Front Suspension help

[krs09]

Ok, I'm gonna try to cram two threads into one. In a few weeks I am going to install my new front lowering springs (DPI) and front lower control arm bushings (DMCMW). First, are there any tips on installing the front springs? I know I have to use spring compressors to "hold" some of the energy during removal but has anyone discovered any quick little shortcuts or tips to ease the installation? Any pitfalls to look out for? It does look straight forward but any help (pics) would be awesome. Second is the front lower bushings. My bushings are totally worn but the arms look good. I figure I'm going to have to press out the old ones or maybe get lucky and bang them out (doubt it). Is there any tricks to help this along. I do have access to a press at work but I would be lying if I said I wasnt terrified to try it (would rather not destroy the arm). Has anyone done this recently? I have heard you can use a socket to press/bang out the old bushings, any idea of what size? Once again any tips or tricks to this without damaging anything? Any pics or a step by steps for this process? Any help at all would be great. Thanks everyone!

[jmettee]

Springs are the scary part. You basically have to fully coil-bind/crush the springs to get them out from their installed location. Certain spring compressors won't fit the DMC geometry. Do a search, there was a thread in the past 2-3 months on this & could prove helpful.

Bushings are easy with the right tools. I used a hammer & sockets to get them out of the upper, but you will need a press to get the bushings our of the LCAs....there is a lot of surface area of friction to overcome & a press is needed.

[Mark D]

Ok, I'm gonna try to cram two threads into one. In a few weeks I am going to install my new front lowering springs (DPI) and front lower control arm bushings (DMCMW). First, are there any tips on installing the front springs? I know I have to use spring compressors to "hold" some of the energy during removal but has anyone discovered any quick little shortcuts or tips to ease the installation? Any pitfalls to look out for? It does look straight forward but any help (pics) would be awesome.

I have a bunch of photos, see below. (Sorry some are blurry, cell phone camera) The stock springs are really tall so it took a lot of compressing to get the old ones out. The spring compressor shown below is from harbor freight. If you use a similar "clam shell" type compressor be sure to keep the large threaded rod lubricated with grease. I also supported the LCA with a floor jack from below to keep the spring from crushing the LCA against the frame.

Note: I have the upper control arm removed because I was painting the frame and powder coating all my suspension parts. You do not necesarily have to remove the UCA as it will pivot up out of the way. I also compressed the spring with the shock in place, but with the shock hardware loosened. Once I had the spring compressed enough to remove it I removed the shock the rest of the way, then pulled the spring out. This was for added safety to retain the spring in case the spring compressor failed while compressing.

Old spring coming put:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32612&d=1421856166


New spring compressed on the bench prior to going in:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32613&d=1421856166

New spring getting installed:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32614&d=1421856307

Once the shock is installed you don't have to worry about the spring pushing the LCA against the frame so the floor jack is no longer needed.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32615&d=1421856307





Second is the front lower bushings. My bushings are totally worn but the arms look good. I figure I'm going to have to press out the old ones or maybe get lucky and bang them out (doubt it). Is there any tricks to help this along. I do have access to a press at work but I would be lying if I said I wasnt terrified to try it (would rather not destroy the arm). Has anyone done this recently? I have heard you can use a socket to press/bang out the old bushings, any idea of what size? Once again any tips or tricks to this without damaging anything? Any pics or a step by steps for this process? Any help at all would be great. Thanks everyone!

Pressing the bushings in and out is not hard. You just need to be sure you're pressing on the outer sleeve of the bushing, otherwise you'll just push the 'guts' out of the bushing and then it's very difficult to get the outer sleeve out of the arm itself. The bushings for the rear links are identical to the front LCA so the procedure is the same for those. I used a 27mm socket which is just the right size to push on the bushing sleeve and still fit through the arm.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12800&d=1346341736

To support the underside of the arm in the press you can rent a "Ball Joint Adapter" set from auto zone / advance auto. There are a few different sized cylindrical rings that you can use to support your LCA from below while pressing the bushings in and out.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32616&d=1421857257

When installing the bushings you want to press by the outer sleeve as well, so I stacked a couple of washers to account for the offset of the inner sleeve. One I had to radius slightly as you can see in the photo below. You can also use the 27mm socket to press the bushings in, but it's more difficult to keep the socket aligned on the outer sleeve of the bushing.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12810&d=1346344916

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12811&d=1346344916

Here's the bottom plate I used to support the control link and give clearance for the inner sleeve of the bushing as it was going in... LCA's you can use one of the cylindrical rings from the ball joint adapter kit shown above to support the LCA from below when pushing the bushings in and out.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12809&d=1346344915


I highly recommend buying a hydraulilc press...you can get them on sale at harbor freight for around 100 bucks. It's one of those tools that once you own you wonder how you ever got by without it.

The one I have is similar to this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/hydraulics/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html

[dn010]

Before I owned my 20-ton bearing press & adapters, I once, years ago, changed all of my bushings using a socket as described above. I put a socket just a little bit smaller than the bushing ring onto the bushing, and then a larger socket can be used to only go over the welded portion of the LCA where the bushing is (I welded together 3 inner races from my old, used rear bearings that were almost the exact size needed so I did not use a larger socket for that part). I then put it all in a vice and closed the vice. Same to install. Heating definitely helps but avoid burning the rubber. For more stubborn bushings, I would push the rubber out with an even smaller socket so that I was just left with a ring, and then heated the whole thing up.

As far as socket size, I would take your new bushing and compare it to sockets at a store to make sure you get the right one. I don't' remember what size I used, but I know I didn't use a 27mm, I'm guessing because my socket walls were either thicker or thinner...

As far as spring removal, all good tips above but I didn't see anyone mention to make sure the spring compressors don't come in contact with the frame otherwise you'll be doing a bit of touch-up where the epoxy scrapped off.

Good luck.

[Some guy]

The spring i found was trial and error. You just have to be patient. I used the spring compressor that was a long screw in the middle of the spring.

When i replaced my bushings in a press, i found it was putting to much presser on the control arm welds. i had to press out the rubber in the center of the bushing. Then i used a screw driver to bend the outer metal part of the bushing inward. This bent the bushing metal enough to loosen it. then it pressed out easier.

[krs09]

[QUOTE=Mark D;165098]I have a bunch of photos, see below. (Sorry some are blurry, cell phone camera) The stock springs are really tall so it took a lot of compressing to get the old ones out. The spring compressor shown below is from harbor freight. If you use a similar "clam shell" type compressor be sure to keep the large threaded rod lubricated with grease. I also supported the LCA with a floor jack from below to keep the spring from crushing the LCA against the frame.

Note: I have the upper control arm removed because I was painting the frame and powder coating all my suspension parts. You do not necesarily have to remove the UCA as it will pivot up out of the way. I also compressed the spring with the shock in place, but with the shock hardware loosened. Once I had the spring compressed enough to remove it I removed the shock the rest of the way, then pulled the spring out. This was for added safety to retain the spring in case the spring compressor failed while compressing.

Old spring coming put:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32612&d=1421856166


New spring compressed on the bench prior to going in:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32613&d=1421856166

New spring getting installed:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32614&d=1421856307

Once the shock is installed you don't have to worry about the spring pushing the LCA against the frame so the floor jack is no longer needed.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32615&d=1421856307






Pressing the bushings in and out is not hard. You just need to be sure you're pressing on the outer sleeve of the bushing, otherwise you'll just push the 'guts' out of the bushing and then it's very difficult to get the outer sleeve out of the arm itself. The bushings for the rear links are identical to the front LCA so the procedure is the same for those. I used a 27mm socket which is just the right size to push on the bushing sleeve and still fit through the arm.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12800&d=1346341736

To support the underside of the arm in the press you can rent a "Ball Joint Adapter" set from auto zone / advance auto. There are a few different sized cylindrical rings that you can use to support your LCA from below while pressing the bushings in and out.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32616&d=1421857257

When installing the bushings you want to press by the outer sleeve as well, so I stacked a couple of washers to account for the offset of the inner sleeve. One I had to radius slightly as you can see in the photo below. You can also use the 27mm socket to press the bushings in, but it's more difficult to keep the socket aligned on the outer sleeve of the bushing.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12810&d=1346344916

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12811&d=1346344916

Here's the bottom plate I used to support the control link and give clearance for the inner sleeve of the bushing as it was going in... LCA's you can use one of the cylindrical rings from the ball joint adapter kit shown above to support the LCA from below when pushing the bushings in and out.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12809&d=1346344915


I highly recommend buying a hydraulilc press...you can get them on sale at harbor freight for around 100 bucks. It's one of those tools that once you own you wonder how you ever got by without it.

The one I have is similar to this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/hydraulics/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html[/QUOTE



..... Sweet..... . . . . Love this forum.