an actual Krups grinder could use the DS replica for reference. It's a little pricey for what it is but as far as I know there really isn't any other widely available source for accurate dimensions. If I were hell bent on building my own fusion I'd buy a DS replica, measure the shit out of it, sell it on ebay, and then scratch build my own using the CAD files and a real Krups, 3D printed / machined / welded parts.

[Timebender]

Well, luck has it that I was able to get a DS Mr. Fusion for cheap on eBay a while ago, because as the seller put it “it’s broken”. It wasn’t , and I made off like a bandit on it. So measure it I will, and redo the lid to fit a real Krups (I have two). The plan then is to print the base and lid, and then offer those as vacuformed parts for a reasonable price to the community of builders for a lot less than other replica vendors.

[mluder]

Well, luck has it that I was able to get a DS Mr. Fusion for cheap on eBay a while ago, because as the seller put it “it’s broken”. It wasn’t , and I made off like a bandit on it. So measure it I will, and redo the lid to fit a real Krups (I have two). The plan then is to print the base and lid, and then offer those as vacuformed parts for a reasonable price to the community of builders for a lot less than other replica vendors.

Would you be willing to share the digital files so I might print my own?
Cheers
Steve

[Timebender]

Would you be willing to share the digital files so I might print my own?
Cheers
Steve

Of course! They’ll be up on Thingiverse when I’m done.

[mluder]

Of course! They’ll be up on Thingiverse when I’m done.

Cool!

[Justin]

The gold heatsinks are made of aluminum and finished with gold chem film. It's a type of chromate conversion coating used to protect the aluminum from oxidation / corrosion. It's a similar process to how zinc plated steel parts are finished to look yellow after zinc plating. It's tough to find places these days that will still provide gold chem film coatings because it typically requires hexavalent chromium. Most places now only provide trivalent chrome conversion coatings because of industry standards and toxicity of the hex chromium. Some places that offer trivalent conversion coatings will add a yellow dye to simulate hex chrome, but it doesn't look exactly the same.


Just wanted to give a bit of an update to everybody, I went and found a place that will do the coating (Santa Clara Plating Co) and they looked pretty nice when they came back. My phone wasn't able to capture the actual color very well, but I think that they look really good myself.


60002
60003
60004

[smcguiga]

Circling back to the hoses...does anyone have any info for some easily sourced substitute hoses (with lengths/diameters) for those that are really hard to find or crazy expensive? After spending the past few years purchasing, 3d printing, and building/modeling parts I'm down to needing hoses and I'd like to starting with "something close" and hopefully swap out over time.



Thanks!



I could probably write a book just on all the hoses used... there is a lot to know about each one individually but I'll start with some basic info. A few are still available but most are either NLA or prohibitively expensive for the casual time machine builder. I've spent more time than I care to admit running NSN searches to find hoses that are close that can be cut apart and made to look correct. Most were originally purchased from Luky's in Burbank, CA. This place can still cut and crimp hose ends so if you find hoses with the right fittings but are too long, or only have one correct fitting you can frankenstein multiple hoses into one good one.

A while back I was talking with another member on the board and he created this image of the rear deck and assigned letters to each hose:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49114&d=1487775963

"A" - Hydraflow Bulkhead Hose(s) - These can be purchased to original spec direct from hydraflow. Super expensive though...like 300 bucks per hose. Need one on the side of the car and the same hose is mounted next to the flux capacitor in the inside of the car. The end fittings and crimping ferrules have slightly changed over the years but are pretty much the same as vintage hoses.

"B.1 and B.2" - Vent to Bulkhead - Large hoses from the side of the vents to the bulkhead are different PN's for each side. These can still be made to spec from the original supplier, I don't have the info handy at the moment for the supplier, but if you're interested I can dig it up. I think each hose was a couple hundred bucks.

"C" - Hydraflow Janitrol hose - This simply inserts into the Janitrol and the other end connects to a custom welded pipe fitting/bulkhead connector that is screwed into the bulkhead. The hose itself is similar to hose A but is a larger size. Same green nomex casing over the hose.

"D" - Flexible Aluminum Duct - Can be purchased from NAPA and other auto parts stores, pretty standard emissions hose.

"E" - Oil Separator to Trapezoid Hoses - These have to be hand made from scratch and are a huge pain in the ass to make correctly. Metal flexible inner hose covered by a special SS woven double outer braid. We've had to machine end fittings from scratch since they are not available anywhere.

"F" - Weatherhead crossover tube - Used to be plentiful at Luky's but have not been available for a long time. People have made castings of these that look just as real as the originals. The end fittings can be painted with "Metalcast" anodizing paint.

"G" - Vent to Vent - Small black inboard hoses w/ 45 deg fittings that bridge across the black strip on the vents. These also came from Luky's and no longer exist. The set I have was custom made by butchering together various different hoses that had the correct end fittings.

"H" - Reactor Duct - Black corrugated ducting connected to plastic/PVC elbows painted silver. Each requires a different type of clamp. Lots more to know on the hose and clamps. If you want accuracy.

"I" - "Vent to Deck" - Small stainless hoses with 90 fittings originally came from Luky's. These don't exist anymore either with the correct type of end fittings. The set I have was butchered together using longer hoses with the fittings cut off and then crimped back on a shorter hose.

"J" - CAT Ducting - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cat.php - I'll have to look up the correct size. This same ducting is used on the interior of the car along the center console.

"K" - Orange and black exhaust duct - Connects to 90 deg elbow on flux capacitor through the bulkhead.


OTHERS NOT LABELED:

Hydraflow reactor hoses - These are the four reactor hoses that connect around the ring of the reactor and fit between the heatsinks. The far ends connect to the oil separators. These can be purchased from hydraflow or XRP to specs that are close to the originals. $100-$200 per hose though. Vintage ones are almost impossible to find in the the correct size, AN-5 so AN-6 reproduction are one option. The correct hoses have a single black spiral tracer that runs the length of the hose, the repros are either solid green or have a double yellow tracer.

Orange tube - Connects Janitrol to Zero can on rear bulkhead - Flexible Air intake duct. Not sure if the supplier for these have dried up or not.

[loyalty4life]

One of the best resources out there for accurate Mr. Fusion dimensions would be the Diamond Select replica. It was created from info provided by Temporal FX and the time machine restoration team. Screen used parts were referenced in the creation of a CAD models but that info is not my intellectual property to share.


Hi Mark,

I sent you a private message on Facebook. It'll only take a minute to respond when you're able to -- many thanks sir. :)

[Mark D]

Hi Mark,

I sent you a private message on Facebook. It'll only take a minute to respond when you're able to -- many thanks sir. :)

Yup, got it. My PM inbox was full here so I just cleaned it out.

[Justin]

Hey Mark. I head that during filming the SID was made to be an actual Spectrum Analyzer with audio fed into it and the level adjusted by adjusting the volume. First off could you possibly confirm this? And if that is how it was done do you have any idea what audio was used? Also there are some lights at the top of the SID that don't seem to light up, do you know if they were just dead/disconnected or if they just were not lit?

Thanks again
Justin

[Mark D]

Hey Mark. I head that during filming the SID was made to be an actual Spectrum Analyzer with audio fed into it and the level adjusted by adjusting the volume. First off could you possibly confirm this? And if that is how it was done do you have any idea what audio was used? Also there are some lights at the top of the SID that don't seem to light up, do you know if they were just dead/disconnected or if they just were not lit?

Thanks again
Justin

Hi Justin,
The SID was originally designed to be controlled off camera using a series of switches that would progressively light up the grid in predetermined sections. If I'm remembering correctly, there are 8 individual banks of lights, each powered through a relay that can be switched on separately.

The relays are mounted to the back side of the SID panel just below the lighted section and are hard wired to each bank of lights. There is no way to individually turn on a single bulb in the array. The several lights at the very top of the grid that remain unlit during "full on" mode at 88MPH remain off intentionally. The lights in these locations are not wired to anything.

The A car was restored so that effects ECU that controls the entire car can control the SID in several different ways.

1. In static 'display' mode, the car runs through a series of pre-programmed scripted events that mimic the car is accelerating up to 88MPH and traveling through time. The speedo, flux capacitor, plutonium meters, SID, and sound FX all are choreographed together.

2. The electronics can also function in 'road mode' on a running, driving car. The SID display will light up progressively as the vehicle's speed and engine RPM increases. The specific interval at which each bank lights up was researched and scrutinized by reviewing all scenes from the BTTF trilogy.

A spectrum analyzer version of the SID was also created by Temporal FX back in the late 2000's and was installed on several replica cars we built prior to the A car restoration. This unit controls each light on the SID individually and responds to sound input via a microphone. It also has the capability to receive audio though a line-in jack so it can "play" predetermined sequences using a sound file. Each vertical bar of the analyzer responds to a frequency range of audio input. If you want to see the TFX spectrum analyzer version of the SID in action take a look at this video from the 2010 Scream Awards:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zocoJKoaYc

SID action starts at around 1:00 into the video. Apologies in advance for David Spade's dumb jokes.

[Timebender]

Hey Mark,
I have a question about the vents - which I did as a separate post but thought I’d ask here as well.
This is purely going off Gary Weaver’s DXF file, because I noticed there are two different lengths for the vents in his file - each one being segmented- but there’s a long one and a short one - so am I to guess that one vent is longer than the other where it goes more towards the cabin, or does each vent have a long and short side?

[Mark D]

Hey Mark,
I have a question about the vents - which I did as a separate post but thought I’d ask here as well.
This is purely going off Gary Weaver’s DXF file, because I noticed there are two different lengths for the vents in his file - each one being segmented- but there’s a long one and a short one - so am I to guess that one vent is longer than the other where it goes more towards the cabin, or does each vent have a long and short side?

The vents are symmetrical down the centerline of the car. I don't have any of weaver's files so I'm not sure which pieces exactly you're talking about exactly but:

The large side sheets of the upper section of the vents (the big ones that mount to the engine cover) should have the same overall dimensions inside and outside, left and right. There are differences in the placements of the holes for mounting the various hoses, etc but these big pieces should be the same size.

The lower sections of the vents that wrap around the fascia and tail lights are made up of different sized pieces that are assembled in mirror image for the LH and RH side. The lower vent weldments extend out the same distance off the upper vent sections and and are "square" to the vent, but the odd shaped cutouts that face the fascia/tail lights are different for each of the three vertical pieces. This is due to the curvature of the fascia and tail lights. The outside vertical pieces are larger and the inside pieces are slightly smaller. The middle vertical piece is about half way between the inside and outside in size. The bottom plate of the lower vent section weldment is a trapezoid shape and not rectangular.

I don't know what kind of information weaver provides about how the parts are supposed to overlap either, but it's important that you mock everything up first and make sure you have the corner overlaps correct. You need to be sure of how the parts sit on top of each other, otherwise you'll end up with welded assemblies 1/4" too wide or too narrow. I'm not sure how his parts are designed if you are supposed to sandwich the tops of the vents between the side plates or lay the top piece on top of the the sides.

When we build vents we use a special jig that is designed to hold all the parts together in the correct orientation. This makes it more obvious how the overlaps are supposed to go and also holds all the angles square and keeps the overall dimensions in spec.

[Timebender]

Thanks Mark, that helps a heap!

[Mike1830]

Here is a foam board mock up of Garys dimensions. Sorry if some of the pics are rotated incorrectly

[petriomelony]

Here is a foam board mock up of Garys dimensions. Sorry if some of the pics are rotated incorrectly

Interesting. Perhaps he didn't get around to updating that part of the file, as it doesn't match his A-Car reference photos, and it looks a bit funny sitting on the fascia like that.

This photo, for example, shows the rear/lower part of the vent quite different in shape to match the rear fascia of the car:

61437 Source: Gary's Uploads to FB

Or perhaps he gets it cut as a larger piece and then customizes it further afterwards. He did say in a previous post that often times he didn't even go from drawings, he just mocked it up or had jigs or something.

In any case, I wouldn't hesitate to deviate from the drawing to suit other information as you find it. In my opinion, I would try to avoid contact with the fascia since it's painted, and try to have all of the load of the vents resting on the engine cover sheet. Perhaps Mark can elaborate on whether the vents should touch the fascia or not.

[Mike1830]

Ya i noticed that as well. I have a bunch of reference photos of the cut out so the lower part will wrap the fascia. I just didnt cut it out yet.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Mark D]

Sometime in the mid 1990's the the vents on the A-car were modified by the guys in the transportation garage at Universal Studios. The lower vent sections that normally wrap around the fascia to be flush with the tail lights were cut and welded to look like what you see in that reference photo. The point of the modification was to allow the engine cover to be raised and lowered without having to remove the lower half of each vent. Normally this requires removing a few dozen button head screws with an allen wrench and is time consuming.

An old ref photo of the A car in 1986 or so prior to modifications.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=61439&d=1571167776



And the restored A car with the vents fixed to look as they originally did:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=61438&d=1571167263

The design intent of the vents are to hug as tightly as possible to the fascia to make it look as though the vents are actually cutting through the car. For them to be "real" and function, big chunks of the fascia and tail lights are supposed to appear as though they were chopped out to allow the vents to pass through.

[Mike1830]

Hi Mark,

Are you able to send me the correct part numbers/ dimensions of the zero boxes that were used all over the car. I have 3D models of them but would prefer not to 3D print them. Rather have the real deal if they still make them

[Mike1830]

Sometime in the mid 1990's the the vents on the A-car were modified by the guys in the transportation garage at Universal Studios. The lower vent sections that normally wrap around the fascia to be flush with the tail lights were cut and welded to look like what you see in that reference photo. The point of the modification was to allow the engine cover to be raised and lowered without having to remove the lower half of each vent. Normally this requires removing a few dozen button head screws with an allen wrench and is time consuming.

An old ref photo of the A car in 1986 or so prior to modifications.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=61439&d=1571167776



And the restored A car with the vents fixed to look as they originally did:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=61438&d=1571167263

The design intent of the vents are to hug as tightly as possible to the fascia to make it look as though the vents are actually cutting through the car. For them to be "real" and function, big chunks of the fascia and tail lights are supposed to appear as though they were chopped out to allow the vents to pass through.

Was the original hoodlatch functional or did they rely on the weight of the props to keep the engine cover closed?

[Mark D]

So it looks like on the files that weaver provides there is no notch in any of the lower vent plates where they are supposed to contour to the fascia. You are left to your own devices to figure out how much to chop out (Green) so that you can push the vent forward into the correct location. The rectangular cutout in the big forward side plate should line up with the fascia (yellow dashed lines).


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=61440&d=1571168410

[Mark D]

Hi Mark,

Are you able to send me the correct part numbers/ dimensions of the zero boxes that were used all over the car. I have 3D models of them but would prefer not to 3D print them. Rather have the real deal if they still make them

Somewhere in this thread I thought I posted the PN list, but I can look up that info again and post it. They are still made by Zero in all the correct sizes as far as I know. I think the only difficult one to get was the VSR enclosure (Big box behind the passenger seat with the thumbwheel counter in it). That was a custom size blank and draw depth that can be made special to order. You also have to specify on most of them that they are left untrimmed so they leave all the the flanges intact from the deep drawing process. Otherwise they will cut that part off so the enclosure has finished edges.

[Mark D]

Was the original hoodlatch functional or did they rely on the weight of the props to keep the engine cover closed?

On the screen used cars there is no latch on the metal engine cover that replaces the stock fiberglass cover. I suppose you could add one but the way the original vents were designed they locked the engine cover down to the fascia so it wasn't needed.

If you add a latch you'd have to figure out how to mount it from below without drilling through the engine cover and up into the yellow/green T195 vent.

[Mike1830]

Yeah I'm still trying to figure that one out. I was thinking of an aluminum channel welded to the bottom so it's not that routing up through the top of the hood. My concern was I didn't want any rattling going on like if I hit a pothole or a bump in the road I don't want the edges of the aluminum fence throttle up and down and start damaging the rear fascia

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Mike1830]

I'll check for the post again but I seen multiple threads or somebody had asked you for the list and you would email them directly. As far as the VSR box I'm just going to 3D print that one since it's a little bit more complex

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Mike1830]

Sorry i typoed the hell out of that.

Yeah I'm still trying to figure that one out. I was thinking of an aluminum channel welded to the bottom so it's not running up through the top of the hood. My concern was I didn't want any rattling going on like if I hit a pothole or a bump in the road I don't want the edges of the aluminum vents thrashing up and down and start damaging the rear fascia

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

[Bob635]

Mark,

The size of the LED displays in the time circuits is a complex question. Unfortunately, there are two answers. First, if one looks at the shots of the time circuits in the car, the LED appear to be about 1/2" in height. However, if one looks at the point of view (POV) shots of the time circuits in the movie, the only way one would be able to view the time circuits with 1/2" numbers would be by having your face 6" in front of the time circuits. - which is not realistic.

What I did on my car was to use 3/4" high alpha numeric LEDs. This produces the correct POV when sitting in the car and essentially the same view of the interior.

However, note that the Time Circuits covered up the air conditioning ducts. This was never corrected for in the movie cars.(Fortunately, BTTF was shot in the winter so this was not a problem).
This was a problem in BTTF 2 and 3 and a large blower fan had to be mounted on the back of the rear deck to keep the actors some what cool - especially in the desert shots.

Bob

[Mark D]

Mark,

The size of the LED displays in the time circuits is a complex question. Unfortunately, there are two answers. First, if one looks at the shots of the time circuits in the car, the LED appear to be about 1/2" in height. However, if one looks at the point of view (POV) shots of the time circuits in the movie, the only way one would be able to view the time circuits with 1/2" numbers would be by having your face 6" in front of the time circuits. - which is not realistic.

What I did on my car was to use 3/4" high alpha numeric LEDs. This produces the correct POV when sitting in the car and essentially the same view of the interior.

However, note that the Time Circuits covered up the air conditioning ducts. This was never corrected for in the movie cars.(Fortunately, BTTF was shot in the winter so this was not a problem).
This was a problem in BTTF 2 and 3 and a large blower fan had to be mounted on the back of the rear deck to keep the actors some what cool - especially in the desert shots.

Bob

I guess it comes down to personal preference when people are building their own replica. Whatever you choose to go with for your own car is up to you since you're the one that is going to be driving and enjoying it.

I know the LED display/digit height came up earlier in this thread and since the correct size digits are NLA there is going to be some compromising no matter what. When we restored the A car we didn't allow ourselves personal preference when it came to accuracy, so in most regards we weren't able to compromise like we could have if it were our own car. Our mission was to restore the car to look exactly as it was originally.

We did have to allow for certain things that were beyond our control. For example, the time circuits 3 digit Alpha month displays didn't EVER exist as LED's. They were faked in with back lit gels. We were tasked with making a fully programmable LED displays so to make the restored time circuits actually function with LED's we had to make some practical concessions. Some of the letters faked in with the gels weren't physically possible to make with a 14 segment LED display.

[Mike1830]

Hello again. I am currently remixing a 3D model of the Mole Richardson connector for the flux boxes and was wondering if you or anyone out there knew the correct black cable diameter that attaches to the Flux Box connectors before i begin printing my parts.

Thank you

Mike

[EngineerGuY]

I know that Gary Weavers CAD data for the vents are somewhere floating around the interwebs. I've seen several speak about having it, any chance that is available still? I'm told those are the best to use.

[Justin]

Hey Mark,
I know it's not about the A car, but I was wondering if you might know anything about the hood box from pt III. Specifically I would like to know about the large coil (resistor?) in the middle and the 4 core device (that I do not know the name of) on the front drivers side of the box.

Thanks
Justin

[EngineerGuY]

Hey Mark,
I know it's not about the A car, but I was wondering if you might know anything about the hood box from pt III. Specifically I would like to know about the large coil (resistor?) in the middle and the 4 core device (that I do not know the name of) on the front drivers side of the box.

Thanks
Justin

You might want to hit up Patrick Shea on facebook, as he now owns the original screen used hood box that was finally found. I have some high resolution pictures of it that I'm not allowed to show yet, but if you reach out to him I think he would be more than willing to help you out. Aside from Mark, who is a wealth of knowledge!

[Mark D]

Hey Mark,
I know it's not about the A car, but I was wondering if you might know anything about the hood box from pt III. Specifically I would like to know about the large coil (resistor?) in the middle and the 4 core device (that I do not know the name of) on the front drivers side of the box.

Thanks
Justin


The large coil is called a "Transmitter coil". I don't have all my info handy but I think it's from a BC610 radio?

This should at least get you in the ballpark:
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GCEB_enUS844US844&sxsrf=ACYBGNSsqeS__4Xlk-8EQvSwZ6gwrRk_OQ:1575993504571&q=bc+610+transmitter+coil&tbm=isch&source=univ&safe=off&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwizi4iouavmAhVKPq0KHRp6B2EQsAR6BAgKEAE&biw=1314&bih=745

The 4 core device is referred to as the "cage resistor" and I think it was originally made by GE.

[Justin]

The large coil is called a "Transmitter coil". I don't have all my info handy but I think it's from a BC610 radio?

This should at least get you in the ballpark:
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GCEB_enUS844US844&sxsrf=ACYBGNSsqeS__4Xlk-8EQvSwZ6gwrRk_OQ:1575993504571&q=bc+610+transmitter+coil&tbm=isch&source=univ&safe=off&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwizi4iouavmAhVKPq0KHRp6B2EQsAR6BAgKEAE&biw=1314&bih=745

The 4 core device is referred to as the "cage resistor" and I think it was originally made by GE.

Thanks for the information, it's really great to learn about the coil, however I was trying to reference this part in the middle. Just from my online searching it seems like it is a high power resistor of some sort made for high voltage applications, but I could be totally off.

[Mark D]

Thanks for the information, it's really great to learn about the coil, however I was trying to reference this part in the middle. Just from my online searching it seems like it is a high power resistor of some sort made for high voltage applications, but I could be totally off.

Ah, ok sorry for the confusion

That part is called an "Edgewound Resistor"

[Justin]

Ah, ok sorry for the confusion

That part is called an "Edgewound Resistor"

Thanks so much! If I could bug you about one more part, could you tell me what these are? They almost look like some upside down meter of some sort, but that's more of a guess than anything.
62056

[EngineerGuY]

Hey Mark... or anyone else that has built a time machine. Is there a "master list" over all the parts needed and also descriptions? In all my years I've never seen anyone assemble and actual list anywhere of parts needed for a conversion. I don't think it would be hard to do, kind of Bill of Materials with pictures so to speak.

[Mark D]

Hey Mark... or anyone else that has built a time machine. Is there a "master list" over all the parts needed and also descriptions? In all my years I've never seen anyone assemble and actual list anywhere of parts needed for a conversion. I don't think it would be hard to do, kind of Bill of Materials with pictures so to speak.

This is something that is going to be released as a part of Joe Walser's upcoming book and is the culmination of 15+ years of research from a couple dozen people. From my own personal experience I can tell you that putting something like this together is an insane amount of work. There's really no way to stop at just creating a list of parts due to the large number of custom fabricated parts that need to be built as well. All of those piece parts, dimensions, hole locations, weldment assembly prints, etc. are needed above and beyond just the parts you need to buy. There is also a seemingly endless amount of assembly hardware for all the various parts, labels/decals, stamps, paint codes, etc.

I'm not actively involved with the book project at this point but from my previous work know the goal is to include as much information as possible. It's intended to be a guide that would allow a person to (accurately) convert a DeLorean into a time machine

[EngineerGuY]

This is something that is going to be released as a part of Joe Walser's upcoming book and is the culmination of 15+ years of research from a couple dozen people. From my own personal experience I can tell you that putting something like this together is an insane amount of work. There's really no way to stop at just creating a list of parts due to the large number of custom fabricated parts that need to be built as well. All of those piece parts, dimensions, hole locations, weldment assembly prints, etc. are needed above and beyond just the parts you need to buy. There is also a seemingly endless amount of assembly hardware for all the various parts, labels/decals, stamps, paint codes, etc.

I'm not actively involved with the book project at this point but from my previous work know the goal is to include as much information as possible. It's intended to be a guide that would allow a person to (accurately) convert a DeLorean into a time machine


Thanks Mark I'll reach out to Joe.

[FTFF]

Mark,

Which of the online builders/ sellers were a part of the official Back to the Future A car restoration at Universal?

[EngineerGuY]

Mark,

Which of the online builders/ sellers were a part of the official Back to the Future A car restoration at Universal?


Here is the entire team:

Team Leaders
Joe Walser
Terry Matalas

Team Members
Joe Kovacs
Mark Dehlinger
Ken Kapalowski
Sean Bishop
Scott Miller
Rob Klein
Ara Kourchians
Nathan Clark
Arthur Lea
Eddie Dennis
Eddie Hillery
Chat Schweitzer
Andrew Wells

Additional Stock DeLorean Restoration
Danny Botkin
Stephen & Cameron Wynne
Alex Abdalla
Mike Wolterbeek

Time Machine sponsored by
Brannon Braga

Special thanks for their contributions
Andrew Hagan, Steven Kirk, Bill & Patricia Shea, Charles Bocock, Ronald Ferguson, Michael Beach, The Hollywood Casino in Tunica, AvtechTyee, Buddy Luna & RDS Wire, Beth Aswell & Universal Studios Orlands, John Murdy, Malcolm Archer, Tom Siknitter, Gary Ambrosia, J Ryan, Spencer Boyle, Stephen Clark, Robert Mosley, Donsteger, Anna White, Steve Concotelli, Richard M. Lea, Gene Smith, Cindy Walser, Travis Fickett, Amy Matalas, and the original DeLorean Time Machine Builder's Group: Team Fight Club.

[Fabius_Uy]

Hi there, I don´t know if this was discussed before (try to use the search in this thread but found nothing)

Does anyone know the measures of the TCD enclosure 6061 aluminium sheets? (both lateral and upper) I know that they used 3 LMB heeger boxes which makes the overall width about 216mm plus 6mm of the 2 6061 aluminium sheets.

I would need the measurementes both in width and length (or length and height) of the lateral plates and the upper one (upper one would be something like "222mm x YYY mm")

Thanks in advance!

[Fabius_Uy]

Hi me again, this time with an odd one.

Does anyone know the tones used for the TCD FX? seems from the BTTF 1 movie that the digit inputs are just plain DTMF tones but BTTF2 and BTTF3 they sound slightly different. Also the time circuits on, input and error sounds seems that are not DTMF but some other tone.

I do have some movie recordings for research but I want to make the sounds using tone generation

If anyone can point me in the right direction it will be much appreciated

Regards

[EngineerGuY]

Hi me again, this time with an odd one.

Does anyone know the tones used for the TCD FX? seems from the BTTF 1 movie that the digit inputs are just plain DTMF tones but BTTF2 and BTTF3 they sound slightly different. Also the time circuits on, input and error sounds seems that are not DTMF but some other tone.

I do have some movie recordings for research but I want to make the sounds using tone generation

If anyone can point me in the right direction it will be much appreciated

Regards


If you can't find it here, head over to the Facebook group "Delorean Time Machine Builders Group". Anything and everything you need is there.

[Fabius_Uy]

If you can't find it here, head over to the Facebook group "Delorean Time Machine Builders Group". Anything and everything you need is there.

Thanks

[EngineerGuY]

Hey Mark is there a wiring diagram anywhere? I know everyone has their cars built differently. But a basic diagram for having the time circuits, plutonium lights, flux, spectrum analyzer, roof console all synced together? I'll have to figure out the other stuff as I go but thought I'd start there.

[Fabius_Uy]

OK cool, that won't be a problem at all, I'll pull open the model file and snap a few dimensions for you.

Hi Mark

Im also looking for the readout displays measurements, but could not find the info posted.

Can you shoot them over PM? or here?

Best regards and thanks

[Mark D]

Hey Mark is there a wiring diagram anywhere? I know everyone has their cars built differently. But a basic diagram for having the time circuits, plutonium lights, flux, spectrum analyzer, roof console all synced together? I'll have to figure out the other stuff as I go but thought I'd start there.

There isn't a wiring diagram that I'm aware of. When the boards for the A car were created (Flux capacitor, time circuits, plutonium gauges, speedo, etc) they were all designed to talk to one another but that is specific to those parts and it was all hand run wiring.


Hi Mark

Im also looking for the readout displays measurements, but could not find the info posted.

Can you shoot them over PM? or here?

Best regards and thanks

I have a drawing for the faceplate somewhere that I'll post here. There were half a dozen face plates created for the C car and they were all slightly different so what I created was an "ideal" version where all of the cutouts lined up at the top and bottom, and there were the consistent gaps between cutouts for each. In general they did a pretty good job making the face plates all match, but there were some small variations since they were all cut by hand.

[cpistocco]

Hello
I have not seen anything on the forum addressing the installation of the "battery cleaner" handle on to the TFC time switch box. To that end, I have a technique that seems to work fairly well.
1) Remove red handle
2) Find a quarter inch drive 8 mm (or 9mm- depending on who makes it) deep socket. Check to see if socket slides into narrow cylinder area of battery cleaner.
3) Go to hardware store and purchase a new screw (same thread as came out of red handle) 1and1/4 inch long. (length of screw may vary- depending upon socket....so test fit first as described in step 9)
4) buy some locktite while you are there....as well as some 2 part epoxy....and 80 grit sandpaper.
5) sand the outside of the socket with 80 grit sandpaper until rough and dull.
6) sand the inside of narrow cylinder of the battery cleaner. (I used a long piece of 80 grit sandpaper, which I rolled into a cylinder shape).
7) Place the small side of the socket (where the ratchet would attach) onto the handle receptor of the Dayton switch. It will be a perfect fit.
8) Put some locktite around the threads of the machine screw.
9) Thread screw through large end of socket into the handle receptor of Dayton switch....tighten...socket should be snug and tight to switch....with no play.
10) Apply 2 part epoxy to the socket, and to the inside of the battery cleaner.
11) Spin battery cleaner a few times to evenly distribute epoxy.
12) Allow to set.
I will post photos asap...

[EngineerGuY]

Any information on one of these parts from a Sikorsky Helicopter? Were there ever part numbers associated with them or a correct name for them? I've seen them called all kinds of things. I might have a lead on a real one, but if not I will likely have a 3D rendering made and then molded out of rubber/plastic.

63320

[Mike1830]

If you dont get one made from foam I have a 3D model of this that i found online and remixed to the correct size with measurements taken from an original.

I also split the model into 4 sections and it goes together with aliglment pins and super glue.

See attached pics of the 3d print.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200415/2ed8605b2f7dad32a50246c2aa21074c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200415/50eb003d2f499ae53dc4a51d34df5b09.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[EngineerGuY]

If you dont get one made from foam I have a 3D model of this that i found online and remixed to the correct size with measurements taken from an original.

I also split the model into 4 sections and it goes together with aliglment pins and super glue.

See attached pics of the 3d print.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200415/2ed8605b2f7dad32a50246c2aa21074c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200415/50eb003d2f499ae53dc4a51d34df5b09.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk



Wouldn't mind that 3D model Mike! I'll PM you.

[Rich_NYS]

Where does this go?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200416/a60e3cbeec5f4cd117be9694905d2343.jpg

[mluder]

I tried searching this thread but go no results.

Is there a master list of all the zero cans on or in the car?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Cheers
Steve

[Mark D]

I tried searching this thread but go no results.

Is there a master list of all the zero cans on or in the car?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Cheers
Steve

VSR Can (Passenger Side Bulkhead) - 1 EA - Z61-163A-2.625 Untrimmed (Square 3.81W x 10.15L x 2.625H Untrimmed. Custom draw depth requires larger blank)
Strain Relief Box SM (Bulkhead) - 1 EA - Z32-64A-2.5 Untrimmed (Square 2W x 4L x 2.5H Untrimmed)
Strain Relief Box LG (Bulkhead) - 1 EA - Z48-80A-3.5 Untrimmed (Square 3W x 5L x 3.5H Untrimmed)
PS Pontoon Boxes (PS Pontoon) - 2 EA - Z48-80A-3.5 Untrimmed (Square 3W x 5L x 3.5H Untrimmed)
Heatsink Box (Rear Deck) - 1 EA - Z80-112A-5.0 Untrimmed (Square 5W x 7L x 5H Untrimmed)
Shockmount (Inside Shockmount) -1 EA ZR35A-3.0 Untrimmed (Round 2.2OD x 3H Untrimmed w/ .27 Outer Corner Radius)
Behind Reactor (Rear Deck) - 1 EA - ZR35A-3.0 Untrimmed (Round 2.2OD x 3H Untrimmed w/ .27 Outer Corner Radius)
Trapezoid Cans (Rear Deck) - 2 EA - ZR75A-4.0 Untrimmed (Round 3.5OD x 4H Untrimmed w/ .27 Outer Corner Radius)
Pacman Cans (Pacman Assy) - 3 EA - ZT68-68B-0.56 (Square Lid 4.25W x 4.25H Trimmed to .56 w/ .25" Outer Corner Radius)

The large strain relief box and the pontoon side boxes start as the same part and are trimmed differently. The pontoon cans are mostly unmodified and you need to just trim up the 'ears' that are left over from the forming process. The strain relief box has the bottom cut to form the bent out side tabs that are drilled and mounted to the bulkhead. I don't have the exact measurements for trimming the parts, but there are some good photos of the pre-restored and post-restored car that show the boxes and how they are modified.

[mluder]

VSR Can (Passenger Side Bulkhead) - 1 EA - Z61-163A-2.625 Untrimmed (Square 3.81W x 10.15L x 2.625H Untrimmed. Custom draw depth requires larger blank)
Strain Relief Box SM (Bulkhead) - 1 EA - Z32-64A-2.5 Untrimmed (Square 2W x 4L x 2.5H Untrimmed)
Strain Relief Box LG (Bulkhead) - 1 EA - Z48-80A-3.5 Untrimmed (Square 3W x 5L x 3.5H Untrimmed)
PS Pontoon Boxes (PS Pontoon) - 2 EA - Z48-80A-3.5 Untrimmed (Square 3W x 5L x 3.5H Untrimmed)
Heatsink Box (Rear Deck) - 1 EA - Z80-112A-5.0 Untrimmed (Square 5W x 7L x 5H Untrimmed)
Shockmount (Inside Shockmount) -1 EA ZR35A-3.0 Untrimmed (Round 2.2OD x 3H Untrimmed w/ .27 Outer Corner Radius)
Behind Reactor (Rear Deck) - 1 EA - ZR35A-3.0 Untrimmed (Round 2.2OD x 3H Untrimmed w/ .27 Outer Corner Radius)
Trapezoid Cans (Rear Deck) - 2 EA - ZR75A-4.0 Untrimmed (Round 3.5OD x 4H Untrimmed w/ .27 Outer Corner Radius)
Pacman Cans (Pacman Assy) - 3 EA - ZT68-68B-0.56 (Square Lid 4.25W x 4.25H Trimmed to .56 w/ .25" Outer Corner Radius)

The large strain relief box and the pontoon side boxes start as the same part and are trimmed differently. The pontoon cans are mostly unmodified and you need to just trim up the 'ears' that are left over from the forming process. The strain relief box has the bottom cut to form the bent out side tabs that are drilled and mounted to the bulkhead. I don't have the exact measurements for trimming the parts, but there are some good photos of the pre-restored and post-restored car that show the boxes and how they are modified.

Thanks, Mark.

There's a restaurant going out of business and holding an online auction. Hoping I might get lucky and find some matches.

Cheers
Steve

[Timebender]

Simple but dumb question - how do you prep the phone keypad to fit into the TRW time circuits enclosure? Do I remove the existing keypad front that seems to hold the keys, and then break off the extraneous keys?

Greg

[Mark D]

Simple but dumb question - how do you prep the phone keypad to fit into the TRW time circuits enclosure? Do I remove the existing keypad front that seems to hold the keys, and then break off the extraneous keys?

Greg

I'm assuming you've got one of the GTE phone keypads that wasn't originally part of a real TRW keypad/enclosure? If that's the case, then yes you have to remove the front face of the keypad and replace with a replica that has blanks to delete the * and # keys. People have been 3D printing or casting that front face in addition to the green housing.

It's been a while since I've taken apart one of the keypads but if I'm remembering correctly once it's disassembled enough to swap the face plate you should be able to just pull out the two unneeded keys and reassemble with the new face plate. The red housing behind the creme colored face plate on the real TRW keypads that hold all the buttons still have the cutout/openings for the * and # but those buttons were just never installed.

You basically just need to mod your GTE phone keypad to match how it would have been assembled from the factory had it originally come with the alternate face plate without those two buttons.

Hope that all makes sense.

[Timebender]

Well it seems I have the same keypad that was shown earlier that are $5 bucks. I drilled out the 4 tabs on each corner plus the two in the middle, and it came apart pretty easily. And the new faceplate I have has matching holes for the circuit board to mount to it.

So it was easier than I thought.


Greg

[Timebender]

Couple new questions..

One- where do you guys get the gauges for the plutonium gauges? I know we have to mix them with new labels and all, but is there a source for them? My local surplus place may get them once in a blue moon, but I’d assume there’s a place that has a good supply?

Two: K4 switches- where’s a good place to find these?

Thanks!

Greg

[EngineerGuY]

Couple new questions..

One- where do you guys get the gauges for the plutonium gauges? I know we have to mix them with new labels and all, but is there a source for them? My local surplus place may get them once in a blue moon, but I’d assume there’s a place that has a good supply?

Two: K4 switches- where’s a good place to find these?

Thanks!

Greg

I'd suggest the "Delorean Time Machine Builders" group on facebook. A lot of stuff being sold to other builders on there :)

[Timebender]

I'd suggest the "Delorean Time Machine Builders" group on facebook. A lot of stuff being sold to other builders on there :)

Thanks - already there and asked as well but with no luck really. I do have a pair in my car now, I’ll have to look to see what make they are and then search around on the web. There’s a local surplus place and was able to score a few Simpson meters with the correct ribbed strip, but the round ones seem to be hard to come by. Anyone know what brand/model they are?

[EngineerGuY]

I'm always looking for spare parts if anyone is ever selling. Sadly didn't get to pull the trigger in time on Mark's orange tube, which was my own fault that I'm kicking myself for. But if anyone has anything they are looking to part with, shoot me a message. Thanks, hope everyone is having a good start to 2021.

[Timebender]

Here’s a question for the experts...

How is the Time Circuits keypad enclosure cut?

We know they didn’t mount the thing as it’s whole original piece.

Was it cut at an angle from left to right, or was it a curved cut? I have my model - both a full version of it based on the schematics provided here, and a cut version like it was cut on a bandsaw at an angle.

A fellow model maker did his based on the Moretto box.

So what’s correct, or are neither, and if so, are there any pics of the one used in the A car from a top or bottom view?

Here are examples and our respective models. The last image is the Moretto box in the larger image.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210310/0c8cd66eb986d27225d754a86da09b35.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210310/286f65a88df77bd2e9195709dec332dd.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210310/1102fa5aa236f90d266b41bd20f69f16.jpg

[Mark D]

There were differences between the A/B/C car. I'm not sure what other reference you have, but here are a few where the top/sides of the keypad are visible. I'd have to refresh my own memory on some of the specifics, but the top three pics are the A car, the fourth is the B car, and the last one is from Ohrberg's shop where there was all kinds of parts switching from car to car as well as replica parts being built, so take that with a grain of salt.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=65750&d=1615438685


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=65753&d=1615439757


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=65752&d=1615439623


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=65751&d=1615438705


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=65754&d=1615440074

[Timebender]

Interesting, especially the one with that extra piece behind it with the switches. From what I can gather, it’s really all about making it so the box basically can clear the side of the console- wrapping past it but at the same time aligning the front of it with the display unit.

[Timebender]

This may have been asked before, but scrolling through this thread or even trying to do a search is an exercise in futility..

Time Circuit Display dimensions? The reason I ask is there seems to be TWO sizes - one that Gary Weaver had, and I’m thinking is used by Bruce as well as VideoBob - and a smaller/ less tall one that’s supposedly the A car size.

On the left is the Gary Weaver, on the right is supposed to be the A car size...

Both of these were made by Erick Codeville.

I have one of Bruce’s, however it’d be nice to be more accurate. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210315/f39c1cb6fdfa888f973baba69404a7f1.jpg

[Mark D]

The correct enclosures are Crown Royal Series 852 (CR852)

You can still buy them from LMB heeger. Dimensions are listed on the website.

https://lmbheeger.com/cr852-bluegrey.aspx

[Timebender]

That actually helps. Thanks Mark for all the great info and time you’ve been giving here. In fact without your help I honestly don’t think I’d have been able to make a 99% accurate replica of the TRW box because of the schematics you provided.

Greg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210316/2a810e02e5f139b6def9eb85aa2db1ba.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210316/998c4638f0293e029e796af84df10961.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210316/5f516a1c91bc7703ca893adfe06b76f1.jpg

[Mark D]

That 3D model turned out nice. The drawings you were referencing were 2D views generated from a similar model I made myself. I measured real TRW keypad assy so all the dimensions are legit.

I posted a screen grab somewhere earlier in this thread but most of those have dead links

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=65786&d=1615870408

[Timebender]

Thanks Mark!

I've actually made an electronics motherboard (basically) that attaches inside via posts - and has places to mount the LED's, button, speaker, circuit board, and the keypad assembly.

6579365794