Unknown part?

[sccheech9]

Does anybody have any idea what this is? It was mounted next to the fuses. It was disconnected and I'm not sure why.

Thanks in advance

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/19/c27f93a76cdbb3c1077525c12f25afc0.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/19/691270a7fbf531dc51176f786853b762.jpg


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[mluder]

Does anybody have any idea what this is? It was mounted next to the fuses. It was disconnected and I'm not sure why.

Thanks in advance

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/19/c27f93a76cdbb3c1077525c12f25afc0.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/19/691270a7fbf531dc51176f786853b762.jpg


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Door lock module... Relays lock/unlock signal between doors. In other words, when you lock one door it should automatically lock the other.
They are known for failing and causing owners to get locked in their cars. The easiest fix is to unplug them.
Sometimes they are incorrectly blamed for other issues with lock actuator rod adjustment or solenoid failure.

Mine locked me in my car so I unplugged it. Eventually I replaced the solenoids and adjusted the actuator rods and was able to re-instate the module as it was completely fine. Because of the bad solenoids and rod adjustment my locks never fully read as in the locked position. This caused the lock module to keep firing trying to lock the doors. This also resulted in a drained battery once before I realized what was happening.

Advice... it's probably unplugged for a reason. Better to determine why before plugging it back in.

Cheers
Steve

[Jonathan]

That's the door lock control module.

http://store.delorean.com/c-285-3-7-4-fuse-boxrelays.aspx

It is number 16 on this parts page. If you click on the part though, it won't look the same as the replacement is new and improved.

Your door locks will still work manually without this module, but the power function will not.

EDIT: ^what Steve just said :) ...especially the part about finding out why it needed to be unplugged before plugging it back in. Getting locked inside the car is no fun.

[Josh]

you guys dont know what your talking about - its the bluetooth module!

I always thought thats what the symbol on the top looks like haha.

[sccheech9]

Thanks for the response! All the lights in the car are missing/unplugged. So I'm assuming it was some sort of electrical issue. Maybe battery drain? Wonder what's the best way to diagnose


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[DMCMW Dave]

Thanks for the response! All the lights in the car are missing/unplugged. So I'm assuming it was some sort of electrical issue. Maybe battery drain? Wonder what's the best way to diagnose


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With a volt meter. And an amp meter. Plug them all in and see what happens. If the door panels are off the inside lights will stay on all the time.

[sccheech9]

With a volt meter. And an amp meter. Plug them all in and see what happens. If the door panels are off the inside lights will stay on all the time.

I'll give it a shot once I get all the replacement lights. Thanks

[Dangermouse]

You will probably find that the interior light switch is unplugged - it's on the door frame by your left calf. Many owners unplug it if they have a battery drain problem due to the lights staying on

[Jonathan]

I'll give it a shot once I get all the replacement lights. Thanks


You will probably find that the interior light switch is unplugged - it's on the door frame by your left calf. Many owners unplug it if they have a battery drain problem due to the lights staying on

Have a look through the schematics in this thread and specifically the fuse and relay area one. Check to see what size your fuses are and compare to what they should be. The basics of things are in that fuse and relay area drawing, but the more detailed ones are in the first post, including the interior lighting system Dermot mentioned. There is also a full, colour coded wiring diagram in the Resources section to help you figure it out. It's not as easy to read as the individual ones, but it has more information on it.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40-All-Wiring-Schematics&p=7640&viewfull=1#post7640

[DMCMW Dave]

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40-All-Wiring-Schematics&p=84&viewfull=1#post84

This will help a lot.

[sccheech9]

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40-All-Wiring-Schematics&p=84&viewfull=1#post84

This will help a lot.

That's great! That will be a lot of help Thanks!

[David T]

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40-All-Wiring-Schematics&p=84&viewfull=1#post84

This will help a lot.

If you are going to try to use the original, unmodified door lock module you should cut the big red wire and put an in-line fuseholder in it with a 10 AMP fuse. The door lock module controls what was called the "Central Locking System". When working properly, if you lock or unlock one door the other also locks/unlocks. It also controls the door open light in the dash. When it doesn't work as it should it will lock you in the car, burn out the door lock solenoids, and kill the battery. There are venders that can sell you a remote locking system with a key fob and you can also add "door launchers" which will open the doors remotely.

[sccheech9]

You will probably find that the interior light switch is unplugged - it's on the door frame by your left calf. Many owners unplug it if they have a battery drain problem due to the lights staying on

Yes the driver side one is disconnected but the passenger isn't. The lights on the passenger doors are the only ones hooked up!

[sccheech9]

If you are going to try to use the original, unmodified door lock module you should cut the big red wire and put an in-line fuseholder in it with a 10 AMP fuse. The door lock module controls what was called the "Central Locking System". When working properly, if you lock or unlock one door the other also locks/unlocks. It also controls the door open light in the dash. When it doesn't work as it should it will lock you in the car, burn out the door lock solenoids, and kill the battery. There are venders that can sell you a remote locking system with a key fob and you can also add "door launchers" which will open the doors remotely.

So assuming that the module is operational, I can add the door launchers and it will give me keyless entry? Do those kits come with new actuators and solenoids? I haven't tested them yet, but the drivers door had a lot of rust and water damaged from bad door seals :(

[DMCMW Dave]

So assuming that the module is operational, I can add the door launchers and it will give me keyless entry? Do those kits come with new actuators and solenoids? I haven't tested them yet, but the drivers door had a lot of rust and water damaged from bad door seals :(

My recommendations on door launchers? Only if you are extremely patient.

And then:
-Put in a new electronic lock control module.
-Buy the solenoid upgrade kit from Toby to get rid of the solenoids in the doors (that are probably burned out anyway). They are a lot lighter than the solenoids too.
-Do the wedge-ectomy to the door latches (look it up). This keeps you from messing up the doors later by accidentally locking them when open.
-Optimize door operation such that you can walk up to the car and open the door from the outside with one finger on the door handle. After letting go of the handle the door must open the rest of the way by itself. The lock and latch system must work perfectly on both doors, and the doors can not hang up on the door seals or strikers AT ALL. You can not short cut this step.

Once you have done all of the above, install the door launcher/remote lock kit. This comes with the launch actuators, but you have to buy the solenoid upgrade separately.

You get all this stuff from Toby, and call him with installation problems.