No "click" or resistance when moving shifter

[bfloyd]

My car is currently in the garage up on ramps waiting on more parts to arrive. I've noticed ever since I've bought the car that when rolling it into and out of the garage the transmission shifter has no distinct "click" or locking mechanism to indicate when it's in a certain position. I can freely move the shifter from Park to the other extreme by simply pulling the shifter backwards. Underneath the car, the linkage is all intact and connected to the transmission. Is this normal or do I have something worn out under the center console?

[David T]

My car is currently in the garage up on ramps waiting on more parts to arrive. I've noticed ever since I've bought the car that when rolling it into and out of the garage the transmission shifter has no distinct "click" or locking mechanism to indicate when it's in a certain position. I can freely move the shifter from Park to the other extreme by simply pulling the shifter backwards. Underneath the car, the linkage is all intact and connected to the transmission. Is this normal or do I have something worn out under the center console?

Since you said "Park" I can assume you have an automatic. The lockout mechanism is located in the console in the shifter mechanism. If it isn't preventing you from moving it in and out of any position it has probably been forced and something is broken. Refer to 4-6-0 in the Parts Manual.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

You must have an automatic built before #004837. All such cars come with the "cobra head" (that's my own nickname for it) style shifter which had a very flimsy detent locking mechanism. This was fixed on all later cars that have a DMC logo shift handle. While the early style handle can be band aided into working for a time the first time you exert any force on the detent it will fail again.
The only permanent solution is to upgrade to the later design but it will cost you about $150- or so in parts plus labor to do so. This will definitly fix the problem. It all boils down to how badly do you want to hear that click and how much of a stickler you are about originality. If interested you can PM or call me for more info.
Rob


My car is currently in the garage up on ramps waiting on more parts to arrive. I've noticed ever since I've bought the car that when rolling it into and out of the garage the transmission shifter has no distinct "click" or locking mechanism to indicate when it's in a certain position. I can freely move the shifter from Park to the other extreme by simply pulling the shifter backwards. Underneath the car, the linkage is all intact and connected to the transmission. Is this normal or do I have something worn out under the center console?

[David T]

You must have an automatic built before #004837. All such cars come with the "cobra head" (that's my own nickname for it) style shifter which had a very flimsy detent locking mechanism. This was fixed on all later cars that have a DMC logo shift handle. While the early style handle can be band aided into working for a time the first time you exert any force on the detent it will fail again.
The only permanent solution is to upgrade to the later design but it will cost you about $150- or so in parts plus labor to do so. This will definitly fix the problem. It all boils down to how badly do you want to hear that click and how much of a stickler you are about originality. If interested you can PM or call me for more info.
Rob

It's also kind of important for safety reasons. Keeps you from getting out of Park unintentionally and going from Neutral to Reverse by accident. Also helps you to know you are in D not D2 or D1 since when you are in D you can only go to Neutral without releasing the detent (when it is working). I would fix it.

[bfloyd]

Thanks guys... I'll put that on my "to do list" once I get the engine up and running.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

It's certainly not a priority until the engine runs!
Rob


Thanks guys... I'll put that on my "to do list" once I get the engine up and running.

[Jonathan]

If you're like me and see it better with pictures, here's a couple from when I've had mine apart.

I agree with Rob and David that the early design is rather craptacular. Just about any amount of force exerted on the shifter while not pressing the button will pivot the shaft underneath and spin the locking collar out of the way, rendering it useless.

331683316933170331713317233173

The first few photos show how it's assembled/disassembled.

The part that does the locking is that brass collar on the stem that goes down into the recess there. On that block below, you can see the ridges on the left side that correspond to what gear the car is in. If you can imagine the collar in those notches, then pulling up on the button and raising the collar will pull it out of that notch and let you move it into a different one. Also notice how some positions you can slide from one to the next without using the button (from neutral into drive for example) but not from drive into reverse.

33174

This picture shows the parts on my work bench and you can see them individually (not all right side up, sorry).

33175

This is the block itself in a photo from the DMCH store page.

I have taken mine apart a few times and I initially thought the tiny little screw in the collar which you tighten against the side of the stem was the problem. I don't think that it is the problem though as I found the whole lower portion of that stem rotates. When you go to take it apart or put it back together again, you need to be able to have the lower portion separate from the top in order to get the shifter plate between them (the piece with the PRND21 on it and the console clock and rheostat). But since it has to be able to come apart, it now can rotate between the top piece of plastic molding and the lower and then that lower piece rotates and spins the collar out of the way and now you can move the shifter however you like, with or without pressing the interlock button.

As mentioned, kind of dangerous if you do so by bumping it while parked on a hill, but even worse if you ram it forward accidentally while driving out on the highway and you suddenly go from doing 60 mph to being in reverse because your passenger bumped it while fumbling around in her purse or something. It is important, but mostly cosmetic on the early design cars.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Correct Jonathan it isn't the detent slipping but the tube rotating in the plastic handle that is the problem. The "band aid" I was referring to was superglue but unless you're "MacGyver" you really shouldn't be holding your car together with superglue and duct tape hence the updated handle suggestion.
Rob

If you're like me and see it better with pictures, here's a couple from when I've had mine apart.

I agree with Rob and David that the early design is rather craptacular. Just about any amount of force exerted on the shifter while not pressing the button will pivot the shaft underneath and spin the locking collar out of the way, rendering it useless.

331683316933170331713317233173

The first few photos show how it's assembled/disassembled.

The part that does the locking is that brass collar on the stem that goes down into the recess there. On that block below, you can see the ridges on the left side that correspond to what gear the car is in. If you can imagine the collar in those notches, then pulling up on the button and raising the collar will pull it out of that notch and let you move it into a different one. Also notice how some positions you can slide from one to the next without using the button (from neutral into drive for example) but not from drive into reverse.

33174

This picture shows the parts on my work bench and you can see them individually (not all right side up, sorry).

33175

This is the block itself in a photo from the DMCH store page.

I have taken mine apart a few times and I initially thought the tiny little screw in the collar which you tighten against the side of the stem was the problem. I don't think that it is the problem though as I found the whole lower portion of that stem rotates. When you go to take it apart or put it back together again, you need to be able to have the lower portion separate from the top in order to get the shifter plate between them (the piece with the PRND21 on it and the console clock and rheostat). But since it has to be able to come apart, it now can rotate between the top piece of plastic molding and the lower and then that lower piece rotates and spins the collar out of the way and now you can move the shifter however you like, with or without pressing the interlock button.

As mentioned, kind of dangerous if you do so by bumping it while parked on a hill, but even worse if you ram it forward accidentally while driving out on the highway and you suddenly go from doing 60 mph to being in reverse because your passenger bumped it while fumbling around in her purse or something. It is important, but mostly cosmetic on the early design cars.

[Chris 16409]

If I'm not mistaken, the little ball bearing is what makes the "click" sound as you go through the gears.

33191

bfloyd, I think this is why you can just move though the gears. Your ball bearing might have popped out.

[Doogie]

It's also kind of important for safety reasons. Keeps you from getting out of Park unintentionally and going from Neutral to Reverse by accident. Also helps you to know you are in D not D2 or D1 since when you are in D you can only go to Neutral without releasing the detent (when it is working). I would fix it.

I have the same problem I think. I have a positive park, but not a 'click' feel whilst shifting to D or R. I have to kinda 'feel it' into position. I have #03589, so perhaps I should look into this also! thanks for the thread! VERY informative>

Doogie
:rock_on:

[Jonathan]

If I'm not mistaken, the little ball bearing is what makes the "click" sound as you go through the gears.

33191

bfloyd, I think this is why you can just move though the gears. Your ball bearing might have popped out.

Which ball bearing is it you're thinking of Chris? Is it on a parts diagram somewhere?

Were you using my photo to zoom into the lower left hand corner? That lone item in the corner there is the head of a screw holding the top of my workbench surface to its legs.

[Chris 16409]

Which ball bearing is it you're thinking of Chris? Is it on a parts diagram somewhere?

Were you using my photo to zoom into the lower left hand corner? That lone item in the corner there is the head of a screw holding the top of my workbench surface to its legs.

Yes I was zooming in on that section of your photo. I did not realize it was the head of a screw. This part is listed in the parts manual, t's number 19.

33195

Here is the link to the part on Houston's site. It looks like it is not in stock however:

https://store.delorean.com/c-294-4-6-0-auto-shift-linkage.aspx
https://store.delorean.com/p-9025-ball-detent.aspx

I discovered this was responsible for differentiating what gear you were in while assisting my friend reassemble his shifter mechanism.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

The ball bearing has a marginal affect on the shifter centering in each detent and I've never seen one pop out. The brass detent and the handle stalk is what makes the detent lock in position (more usually not) on the early handle as previously noted. No need to waste time analyzing the detent ball function as it has no "bearing" on the problem!
Rob


If I'm not mistaken, the little ball bearing is what makes the "click" sound as you go through the gears.

33191

bfloyd, I think this is why you can just move though the gears. Your ball bearing might have popped out.

[David T]

The ball bearing has a marginal affect on the shifter centering in each detent and I've never seen one pop out. The brass detent and the handle stalk is what makes the detent lock in position (more usually not) on the early handle as previously noted. No need to waste time analyzing the detent ball function as it has no "bearing" on the problem!
Rob

The transmission also has a detent on the valve body. In fact, the shift cable should be adjusted so that both detents are working together. Unless things were messed with they should be OK but I have seen where they were not.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Since his VIN is 003294 I'm 99% sure that the cause is the early handle unless it's been updated so I would suggest looking into that before investigating the other potential 1%. The new style handle would render the V.B. detent redundant as to locking the handle into position and doesn't serve that function in any case.
Sometimes I find the back and forth debates on this forum rather silly TBH about it. I'm sure enough about the handle being the problem to be willing to insert foot in mouth if I'm wrong.
Rob


The transmission also has a detent on the valve body. In fact, the shift cable should be adjusted so that both detents are working together. Unless things were messed with they should be OK but I have seen where they were not.

[David T]

Since his VIN is 003294 I'm 99% sure that the cause is the early handle unless it's been updated so I would suggest looking into that before investigating the other potential 1%. The new style handle would render the V.B. detent redundant as to locking the handle into position and doesn't serve that function in any case.
Sometimes I find the back and forth debates on this forum rather silly TBH about it. I'm sure enough about the handle being the problem to be willing to insert foot in mouth if I'm wrong.
Rob

I agree with you about the VB detent not being the problem but I mention it because if both detents are not "detenting" at the same time AND you don't have positive detenting lock-out at the gearshift dangerous things can happen. From experience when one part of a system is not right you really need to check everything. Because of the age of the cars and the multiple hands that could have been all over you really need to make sure everything is done right. As an example, if you find the inertia switch wiring was tampered with, you can assume you have to go over the whole fuel pump electrical circuit. I also mentioned the VB detent because long after the OP finds and fixes his problem someone else will have a similar problem and do a search and read these posts. I would guess very few people are even aware of the VB detents and that it is possible to adjust the shift cable. I do agree to check the obvious before looking for the Zebras ( a medical reference, when you hear the sound of hoofbeats do NOT assume Zebras!).

[Farrar]

I agree that the second design is better. I replaced mine with it, even though it is not VIN-correct. The metal around the sides and the little logo in the shifter just make it blingtacular. :)

I didn't replace everything, though -- I broke off the little stub off of the top, drilled & tapped a hole where it used to be, and then attached the new top with a machine screw and some washers. Looks hacky, but it works and no one sees it. And it saved me tearing apart the middle of my car in 105° summertime heat.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Yes David the cable is adjustable but is rarely out of adjustment and easier to get wrong than right so why send someone in that direction when you know it's probably not the problem? I believe you should save that advice for the person who actually needs it. Our concern should be with the person who is asking the question not addressing potential future problems.
As I've said before you can't cover all possible issues in one post. It's better to zero in and get to the most likely problem first as TMI can be worse than too little. Remember that these questions are often coming from people who are not mechanics nor are they familiar with Delorean mechanicals so steering them in the wrong direction can be worse than giving no info at all. It can create problems with things that were OK in the first place IMHO. Thats why I believe in advising on a step by step basis as they reply back with more information.
Rob



I agree with you about the VB detent not being the problem but I mention it because if both detents are not "detenting" at the same time AND you don't have positive detenting lock-out at the gearshift dangerous things can happen. From experience when one part of a system is not right you really need to check everything. Because of the age of the cars and the multiple hands that could have been all over you really need to make sure everything is done right. As an example, if you find the inertia switch wiring was tampered with, you can assume you have to go over the whole fuel pump electrical circuit. I also mentioned the VB detent because long after the OP finds and fixes his problem someone else will have a similar problem and do a search and read these posts. I would guess very few people are even aware of the VB detents and that it is possible to adjust the shift cable. I do agree to check the obvious before looking for the Zebras ( a medical reference, when you hear the sound of hoofbeats do NOT assume Zebras!).

[PJ Grady Inc.]

That "little stub" is actually a stud that is used to retain either style of handle so this mod may give you trouble down the road. If you need to replace that shift lever at a future date you will find it's a lot of work. This is not something I would recommend but wish you the best of luck with it!
Rob

I agree that the second design is better. I replaced mine with it, even though it is not VIN-correct. The metal around the sides and the little logo in the shifter just make it blingtacular. :)

I didn't replace everything, though -- I broke off the little stub off of the top, drilled & tapped a hole where it used to be, and then attached the new top with a machine screw and some washers. Looks hacky, but it works and no one sees it. And it saved me tearing apart the middle of my car in 105° summertime heat.

[Farrar]

If you need to replace that shift lever at a future date you will find it's a lot of work.

I know - I bought the parts (rod, bushings, etc.) and then realized that I am not going to do that job until I have to, and/or until I have access to a lift. I am at the age where my knees tell me not to do some things unless I have to. :P

Anyway, back to the topic at hand...

[David T]

Yes David the cable is adjustable but is rarely out of adjustment and easier to get wrong than right so why send someone in that direction when you know it's probably not the problem? I believe you should save that advice for the person who actually needs it. Our concern should be with the person who is asking the question not addressing potential future problems.
As I've said before you can't cover all possible issues in one post. It's better to zero in and get to the most likely problem first as TMI can be worse than too little. Remember that these questions are often coming from people who are not mechanics nor are they familiar with Delorean mechanicals so steering them in the wrong direction can be worse than giving no info at all. It can create problems with things that were OK in the first place IMHO. Thats why I believe in advising on a step by step basis as they reply back with more information.
Rob

One problem with addressing things one step at a time is that it is NEVER just one thing. Another post about the guy trying to adjust the idle and sluggish engine response with a mixture adjustment shows how you can get lead down the wrong path trying to tell him how to adjust the mixture screw when he had multiple other issues. Diagnosing and trying to offer advice by remote control isn't easy especially when you don't know the level of skill of the person at the other end. We all try our best but of course you have a LOT more experience at this so I will try your way. When a new owner finally gets his dream car and then realizes things aren't working as they should their first impulse is to try to make it right. Many have little-to-no experience working on cars but they figure what the heck, I will learn as I go! All too often they can't even properly explain the symptoms and the problem so it makes offering advice even more difficult. We all do our best to help since many of us went through the same (or similar) stuff.

[wnorris89]

Lets break this down into two points.

1. Rob Grady has been repairing these cars since day one at his shop. He has been in business longer than DMCH or any other vendor for that matter.

2. David T owns a work shop manual and is a Delorean guru that drives 500 miles a year.

I'm placing my bets on David since I always go for the underdog.

[David T]

Lets break this down into two points.

1. Rob Grady has been repairing these cars since day one at his shop. He has been in business longer than DMCH or any other vendor for that matter.

2. David T owns a work shop manual and is a Delorean guru that drives 500 miles a year.

I'm placing my bets on David since I always go for the underdog.

I appreciate the comment but it is tough to beat Rob's many years of experience working exclusively on Deloreans. He has seen it all. I have only worked on dozens, he has worked on thousands. In the end I would have to defer to his superior expertise. I would put Rob among the top 3 people in the WORLD expert in the Delorean along with Steve Wynn. Won't stop me from sometimes disagreeing with him. There are always things you can learn from another prospective.

[Horsebox]

Up to this point the thread has been top drawer. Very informative on an obscure topic. Thanks to PJ and David T .

Let's not feed the troll.

[Jonathan]

Up to this point the thread has been top drawer. Very informative on an obscure topic. Thanks to PJ and David T .

Let's not feed the troll.

Haha, ya, we ran out of French toast at the breakfast buffet just a moment ago. I think there is some rice pudding around if that will help cheer anyone up.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

How can we live up to this "top drawer" complement Dave? Thank you "Horsebox". I'm not going to ask how you arrived at that name and I feel slightly insulting addressing someone as such but have no alternative.

Anyway it's not a contest although I do think some people like to have the last word. BTW I've worked on a lot more cars than Stephen, as he'd be the first to admit, but that's not to deny his expertise in many matters Delorean. I'm just trying to set the record straight. I am the most "hands on" DMC vender along with (now retired) Don Steger and certain things can only be learned from that IMHO.

Now please James E. don't chime in with any "hands on" jokes just because I left myself wide open! We did have some fun on Facebook with your 3 phase air filter contest didn't we? I still think I deserve that pen and notepad set with my three "Likes" so maybe I'm just licking my wounds. I can just see the DMCH gang discussing this post up in Stephens office on Monday. All in good clean fun guys...all in good clean fun! To paraphrase a certain TV commentator..."Comment as you see fit".
Rob


Up to this point the thread has been top drawer. Very informative on an obscure topic. Thanks to PJ and David T .

Let's not feed the troll.