Got my D- is this normal?

[Timebender]

So I brought home my very own DeLorean, and I'm so excited! One quick question - is it normal for one set of lights to be on when the tail lights are on?

32635

[Dangermouse]

Yes, if it had been modified for DRLs which many have.

[Rich]

Not sure what you mean by "when one set of lights is on". Which lights specifically?

The OEM setup is listed this way in terms of how many pushes on the 3-position light switch.
- First push and release: Taillights, parking lamps, side marker lamps, instrument cluster lamps, plus internal lamps inside hazard and light switches.
- Second push and release: Adds headlights
- Third push and release: Lights off

As noted, mods may have been done, so "normal" depends on how you define that.

[Timebender]

Sorry, I meant one column of lights on the rear lights, vs the whole red section being lit. I know the outer red is the brake lights, but thought they were dimmer in running mode. Also, my driver side mirror sounds like it's working fine, but the mirror is loose, so adjusting it doesn't do much. How can I fix that?

[refugeefromcalif]

Sorry, I meant one column of lights on the rear lights, vs the whole red section being lit. I know the outer red is the brake lights, but thought they were dimmer in running mode.

Congrats on getting your DeLorean!
The OEM sequence is, tail light in the middle. Stop/brake lights are the inner and outer column one.
The pic you posted shows the correct tail lights on.

George

[ALEXAKOS]

Congrats on the new Delo.
It's not normal for the license plate lights to be off;)
The rest is fine;)

[OverlandMan]

So I brought home my very own DeLorean, and I'm so excited! One quick question - is it normal for one set of lights to be on when the tail lights are on?

32635

Congrats man! I know you've been wanting one for a while. Look forward to seeing more pics and details.

[Timebender]

Thanks guys. I also noticed the passenger door lights aren't coming on as well. I'll check the bulbs- might order the LED kit anyway, but if that's not the problem, could be the door plunger needs to be cleaned?

[Dangermouse]

Check that the door plunger switch isn't disconnected.

It's often done to ensure that the battery doesn't run down at a show, or if the door lights don't turn off when the car is parked, particularly when fitted with incandescents.

[Timebender]

Interestingly enough, I looked back at the photo and the passenger door lights were on, but when I parked it in the garage and then went back out to put something in the car on that side, the lights didn't come on. I did have the headlights on when I took the photo, but I don't think that would have anything to do with it. Could be a dirty plunger.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Interestingly enough, I looked back at the photo and the passenger door lights were on, but when I parked it in the garage and then went back out to put something in the car on that side, the lights didn't come on. I did have the headlights on when I took the photo, but I don't think that would have anything to do with it. Could be a dirty plunger.

If all the Courtesy lights are off, you may have my dome light unit installed. If so, to get them back on, close all the doors.

[Timebender]

I'll have to look when I get home. When I had both doors open, the door lights on the passenger side were on, but when I just did the passenger door, no lights. Also, the dome light was off so I tilted it forward and it came on (guess there's off and only on when the door is open?) but faded nicely after I closed the doors.

[refugeefromcalif]

the dome light was off so I tilted it forward and it came on (guess there's off and only on when the door is open?) but faded nicely after I closed the doors.

Both dome lights are a 3 position rocker. Only on with doors open, off and always on.

George

[Timebender]

Good to know. I'll take a look when I get home. I was going to drive it to work today, but need to pull off the mirror glass on the driver side as something is loose. The motor does make sound so I know that's working. I read on another thread about the two red studs possibly being loose or out of their guides..

[Rich]

Congrats on the new Delo.
It's not normal for the license plate lights to be off;)

Yes, good catch on the license lamp.

As long as Timebender is in lamp-check mode with the new ride (congrats!), suggesting that the brake lamps get a good look. And the two reverse lamps and hazards/turns for good measure. The rear lamp "circuit boards" inside the assembly have known issues.

Normal brake lamps are 4 total, 2 per side, one each inboard and outboard of taillamp, and many times brighter than the taillamps. This is a significant safety item to look after on a regular basis with D's that are still running with the original boards.

Brake lamp inspection: If you haven't got a helper to push the brake pedal just set up your phone or camera back there and get a video clip while you press the pedal, ignition ON.

[Timebender]

Thanks Rich! I know the brakes and signals work, but how bright or if all are coming on I don't know. Would be nice if there was a dim running light option for the rear lights so people behind saw the whole beauty of the tail light design at night.

[Rich]

Thanks Rich! I know the brakes and signals work, but how bright or if all are coming on I don't know. Would be nice if there was a dim running light option for the rear lights so people behind saw the whole beauty of the tail light design at night.

Good.

If you know the brake lamps are working then you have seen them. Have you counted them to see if all 4 are working?

Your D's brake lighting should be bright in each of the 4 segments back there. Try looking at them without the taillights off, too. Don't be surprised if one or more brake lamps is off or not fully bright - and then fix whatever isn't right. Try the test in a dim-light condition such as early evening and view from a distance, not up close or at an angle. If you're not sure how bright they should be look at the lights on another car next to it. The rear lighting levels are set in a fixed range by NHTSA and likely are the same today as in '81.

Again, if you need to inspect the lights without a helper then get a video clip of what's going on.

Short of adding a high-mounted brake light a regular test-and-repair session is your best defense against a rear-ender.

Being concerned that people can appreciate the rear lamp clusters is great; all the more reason to be sure that all 8 of the lights in those two clusters are working correctly.

[Timebender]

Thanks for the advice Rich.

[Rich]

Typos now corrected:

....Your D's brake lighting should be bright in each of the 4 segments back there. Try looking at them with the taillights off, too. Don't be surprised to find one or more brake lamps is off or not fully bright - and then fix whatever isn't right. Try the test in a dim-light condition, such as early evening, and view from a distance, not up close or at an angle. If you're not sure how bright they should be look at the lights on another car next to it. ...

[Timebender]

The good news is all the brake lamps come on but could stand to be a little brighter. Also, figured out the passenger door lights only come on when the driver door is open, as there's only a door plunger on the driver door. There's also a place for another switch above that and one on the passenger side with a dummy tab in it. All normal I guess? Also, my seal against the lower outside right corner of the driver window looks shrunken and doesn't meet up with the tollbooth window- and the tollbooth window rubber on the bottom is kinda short too.

And here's the VIN plate32638

[ALEXAKOS]

Nice round number!
Is this Delo getting any movie props?

[Timebender]

Maybe down the road... For now we'll be using it at where I work with some ideas for home/car automation and talking to each other, as well as maybe some upgrades to make the car semi-autonomous.

[ALEXAKOS]

Sounds interesting. That's a real way to take a Delo into the future!

[Rich]

Answers inserted and below:

The good news is all the brake lamps come on but could stand to be a little brighter. Good. Also, figured out the passenger door lights only come on when the driver door is open, as there's only a door plunger on the driver door. There's also a place for another switch above that and one on the passenger side with a dummy tab in it. All normal I guess? No, not normal. Also, my seal against the lower outside right corner of the driver window looks shrunken and doesn't meet up with the tollbooth window- and the tollbooth window rubber on the bottom is kinda short too. Photo? The outer drop glass seals are replaceable.

And here's the VIN plate32638

Normal: When either door opens the 3 clearance lamps on that door go on. The 3 lamps on the other door do not go on when opposite door is open. When either door opens the interior lamps get power (but are independently switchable, too). There is a door/interior lamp plunger on both door jambs. A second plunger on the driver side, one you are apparently also missing, is for the ignition key buzzer.

So your D is missing one door plunger/switch on each side and somebody fooled with the door lamp wiring.

You may already know one handy reference for sorting out some of the wiring issues, including this one:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40-All-Wiring-Schematics

[Timebender]

Looks like I need to get a couple plungers and figure out what the PPO did to get the passenger door to light up with the driver door open...

[Jonathan]

Normal: When either door opens the 3 clearance lamps on that door go on. The 3 lamps on the other door do not go on when opposite door is open.

Rich... something further to what you mentioned... isn't there one or more diodes in that door lighting circuit that accomplish this? And I mean how either door open will trigger the "door is ajar" warning light but only the door that is open will have its lights come on? Is that right? Someone mentioned that to me at DCS because they noticed through the panels that my passenger door lights were coming on when only the driver door was open.


Looks like I need to get a couple plungers and figure out what the PPO did to get the passenger door to light up with the driver door open...

Post some pics!!!

(Seriously though, take a few photos of the fuse and relay area behind the passenger seat as that'll tell pretty quickly at least if you have some non-stock modules like Dave was mentioning.)

[Bitsyncmaster]

Rich... something further to what you mentioned... isn't there one or more diodes in that door lighting circuit that accomplish this? And I mean how either door open will trigger the "door is ajar" warning light but only the door that is open will have its lights come on? Is that right? Someone mentioned that to me at DCS because they noticed through the panels that my passenger door lights were coming on when only the driver door was open.

Yes the diodes let you mix the door signals to get the logic you want. In this case it's called a wired OR. Where one or the other or both give the dome light power.

[Iznodmad]

Awesome VIN dude. #5000 checking in here. BTW, I've only ever been able to track down the even/round #s of 1000, 3000, 5000(mine), now yours (7000), and 16,000.

[Patrick C]

Looks like I need to get a couple plungers and figure out what the PPO did to get the passenger door to light up with the driver door open...

Is there an alarm system? Many D's have had the door lighting tied together for an aftermarket alarm system.

I tied my door lighting together for added footwell lighting. That way when either door is open, my custom lighting in each footwell goes on.

[Rich]

Looks like I need to get a couple plungers and figure out what the PPO did to get the passenger door to light up with the driver door open...

Yes, that's what to do if you want to get back to the stock setup.

As posted earlier, here is where to look for most of your wiring info. as you dig into verifying the wiring issues in your new ride. The interior/door lighting schematic is accessed via the small icon at the very bottom of first post in the thread.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40...ing-Schematics

As mentioned by others there is a 3-diode bundle that is central to getting the door lamps, interior lamps and the door-ajar lamp to work properly. The diodes - if your call still has them - will be found just to the left and ahead of the AC temp knob, more or less sitting on top of the carpeting behind the center console on left side. They are not in the relay compartment.

[Timebender]

Thanks for all the responses everyone! I've been reading a lot here for the last few years, now to apply all that as well as this new information. I noticed also a few things yesterday: one, the front hood doesn't pop open when I pull on the release. If I hold the release up and then pull up on hood, it opens but I have to help it until it gets almost all the way up- need new struts I know, but is there but is there a spring that helps the initial pop, or is it the struts that start it initially? Also I noticed a metal panel above the pedals that's loose and has some wiring attached by connectors that look like they end there. I'll take a pic later and post. Also have a loose AC duct on the passenger side. The clip is there but not wrapped all the way to the other side.

[Jonathan]

Thanks for all the responses everyone! I've been reading a lot here for the last few years, now to apply all that as well as this new information. I noticed also a few things yesterday: one, the front hood doesn't pop open when I pull on the release. If I hold the release up and then pull up on hood,(1) it opens but I have to help it until it gets almost all the way up- need new struts I know, but is there but is there a spring that helps the initial pop, or is it the struts that start it initially? Also I noticed (2) a metal panel above the pedals that's loose and has some wiring attached by connectors that look like they end there. I'll take a pic later and post. Also have a loose AC duct on the passenger side. (3) The clip is there but not wrapped all the way to the other side.

(1) - that sounds fairly normal. The hood won't pop up and open itself like the doors do. The torsion bars are doing most of that work and the gas struts only do the last part. It's somewhat common to not have enough latch spring force to get the mechanism to release and kick the hood up enough to clear falling back into the latch. This is where you end up pulling the release handle with your right hand reaching under the dash while your left hand grabs the lip of the hood at the same time. Those are two different issues though. Your hood won't open itself but it can be adjusted to at least pop up enough so you don't have to do the two hands at once thing.

(2) - have a look at this image: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10336-Assorted-helpful-technical-photos&p=152175&viewfull=1#post152175 and tell me if that is your metal panel. It is the door buzzer and wiper delay module bracket. It might not be a bad idea for you to have a look at it anyway while it's hanging down given your comments on door lighting (the door buzzer part I mean which is tied into those door plungers you are missing). Those brackets seem to fall down partially and hang there and finding its home back in the pedal box can be a bit of a feel thing because it's very hard to see while it's in the car. Dave S. helped by taking that photo showing both things on the shop floor a while back.

(3) - is it these clips? http://store.delorean.com/p-7664-support-strap.aspx They only came in halves. Must have been cut backs or something (just kidding). The screw goes into the underside of the glovebox insert and then that AC duct kind of gets pinched in behind it. You only need the front side of the clip and not all the way around it as you'll see it can't go anywhere once they are in there. There are supposed to be two clips spaced along that duct. Careful if you're screwing them into the bottom of the glovebox insert as originals can be fragile and the replacements didn't/don't have the holes predrilled.

[Rich]

....It's somewhat common to not have enough latch spring force to get the mechanism to release and kick the hood up enough to clear falling back into the latch. This is where you end up pulling the release handle with your right hand reaching under the dash while your left hand grabs the lip of the hood at the same time....it can be adjusted to at least pop up enough so you don't have to do the two hands at once thing.


As Jonathan says, a hood latch adjustment may provide relief and let the latch stay loose after releasing. See if your latch can be adjusted downward at all.

You can also try cleaning and lubricating the latch and the striker. Sometimes that helps.

[Timebender]

(1) - that sounds fairly normal. The hood won't pop up and open itself like the doors do. The torsion bars are doing most of that work and the gas struts only do the last part. It's somewhat common to not have enough latch spring force to get the mechanism to release and kick the hood up enough to clear falling back into the latch. This is where you end up pulling the release handle with your right hand reaching under the dash while your left hand grabs the lip of the hood at the same time. Those are two different issues though. Your hood won't open itself but it can be adjusted to at least pop up enough so you don't have to do the two hands at once thing.

(2) - have a look at this image: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10336-Assorted-helpful-technical-photos&p=152175&viewfull=1#post152175 and tell me if that is your metal panel. It is the door buzzer and wiper delay module bracket. It might not be a bad idea for you to have a look at it anyway while it's hanging down given your comments on door lighting (the door buzzer part I mean which is tied into those door plungers you are missing). Those brackets seem to fall down partially and hang there and finding its home back in the pedal box can be a bit of a feel thing because it's very hard to see while it's in the car. Dave S. helped by taking that photo showing both things on the shop floor a while back.

(3) - is it these clips? http://store.delorean.com/p-7664-support-strap.aspx They only came in halves. Must have been cut backs or something (just kidding). The screw goes into the underside of the glovebox insert and then that AC duct kind of gets pinched in behind it. You only need the front side of the clip and not all the way around it as you'll see it can't go anywhere once they are in there. There are supposed to be two clips spaced along that duct. Careful if you're screwing them into the bottom of the glovebox insert as originals can be fragile and the replacements didn't/don't have the holes predrilled.

So, yes and yes to the clip and the bracket. Little things but I'll get to them ASAP.

And how do I adjust the hood so it pops up a little?

[Timebender]

As Jonathan says, a hood latch adjustment may provide relief and let the latch stay loose after releasing. See if your latch can be adjusted downward at all.

You can also try cleaning and lubricating the latch and the striker. Sometimes that helps.

Got it. I'll take a look. Also, discovered my car doesn't like sitting in traffic long. When driving it gets to and stays at 220. When I sit for long or after shut off the car, the temp goes up- it reached 240 while sitting and the engine running. It has a C350 engine, big radiator in front but no fans at all. Looks like I'll have to get some installed sooner than later.

[TTait]

Look at the rubber stops (110186) at both outer upper corners that the hood sits on when closed - they are likely deteriorated a bit. You might adjust them up a bit, or replace them with new if the rubber is badly worn or even missing. Its more likely those need adjusting than the latch moving down. Proper adjustment is that the hood lines up nicely with the fenders at those corners, and the hood pops up out of the latch just a bit when released, enough so the latch does not re-engage. If you drop the hood from about 10" open, it will latch though.

I've got some guys up here in LA who will fit and install custom fans for you at an excellent price, you will likely need them before summer.

As it has a c350, is this one of Danny Botkin's former cars?

Congrats, and welcome to the club!

[Timebender]

Thanks Tom! PM me with the info on the fan guys. I'll take a look when I get home at the rubber stops. From what it looks like if I remember correctly, the hood lines up fine with the fenders towards the windshield.

As far as the conversion, I need to ask the PO or look into it via the VIN. All I know from the son-in-law was the guy bought it, didn't know it was converted, decided to keep it anyway and register it in South Dakota as he had a ranch there, with intentions of moving there permanently, but his wife couldn't make the trip, so they stayed here and he'd take the D out once in a while, as well as his son-in-law who's a mechanic would drive it once in a while. Overall it's not in bad shape. Need to regrain the hood eventually, fix the seal on the driver window as it's pulled away from the back, fix the wipes for the toll windows as they do go up and down fine, but look a little scratched.
Also need to replace the wipe at the bottom of the doors - don't know what those are called or where to find them on the DMC website - I thought I found them but it said they're window wipes, although they seem kinda big.

Going to upgrade to LED's in the doors and control panel as well.

Danny did do work on it a long time ago, as there's a DeLorean Motor Center sticker on the edge of the driver door when they used to be in Garden Grove, and a receipt from them as well for some work done. I'm going to call him this week and see if he remembers it and knows any history.

[David T]

Thanks for all the responses everyone! I've been reading a lot here for the last few years, now to apply all that as well as this new information. I noticed also a few things yesterday: one, the front hood doesn't pop open when I pull on the release. If I hold the release up and then pull up on hood, it opens but I have to help it until it gets almost all the way up- need new struts I know, but is there but is there a spring that helps the initial pop, or is it the struts that start it initially? Also I noticed a metal panel above the pedals that's loose and has some wiring attached by connectors that look like they end there. I'll take a pic later and post. Also have a loose AC duct on the passenger side. The clip is there but not wrapped all the way to the other side.

Check that the loop on the hood is falling into the center of the latch and not rubbing either side. If it still won't "POP" you have to tighten the small spring inside the latch. Other things to do. On many cars the latch is too high. You have to elongate the holes so the latch can sit a bit lower. Run the bump stops down so the edges are slightly lower than the fenders and use the bump stops to raise the corners even. That keeps the corners from shaking while you drive. Install a back-up cable so if you ever have a problem with the release you can still get the trunk open. If the struts won't keep the trunk up replace them before you get hit in the head. If you need struts the venders usually give a better discount if you buy a full set of struts for the whole car if you need them.

[Timebender]

Thanks David. :)

[Silverbullet]

WOW, you have a Chevy 350 in your car?? Do you have any pics for us?

Craig

[Timebender]

Took some yesterday though not of the engine - have to download those. But here's the engine and mount from some photos the PO took. I'll post some more pics this week. Also some photos I took yesterday while doing a photo shoot for my daughter's band, Sydney Blake and The Misters.

326653266632667

[Timebender]

I think I have a leak from the differential or nearby. Lots of black oily fluid around the bell housing, on the back of the engine, and on the ground. Started kinda small but now rather large. I thought it was the engine oil burnt as the engine's been running hot in stop and go traffic or on surface streets at stop lights - like 240 degrees, but gets back down to 220 when driving at speed, but the oil level is full and a nice light color.

Is there a fill tube in the engine bay, or does it get filled from the housing plug?

[Timebender]

Possibly the clutch disc caused it as I do remember a burning smell one time on Sunday.

How easy is it to replace the disc and pressure plate? I've done it on a VW before.

[Rich]

I think I have a leak from the differential or nearby. Lots of black oily fluid around the bell housing, on the back of the engine, and on the ground.

Is there a fill tube in the engine bay, or does it get filled from the housing plug?

Fill the transaxle thru the upper hole in the housing with the plug on it. Use a correct tool on the square plug head so as not to round off the edges.

A common transaxle leak point is the halfshaft seals.

[Timebender]

Is that right about dead center where the leak might be? I was thinking it might be coming out of the clutch bearing seal, as the fluid is black, and likely that from something clutch related. However, chances are the fluid hasn't been changed in a long time. At least it's not an engine leak.

[Nicholas R]

Possibly the clutch disc caused it as I do remember a burning smell one time on Sunday.

How easy is it to replace the disc and pressure plate? I've done it on a VW before.

It's difficult in any car, let alone a DeLoean. But with a Chevy 350 installed, you may have a lot of other unknown challenges as well...

[Dangermouse]

Maybe it was mentioned and I missed it, but is it the stock DMC transmission ?

[Timebender]

Maybe it was mentioned and I missed it, but is it the stock DMC transmission ?

I believe so. I'm going to take it up to Danny's and have him take a look as he odd work on it many years ago.

[Timebender]

Did, not odd...

[Josh]

Maybe it was mentioned and I missed it, but is it the stock DMC transmission ?

Im surprised its still in one piece.

as for your PM yes you need rad fans... I just strapped some universal 12" units to my rad.

[Timebender]

I was looking under the hood a couple days ago and it has some massive fans on the back of the radiator, but they're just not coming on. Checked all the relays and each one looks like they're original- little bit of that surface corrosion on top of all the metal ones,. Fuse box looks great though. Guessing the fan relay needs to be replaced, if the PO who did the conversion used that and not some inline fuse somewhere.

[GR8SCOTT]

Congrats on your DeLorean!

[Timebender]

Congrats on your DeLorean!

Thanks! Funny thing is I wanted one for so long, and now it's weird to see it in my garage every day, like some kind of dream I've been having.

[Timebender]

Just talked to Danny, and he says the clutch slave is the only thing leaking - everything else looks fine. The question I have is, when it's leaking does differential fluid come out? The fluid I saw which at first was a drip then a big puddle was black, which I would guess the differential hadn't been drained and refilled in a very long time.

[David T]

Just talked to Danny, and he says the clutch slave is the only thing leaking - everything else looks fine. The question I have is, when it's leaking does differential fluid come out? The fluid I saw which at first was a drip then a big puddle was black, which I would guess the differential hadn't been drained and refilled in a very long time.

If the slave is leaking you should be changing the master too unless you know it was done recently. If you still have the plastic hose it should also be changed. While you are under the car check the level in the transmission, it is the same level for the final drive (differential) on the 5-speed. Clutch fluid is supposed to be almost clear but as it gets old it gets darker. If it is black it is way past due but it can look very dark after dripping over the dirty transmission. Look at the fluid in the brake reservoir. If it is also very dark you should be flushing the brakes too.

[Timebender]

Good to know. Thanks David.

[Timebender]

On a difficulty scale of 1-10, how hard is it to replace the slave and main cylinders as well as the lines?

[Rich]

On a difficulty scale of 1-10, how hard is it to replace the slave and main cylinders as well as the lines?

From front to back, with 10 being difficult:
Replace clutch master: 2 or 3
Replace clutch hydraulic line (after first removing old slave): 2 (increase that score a lot if you cannot safely access the bottom of the car where the clutch line runs)
Remove and replace slave: 6 .
The hardest thing about the slave is just plain getting at it and seeing what you are doing, including holding a few other things out of your way back there. Good lighting helps. Removing the engine cover helps if you happen to go at it from the top. Having small hands helps. Having done it once already helps.

Getting a local shop or a friend to do it for you helps the most....

[Timebender]

Thanks Rich. As I'm not in a huge rush and this will be a project of love, I'm willing to give it the old college try. Plus it'll save me a lot too money wise, and I don't mind getting my hands dirty. Sounds like fun actually.

[Rich]

Thanks Rich. As I'm not in a huge rush and this will be a project of love, I'm willing to give it the old college try. Plus it'll save me a lot too money wise, and I don't mind getting my hands dirty. Sounds like fun actually.

Go for it. Sounds good.

Those 3 jobs are all within the capabilities of somebody with basic aptitude, patience, ramps or stands and a decent combination wrench set.

Be sure not to spill any of the old or new clutch fluid anywhere near or above the (painted) frame of the car. If you have a spill clean it all up immediately.

[DMCMW Dave]

Go for it. Sounds good.

Those 3 jobs are all within the capabilities of somebody with basic aptitude, patience, ramps or stands and a decent combination wrench set.

Be sure not to spill any of the old or new clutch fluid anywhere near or above the (painted) frame of the car. If you have a spill clean it all up immediately.

Replacing the master is a two-man job for a few minutes of taking the bolt out and putting them back in. It's not a stud/nut but a rather annoying huge Phillips screw with a nylock not on the outside.

[David T]

Go for it. Sounds good.

Those 3 jobs are all within the capabilities of somebody with basic aptitude, patience, ramps or stands and a decent combination wrench set.

Be sure not to spill any of the old or new clutch fluid anywhere near or above the (painted) frame of the car. If you have a spill clean it all up immediately.

It also helps a LOT to have a helper to hold the bolts when you do the master. You may also need to replace the short hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder if it looks like it is sweating. The clutch slave can be difficult especially if you can't get the fitting loose. Just take it out with the pipe attached, you can bend it gently if you have to. Be careful not to get the brake fluid in your eyes or all over the place. Change the oil in the transmission and check the linkage for worn bushings.

[Timebender]

Thanks guys. So it turns out all the fuel lines need to be replaced, front and back. I can handle the back ones no problem, but is it difficult to do the front ones without the car on a lift? I understand the process of getting into the tank, replacing the fuel pump/sender, cleaning the tank stuff, but replacing the lines out to the hard line all be done from the top down? Danny has the car now, so should I let him do it, or do it myself as I'm on a budget?