Oil Warning Sender - Subsitite with later Volvo V6 sender?

[FABombjoy]

I've replaced the oil light sender once and it's still leaking, as they seem to do.

Has anyone tried subbing the version from 90s-ish Volvo V6 engines? I have one in hand and it threads right in and looks like it might be less prone to leaks.

34093

[DMC-81]

Hi there,

The Volvo manual says not to interchange the sensors due to a different oil passage design. Here is the link:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/260/v62849cc_2.8l_sohc_b28a_(can)/sensors_and_switches/sensors_and_switches_engine/oil_pressure_sender/component_information/technical_service_bulletins/oil_pressure_sensor_revised/

Thanks,

[Chris 16409]

I've replaced the oil light sender once and it's still leaking, as they seem to do.

Has anyone tried subbing the version from 90s-ish Volvo V6 engines? I have one in hand and it threads right in and looks like it might be less prone to leaks.

34093

Did you use a new seal washer with OEM style sender?

[DMC5180]

The issue with the OEM switch is that there are 2 small o-rings that seal the center stem to the outer body. The o-rings deteriorate from heat and age harden. They become square instead of having a normal round cross section. Oil pressure then leaks past them.

I disassembled my switch a couple years ago and found some suitable replacement o-rings. I put it all back together and so far no more leaks. It was difficult to find the tiny O-rings. I installed standard buna-N type but would have preferred using Viton which is 400F rated and much more durable in the long run.


Dennis

[FABombjoy]

The Volvo manual says not to interchange the sensors due to a different oil passage design. Here is the link:
Fantastic, this is what I was wondering. Thanks for that link.

When I saw the size of the piston on the original sender, I wondered if something like this wouldn't be the case.

[FABombjoy]

Did you use a new seal washer with OEM style sender?
Indeed, but they leak through the sender body.


I disassembled my switch a couple years ago and found some suitable replacement o-rings. I put it all back together and so far no more leaks. It was difficult to find the tiny O-rings. I installed standard buna-N type but would have preferred using Viton which is 400F rated and much more durable in the long run.
I think that's what I'm going to have to do. Hopefully I can find a local supplier for tiny O rings. My oil pan is dotted with oil and so is my garage floor and it's all from this sender. I've spent years getting everything else to stop leaking and this is the final piece :D

[GR8SCOTT]

.

[hmcelraft]

Did you use a new seal washer with OEM style sender?

The substitute you are suggesting appears to have a taper that may be a problem when installed and could damage the DMC block. The OEM unit might no longer seal if reinstalled.

[Chris 16409]

Fantastic, this is what I was wondering. Thanks for that link.

When I saw the size of the piston on the original sender, I wondered if something like this wouldn't be the case.

If you have a hard time finding the o-rings:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1288201,parttype,4588

I bought the "Standard Motor Products" one. It's $7, a real bargain. Works fine.

[FABombjoy]

There must be two different versions of this switch. I opened mine up and there were no o-rings to speak of. There were two nylon insulators on the main body where the conducting threaded bolt passes through, the piston w/ threaded bolt, the piston spring, nuts, lockwashers, and spade terminal. I cleaned everything very well and applied high-temp RTV to the surfaces where the nylon mates with the brass body, and to the inside of the nylon insulators to seal the bolt threads.

Actually it's a really sketchy arrangement. The piston holds a bolt captive, but not captive enough to really tighten the holding nut that would keep everything tight and leak free. So I used some vice grips to hold the bolt steady as I tightened down the main nut, followed by the nut that retains the spade terminal. Hopefully this will be the end of the leak.

[DMC5180]

So there was nothing between to the two plastic insulators? Here is mine with the new O-rings in place prior to me reassembling it. I did not get a photo of the old hardened ones unfortunately. They were almost like carbon and broke into pieces. Mine also had silicone previously applied to help seal it. It still did not prevent it from leaking obviously or I would not have needed to replace the o-rings.

. http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34105&stc=1

[FABombjoy]

Now I wish I would have taken pictures. Mine was very different inside.

[DMC5180]

Here is all of it disassembled and laid out in an exploded view order

.http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34106&stc=1

[FABombjoy]

Mine seems to be a simplified (cheap) version, which is why it has a hex bolt instead of a round-head threaded pin like yours. I can't recall where I purchased it from, but I bought it maybe around 2006 or so.

It's probably from the same factory as these: http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Oil-Pressure-Sensor-For-RENAULT-PEUGEOT_333257861.html