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View Full Version : Electrical Weird Lock Issue....HELP



jrandle
04-17-2015, 10:50 PM
Ok, so I just bought DPNW door lock actuators. Wired them up and plugged them in to them not working. Disassembled the door lock module and found D4 was blown. Replaced D4 with a standard diode and now my doors lock together but don't unlock together. Thinking I may have an issue with D5 but not sure. Also replaced the door lock relay next to the module. After replacing D4 with The original relay in place, the doors did the same thing. Actuated the inertia switch a few times and bam, doors locked and unlocked together. Decided tonight to put in the new door lock relay and all of sudden back to the same issue. Doors lock together but won't unlock together. Any thoughts?


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sdg3205
04-18-2015, 01:48 AM
Did everything work perfectly before changing out the old solenoids?

Have you performed the lock and latch procedure technical service bulletin?

Bitsyncmaster
04-18-2015, 05:40 AM
Are you using the stock door lock module with the two relays that Toby provided for the actuators?

jmettee
04-18-2015, 09:12 AM
I bought both the lock actuators & the digital lock module last year. After doing all the instructed door lock linkage adjustments & installing the actuators, then checking that the electrical contacts for lock/unlock position were set (using a multimeter), I installed the lock module. Using the diagnostic test mode, the doors would lock, then only unlock 1 of the doors & flash a red fail code. With more troubleshooting & talking to Toby, it was determined that the lock module was faulty.

Point is: using the electrical diagram, make sure your door lock/unlock wiper contacts are making good contact. Once you are sure the doors are good, you can start to isolate the problem to being in the door or with the relay/control module. Having the door linkages properly adjusted & the contacts making good connection are key to the system working. If you haven't ensured everything is good in the doors, it's probably best & easiest to do that & rule them out as a problem.

jrandle
04-18-2015, 09:52 AM
Are you using the stock door lock module with the two relays that Toby provided for the actuators?

Correct. And I have yet to do the lock and latch procedure as I'm not done working in the doors. Noticed some grease on the wiper switch, cleaned it off and it began working again for a couple times. Going to remove the wipers today and clean with alcohol.


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sdg3205
04-18-2015, 11:07 AM
Correct. And I have yet to do the lock and latch procedure as I'm not done working in the doors. Noticed some grease on the wiper switch, cleaned it off and it began working again for a couple times. Going to remove the wipers today and clean with alcohol.


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Start with the lock and latch procedure. It's the most fundamental step towards good working locks. You can find the service bulletin on here. I'm not sure what you mean by "not done working on the doors." The system must be in place if you're trying to get the locks to work, right? If you had linkages out, you wouldn't be testing the locks.

It doesn't matter how shiny your wiper switch is if the linkage rods are out of alignment. A little sandpaper on the contact points is really all you need.

If you follow the bulletin to a tee, the next issue may be a bad relay in the DLM if you do in fact have the original (sounds like you do). I had a unit recently that was intermittent, then stopped working. I'd fiddle with it and it would be intermittent again, then stop working again. Bad unlock relay.

David T
04-18-2015, 11:43 AM
Start with the lock and latch procedure. It's the most fundamental step towards good working locks. You can find the service bulletin on here. I'm not sure what you mean by "not done working on the doors." The system must be in place if you're trying to get the locks to work, right? If you had linkages out, you wouldn't be testing the locks.

It doesn't matter how shiny your wiper switch is if the linkage rods are out of alignment. A little sandpaper on the contact points is really all you need.

If you follow the bulletin to a tee, the next issue may be a bad relay in the DLM if you do in fact have the original (sounds like you do). I had a unit recently that was intermittent, then stopped working. I'd fiddle with it and it would be intermittent again, then stop working again. Bad unlock relay.

You must follow the door adjustment procedure precisely. In fact, it is so important it is also in the Service Bulletins, ST-10-8/81. Even before you do that you should have the torsion bars adjusted, the door should be aligned and the anchor pins should be adjusted so they don't rub and glide smoothly right into the center of both latches and both anchor pins hit 1st and 2nd locking positions simultaneously. You should also have good rubber inner and outer door seals (not all torn up and "dead"). Lubricate the hinges and wipe the door seals with silicone. You know you are getting the settings right when you can't lock the doors unless BOTH latches on BOTH doors are in 2nd locking position.

jrandle
04-18-2015, 11:24 PM
Well, I removed the lock bell cranks today and cleaned up the contacts and got the grease off of the contacts on the driver side door. Now the doors lock and unlock correctly. All I meant by I was still working on the doors was that I still have them open because I was installing door poppers and replacing The doorlock solenoids with linear actuators.


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