Replacing rad and fans

[John U]

I am about to finally replace my radiator (had it a couple years....hope it doesnt leak!) and fans.
Any pointers or links?
How tough is this job?
Thanks
John

[Beachdrifter]

I am about to finally replace my radiator (had it a couple years....hope it doesnt leak!) and fans.
Any pointers or links?
How tough is this job?
Thanks
John

Hi John,

I did this like 8 yrs ago on my car, and it's a shame I did a nice DIY tutorial on here before the site "reset" itself.

Anyhow, the job is not bad at all. Just take your time and don't rush through it.

I ended up just rolling the front of the car on ramps and doing everything with the wheels on.

Remove all the plastic body panels from the front and loosen the sway bar from the 2 u clamps that hold the bushings in place. (by plastic panels I mean the air dam structure which includes the metal screen just below the bumper) No need to remover the front of the car :). This is also a good time to replace the sway bar bushings.

Take your time loosening the small nuts that hold the ac condenser on the radiator; in general , lots of these fitting can be rusted, so spray them good with lube and let them sit. It's a pain if you end up breaking one.

I just hung the ac condenser in place with a clothes hanger while I removed and replaced everything.

Everything comes straight out pretty easily once you unbolt and loosen the main brackets on each side.

I use Hervey's newer , smaller fans, and they work great.

Make sure you just buy new hoses linking the radiator to the main lines as well.

Sorry I don't have any pics from my write-up years ago,

All the best,

-Randy

[Beachdrifter]

Here is a PIC which was not lost when I did mine, this will give you an idea of what I am talking about,

It's pretty much straight forward, just get everything out of the way and unbolted pretty much,

--Randy

32933

[kings1527]

Like Randy said, not a difficult job at all. But something that you really might want to consider adding to the project is Toby's auto bleeder. This makes bleeding the system SO much easier and it's very easy to install. I have to do some work on getting the pics back up on my blog but I detailed everything with the install there. I have the DMC aluminum radiator and love it.

Autobleeder:
http://www.delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=DPNW&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=K1012DP-A

Just be sure to bleed everything out once you're done with the install and you'll probably want to use new coupling hoses and new clamps, too. I do like Hervey's silicone hoses and if you have anything original as far as rubber goes within that area, I'd recommend getting it out. So easy to do at that point.

I have Toby's fans in my car and they're great. Tons of people still love the OEM ones, too.

Overall, everything there is very easy to do.

[John U]

I have replaced all the short hoses and clamps.
I have Tobys fans as well.
I think that if the system is well maintained there really isnt a need for the bleeder. I havent had a problem with mine. I just raise up the rear of the car when I bleed the system.
Thanks
John

[andyd]

Hi, I have done this recently, using Ed's DMC EU rad and fans.

At the same time, a full front and rear suspension rebuild. And clutch, yada yada.

so I will obviously have 4 wheel alignment done ASAP when it's roadworthy.

Now, I also have noticed that my AC condenser will want replacing in the not too distant future. This will probably need ARB removal again.

So my question: should I have the car re-aligned just for ARB removal-refitting? My gut feeling is yes, but just wondering what you guys think would be best practice?

Thanks in advance, sorry for the slight thread hijack!

Andy

[David T]

Hi, I have done this recently, using Ed's DMC EU rad and fans.

At the same time, a full front and rear suspension rebuild. And clutch, yada yada.

so I will obviously have 4 wheel alignment done ASAP when it's roadworthy.

Now, I also have noticed that my AC condenser will want replacing in the not too distant future. This will probably need ARB removal again.

So my question: should I have the car re-aligned just for ARB removal-refitting? My gut feeling is yes, but just wondering what you guys think would be best practice?

Thanks in advance, sorry for the slight thread hijack!

Andy

The A/C condenser should not need to be replaced unless:
It is full of black gunk
It is damaged
It leaks.
You should not require an alignment if you do not change anything in the suspension. If in doubt just do all of your work and have it done last. Even if the alignment is off the car will be drivable, you may just wear your tires badly.

[andyd]

The A/C condenser should not need to be replaced unless:
It is full of black gunk
It is damaged
It leaks.
You should not require an alignment if you do not change anything in the suspension. If in doubt just do all of your work and have it done last. Even if the alignment is off the car will be drivable, you may just wear your tires badly.

Thanks David,

I agree, I dont want to replace it just because I can, but I do notice rather a lot of ally corrosion is evident, plenty of paint flaking off, it has clearly had a few knocks, and the threaded stubs seem to be quite "flexible"!!

So I figured that at some point in the not-too-distant future, it will need replacing.

And if it needed re-alignment after that, then I would probably put it off for even longer.

Its been so long since I have driven the car I just want to get it mechanically good before worrying about details (at least in the UK) like AC.



You should not require an alignment if you do not change anything in the suspension.

Well, I agree, but I also figured that this was kind of a change in the suspension, given the work the sway bar does, and how much effort is needed to fit it. I will have to take it for a UK MOT before alignment, but I will have changed every bush in all 4 corners, 4 shocks and 4 wheel bearings. Previously the DPNW sway bar kit was fitted, new front shocks, front springs, TABs and TAB bushes, but I did only about 100 miles like this.

It screeched on very low speed corners!!

(Now poly in the front, rubber in the rear. Have yet to run it since doing the clutch)

Anyway, thats good that I can replace the evaporator, and effectively not disturb the suspension setting by removal-refitting of the ARB.

Thanks,

andy

[DAP John]

I am about to finally replace my radiator (had it a couple years....hope it doesnt leak!) and fans.
Any pointers or links?
How tough is this job?
Thanks
John


John, After you drain out the water and drop the sway bar it's about 2 hours or less. Having the car on a rack would make it a lot easier or at least up on a ramp. I haven't done it in several years but my shop does it all the time. We ship the life warranty fans already attached to the 3 year warranty all brass copper radiator
( no aluminum) ready to install. All in stock.

John Hervey
DeLorean Auto parts
15 years

[David T]

Thanks David,

I agree, I dont want to replace it just because I can, but I do notice rather a lot of ally corrosion is evident, plenty of paint flaking off, it has clearly had a few knocks, and the threaded stubs seem to be quite "flexible"!!

So I figured that at some point in the not-too-distant future, it will need replacing.

And if it needed re-alignment after that, then I would probably put it off for even longer.

Its been so long since I have driven the car I just want to get it mechanically good before worrying about details (at least in the UK) like AC.



Well, I agree, but I also figured that this was kind of a change in the suspension, given the work the sway bar does, and how much effort is needed to fit it. I will have to take it for a UK MOT before alignment, but I will have changed every bush in all 4 corners, 4 shocks and 4 wheel bearings. Previously the DPNW sway bar kit was fitted, new front shocks, front springs, TABs and TAB bushes, but I did only about 100 miles like this.

It screeched on very low speed corners!!

(Now poly in the front, rubber in the rear. Have yet to run it since doing the clutch)

Anyway, thats good that I can replace the evaporator, and effectively not disturb the suspension setting by removal-refitting of the ARB.

Thanks,

andy

On this side of the pond we call the ARB (Anti Roll Bar) the sway bar. Just changing bushings should not affect the alignment unless the old ones are very bad. I would wait and do the alignment after all of the other work is done. It should be the very last thing you do on the suspension. If it screeches on the corners check what size tires you have (they could be rubbing) and your tire pressure.