I really hate these nuts.

[penciltester]

33966



I have heated and used Pb blaster on these lock nuts securing the crossover pipe to the exhaust manifold to no avail. They just end up breaking studs, DMCMW Dave called it.

What I am trying to tackle now is at least getting a socket onto the upper nut on the drivers side of the crossover pipe. That part of the pipe above where the pipe splits off into the cat. The part that hooks up directly to the exhaust manifold. This nut sets right next to a little hump in the pipe that a heat shield bolted to. That little hump prevents me from getting the socket on flush, it connects at an angle not setting well enough to really get the socket fully over the nut.

We might be able to get a stubby wrench on it but I don't think it will give us enough leverage to bust it loose. My dad is wanting to fire up the torch and just cut it off.

Have any of you guys had this issue? Also, Is the stage 1 exhaust upgrade worth it? 2 grand is a lot of money.


Thanks for any and all help guys!

[sdg3205]

All mine broke, as did the 02 sensor, no matter how much PB blaster and heat i threw at them.

There's a spec 1 for sale right now for $1,500. Do it.

[davidc89]

Not sure if this would work or not, but have you tried a wobble extension to get on that nut? Its like a regular extension except the end of the extension has bevels on it so the socket can rock on it.

[lazabby]

You might try getting a dremmel tool on it an cut it off. I've cut off a lot of rusted bolts that way. Not sure if you have the cleance in there to get to it though.

[David T]

You might try getting a dremmel tool on it an cut it off. I've cut off a lot of rusted bolts that way. Not sure if you have the cleance in there to get to it though.

From all of the years I have worked on old, rusty hardware (especially exhaust hardware) the only thing that works most of the time is HEAT. Not just a little from a Propane torch. You need an Oxy-Acetalyne torch and get it red-hot. Even with that, if the threads are all messed up you might still break things. Penetrating sprays, oils, none of that stuff really helps when it is all rusted. I hesitate cutting things up if I can because it is none-reversable. Especially if I know I will be reusing things. Using high heat does have it's dangers so you must take all of the necessary precautions. In some cases it is just too dangerous to use heat, especially near fiberglass or fuel.

[davidc89]

From all of the years I have worked on old, rusty hardware (especially exhaust hardware) the only thing that works most of the time is HEAT. Not just a little from a Propane torch. You need an Oxy-Acetalyne torch and get it red-hot. Even with that, if the threads are all messed up you might still break things. Penetrating sprays, oils, none of that stuff really helps when it is all rusted. I hesitate cutting things up if I can because it is none-reversable. Especially if I know I will be reusing things. Using high heat does have it's dangers so you must take all of the necessary precautions. In some cases it is just too dangerous to use heat, especially near fiberglass or fuel.

+1 on an acetalyne torch. If you are really good you can cut the nut without damaging the threads. I wouldn't suggest it though, unless you are VERY good at torching. It takes a lot of practice to get that good. Usually if you get the nut cherry red it will come off, but not always as mentioned earlier.

[David T]

+1 on an acetalyne torch. If you are really good you can cut the nut without damaging the threads. I wouldn't suggest it though, unless you are VERY good at torching. It takes a lot of practice to get that good. Usually if you get the nut cherry red it will come off, but not always as mentioned earlier.

Cutting the nut off is not easy to do without damaging the stud. My technique is to get the nut cherry red, let it cool down, reheat to almost cherry red and then remove. Sometimes it helps to stop, tighten a little and them loosen some more. Sometimes you have to reheat several times. The nuts are expendable, cutting them is no loss if you can do it without damaging the studs. If you get things too hot the stud will soften and you could twist it right off. You try to salvage the studs but if they are really bad or broken you have no choice but to try to replace them too. PJ Grady sells a Stainless Steel set but they are expensive. When reassembling remember to use Never-Seize. It works. Things will come apart without heat.

[penciltester]

Thanks for responding everybody.

We have tried everything suggested except for the dremel tool and cutting it of with a torch. My dad is going for the torch, he gained 23 years of experience with this sort of thing while working in an underground coal mine earlier in his life. So fingers crossed.

Thanks again